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Messages - bangacan

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29er / Re: Downcountry recommendation
« on: November 05, 2024, 07:50:01 PM »
It is almost exactly a year since I built this. Not very well known here. I like it a lot: https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,4524.0.html

I found spcycle difficult to deal with. If you want a no risk option, look at Carbonda - they are excellent.
I like two of the carbonda frame but the shipping is a bit steep. Plus a 4% PayPal fee. Waiting to here from Mira about the frame cost and shipping. Thanks for the tip!

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29er / Downcountry recommendation
« on: November 04, 2024, 05:41:51 PM »
There are so many frames with tons of redundancy. Hard to find what I want. I’m looking for a frame that is 120 mm rear travel. The Sp-cycle M861 is intriguing but I’m scared about how light it is. It ticks the boxes though on head tube angle(65-67deg), travel and stack/reach. I’m also looking at Tanya’s sports fm-198. I have two of their frames and they have been great. Any other frames I should look at?

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29er / Re: japjoe7 Carbonda FM1001 build thread
« on: October 19, 2024, 05:22:33 PM »
I didn't read every post but why are you abandoning it? I'm thinking of getting this same frame.

4
Should work as long as you're using a crankset standard with identical bearing sizes left and right- it's basically like taking the bottom bracket assembly as a whole and rotating it 180 degrees. But I would sooner raise a warranty claim - if QC didn't catch such an egregious error, what else might they have missed?
Yeah, I might contact them. They will ask me to have that verified by a shop which is fine. I might just put an id mark on the shell and see if it starts to move.

The shifting is also not great. I probably should have stuck with sram or Shimano but I bought a Sensah 1x11 shifter/rear der with hydraulic brakes. The brakes are AWESOME but are the shifting woes the Sensah group or a chain line issue? Hard to decipher. I’m trying to become a better mechanic, I’m a building contractor damn it I should be good at this, but I’m getting some shifting advice soon from a mechanic friend

5
https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0840/7783/8623/files/Bottom_Bracket_Installation_-_BSA.pdf?v=1705436718

What you say makes sense as far as how I had to do it but my caliper read 68mm.

I'm wondering if there is any reason why I can't take the left bb cups and put them on the right side? Same for right side cup. If the threaded inserts are indeed on the wrong side then the threading should work. no?

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Cyclocross Frames, Wheels & Components / BSA bottom bracket backwards?
« on: April 30, 2024, 06:01:11 AM »
I got a new gravel frame from TanTan cycling. Beautiful frame but having issues with the bottom bracket. I fear they glued the threaded inserts in backwards. Instead of tightening towards the rear of the frame they tighten towards the front. I saw this same issue somewhere on a different forum and the person was told to use green loctate on the bb threads. I don't understand the physics involved with why the bb could/would looses but I am very disappointed as I got a BSA frame because I was nervous about a pressed in BB in a Chinese frame.

Another oddity is that my TRP BB says to use two spacers drive side and one non-drive in a 68mm shell. My digital caliper measures 68mm. When I used the 3 spacers the crank bottomed out against the bb and wouldn't turn. I had to use 1 spacer drive side and none non-drive, as if it was a 73mm shell. Easton ea70 cinch crank.

thoughts?

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