Quote from: hazzer19 on November 30, 2023, 01:15:14 AM
VeloBuild's new road frame: https://www.velobuild.com/products/velobuild-2024-vb-r-268-carbon-fiber-aero-road-frame-disc-integrated-cables

Has anybody try or use a 700c/40 mm tubeless tire?   I know the specs have a max 700c/32 which is what I have in one of my wheels (Hutchinson Challenge 32 mm) and I love it, fast, no punctures. I was reading in BikeRadar and they have a revue of the faster "gravel" tire, the Hutchinson  Caracal Race and it only comes in a 700c/40. It is just for curiosity that I ask this question. The Hutchinson Challenge I have it is also great in gravel and fast.
Thank you.

Quote from: Benbenben on May 23, 2025, 07:33:56 AM
I have been struggling with clunking noise from the bar while sprintong/climbing hard or just rocking left and right. Did everyone I could think of. Played with torque on all related hardware, increased clearance with headset cover/ fork top. Issue seems to be coming from the bar itself. I inspected it many times, without any cracks findings.

I am writing here before going to Chris for warranty request since I have the bike for more than a year, but has been struggling with that issue since day 1.

Anyone faced that issue?

1. With carbon frames sometimes is hard to determine where the noise is coming from. I had a similar issue. I was sure the noise was from handlebar, headtube and it took me sometime to figure out that is was from the saddle!!.

2. Be sure that you can reproduce the noise standing up or moving the handlebar when you are not sitting

3. We do not know if you have an integrated handlebar or a stem/handle bar. 

4. If you have a stem/handlebar, sometimes the noise comes from there. The easy way is lose the front plate, wrap the handlebar with teflon tape (the one use in plumbing) and thigh it.

5. If noise still is there, when you rock the handlebar with the bike still, press the front brake, place your hand around the fork headtube and rock the bar, If movement then you have to tight the headset (or replace it)

6. How many headtubing spacers did you have? are they setup correctly (pins and holes aligned?). The expander bolt that comes with the frame is short one, if you have extra spacers you can get longer expander bolt from Alibaba. You have to measure the distance from the hole inside the headtube that allows the front brake hydraulic to go inside of the fork)

7. If you can reproduce the noise with the bike still, it means rattling the internal  hydrauiic cables is not the issue.

8. Finally the last alternative like other users suggested is to take everything apart which ain't easy. If you get to this point, get some hydraulic cables sleeves and sliding them  inside of the frame so you will not get rattling. You will have to change the hydraulic tubing etc etc.

9. If all is OK and you get the noise when sprinting out of the saddle the press-fit BB is the most likely cause.

Good Luck. Chris is great but is very hard to diagnosed this type of problems over an e-mail ;-)

Ciao and Good Luck

Quote from: Lumenir on January 27, 2025, 09:02:01 AM
Ok thanks I'll try your strat, and report

about the mavic speed release, I bough one extra Real mavic speed release (with the torque lever thing) to get an extra one , and they are so much better than the normal one.
Its a bit sad that velobuild went for those speed release if they don't provide the "real" one, but I understand it's a money reason

A good reason to have the Mavic SR without the lever is aerodynamics. Also many road mechanics will use a power wrench that is impossible to use with the one you like.

Personally I like the one that came with the frame and I carry a (5-6mm S wrench in my seat bag). I had 2 pair of wheels so I order a second set from VB that also came with a derailleur hanger.

I love the Mavic SR but it takes few times to become familiar with.

Quote from: foniks on March 21, 2025, 06:18:42 AM
Get some spares axles from VB for the trainer.

Stupid question, is 30mm spacer height safe for this fork (comes with 15+10+5 right)? Including the bottom headset cover it is 45mm. It is a bit above enve and below whisky recommendations. Also, using a micro spacer above the stem would be stupid right? I'm probably paranoid, lol.

I have to face the same problem. I like a small frame than the one "fits me"  but then the heat tube high it smaller than the one I need. I got and extra set of spacers from VC to be to raise the integrated handlebar 15 mm. To make the fork tube a little stronger I had 2 options:

1. Longer expander bolt 80mm

MUQZI Fork Steerer 28.6mm 31.8mm Expander Bicycle Fork Steerer Headset Stem Top Expansion Bolt   from Alibaba.com

2. A good alternative is the Zinn Steer Tube insert for carbon fork - 23.45mm Diameter - 4.9 OAL

https://www.bigandtallbike.com/steer-tube-insert-for-carbon-fork-238mm-diameter.html

I decided for Option #1 at 8NM.

I love the VB-R-268 and I am riding it every day in all terrains. What a beauty!

Q1: Max Tire Size?
Q2: Inner width of the new wheel?

I know VB recommendations are for 25-32 mm tire sizes.  Has any of you tried a 35 mm tire? I'm planning to get another set of wheel which I can get with 23 or 25 mm inner width.

I already have a set of wheels with 23 inner width and running 28 mm tires so my goal would be to have a second pair of wheel with wider tires to use on some rough gravel. I would appreciate if you help me in both questions. Even if VB will not accept a 35 mm tires should I get a wheel with 25mm inner width?

Thank you very much all!

Quote from: hazzer19 on October 22, 2024, 10:35:36 AM

Yes they look like the ones in the last photo on the page below and come in a few different sizes so you can use one or combine them.
https://www.velobuild.com/products/carbon-fiber-road-bike-integrated-handlebar-with-spacers-for-hidden-cables-routing

I do not know if you are familiar with integrated cables but if they are integrated it is very hard if not impossible to change the height of the stack without redoing the hydraulic cables which in pro hands takes about 4 hours.

A tip that I did not know when I setup my frame is that if you ride on rough roads you may hear the rattling of the hydraulic cables against the frame mainly the downtube. You can find an internal damper house foam sleeve, jagwire makes one, I believe were the first to come up with this gadget. I already bough them, so when the winter hits hard I plan to do it. I'm an old fashion and I ride with nothing in my ears so I can heard what ever is around me.

Quote from: hazzer19 on October 22, 2024, 10:35:36 AM

Yes they look like the ones in the last photo on the page below and come in a few different sizes so you can use one or combine them.
https://www.velobuild.com/products/carbon-fiber-road-bike-integrated-handlebar-with-spacers-for-hidden-cables-routing

Also, they are of excellent quality made from aluminum.

Quote from: some guy on October 19, 2024, 03:59:46 AM
can someone tell me how high the headset cover is that ships with the 268?

If you are referring to the top cup cover it is easy, I can remove it and measure it. If on the other hand you are talking about the to headset cover, it is not easy in these frames with integrated cables. Measuring "without removing" it is about 1.5 cm.

The new frame VR-R-268 is a product of the present trend in pro bike racing.

So here few points.

#1. Aerodynamics is the major element that pro racer looks for. The pro riders know their CdA and how to decrease it.
The more aero you are the faster you go for the same power.

#2 CdA is the quantitative measurement of aerodynamic drag.  The "A" is the frontal area of both the rider and the bike presented to the wind in the direction you travel. You can decrease the  "riders part" of the A by being on the drops instead of seating up. VB has paid a lot of attention to this part.

#3 Cd is the coefficient of drag. For example if you place a flat disk in a wind tunnel and make the A=1 the surface area will be 1 but the force the wind actually exert on the disk is a little higher let's say 1.15. So the CdA will be 1 x 1.15= 1.15. Now instead of flat disk, place cone with the tip forward and a front area the same A=1, but now the coefficient of drag will be far lower so the total CdA will be far lower (that is the reason why bullets for example are not flat at the front). Here VB has done a superb job in decreasing the Cd.

#4 VB aerobike like  the VR-R-268 is aimed at decreasing the Cd even if in some cases you may have a little weight penalty. Lower seat stays with a flat top, aero seat-post, kamm tail the downtube and a very nice combination of the seat-tube and rear wheel-tires to make the air flow smooth. The seat-post in the present bikes is more exposed comparing with years past so an aero seat-post is a must. VB has done a great job here.

5. The rider also has a "A" and "Cd". The "A" is obvious the more down the rider is the smaller the "A" but the "Cd" is not as clear, racer used to adopt the "puppy paws" position (which now is ban)etc.  The point here is that the position on the bike has changed and VB has done everything possible to allow this change. The seat is more forward as much as you can without braking the UCI rules "The tip of the saddle shall be a minimum of 50 mm to the rear of a vertical plane passing through the bottom bracket spindle." This forward position allow to open the leg body angle so you do not hit your body when you pedal. VB zero-offset seat-post goes along with this trend. Also rider use short saddles to go around this rule.

6. Along with #5 the back is flat and when racers place hand on the hood but keep the forearms flat (the most aero position) it is important than the angle between arms and forearms is 90 degrees or less so the distance between between brake hood and saddle is smaller than in the past, so you want a short top tube. To accomplish this aspect, pro racers are choosing smaller bikes than before. VB has a small frame and a 9 cm stem as the smallest. VB is ok here, even it could have offered an 8cm stem.

7. Components are also part of this trend. Cranks are shorter that were in the past, for example Tadej (176 cm) is using a 165 mm crank, Filippo Ganna (193 cm) iirc use a 170 crank for the hour record, MVP (184 cm) is in 172.5. The smaller cranks offer aero advantage, and also you are working in the area where mechanically you are stronger. Of course you need gears that you can spin. VB is compatible with all the component manufactures.

6. In pro racing mixing areas with good asphalt with unpaved or gravel road are becoming very common. Having a frame that accepts different width tires is important so you do not need to have a different bike for each terrain. VB has done a great job here allowing as to use tires up to 32. Many other frame manufactures have aero bike but basically designed around the 28 mm now standard in road racing. With this VB frame you can have 2 sets of wheels like a road with 28mm tire and wider rim wheel with a 32 mm gravel tire and if you want to do some rough single track gravel you just change the wheel.

7. Aerodynamics are important in flat terrain but also during climbing when you have a head wind, or the grade is not very steep, having you body down help, you can feel it on your legs and also if you have the correct setup, you may see the CdA not increasing. Few of the pro's climb with the forearm flat on the top of the handlebar.

7. The only part the VB has not touch for aerodynamics is the flared handlebars. The UCI set also rules there and a small flare would be OK. This rules changed in Jan 2024 included the brake levers angles and it may change again.

In summary VB offers a high quality frame with almost all the features that are trending in pro racing, before I got it I look around and I could not find one that I could place a check mark in each of the features I wanted with the exception of VB-R 264.

I have been trying to explain why the the VB-R-268 is my choice. VB has many frames with different features and for many of us may be better. I have more than a month since I start to ride, which I do everyday, in different terrains, with a 28 tire you can do most of the gravel. Sometime next year I will get a "gravel" wheel to do single track.

Chris has been great with fast replies to all my questions, so to have a good online service is also important part of the frame. I am very happy with this bike.

Note: I got and extra seat-post and seat-post clamp when I placed the order for the frame, I like to have them as spare and the price was very reasonable.  The seat-post seem very solid and very nicely made so most likely I will never need them.

Quote from: 2Burgen on August 06, 2024, 03:37:15 AM
I finished my build yesterday. Everything went fine and it rides well. After the first ride the headset was loose, but I hope it just compressed.

I really like the colors and VB made a really good job for the money with the paint.

2Bergen,

Congrats! Very nice build and love the colors you choose. Enjoy it.

Quote from: canadabike93 on July 30, 2024, 06:56:38 PM
What is everyone using for their Varia mount on this frame. The Garmin mount is too small for the seat tube.

Look at the pic of the previous message, the Varia Radar vount works great on the seatpost but you have to use the one with the rubber straps, you can not use the rigid mount.

Quote from: Serge_K on August 01, 2024, 05:38:16 AM
Sweet. What are you comparing it to, what were you riding before?

GURU a custom carbon frame made in Canada. I have other bikes but this was my fav until now.

I did not know that there were Campagnolo Bora copies, but that explains all the documentation that came with the wheels to be sure that the wheels were authentic, weird!. BTW the wheels are just great.

Quote from: Serge_K on July 30, 2024, 05:17:23 AM
That's amazing, love the fact you put a sram red group on a VB frame
Are the campagnolo wheels legit or copies?
you'll have to tell us how the bike rides compared to other bikes you've ridden. I suspect that if you're rocking sram red & Bora wheels, you know a thing or 2 about bikes.

Serge, yes the Campagnolo WTO are legits, imho are the best wheels in the market with the exception of the BoraWTO Ultra. Of course they are hooked rims. Despite of 45mm + 28 tire you barely feel the side winds.
I did many changes with this frame: 1. I choose a small frame (and a seat post with zero offset)  so it will allow me to be more aero, you will see some extra spacers but I can have my forearms flat (horizontal) when my hands are on hoods and my upper arms are 90 degrees with the forearms. 2. Also the present trends is for shorter cranks, so I have 160 mm which has many benefits.
How the VB rides? I love the ride, it climbs very well in part because is light, sprinting with hands on the drops it follow you, but the most important is descending where you can take hairpin corners at good speed, push down the handlebars and bikes respond as the best one, so you can shorten the radius or curvature in the middle of the corner. In summa love the frame, VB had done a superb job.

Quote from: hazzer19 on November 30, 2023, 01:15:14 AM
VeloBuild's new road frame: https://www.velobuild.com/products/velobuild-2024-vb-r-268-carbon-fiber-aero-road-frame-disc-integrated-cables

I love everything about this frame, high quality, excellent riding and love the small details:
- Integrated handlebar with cables hiding
- Mavic Safe Release
- Very well made aero seat-post with zero offset. It comes also with two clamps for a 7 and 9 mm (carbon) seat rails. I use a Selle Italia SLR boost carbon seat
- I choose glossy finish (carbon) and glossy black VB decal which i really like. They have done a very nice "paint" job.
- The build bicycle is pretty light: weights 17.85 lb with the Garmin 830, the AeroPod and the
bracket for the radar, Look pedals. water bottle cages Lezine carbon pump.

I will attach few pics.

A couple of suggestions:

1. With rim brakes the quick releases were part of the wheel, with disk brakes the thru-axle is part of the frame. The Mavic Safe Release is great but.. stays with the wheel which is good but if you want to use the thru-axle for something else like use a chain keeper to clean the chain without the wheel is not easy. So here is the tip: order a pair of Mavic Safe Release when you order the frame, yes it will cost you few more $ but it is worth it.

2. If you do your own maintenance you may or may not have the correct bike repair stand. The best way to clamp the bike is from the seat-post front and back, my previous rack was excellent for round seat-post but was not good for this aero seat-post so I invest few $ in a new stand.

A major asset of a company is how they interact with the customers, here VB is unique, Chris is gold is like having a friend inside of the company and major plus to order from VB.

Quote from: jcr on April 17, 2024, 06:53:39 AM
How do people like the Mavic speed release and wheel compatibility?

I like them. The following is from the Mavic Site"

"The Speed Release axle technology makes the use of thru axle faster, easier and safer.
In only 4 turns, it is screwed and unscrewed.
When removing the wheel from the frame, it doesn't need to be taken out from the hub. It stays on the wheel and you don't need an extra hand to hold it while manipulating the frame or the wheel. No risk of forgetting it on the parking lot.
It's integrated torque management system makes sure it is always perfectly tighten.
At last, at only 40g front and 45g rear, it is also one of the lightest thru axle on the market, with an integrated lever.
Only compatible with Speed Release compatible frames and forks (Lapierre, Orbea, Cannondale, Wilier, Origine, Enve, Votec, Airstreeem, Caminade, Victoire...)"