Quote from: Gloopann on September 24, 2026, 08:24:07 AM
Unless I am seeing something wrong, both of those brands seem rather expensive. I'd rather get a decathlon helmet at that price point.

The P2R 20 is the chepeast helmet by far on this list and non of the Decathlon/Van Rysel helmet was crash tested by one of the independent companies.

Quote from: hubba on September 22, 2026, 11:20:08 AM
With cheap frames I'm not expecting fast and perfect buying experience. I'm sure I'll get my frame eventually. But I must say I'm also not pleased how many Chinese sellers aren't honest about the delivery times. I'm sure they know from the beginning if they can't keep their word.

That is the main problem I see here and why I agree with Vesryn. They should comunicate clearly how long it will take and not promise a time they can't keep even before shipping it.

Quote from: Serge_K on September 16, 2026, 07:58:20 AM
Authentic Princeton are cringe AF. Fake Princeton takes the cringe to such a level that my jaw and teeth hurt just thinking of it.
Mechanically / performance wise, there's absolutely no reason to buy them, they're just wheels.
Also, it's illegal to buy fakes like that.
And no, they're not authentic.
If you're a clerk in some office in Florida, and your dream is to be a dentist in Florida, then those wheels are for you. If not, please get something else.

If you want true China/Ali Cringe there is always Tukus.
And the illegal part about these rims is the name on it, importing them can lead to a lot of problems. I've seen the same design with other names on it as well.

Quote from: patliean1 on September 14, 2026, 04:44:28 PM
I can't for the life of me understand why individuals get so wrapped in other folks' bike fit and frame selections. Especially if the rider hasn't expressed any discomfort or pain in their current setup.

There are just far too many variables from rider to rider to make such a blanket statement.

Agreed and they ignore the STA. The Ridley Noah Fast has 399mm reach in XS but an STA of 76 degree. A steeper STA leads to the reach number getting higher without the effective reach getting longer.
And if you've long torso/short legs these 'aggressive' geometries aren't aggressive.
Anyways will the eSTA seems to be quite high on this frame at least in S, the question is just how long you can extend the Seatpost

Quote from: raisinberry777 on September 05, 2026, 02:37:40 AM
Because it depends on how the computer implements the ANT+ spec for powermeters. The ANT+ spec minimum allows for, instances where 0W is sent from the meter, the prior value to be held and recorded for up to 3 seconds. All serious manufacturers (Garmin, Wahoo, etc.) go beyond that to ensure that when the power meter is reporting 0W is actually records 0W.

From my previous experience, I wholly agree with Serge_K. The hardware is great. The software is not up to standard and feels poorly tested.

Thanks for the explanation, i didn't know this.
I found that maybe Smart Recroding can lead to only writing values every 3 to 5 seconds https://forum.intervals.icu/t/low-amount-of-data-points-using-a-igpsport-bsc-300-bike-computer/116972, don't know of this will fix the problem. If disabling this dosen'r fix the problem it is indeed a bad design.

How are ghost watts the problem of the computer and not the Powermeter?
And I didn't have a problem with the navigation on my BCS300T.
Like the SR Mini it is a bit chirpy, but I like that.

Quote from: bsharp77 on August 21, 2026, 07:27:44 AM
Don't know where you're seeing them that cheap, they are £39 each here, plus I don't want any sort of tubleless ready tyre that makes it any harder to mount.
Plus... this is Chinertown after all, where we try to find good alternatives to overpriced bike gear!!

I think these are worth a punt, will report back after 1000km or so with the good or bad news.

Here https://www.bike-components.de/de/Michelin/PRO5-TS-TLR-28-Faltreifen-p212519/?o=1001006878-schwarz-transparent-28-mm-28-622.
Granted it is the 28-622 and not the 30-622, but the price difference is pretty minor.
And I wouldn't bother with Tubetype tires, but everyone is different.

Quote from: bsharp77 on August 21, 2026, 03:37:55 AM
Im currently running GP5000, they're good, but the bike is now becoming a dedicated training bike for the everyday slog - ill keep GP5000 on the "best" bike.

These H496 Merlins are literally half the price of standard GP5000 (£48 for a pair delivered), spec looks good and they have a "Dino Skin anti stab protection layer" - what this performs like in real life is anyones guess, but given that Chaoyang is a huge and proven tyre manufacturer, I thought these might be worth a punt. Was hoping someone else might have tried.

A set of Michelin Pro 5 TLR cost 60€ for a pair and is very close to the GP5000 according to bicyclerollingresistance. Why boter with H496 if a good alternative dosen't cost way more?

Quote from: Sander2177 on August 10, 2026, 03:41:55 AM



I went out on the wheelset on Saturday and covered just under 120 km in a group ride.

The 32 mm tyres measure 33.4 mm on the rims, and I was running 51 psi front and 55 psi rear.

Nothing out of the ordinary to report. To be honest, I didn't really pay much attention to the mini-hook design while riding, as everything performed exactly as expected

Regarding my comments about chasing lower wheel weights, my point is that most wheel brands tend to offer a one-size-fits-all approach, and generally that works well. However, not every wheelset is suitable for every rider or riding style.

There is absolutely nothing wrong with ultra-light wheelsets, but riders need to be realistic about their weight, riding style, road conditions and intended use. A 55 kg rider climbing smooth mountain roads has very different requirements from a 95 kg rider doing fast group rides on rough roads.

I think the first thing you need to decide is which tyre size you want to run.
I don't think 50mm is deep and is generally considered the best all round depth for a road wheel.
I would say the pulse is more suited to 28-30mm tyre looking at the rim width.
The Aura no doubt will take a 30m tyre however after mounting 32mm I say this or wider as  I am also considering getting a set of 34mm for this wheelset

Personally, I prefer manufacturers that offer different build options and weight limits rather than simply advertising the lightest possible number.

Nothing wrong which chasing light wight, but especiallywith the the lower end of the market I have 'Strong. Light. Cheap. Pick Two' in mind and since I don't chase the lightest possible numbers I rather take a wheelset that is a bit heavier.
I was talking about the Cure 24 or the Wave 2.0, not the Aura.
I know that 50 isn't considered deep, would be just my first deeper wheelset so I'm a bit hessitant, but I've pushed back the purchase of new wheels for the time being anyways.

Quote from: Matter on August 10, 2026, 10:45:41 PM
You can contact customer service via WhatsApp or AliExpress; they can provide a video so you can verify the sound.
As for choosing between 28C and 30C, it depends on your needs: opt for 28C if you want a more race-oriented feel, or 30C if you want to balance performance with comfort. Personally, I use a setup combining PULSE rims (23mm internal width) with 30C PRO 5 tires, which offers a good balance of comfort and cost-effectiveness.

Thanks, i want a louder free hub anyways. I think I would prefer 30, but since I've decided to pushed back the purchase due to more important bike upgrades this isn't that important.

Which chainrings are compatible with the Powermeter and a 2x10 Tiagra?
I want to switch to 165mm cranks anyways and the Powermeter is just a bit more expensive than those.

Panda Podium also has a review out https://www.pandapodium.cc/post/nexga-s1-the-most-accurate-chinese-power-meter/
It claims it performed as well as the Assioma Pedals.

Quote from: BeR on August 08, 2026, 11:24:15 AM
I've been running a set of ARC hubs on my Tagoola wheels (some of my friends use those hubs too) and they offer incredible performance and value for the money. ARC hubs are hard to beat on price-to-performance. I find them very reliable.

Like for every hub,  keep an eye on bearing maintenance if you frequently ride in harsh conditions.

Thanks. Is the Freehub more on the silent or loud site?
And a bit of maintenance should be common.

Although I'm still a bit confused which rim width to chose. I want to ride tires between 28 and 32cc. Maybe 50mm is also a bit deep.
The brand isn't that important, but I like the approach of not chasing light weight mentioned by
@Sander2177

Edit: And the Mini Hook with these and the Cure 24 make a bit hessitant as well.

I assume if a wheel uses cnSpokes or Sapim, Pillar makes no difference.
That just leaves the questions is the Arc082 a good hub?
Because the Tagoola Wave2 looks good.