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Messages - amacal1

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1
Component Deals & Selection / Re: Magene P515 PES Spider Powermeter
« on: August 17, 2026, 02:53:40 PM »
same here, the creaking is crazy. I already replaced the chainring-Screws, cleaned everything and greased it. No changes.
I am pretty sure it is because of the size difference between the mount and the spider.
and imo the creaking comes either from
lockring and spider is "rubbing" or
spider and mount is "rubbing".
tried 2 different type of grease already.
I would say it is a little quieter than before, but tbh i'm slowly going crazy.
So it could be imagination.

btw: Geoid PM500 seems to have the same issue.

Lmao. I am just coming to terms with this and realizing the crazy, crazy creaking I have is likely my Magene P515 crank. It was just a little creak last 2 weeks, but this weekend it was INSANE. I was avoiding taking it apart because I was nervous about running into an issue putting it back together. I am probably going to do it in the next couple of days.

But, also, I have a Geoid PM500 I just installed on another bike that I haven't finished. Oh boy. Creak city there, too?!

2
Maintenance, Mechanics, & Tools / 3D Printed Computer Mount
« on: May 04, 2026, 12:13:15 PM »
I designed and 3d printed a computer / garmin mount for my Twitter C6 stock bars. The stock bars have the computer mount holes on a curved portion of the bar, which makes modeling something a little tricky. The frame came with a computer mount, but I never liked it and it eventually fatigued and broke because, I guess, the stress caused by being mounted on a curved portion of the bar. Anyway, hit me up if you have a C6 and are interested in downloading and printing this. Printed in PETG and it's proven plenty strong enough. I had one fail after 2-3months of use where the 1/4turn mount is. I will likely re-design in the future so that it's not an all-in-one design and you can simply replace the 1/4turn mount if that happens (or replace with an off-the-shelft garmin 1/4turn mount).

It's very basic and not very fancy. I have some ideas to make it cooler and more functional, but I did the first one really fast and then never had the motivation to go back and improve it. Such is life! I'll get around to it eventually.

3
Metal Frames / Re: Twitter C6 budget build
« on: May 04, 2026, 12:10:08 PM »
In case anyone does some searching and comes across this, I figured I'd share it. I designed and 3d printed a computer / garmin mount for my Twitter C6 stock bars. The stock bars have the computer mount holes on a curved portion of the bar, which makes modeling something a little tricky. The frame came with a computer mount, but I never liked it and it eventually fatigued and broke because, I guess, the stress caused by being mounted on a curved portion of the bar. Anyway, hit me up if you have one and are interested in downloading and printing this. Printed in PETG and it's proven plenty strong enough. I had one fail after 2-3months of use where the 1/4turn mount is. I will likely re-design in the future so that it's not an all-in-one design and you can simply replace the 1/4turn mount if that happens (or replace with an off-the-shelft garmin 1/4turn mount).


4
Component Deals & Selection / Re: Magene P515 PES Spider Powermeter
« on: February 25, 2026, 10:48:29 AM »
Kind of a stupid question, but when you zero offset by pedaling backwards 5 times doesn't the fact that you apply pressure on the pedals messes up with the zeroing ?

For crank based PM's you are not supposed to mess with them while you perform a zero offset.

Not a stupid question at all, I've wondered the same thing. Most power meters and headunits that allow you to zero offset mention that you shouldn't even be clipped in. When I do it, I tend to do it by hand so I'm not clipped in. But, even still, I've found myself wondering if it "zeroes" while I'm still spinning it or if it zeros immediately after I stop spinning it, or what? I have no idea. If you find an answer, please share!

5
Maintenance, Mechanics, & Tools / Re: 150T Chosen Hub Issue
« on: February 16, 2026, 09:37:16 AM »
For future reference for anyone who might stumble upon this in desperation, I did fully identify the problem and find replacement parts. Unfortunately, they were not from the OEM and I never found an official channel for them. However, it looks like a UK company called RSP sold wheelsets that used Chosen hubs and someone on eBay had New-Old-Stock parts sitting around and being sold cheap. Not so cheap after paying import taxes and stupid tariffs and shipping to the US, but still cheaper than a whole new hub and without the labor. They were not being sold as "Chosen" hub parts, but rather "RSP 150T" or "RSP 150P" hub parts. The pictures were absolutely identical, though.

As for the issue, it appears that the pawls weren't actually losing engagement and "slipping" in a traditional way. Rather, the aluminum driver body itself had little sockets that the pawls sit in and pivot in. Those little aluminum pockets were being eaten away at and it allowed the pawls to back into them to the point that they would lose engagement.


6
Cyclocross Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: LTWOO eGR
« on: February 06, 2026, 08:37:14 AM »
hmm...now I'm curious if I could fit a 12s 11-51 cassette. I'd like to run the same cassette on my gravel bike as my mtb just for uniformity sake.

I run a 12sp 11-50 cassette.

7
Are you me? Well, at least the alternate version of me that almost picked up a Lynskey when they had their ridiculous eBay sale and then built it with all Chinese components?

I ended up cheaping out and getting a Twitter frame for super cheap, but I was sooo close to getting a Lynskey.

8
Component Deals & Selection / Re: Cycplus r200
« on: February 04, 2026, 11:14:32 AM »
I have a Kickr Core 2, and I also use MyWhoosh. I can't imagine paying $20/mo to use Zwift or Rouvy instead. MyWhoosh is such good value (literally free).

9
Holy hell, both the blue and silver are SEXY. Wow, that's a pretty bike.

I'd love to get one, but with the current US prices, they were just a bit more than I thought worth it. Seeing these pictures is giving me some serious regret at not getting one, though.

10
Cyclocross Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: LTWOO eGR
« on: January 27, 2026, 11:53:29 AM »
Is it possible to get a summary of this groupset so far, given that this thread is now over two years old?

- What are the long-term reviews so far?
- Does the groupset still have known issues?
- Has anyone tried the "2026 version" being offered on AliExpress?
- Are there any known updates in the pipeline? I'm really hoping for a version that charges over USB-C.

I am considering it for a 1x12 endurance bike (40 x 10-46).

For all of these groupsets, I encouraged people to make new threads for the new versions, but people just keep coming back to the same old thread. The new 2026 versions are entirely different animals compared to the ones released 2 years ago, so I can understand your frustration.

I have an original release eGR. It's been fantastic. I only have about 1000mi on it over the last 2 years, but it does have 1000mi and has lasted 2 years coming up in February. Shifting suffered a little after a big crash where I think I bent something and didn't like going up to 50t 12x drive, but it still shifts pretty well (all things considered). I literally have never changed the brifter battery since I put a Duracell 2032 cell in it when I first installed it, lol. One day it's going to die on me, and I'll whip out my phone and switch to my left brifter.

I think the new 2026 eGR would SUCK, if only because it has no way to charge it other than removing the seatpost or unplugging the rear derailleur. That was a massive downgrade in feature, in my opinion. Maybe they had some water ingress issues in the eR9/eRX lineup that made them eliminate the magnetic charger, I don't know. But my eGR hasn't seemed to mind water (though I try not to douse it). In my opinion, constantly plugging/un-plugging/putting-stress-on the rear power port is going to cause WAY more issues. But, what do I know?

11
it would be nice to have music

Do any cycling components play music? I had always assumed they didn't support things like that for safety / liability reasons. I mean, many, many Garmin watches support music playback, but ZERO bike head units.

12
Component Deals & Selection / Re: chinese carbon saddles
« on: December 22, 2025, 08:28:11 AM »
During these latest sales I picked up a Mixed 5D carbon saddle for less than $25. I have to say, I'm quite impressed with it. It fits me a little more comfortably than the last Ryet I picked up (which was a big reason I bought it, because I was a little disappointed in that Ryet). I guess I now have an entire fleet of chinese carbon saddles. If I had to rank them for my personal comfort, this is my ranking:

#1 - Ryet X6P (carbon / 3d printed top) [note: I love this saddle. It fits me perfectly and I feel almost no discomfort even after finishing a century]
#2 - Mixed 5D (carbon / eva top)
#3 - Ryet (idk Superflow?, maybe) (carbon / eva top)
#4 - Ryet Aircode (carbon / 3d printed top)

I should point out, I've ridden century rides in every single one of those saddles (except the Mixed 5D, since I just rode with it for the first time this weekend). My oldest, the original Ryet Aircode, is the funniest one to me, because I find it rather uncomfortable for short rides. After 10-20miles my butt is a little sore and I would wonder why I hadn't removed it from my bike yet. Then, after 20mi, it just stopped bothering me. Every. Single. Time. I've never experienced anything like that. Of course, I did eventually remove it, because those other ones start out more comfortable and stay more comfortable.

13
A few years back someone posted the financials of both LTwoo and Sensah on here, and LTwoo was way more funded (with some western venture backing included).

Almost every walmart bike has Ltwoo groupsets. That's a lot of sales JUST from walmarts.

14
Component Deals & Selection / Re: chinese carbon saddles
« on: November 26, 2025, 03:47:00 PM »
I had bib wear on my ryet aircode (the pro stealth version). It's definately a combination of the open cell 3d print at the edges and the wide nose design and nothing to do with saddle height as someone mentioned. I placed gorilla tape at the edges and the rubbing was gone.


Can confirm that the original Aircode has a SUPER wide nose that led to some rubbing on my thighs. I was worried about ruining my bibs, but after a few hundred miles I never saw anything that bad. I switched from an Aircode to a different Ryet saddle with a 3d printed top (no wide nose) and I see zero rubbing and zero bib wear after thousands of miles.

15
Elita One is still the way to go. Just make sure you mount the seatpost correctly (shown in the manual), because there's a post here that had OP's seatpost cracking because of a mistake.

That would be me! Don't be a dummy, folks. Read your manuals.

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