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Messages - rasch

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1
I've answered the user in pm, but I'm 1.88/1.89 sometimes 1.9 depending on whoever measures me and how lol.

Anyway I have a 58 and feel it a bit too long with a 100mm stem for recreational use. I don't get any hand numbness or neck pain. Just some foot numbness but that's seat height and cleats position (and current overwheight Ahahah)

I think canyon calculation is actually not that way off. You'll get similar geometry on the aeroad and ultimate which are racing bikes. If you go for endurance, you'll get their L size too but geometry is completely different and not racing oriented at all.

Canyon doesn't do a bad calculation. Actually I see most brands starting to do much better suggestions than before.


Bike fitting industry is also thst... Some industry.


2



Have you got any of those personally-VB 066 in L or TT FM202 in L ?

If so could you share your height and inseam ? What stem length will you recommend for them in size L ?(top tube for both-560 mm)

I don't have it for me but both are the 'same'
189. 89.5
I tried 110mm stem measured from top in handlebars which are L shaped (and don't have that to alike bend which adds like 10mm) and it was pretty comfortable. But didn't do many km. Position was on the upright side but had some spacers.

I have light carbon lcr 17 but its more agressive. I have the 58 with 110mm stem measured from top they call it 100 and 0 offset seatpost.

3
Both options are great! You can add the Carbonda 1136, Tantan FM202 (or similar, eg. OGEvkin et) and the hongfu 238. This latest one haven't tried it yet as none of my clients wanted it yet.

All are great options. Hongfu and Carbonada are more expensive. The other two are on the cheaper side.

All these provide solutions for the HB (integrated or none) so i'd stick with them for simplicity.

I'm roughly your height and inseam and I can tell you that usually TT and VB L size is quite good if you play with the stem length. Just beware that different hb can have different reaches.

I'm expecting a frame similar to the FM202 mid this month in that particular size - Cecotti. I'll be able to provide more info then, but it should be the same mold

4
All road, but only 32C? No t47? That sounds dated.
Expensive, but no weight info ?
The T800/T1000 without weight could be 99.9pc t800 and a stamp size piece of t1000.
The fork looks very non aerodynamic.

I agree that all road is actually a bit tricky with this tyre width, whatever all road actually means, because it is what? Sth in the middle of road and gravel?

This looks like a solid endurance frame. No fancy design, no quirks etc.

Bottom bracket is neither good nor bad. As long as it's round all over, it's all the same - though I also have a preference for t47. But thst doesn't make a frame good nor bad.

As regards carbon t800 t1000 or whatever, again, a well designed and constructed frame is better than any hype around that. This is not a frame for the tour de France. It's a frame for normal people.

If it wasn't for the price, I'd have sold already 10 of these this year.

5
Keep us updated on that build. Do you know what frame you are starting with?

Yeap!

Ordered already all the parts (I think). I'll disclose everything in a post as soon as I receive and analyse the quality of the different parts. But I can say already that if everything goes well I managed to be under 1k (pedals not included but could)

6
Yes it's not cheap, but from the quotes I got the closest competitor looks to be the Carbonda 1136 that's even more expensive

It's more or less at the same price.

At that amount I sell western bikes :) Brand sells and riding a Merida Scultura 5000 with 105 di2 and Elite Carbon wheels for 2.4K/2.5 sells way more than a non-brand china build with di2 and carbon wheels for the same price or more.

There is a seller here in the forum pietro or similar who was going to create an endurance frame but price seemed to be even higher.

If you want my two cents, and what I build most, get a velobuild 066 or a Tantan FM202/og-evkin etc. Still endurance, nice a bit more traditional design but trustworthy.

I was dared by a client to build the most budget friendly carbon 10/11speed hydraulic disc brake xD. I'm gonna try to do it under 1K

7
I've been in touch with them. Problem for me and my clients has been the price. When you add all the bits and bytes it goes above 1k

They produce good quality stuff though

8
Including what exactly? A few weeks ago, i could only find 105 di2 for 1k eur in Europe, with components i wouldnt want to run (wrong crank arm length, heavy cassette, wrong gearing (cassette size & chainring size).
700 USD is 650 odd eur. It's not a price available in EU, afaik. That'd be killer. I'd probably get shimano and sell the brand new components i dont want.

You have it in aliexpress for 730... U will probably need to pay customs though hahaha

9
Agreed, but paying €400 for an unreliable electronic groupser is worse then paying €150 for a reliable mechanical groupset.
My intention for this option was: "Chinese electronic groupsets arent worth it, but 105 Di2 is not a viable option in a "value-oriented build"

I personaly am looking for a €+-2500 bike build. Shimano Di2 is possible when pairing it with a entry-level elitewheels pair of wheels and a tantan frame instead of a nice pair of wheels from the likes of Peter and frame from the likes of speeder.

And what do you mean by saying  "chinese e-groupsets become way too close to 105 di2 or sram rival etap to justify whatever"
The performance of the chinese options is way to close to justify the premuim of 105
Or
The price of of the chinese options is way to close to justify the hassle of chinese options?

For me, value for money is in mechanical hydraulic groupsets. 105 7020 in second hand or ltwoo R9 hydraulic.

A full 105 di2 costs around 900EUR. A full chinese eletronic groupset will cost you probably 700€. Of course you can play a bit "more" on the parts of china builds but well a full 105 di2 will always be reliable, resellable etc.

With 2.5K you can get a western brand bike with di2 and add elite wheels. But you need to search a bit and maybe you can't have the handlebar you want, but it'll still be a western brand bike.




10
Tagged price was 411.32 + shipping via seller shipping method - to avoid customs.

I've edited my post because final  price all depends on your country and tax regime. This way I don't mislead anyone. You can always contact matter

Matter mentioned some lighter rims, but I was on the edge of my clients total purchase budget. If it was for me I'd have probably gone for that.

Without the aliexpress discounts is more or less on the same price of my ex wheel provider

11
Ordered today a standard weight 50mm, 23int - 30,5ext to a customer.

Communication done in parallel via whatsapp with clear, fast and direct answers. Will keep you all posted and see how it compares to other wheels


12
A few minor points:
  • if your post subject mentions eletronic, doesn't make sense the poll has mechanical. In any case I voted mechanical. Though I love electronic, the word "budget" is a bit of a grey area when we talk about 150€ vs 400€
  • if you live in the EU and you need a full groupset, chinese e-groupsets become way too close to 105 di2 or sram rival etap to justify whatever
  • in my view, chinese groupsets make sense only for upgrades on 9-10-11 speeds. For 12s bikes, assuming it's a new bike, better to buy di2 directly
  • living in the EU, please consider that most likely you will pay customs


Talking about budget, I was recently challenged to build the most budget conscious price/quality bike. I have a number I'd like to beat but won't be easy ahah

13
Thata the same frame as many other. You have it on velobuild, Tantan etc. It's an ok frame. Can look very good in the right colours and size. Just make sure that it is built using Eps technology

14
Anyone with an idea on the loudness of these hubs?

I need to change wheels provider but most ppl I build to want less noisy hubs. Most these ratchets are like super noisy.

15
And I am in the Chinese frame market again and looking to build a new bike since my Yishun R086D is now taking a toll on me. (Geometry is too aggressive and I ain't getting any younger)

So to anyone who bought this frame, how is the ride feel?

It's definitely less agressive than the one you had, but it is still somewhat agressive. So it really depends on what u are looking for.

Ride quality is good, construction quality as well. It's a solid choice and a breeze to assemble. I have one for myself as well.

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