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Messages - estingo

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1
Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Replica Factor Ostro VAM
« on: September 22, 2025, 03:17:41 AM »
My 2.0 has just arrived from Taiwan Glory and I am very impressed.  The colour I chose was 'blue to purple chameleon' - the colourway pops !

Looks very nice! Enjoy the build and a nice paint job you chose.

2
Just thought I’d add my 2 cents to this group, as I finally received my frameset at the weekend. I ordered from Polar bicycle store on AliExpress a few months ago. However the frameset took a little longer than others,as I ordered the raw finish with the hologram logo which seems to be more difficult to manufacture and this seller was the first to have it on the market. Honestly I was a PITA customer asking loads of questions and being really picky about every detail, he answered all my questions thoroughly and promptly and never complained.

For a size medium/54cm frame weight was 898g, front fork uncut was 410g, 0mm offset seatpost was 125g and a Darimo nexum drag replica in 380x100mm was 284g.

The quality was outstanding and just as good as any western brand, perhaps even better. The facing on the BB shell meant there was no paint and the threads were super smooth. The handlebar and seatpost were a super tight fit with no play and the mounts for the calipers were also really well faced and the calipers were perfectly parallel with the rotors when I built it up.

Anyway here’s some pictures of the final build, came in at 6.7kg without bar tape.

Nice build and impressive weight! have fun riding it, every km or mile counts!

3
Tideacebike

Like the frame, I was also considering buying the factor replica before. The customer service was pretty good from Eddy. Unfortunately, I didn't win this frame, but a chance to win it is always cool!

4
I've purchased it on Aliexpress (store: taiwan factory bike parts Store - model New Model Fasterway Ostro) and I could choose between any factor color scheme (painted or the stickers are under the paint), I doubted the one without any paint or just the clear paint that you could see the carbon layers. I know a lot of people here don't like replicas or placing a brand name on a copied frame, but in the end, I still did it, because I liked it (sorry).

I had to look back which seller I actually had, because I forgot it and have since I build the bike now around 5300 km done, and still going strong.

I have now confirmed that Colonel's supplier (Taiwan Glory Bike Store Store) is the latest 2025 V2 EPS molding hence the better quality.

For anyone keeping up with this thread, avoid taiwan factory bike parts Store as they could not guarantee the quality and would not confirm 100% refund it not happy.

I think it's quite an aggressive claim to be honest, but I do believe before you make a purchase it's good to do your own research. If I had a chance to do it again, I would probably also take another seller that is known for a nicer and smoother internal build, however I want to make a point that it is not exploding or cracking or what so ever. I'm riding it, 3 to 4 times a week and it's holding firmly, steady, solid, it's fast, etc., even with all the "fake" stuff that is not done here on the forum.

So I'm still happy with my Taiwan Factory Bike Parts Store replica factor frame, that everyone should avoid!

5
Very nice and awesome build! Looks insanely good!

After reading your short update, I have some questions: What were your nightmare parts?
Notice any differences in version 1 and 2?

cheers hand safe and happy km/miles to ride!

6
Those video's coming out are great from the EuroBike 2025 show, saw the one of Hambini, was really impressed with the Gravel model from Seka. But also the Magnesium rims look interesting, like all the stuff that kbernstein said ;)

7
Hi Jouke,

Here a picture how mine looks like, not sure if I can help you with this.

8
Yesterday during a group ride, I saw someone trying to overtake us on a Factor Ostro frame. It was the first time I’d ever seen one in the wild—you recognize it immediately. He was drafting behind us for a while and then tried to jump ahead, but he wasn’t going fast enough to break away from our group (around 40km/h). That gave me the chance to ride behind him and check out the bike.

There were no logos on the frame, just a glossy UD weave. The Black Inc handlebar and wheels stood out—the wheels looked like they were about 50mm deep, with only the Black Inc logo on the hub. It had a solid Ultegra groupset, though I couldn’t really see the crankset clearly. He also had those ultra-light 7-gram bottle cages from AliExpress.

I was pretty stoked to finally see the same bike in person, and I think you guys would love it too—especially since it didn’t have any logos.

Anyway, if the rider was local, it must’ve been somewhere near Goes in the Netherlands.

9
Issue solved, AliX seller, send to me another RD and I got it yesterday. Connected everything but couldn't connect the shifters. Deleted everything again, and connected first RD then FD, this was working on the app. Then I took both batteries from the shifters out. Pressed the button and added the battery first right. pressed it down and hold the button in. blue pairing light paired. connect to the RD with cable loader on it. Took that off then it's also in pairing mode and Bam connected. Now did the same with the left shifter and connect it to the RD instead of the FD because that's the main connector (the RD) and Bam connected. problem solved!

However, I was too nervous and couldn't wait until the seller and Wheeltop resolved the issue so I also bought another one at https://xzxcomponents.com/ So in the end I will have two. So if I have got this problem again I have a spare one, this wasn't my initial idea but oke what ever I'm not gone send it back. And Facebook Wheeltop user group was a blessing, what a positive feedback with all the people that have issues.

10
Yesterday I took wheels for a proper ride, bit of a climbing, some flats and a long descends, all in a winds with gusts up to 80 km/h. Wheels are definitely on the stiff side, my bike is already very stiff so I felt a difference compared to my previous carbon wheels. Road chatter is easily picked up and you can feel it on your hands, especially on the hoods, but not that much in the drops. Sidewinds do affect the wheels but not that much and this is what I really cannot fully confirm. I felt few wind pushes from the side but mostly the wheels are balanced and stable. On the flats they roll nicely and I was able to hold my power around 350W and maintain a speed of 45 km/h with compact crankset (34/50). During the descends wheels are nice and they are not twitchy.

I am not a pro rider and I didn't tested a ton of other wheels but I can say they are worth the money and they are upgrade over my 1000 EUR wheels. A bit on the stiff side but that could be good thing. No problems so far and I also backordered a few spare spokes from Matter.

What kind of wheels did you had previous to using the Tagoola DAO50s? Interesting that you say that they are stiffer, do you have carbon spokes on the 100 euro wheels or also steel? for me the Carbon spoke wheels are stiffer than the Tagoola. Also with the same power output, only not the same speed.

11
I've got a Cema T47A bottom bracket, they have only 1 size for the T47 BB.
Bartape I used Lizzard Skin and now I have Deda Elementi Perforated (quite light and still comfortable)
Saddle, I used Fiziks, SMP, Selle Italia, but now I have on the bike a Cheap Ryet AliExpress saddle because it's lighter than the big brands and still comfortable.

If you care for not being called out, do the pro tips from OralMaster, you also need Black Inc Wheels, fakes costs around 600 euro's  second hand are they going for 1500 euro's new are they the double.
Also, do not use any Chinese groupset, (LTWOO / Wheeltop / SENSAH) then you will be called out as well. At least here on the forum.

Good luck the V2 looks insane!

12
Have a pair of these https://vi.aliexpress.com/item/1005004767705476.html and the rear has started creaking after limited use. Rode them a few times earlier on with no noticeable issues and then been mainly riding another bike - with the rubbish weather here.

Rode them again recently and found the noise appeared - maybe they've just bedded in. Subsequently I've definitely isolated the noise to the rear wheel - by elimination I ruled out the seapost area, bottom bracket area or anything on the front of the bike. Proved it today by riding a different rear wheel with zero noise.

Noise happens when in a low gear and torquing - think slowly up a steep hill. No crashes, dropping into potholes or similar.

Suggestion of one of the other bikers I know was to lube the spokes. So I plan to put a small amount of grease where the spokes overlap and touch initially and see how that goes. If that fails then I guess I need to think of where the spokes, nipples and rim meet.

Anyone got any alternate thoughts / suggestions pls?
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Edit
Actually I haven't changed the cassette -  so that may be worth doing first or after lubing the cross spokes point?

I had this issue in Rouvy when it was really steep on my Saris H3 trainer. When I switched back to Zwift, I didn't had it anymore. I tightened the Casette checked the hub, etc. Controlled the Bottom bracket and made sure it was the correct torq. Unfortunatly no hills here to test it in person outside. but I got it with Low cadance and high torq. I also have elite wheels that's why I was triggered but I haven't experienced it yet outside.

13
I have to admit that I need some help concerning the EDS TX system I am running.   I can't figure out anyway to recover from this problem.

Yesterday, 17 miles from home after climbing a long hill I turned around.  When I tried to shift the rear derailleur, nothing!  I tried the front derailleur. No shifting!   I stopped and pulled up the App.   I could shift the rear derailleur a few gears using the app, and the front wouldn't shift.   I coasted down the hill in a lower gear.  When I stopped,I checked all of the battery levels.  50% rear derailleur, 80% front derailleur, 2.99 volts front derailleur shifter, 2.92 volts rear derailleur shifter.  (I replaced the rear shifter RH lever battery with the spare I carry. )
 This allowed the rear derailleur to shift and I made it home.  (Both lever batteries died at the same time?)   

This morning, I replaced both lever batteries with brand new Duracell ones. (3.3 volts)   Front derailleur light turns green, and I hear the motor buzz, but it wont shift.  The rear derailleur thinks that 5gear is 1gear, and it wont shift any further down to a higher gear.      When the rear derailleur is in the 3gear on the app, it wont shift down to the 1 gear to try to perform an initial calibration because it says the front derailleur has to be in the big ring.  But the front wont shift.   I've spent over a 1/2 hour trying to get the derailleur to move to the actual 1 gear position.     DOES ANYONE KNOW HOW TO RESET THE REAR DERAILLEUR DOWN INTO THE 1GEAR POSITION?   ANY IDEAS WHY THE FRONT DERAILLEUR WONT SHIFT?   Thanks.

I can't find any recovery features in the current version of the app to be able to manually move the rear derailleur back down to the 1gear (Highest cog on the cassette.)  Am I missing some feature in the App I can't find?   

Have this issue as well. But it's the first day, contacted wheeltop and Aliexpress shop but now it's too late to respond. The battery seems not being capable of moving the motor of the derailleur or it's broke. But I'll try it tomorrow again. Loaded the batteries, have the latest software, replaced the batteries from the shifters. Need to see how and what. Will read on the Wheeltop facebook page now as well. I also would like to know what you wrote in capital letters.

You're not the only one...   Problems like and very similar to what you experienced are being reported on the Facebook Wheeltop forums.   This past Friday, (May 9th) I had both of my EDS TX derailleurs stop shifting.  Both levers were not responsive.  (This is the second time this has happened to me.)   I was able to use my app to shift the derailleurs, but both derailleurs lost their "initial calibration" positions.   I performed a rear derailleur "initial position" setting from the 6gear, down to the 1gear using the app, and was able to shift/limp home shifting with the app.   I spent a lot of time the next day trying everything I could think of to get the shifters to pair/work with the derailleurs.  I gave up.  The next day, I tried shifting, and the shifters worked!   I had to reset the "Initial calibration" positions again for both derailleurs.   For some unknown reason/s they just started working again...

Other owners are speculating the following, but they have not presented any real data to support their theories:   1.  The EDS TX derailleurs are susceptible to hard impacts, or vibrations that somehow causes the derailleur to lose power, causing it to go brain dead and stop shifting.    2.  Some speculation that after upgrading to the latest firmware, the rear derailleur stops working, and will reboot itself sometime in the unknown future, causing it to stop working, forget what it is paired to, and as a result you have to set up the derailleur from scratch.   3.  When this happens,  the derailleur moving to the 6gear position on the cassette appears to be common with these problems.

So, okay, I'm not the only one that's already a good sign, or not... but I had 1 lever that was dead so I replaced the battery and then it started. the rear derailleur didn't want to work anymore. Let's see tomorrow how it goes.

Anyone? Would really appreciate any help.

I have always saved this: compatible with LO4A brake pads so I didn't bought them yet but have them on my AliEpxress wishlist: https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/1005006305272176.html?channel=twinner
I can't say with 100% confidence that they fit but I would try these ones.

14
I drove now several times on the DAO50 Wave from Tagoola (1386 gram) and compared to my Elite Drive D65 (1516 gram) they are very good with crosswinds (obviously) but I'm amazed how much easier it is, even though they are also "deep" 45-50mm. As an addition the steelspokes sounds awesome compared to my carbon spokes from the elite wheels so, I would give that a plus as well. The hub is a bit disappointing but yeah you can't compare that to a middle tier wheelset of 944 euro. These are I think entry level (316 euro) and the price/quality is also what you pay for.

I'm just 300 km in, and I'm pretty content with them. I tested them with Pirelli P-zero race RS and Maxxis Highroads SL, both easy to put on the wheel. I think the rolling resistance is a bit better for the Pirelli's, but it's almost not noticeable for me. I bought and tried the Highroads because they are lighter (184 gram instead of 243 gram), without considering that the rolling resistance might be more.

In total the wheelset from Tagoola is 200 grams lighter with tires, inner tpu, discs and cassette on it compared to the Elite drives. But then again I should have compared them to the Elite D50 maybe but then there was no point of getting them, I wanted the 65mm and now I have a bit shallower so of course they are lighter less material, but then heavier spokes.

Anyway I happy with either wheelset but I just wanted to share my experience with it

15
I appreciate your standpoint, but I politely see things a bit differently. My intention isn’t to change your opinion, but rather to share that I have a different perspective. It seems you’re quite against replicas and D-shaped steer tubes, and I understand your concerns. However, I believe and slightly agree with you that people who order fakes might not be fully aware, such as whether the steerer tube uses a proprietary part, since they might not have seen discussions like ours.

I think both of us genuinely want to share honest opinions about frames and potential issues one might face when choosing different brands or types.

By the way, I’m far from a gangsta, e.g. — I ordered a second seatpost wedge from the original seller on AliExpress, and I paid the standard price, not a premium. The seatpost is a copy, but I’ve also fitted the original Factor seatpost in my frame, along with a lightweight Ali Darimo-type one.

It’s clear that no single type is always the best; often, there are multiple solutions, and more options can lead to good outcomes, also with a d-shape steerer tube.


 

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