1054g
thru axle 35g, 1019g.
derailleur hanger 20g (?), 1000g.
White paint... 75g (?), 925g
4 cage bolts, 10g (?), 915g
Size 54 advertised as 865g, that's a 50g difference, or 6% deviation. I guess anything in the 5% range is to be expected. Better safe than sorry.

6500RMB = 815 EUR + 60$ shipping, this is pricey indeed.
The Factor box makes you wonder... would that be in instance of special access to the factory floor?

I just wish the logo said Tractor and not Factor, but this is a pretty bike indeed. Having a frame from a Factor factory but with Tractor logo would be peak troll.

I thought that everyone selling bike parts has to adhere to the ISO4210 testing protocol anyway as it is obligatory in most countries. Maybe someone with more background knowledge in the world of engineering and standards can explain better.

But what that means is that fatigue testing of sample frames doesn’t really set Chinese frames apart from the big brands. It is the level of QC (or its existence in the first place) that makes the difference. Right? What good is fatigue testing of one sample frame if they then crank out thousands of these frames without ever looking at any of them before they get shipped?

This is not intended to be mean or judgemental, so I hope we can take this response in the sprit of open discussion.

RE #1: Anecdata like this isn't helpful, and to me, the bigger question is whether or not the factory is even testing these frames for safety and failure. If you work with a reputable Chinese factory, they generate a surprising amount of data via testing in rigs to understand fatigue and lower the odds of a frame-breaking. Is the result a guarantee that a product won't break? No. But it does mean that the failure modes are known, and the probability of a frame-breaking meets the ISO standards. Not collecting the data means that it wasn't considered. This is similar to the arguments for and against helmets. Using a helmet provides a data-backed way to mitigate the consequences of an event. Still, there is no direct way to measure the risk faced on an individual ride if you choose not to wear a helmet and you can convince yourself that other factors might make it safer to not wear one.

RE #2: Nearly any race bike frame equipped with similar modern components will be 90% as good as a WT level super bike. Use electronic shifting, use similar wheels and tires, match the contact points and I think its near impossible to find a 10% difference in overall peformance.

I've had the pleasure of riding an Emonda ALR and a Gen 8 Madone now. Even as a smaller rider where the frame matters more as a percentage of aero or weight or whatever, there was no way to look at my ride data and tell the difference between the alloy not aero bike and the WT race bike. You take that from 20-22mph to like 28mph, and yes, there is now a measurable difference, but it's not even 5% and still within the error of my ability to test things on a loop.

How much time and money are you spending trying to make your replica work? How much cheaper does it really end up than something like the Emonda ALR?

Does the extra clout gained from a fake replica do anything for you? I don't think anyone on any group ride will care about this, and if they do, honestly, they are jerks.

If you are saying that a replica bike does no harm because you wouldn't be buying the real thing anyway, what do you do when you move on from the frame? Just throw it away? I suspect that the fakes I have seen being passed off as the real thing often started their life with the first reseller saying, "hey this isnt a real Pinarello" (or other brand), and the second reseller either forgot or isn't enough of a bike person to realize that other people can tell the difference on inspection.

Edit: I want to clarify that I think troll bikes are hilarious—like the LTK bike badged as a "Tractor," for example—but these aren't replicas or counterfeit bikes.

Looks also pretty cool to me! It's awesome that you went for this matte stealthy black. Bought as well some original parts like the head spacer ring, and seatpost wedge. I'm also still doubting if I add under the headset top cover a rubber ring to prevent getting moisture in the headset bearings.

For my build:
I still need a chain, cassette, and wheels. Received this week the chainring 1x, which is a Rotor Qarbon Q-ring with 52t but I received the 50t so I need to wait for that too.

Probably the best take on the carbon layers that they used, for that price range for sure. We will see in the end how that goes. Do you have a picture of your bike tssy5?

I know it will bring controversy and that many people, especially on this form, don't like it.

What an analogy, but I get where you are coming from. For your information I'm not selling this bike as a real one, nor do I try to sleep with someone else to take that identity. See it as a cheap kit car on a Pontiac Fiero base. If you copy a Lamborghini with a kit on the base of a Pontiac Fiero, it won't drive like a Lambo, it won't sound like a Lambo, it just looks like it.

I believe that this fake Factor also won't drive like a real Factor, I'll get Elite Drive wheels, probably the Black Inc wheels are much better, the stiffness in the frame and handlebars will be much less than the original. The original has every where Ceramicspeed bearings, I don't. At a kit car it's quite obvious for the trained eye, I think it will also be obvious for the factor that it's a replica (for the trained eye).
And at this point I can't get rid of the stickers anymore, sorry.

I've purchased it on Aliexpress (store: taiwan factory bike parts Store - model New Model Fasterway Ostro) and I could choose between any factor color scheme (painted or the stickers are under the paint), I doubted the one without any paint or just the clear paint that you could see the carbon layers. I know a lot of people here don't like replicas or placing a brand name on a copied frame, but in the end, I still did it, because I liked it (sorry).

I doubted also the long ten that Serge-K has, but I believe the rear is still a bit different, I think the rear tubes are a bit smaller in diameter than the long ten, but that opinion is just based on pictures that I saw so I don't know for sure + there is not a big price difference between those frames. I considered basically a lot of frames, like everyone does. I checked all bike sizes and geometries and my personal preference in looks and this was, what came out.

Difficult to say, it's my first build and I watched a lot of comments and threads here and YouTube clips from various builders/YouTubers. For my liking is the paint job very well done, I was expecting worse, to be honest. The placement of the calipers is fine for what I have and fits perfectly so that should be fine too. And I don't have a small camera to look into the bike so I have no idea what it in looks like inside other than the BB part.

For me the BB threads look good too, if I compare them to some clips that I saw from Hambini's YouTube channel, so overall I'm quite pleased. The handlebar is a copy of black inc. and I need to sand it a bit, the inside of the stem where the wires enter that it's not too sharp but I have the feeling everyone is doing this.

In the end, I think it was carbon T1000 UD instead of T1100 but okay good enough for me, I'm just an amateur, no pro by any means, so I also think I won't break the d-shaped tube from the front fork. I won't generate that much force I'm afraid, so I do not foresee any problems but I will let you know, once it's finished and I actually drove a decent amount of km or miles.