Quote from: Raku on December 11, 2025, 10:15:41 AM
I'm asking about the cables because I bought the di2 set without cables and I have to buy them separately and I don't know what length they should be.

1200 mm for the RD and 800mm for the FD, that comes as standard in complete groupsets or upgrade kits. That is plenty of cable. We are talking 12 speed, battery to derailleur cables only.

Quote from: Raku on November 22, 2025, 03:44:11 PM
How tall are you that you chose the "S" frame?

To help you with sizing, I am 175 cm maybe 176 on a good day, 81/82 cm inseam I chose S frame w/100mm stem. M would have been too long and with too much standover height. Considering the 15mm setback on the seatpost, S is spot on for what I need. Stack is a little on the low side, but I run 25mm of spacers to adjust for this. I think that there is a big gap between S and M sizes and people of my size find it difficult to decide on frame size. I also was not sure of the size but got the help here in this thread. I think it's better to size down than to go with the larger frame. Hope this helps.

Quote from: JonnyFlyburg on November 05, 2025, 04:10:52 AM
Hi all,

We all chase the aero gains, and integrated cockpits look great, but rider position is still the biggest factor. I'm looking for aero handlebars that can accept clip‑on extensions and have found two options so far:

- Elves Orome AeroEXT – arm‑rest clip‑on 
- Scott Syncros Creston IC SL – TT/tri clip‑on 

My questions

1. Is adding clip‑on extensions to an integrated cockpit a sensible approach, or is the danger of damaging it too high?
2. Is there any "universal" solution, or do you need a model‑specific clip‑on for each integrated bar shape?
3. What concrete alternatives have you used? e.g., specific brands, or a non‑integrated cockpit.

Thanks for the input!

Search AliExpress for "aero bar extensions" and look for the ones that have oval clamps. I cannot post the link that will direct you to the specific bars as it says the page cannot be found. Look for the clamp to be 4 piece that allows adjustment in 2 dimensions to grip the aero integrated bars.

Try this link:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005009144321494.html

Quote from: Alexlp on November 05, 2025, 08:35:54 AM
On a Shimano Ultegra derailleur, chain length only changes the cage angle, but it doesn't affect the position of the derailleur itself. The vertical position of the derailleur is adjusted with the Tension screw. Turning it lowers the derailleur, increasing the gap between the cassette sprockets and the cage pulley. SRAM should probably have a similar adjustment. A radical solution might be to use an extension cable, which is even used in the pro peloton, IMHO.

Correct on the chain length and B tension screw. However, the circled part of the picture is a direct mount hanger which only works on Shimano SHADOW style RD and will absolutely not work with SRAM. The purpose of the direct mount hanger is to eliminate the B-link therefore making the whole system stiffer. The issue that Patrick is having is due to the design of the SRAM RD. It sits much more curled upwards compared to Ultegra RD. I do not think that he would have that issue with Shimano.

Quote from: Serge_K on October 20, 2025, 02:40:46 PM


What do we know about Hygge? If it can be bought w/o a logo, if it's EPS moulded, if the price is competitive, could be a great aero frame. "only" 32C, but it is what it is...

Hygge was always fast in replying to my messages even after purchasing the frame, so there is a plus on communication. Not that I asked a lot, but when I wanted the upgraded compression ring, they replied immediately and sent one for 1$, so I am happy with that service. For the Model S, buying without logo/paint was always an option, probably will be the same for the Aura, although I like the look of the BOB "paintjob" or lack thereof . As they updated the Model S to EPS mould, Aura will 99,9% be EPS from the very start. The profile of the downtube is more in line with the current model S and is Kammtail profile. Since they bumped up the price of the Model S, not by much but still an increase, I assume this frame will be similarly priced 650 Eur (cut down with cupons/sales) plus tax and shipping to EU. I am very happy with how my Model S fits, and the Aura adds 1cm of stack to size S (which I like) but cuts the reach by 3mm which in not that big of a deal and there is always the option of longer stem. I also like that they considered the requests for 0 offset seatpost for the Model S and are now offering the Aura with the option of 0 or 15mm offset. This option alone will allow me to go to size M if I start to "disagree" with the low (for me) position. I very much like the ride dynamics and quality of the Model S and would be happy to buy the Aura no questions asked, if the price is right. The assembly of my frame was spot on, everything faced properly (except the headset for which I had to make a custom 0.4mm shim for the compression ring to avoid rubbing), no rotor rubbing, no creaks, no seatpost sliping, total silence from the frame after 15k km on dodgy roads. Will be following this thread.

Quote from: edotassi on August 18, 2025, 05:17:13 AM
Hi, I received the frame today. During inspection, I noticed this single flaw. Do you think it could be a serious structural issue, or is it just cracked paint around the thru-axle attachment?

Thanks!

I have similar defect too on my fork. I don't know when it did appear, but is there for more than 6000km and no issues. I discovered that when I did brake pad cleaning. Initially I thought that the insert had come loose and pulled carbon and paint together with it. It was not the case. The insert is still rock-solid inside and does not move. To test if it is carbon fracture you can try to thread the TA from the opposite side and do a gentle up and down movement to see if the crack "breathes" or if it moves together with the insert and TA. Mine did not move so it was just the clear coat chipping away probably due to multiple tightening of the TA.

Quote from: ujmo_ on July 17, 2025, 03:47:03 AM
I set the circumference to 2136mm (700 x 28C) but it didn't help. What do you mean by change mode to cadence? Cadence sensor works fine and shows proper data on computer. Maybe I'll try the original battery from CAD sensor and move it to SPD sensor. After that I'm out of ideas.

Some IGP sensors are dual mode speed/cadence all in one and changing the battery also changes the mode, but SPD70 is speed only so this should not affect this type of sensor. Try re-pairing all sensors to the computer. This works for me when changing batteries and the sensors do not show any readings.

Quote from: gbrnole on June 12, 2025, 06:45:38 PM
ah i see your problem now. almost seems like unless you take 0.5mm off the inside of the big ring and the outside of the small ring that they will always be 1mm out of spec for width between the rings?

I do not think so. Removing from the outside of the small ring will bring them closer together and cause chain drop almost every time. My plan is to remove 0.5 or 0.7mm from the inside of the big ring just to correct the wobble. Maybe shim the small ring to compensate for the material taken out of the big ring to maintain distance. For now, I will do several rides as is until I make a decision to thinker with this. I did not need this headache that I brought upon myself and should have gotten the original SRAM rings....double the money - zero issues... learn from my mistake Will update if I make the changes.

Quote from: gbrnole on June 11, 2025, 03:26:43 PM
i'm guessing this is a sram 130BCD crank? i wasn't even aware the pass quest made a 2x chainring for a sram 110BCD. is your SRAM red crank the 1-piece drive side or detachable spider?

sometimes chainrings need a little persuasion to have a nice flush fit on sram cranks. you do also have the rotation on the chainring in the correct place, right? there's a specific mark that the hidden bolt needs to be aligned with.

It is SRAM Red eTap 11s BCD110 GXP crank with one piece driveside unit. The thing is that it is designed around 4mm thickness chainring, but PassQuest are 5mm ant that is why it wobbles towards the inside where the chainring meets the crank arm. I managed to get them to work with tweaking the position (angular rotation) of the FD. It shifts OK but I'm not super impressed as there is hesitation when going from small to big. The wobble doesn't seem to bother the chainrings with rotation, but i will have to machine the spots where the bolts are and get them down to 4mm, maybe 4,5 to get rid of the wobble. My opinion is that the thickness will not affect other cranksets, especially not those with power meter, it just affects SRAM hidden bolt design. If someone from PassQuest is reading this forum PLEASE add more shifting ramps to the chainring, 4 are not enough for super smooth shifting. Would i recommend? Maybe if using other cranksets like Shimano od carbon cranks from other manufacturers. If someone is using SRAM, go with original chainrings and save yourself the trouble.

I don't know if this is the right place, but since this thread recommends PassQuest chainrings i thought I'll ask here. I just got a delivery of the PassQuest chainrings and fitted them on Sram Red 22 crankset and they are not sitting straight and are bulging on the hidden bolt place. I am using a Ultegra Di2 12speed as the rest of the groupset and cant get the chain to shift from small to big. Just before someone thinks it's the Red crankset, no its not as they work perfectly fine with cheap Snail chainrings that sit perfectly straight. The derailleur is set up according to instructions with the proper gaps as recommended. When trying to shift the chain just skips on the side of the chainring and does not get picked up by the shift pins. I had the same issue with Fovno chainrings. Any ideas on how to remedy this or have i just dumped 70 eur in the bin? Thanks

Quote from: Rechabeam on May 03, 2025, 02:20:01 PM
I'll gave that one a go I think.
any guarantees this is actually titanium?
And next to that, any idea which material would be best at handling the vibrations of cobble roads? Plastic, aluminum, ... ?

My stock computer mount made my GPS unit disintegrate on rough roads, so i replaced it with aluminium holder from Riderace brand. I prefer this in any way to the stock holder and it is maybe 10g heavier than the stock holder but is rock solid and does not vibrate od cracked roads. A huge plus is that the light holder is placed further back, closer to the attachment points to the handlebars and by doing that a lot of the weight is moved back and does not preload the holder. Much more stable and safer location for the light.

Quote from: Lotnik on February 18, 2025, 05:35:19 AM
Does anyone change bolts in his/hers Hygge for titanium ones and have specification what to order?

I have done that recently as the bolt on the seat post wedge and the bolts holding the FD mount were badly rusted after several wet rides on salty roads. I ordered from Wanyfa on AliX in gold colour to spice up an BOB frame.
The dimensions are:
Seat clamp M6x35 for the rear bolt M6x40 for the front (stock both are 35mm length and the front bolt was only holding on 2-3 threads which i did not like at all)
Seat post wedge M6x18
FD hanger M4x12 countersunk bolts 3 pieces, and this is the same bolt size that holds the RD hanger.
The bottle cage mouthing bolts did not suffer rust at all, i presume because they are stainless steel?? but will change them also. They are M5x15
The headset compression bolt is M5x30mm
I did not measure the stem bolts (because they did not rust) but should be M5x16 and also i will need nuts that go on the opposite side of the stem. there are complete sets of stem bolt and nut on ali.
Hope this helps.

These values are pretty much standard across the industry and do not vary much between manufacturers. For the seatpost wedge is 5Nm max, compression plug is 7-8 Nm, headset compression usually tighten it until no play is present and it should not be more than 2-3 Nm, stem bolts 5 Nm. Saddle clamp depending on style 5-10 Nm.

This actually has the perfect geometry for the general population looking for aero frames. For me (with herniated lumbar disk) it will allow to be assembled with no spacers under the stem other than the necessary for size M, I would not have to go a size down to compensate for reach and give me 9 cm saddle to bar drop. Regarding the "slack" headtube, it will by no means steer like a truck. My Hygge (size S, downsized to compensate for reach) has 71 headtube and it is very precise, rails corners and is very stable at speed and the occasional wind gusts yet remains responsive. I do not like a twitchy frame, and this will definitely be not one. With the price being lower than T1550 Gen 2 and not that much heavier, this is a sweet spot for aero high end Chinese frames, if I can say so. It will be a great purchase for Black Friday this November if it gets discounted or bundled with wheelset.

Just a quick note, I learned the hard way that Topeak fly paper glueless patches work really well on TPU tubes. It's been 4 days since I punctured and did a roadside repair with them. Holding very well without losing air more than what is usual for TPU tubes. Just scuff up the puncture site gently to make adhesion better and that's it.