Hello everyone,

I'm coming for opionions on a not so fun topic, I was cleaning my bike and found this very concerning "chip" in the paint, after investigation I can't figure out if it is a clear coat chip or something serious.  I'm very scared to ride it because it seems to be on the top and external side

I would love to hear some opinions

Hi, has anyone had a recent cyclocross built ? Any frame suggestions for a CX build in 2024?

hi everyone after reading this topic I decided to give it a go and today I did my first 60km ride.

First I need to say that the feeling is great when I get the bike up to speed it holds it up very well.
It is my first experience with a bike build and I need to say that it wasn't as bad as some people say.
I chose 105 12 speed and the shifting is silky smooth, brakes are great too.

Problems I had with this particular frame. When I received the package, the derailleurs hangers were missing for both of the frames and one of the bolts to hold the derailleur was too short so I had to buy new bolts and cut them to the right length. The compression plug was bad quality so I chose to go with a BBB one and for now it seems all good.

Overall coming from a 2014 sensa romania, I'm absolutely in love with the bike, I think it looks stunning and feels way way faster. LMK if any of you have questions abt the build

PS: please guys don't overtight bolts

Hi everyone, I'm currently building the hygge up and I noticed an there are no cable stoppers with the frame.
I've seen many builds on this topic but none of them mention cable stoppers.
Did you go without it or found some that were fitting to the frame ? If so I would be glad to know where you got them

Quote from: ChineseBuilder on April 26, 2024, 04:07:09 AM
Wow these are some really good recommendations actually! I looked into the Dengfu R12 and that looks like a crazy beast. The only unfortunate thing is that it's slightly pricy.

For anyone wondering what parts I am getting:

Frame/Fork/Handlebar/Seat post: Tan Tan TT-X34
Groupset: Shimano Ultegra Disc R8020
Bottom bracket: Shimano Ultegra SM-BBR60
Power Meter: PES P505 Base Power Meter
Pedals: Shimano Ultegra R8000 SPD-SL Carbon Pedals
Wheels: Elitewheels SLR-DISC 2.0
Tires: Vittoria Corsa Pro G2 TLR
Saddle: Pro Stealth Sport Saddle

If anyone is curious about how the build turned out let me know 

Hi, I wanted to know how your wheels are holding up since elite ratchet hub seems pretty recent with very few reviews.
I'm hesitating between their SLR disc-2 and SLT disc. Dilema being is it better to have the ratchet hub from SLR or the ceramic bearings from the SLT

Hello everyone,

I received my frames a few days ago but the rear derailleur hanger seems to be missing from the box, does anyone knows what hanger I should get for this frame ?

Also I've seen some cheaper ceramic bottom bracket on aliexpress rather than the crazy expensive ceramspeed ceramic bottom bracket. I wondered if any of you ever had an experience with these aliexpress ceramic bearing bottom bracket?

Quote from: RoadieMKD on June 17, 2024, 03:52:06 AM
It's been a while since I received the frame but was only able to build the bike 3 weeks ago since I was waiting for the Ultegra DI2 upgrade kit to become available as I did not want to buy a complete groupset and end up with a BB and crankset that I will not use (crank length 172.5- I use 170 and PF BB). Wheelset is Elitewheels 65mm.

The build was super easy as am experienced building and servicing bikes and every part fits easily and how it's supposed to be.

To address the main issues discussed in this forum, seat post slipping and headset play, I have to say that I did not experience any seatpost slipping, which is mainly due to upgraded seatpost clamp with horizontal striations that lock the grippy part of the seatpost very well, and the mandatory use of carbon paste. As for the headset play, I did some mods to the C-ring. These consist of applying aluminium tape on top of the C-ring to increase the thickness by 0.3 mm (the same can be done with microspacer but I did not have any, so tape it is) and also 3 layers on the inside where the C-ring interfaces the steerer tube. I think that the C-ring needs to be 8,2mm total thickness (stock is 7,9) to avoid headset cover rubbing on the frame. If I did not add the tape, it would have rubbed after torquing down the top cap to 2.5-3 Nm. Another thig is to use carbon assembly paste on stem/steerer interface. After the initial ride the play returned but I did not torque enough initially (only finger tight to take up the slack, which is not enough obviously). Another thing that I done is also applied thread locker to the nut part of the stem bolts since there was none there and the bolts were rattling themselves loose (torqued to 6Nm only to become finger tight) after only one ride. After the mods of the C ring and top cap tightening and thread locker to the stem nuts there is no more play after 500 km with deliberate riding over cracked roads.

The supplied garmin mount acts as a leaf spring vibrating the hell out of everything attached to it. So far it has costed me a GPS unit (IGP sport, perfectly fine) which vibrated to disintegration, and yesterday my light had shorted out due to the vibrations. Use aluminium mount which may be sturdier than this thing.

The ride feel, as mentioned by other riders is subjective, but compared to my Cube Agree GTC Pro is waaaayyyy better and the bike is stiffer, a lot more responsive, rails corners, fits me a lot better and added 2-3 kmh to my average speeds instantly. Cruising at 45 km/h on the flats seems effortless or at least a lot easier to maintain. Thanks to @TidyDinosaur for advising me on sizing - this thing fits me like a glove (175.5cm 82 cm inseam and went with size S) with full stack of spacers to begin with but as I become more familiar with the bike I will remove 1cm of stack.

Total cost of this project 2500 eur. Can't beat that with what you get for this price compared to western brands.

P.S. for some reason I am unable to post with attached picture. I was only able to add this post as a quick reply. Any ideas of what might be the issue?

What size of handlbar did you get?
I'm the same height as you so since I am ordrering the frame in same size as you I would be happy to know

Quote from: Fleckinger on June 16, 2024, 01:56:56 PM
Headtube on my bike is solid. Here some photo of downtube, hope it helps.

Yes great help, thank you very much. your bike looks stunning

Quote from: repoman on June 16, 2024, 03:59:39 PM
You can't know much about aerodynamic efficiency by just looking at something. You need to test the stuff. Look at the nose of an F1 car, it's a very boxy shape.

Well there are still general rules that a profiled shape will be more effecient than a straigh surface. F1 can't be compared since they are made to create downforce

I have been reading so much on the forum that it is now so confusing to choose a "good frame"

I was originally going for LC017 but the down tube being as straight as a wall which is a no go, now I think that I will go with the Hygge model S but I can't find any picture with a clear view of the down tube shape.

Has anyone had experience with a bending head tube when you push on it (it is a common issue I've read about LC017)  with this frame ?

PS: If anyone wants to suggest me a frame I would be glad, I'm looking for a light climbing bike but not at the cost of aero like LC017 down tube.

Hi everyone, I'm considering buying the LCR017 but still uncertain about the color, has anyone seen what white chameleon looks like in real life ?  (Chameleon 7207 on Lightcarbon website)