Quote from: JMOS on June 07, 2025, 05:24:44 PM

I just saw that! May I ask how you removed the shoulder?

I have access to a milling machine, so I machined the material off. I also slightly shortened the axle (1mm), as I did not like150mm true Q-factor. I reckoned I paid cheap enough not make it as I want it. I stll paid 175eur at that time, without chainrings.

Quote from: JMOS on June 06, 2025, 04:43:40 AM
I think I found the reason for the big gap between spider and crank. It is due to the fact that the receiving end for the axle does not sit flush in the crank arm it protrudes by roughly 1 mm which equates the gap that I'm dealing with. Trying to explain that to AliExpress. But it hasn't proven to be successful yet. I don't think the person actually is making an effort to understand what I'm trying to explain to him or her.

I had the same complaint on page 3, with one of their first iterations.

Quote from: JACQUES on June 12, 2024, 02:25:34 PM
I assembled the spider (thank goodness I had the correct lockring tool), but found it strange that there is a 2.5mm shoulder that the spider rests on, causing a gap between the crank and the spider. Austetically this does not sit well with me. With this I also tried installing the crank, but when I try to centre in in my frame, the inner chainring touches the frame before the arms are evenly spaced.

So I was a bit bummed about this. I did reach out to the store about this and thry ensured that this is their new design.

I have thus decided that I will keep the cranks, but the shoulder should go. I will machine it off and also shorten the crank axle by 2mm.(Ill post some after photos if this is a success.

Now a question, does the xcadey powermeter have this same offset/gap?

You willsee I complained about similar in on the 29mm version. In the end I made them work as I wanted them, but I also found the q-factor wider than I wanted. You should be able to shorten each side of the axle by at least 1mm without problems with spline engagement.

I was thinking of getting a newer 29mm set, with the loose axle, then it can be shortened. I also wanted to see if other bb30/dub axles fit their spline interface, seeing as this copies easton and they use a standard bb30 interface.

You wont be able to fit a dub 29mm and a ti 24mm axle in the same spline, you would need an adapter to fill in the space that the 24mm is narrower.

This does however mean that you can pissibly swop the dub spindle for a shorter one, if the interface accepts the normal bb386/bb30 interface.

This is something that I wish I could have done with my set. Meaning I can finetune the q-factor.

This may intrigue me enough to buy another set.

Quote from: c.etzo on November 17, 2024, 11:03:35 AM
I've Just noticed that my "new " r1 received 2 days ago is like a new version
It has the same lockring on drive and NDS, and weight a Little more than previous received in june

Do you mean that both sides have a nut and its possible to remove the axle if you really want?

In April I was really kean on the eRX for a new build, in the en I got the eGR for my gravelbike and moved my Force AXS to the new road bike, that bike unfortuamely got stolen in September.

Im now again building a new road bike and Im impressed enough with the eGR that I now again want eRX for the new road bike. Currently this has the best looking shifter in my eyes and I realy like the ergonomics. But the current eRX really looks industrial wrt its front derailleur.

So again Im waiting for the new eRX "Blue" to be sold. I see its on its website, but nowhere available for sale.

No-one have more news when this will be actually for sale and why its taking so long?

Ive installed an eGR group on my gravelbike recently.
Must say Im impressed with the shifter ergonomics, they are very small in volume and feel similar to my 11sp etap rim brake shifters, except for the bump that houses the hydraulics.

I have some propper rechargeble batteries in there and thus far its still going on its first charge. Running 12spd with an 11-42 cassette and shifting is crisp and fast.

I did notice that the RD screws were coming loose, as it was mentioned in here earlier, but I just tightened them up again.

I did not do anything special with the cabling and have done some wet rides without a problem. I have found, however, that with my rh shifter, the buttons get stuck sometimes, but not in a shifting position. I do wish they would open the software to enable button setup, as I would much rather set it up to shift in the AXS style.

The brakes work astonishingly well, very light brake lever feel and definate bite point.

Will be testing it soon on some rougher gravel, but till now Im very impressed.

In the end I ended up removing the thick shoulder and shortening the axle by 1mm (only).

I use a spacer between the lockring for the spider and the spider itself. Now I have a Q-factor of 149mm, but if I measure from pedal insert face, its about 146mm.

I also now have more room to evenly space my crank arms and not have the blades touch my frame.

It could be that the blades I use (not the lexon carbon ones) also caused the chainline issue, but I like the overall look now better and I dropped another 10grams of weight.

I have now ordered the powermeter that goes with it, so will have to check the fit with that. If needed, I can always add in thin spacers between the crank and the spider again.

Hi everyone. First post on chinertown, must say, I like getting more insight on the product I buy as well, outside of the usual youtube channels.

Why Im on this thread. I bought a set of these lexon cranks, first without a powermeter.

First unboxing everything looked amazing, and weight is super.
I was super happy to see that I received one with a black bolt instead of the purple one.

I assembled the spider (thank goodness I had the correct lockring tool), but found it strange that there is a 2.5mm shoulder that the spider rests on, causing a gap between the crank and the spider. Austetically this does not sit well with me. With this I also tried installing the crank, but when I try to centre in in my frame, the inner chainring touches the frame before the arms are evenly spaced.

So I was a bit bummed about this. I did reach out to the store about this and thry ensured that this is their new design.

I have thus decided that I will keep the cranks, but the shoulder should go. I will machine it off and also shorten the crank axle by 2mm.(Ill post some after photos if this is a success.

Now a question, does the xcadey powermeter have this same offset/gap?