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Messages - Ryan_M

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1
Component Deals & Selection / New wheels for the GF for Christmas
« on: November 17, 2025, 01:38:15 AM »
The GF has a 2017? Giant Anthem. She bought it used 3 years ago, yeah it's dated but she loves it. Due to trickle down it now has M6000 brakes and M7000 drivetrian. Anyway last off season I tore it down completely.... 200hr service on shocks, new bearings for suspension, new dropper, a few other odds and ends. While it was apart I checked the wheels to tweak them true and noticed the previous owner abused the rims. The bead is bent in numerous places, they are holding for now but they make me a bit nervous.

I'm thinking on building her some wheels for Xmas. We're not hard core so I don't need anything highest end. I'd appreciate some recommendations for hubs and rims and not sure what's actually good. I was looking at the Goldix 180 hubs, but are they decent? anything else I should consider? For rims, I used Lightcarbon UAD 935 for my MTB and she likes the undulating pattern but it doesn't seem to exist in 27.5". I'm at a loss for rims really, I'd like to get 30mm ID. I see a lot of Bitranz on Ali... they seem OK, but it's only from pics so unknown if they're not bad. Any help or suggestions would be helpfull!

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Why are you asking that? If somebody wants to go flatbar, then let him/ her just use it.
It's a fair enough question. So far it just seems he's looking for more information on my decision.

can i ask what the point is? a drop bar gives you 4 different hand positions, a flat bar 1. A drop bar will be faster for the same watts because of your body position.
Is it to be upright going around town? Or is it some vibe i'm missing?


The point is comfort. I'll say "we" because the GF's bike is very similar to mine. We have horns on our bars so there's a few hand positions available. The bikes are mostly used on rail trails and country roads. Rides are casual and sometimes short (30-40km) puttering from winery to winery. Sometimes the'yre a bit longer, we have a 115km tour next week. In either case speed is never a priority so the drops would never be used. On the mechanical side I like the ergonomics of flat bar mounted components. They're cheaper (especially since I already have the parts), and I find they work better. At this point I don't see any advantage to the drop bars that are currently popular, used on gravel bikes.

3
have you noticed that spcycle has a typo in their BB call-outs (86.5mm) in the images? that's confusing!
Sorry, I think I'm missing something... Looks to like the T47-86.5mm spec is pretty consistent in all their documentation?

4
Cyclocross Frames, Wheels & Components / Frames suitable for flat bar?
« on: September 30, 2024, 02:10:15 PM »
I have a 2020 Giant Roam (L)... well the frame anyway. Everything else on the bike has been changed out over the years. I also swapped the sus fork for a Toseek carbon one which IIRC is ~10mm shorter than the shock it replaced. I want to get a frameset to clean it up and get away from the frankenstein look, convert to through axle, add fender mounts up front, and winter is coming so I need a bike project. All in all I think I'm fairly happy with the fit of the current frame though have been thinking on trying a slightly shorter stem. Anyway... I've been looking through the usual suspects and seems pretty much everything is designed for drop bars. I found the SPcycle G068 which seems like a pretty close fit. Are there any other's I should be considereing?

Thanks

5
29er / Re: HongFu FM138
« on: April 24, 2024, 09:16:04 PM »
Finished my build. I am absolutely loving this machine. I'm still tweaking a bit, but still very happy. Tweaking so far includes going with a different bar, the rear sus was a little too compliant for my taste so added the larger token and I think it's good. I want to make the front a little more compliant so will see what's in there for tokens, planning to remove one. I was expecting this build to be good, but I wasn't expecting to love it so much.

6
So far so good using this mineral oil brake fluid.

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805718248821.html
That's pricy stuff! Nearly double the cost of Shimano.... could just be because I'm in Canada though

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29er / Re: HongFu FM138
« on: February 09, 2024, 10:56:07 PM »
strange bushing 25 and 16mm but after a smal search good to find


Can you share links for the bushings? I'm not having any luck finding them.

8
Is it just me? I've been trying to buy a rear shock for a new build and I'm currently on my 7th person I'm dealing with. In all cases I'm not even haggling and fully willing to give them their asking price, pay for shipping, etc.. just give me your email addy so I can send you money..... and it's crickets.

Why list something if you don't really want to sell it? I keep thinking a out that "Life or Brian" skit where the peddler makes them haggle lol.

9
That wouldn't be UPS's handy work, would it?

10
Ok maybe I'll try a different bar then, 400x90? It's certainly not cost prohibitive, and <10% the cost of a new frame. I'm pretty stuck on not being able to add any spacers. When I built the bike I used all supplied spacers and cut the steerer tube to that, since I could shorten it if I wanted to remove the spacers. I could maybe add a 5mm spacer (I guess I'd have to model and print one) with still having enough steerer for the stem to safely clamp onto. New bars might already have enough spacers. I saw Hambini made an extended plug(?) to add a little height. I could reverse engineer that and make one if absolutely necessary.

11
Thanks for the replies! Maybe the A22 fits me the way a bike should fit most people but not me?
lower back discomfort isn't something that never happens for me. If I'm active it doesn't bother me but if I'm standing around doing nothing it will.

I am seeing a 10mm increase to stack and a 15mm reduction in reach with the Elves frame.
I've attached a geometry comparison. So the effective top tube is a bit over 19mm with the Elves. The stack #'s says the Elves is 10mm taller but its headtube is 20mm longer and its bottom bracket is 3mm lower compared to the A22, so only a 10mm difference doesn't seem to add up. Maybe its not ~20mm but 10mm has gotta be wrong.

I've had the bike for 2 seasons now but it might only get riden once a week or so. The lower back discomfort slowly builds as the ride goes on. I find I ride with my finger tips on the top of the bars often to get some relief. Afer 60km or so I'm ready to get off the bike. The bar is an integrated and is 44cm wide with a 110mm stem. The top of the saddle is 10cm taller than the tops of the bars.

I'm not sure how relevant it is, but I also attached a pic of my hybrid. This bike gets the most saddle time and I've done many 100km+ rides on it with no discomfort at all. The drop from the saddle to the bars is ~2cm. FWIW the horizontal distance from the center of the seatpost the the center of the bars is 69cm on both bikes.

Thanks again!!

12
29er / Re: HongFu FM138
« on: January 18, 2024, 07:15:40 PM »
That's what I was told, but yes, 1800-1900 for the super light version seems to be a more realistic weight.

Just got my frame today. The large superlight is 1980g.

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Component Deals & Selection / Which rotors for MTB?
« on: January 17, 2024, 03:00:47 PM »
I need 180mm and 160mm 6-bolt rotors. I was going to go with Shimano RT86 rotors but seems the supply of "made in Japan" rotors has dried up for the 180mm and reports of the "made in China" ones are mediocre and take a very long time to bed in. So I'm looking for suggestions. Thoughts?

14
I'm 182cm. I currently have an ICAN A22 (54cm) that I find too aggresive. I had a fit done and was told everything looks good, but I could maybe use a 5mm stem spacer. I'm never really that comfortable on it and my lower back bothers me. I find I'm always on the very back of the handle bars, it feels too long and low. I was thinking about find a more enduro like frame and have been looking at the Elves Eglath (53cm). This will approximately raise the handle bars about 20mm and the ETT is also ~20mm shorter. Would this be considered a significant change in geometry, or would it be barely noticable? Thanks for any input.

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Maintenance, Mechanics, & Tools / Re: Grease / Thread lock / Anti-seize
« on: January 05, 2024, 03:18:01 PM »
Anti-seize is better than grease for bolts ?
Technically probably? but unnecessary unless you have a particular issue. It can be a pain to clean up and seems to get everywhere. I use white lithium because it doesn't make a mess and easy to wipe up (and I happened to have it in the drawer).

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