Quote from: Exar on July 20, 2025, 06:31:08 AM
Nope, had to use the SL7 bearing as well, the bearings that came with the frame are slightly different (so yes, you do need to re-do the cables/hoses as well). It's interesting that they (=Airwolf) messed this up, perhaps someone messed up during the copy-pasting of frame designs

How were you able to use the SL7 compression ring and also route cables through the head tube? In my experience, the cables (i'm just dealing with brake cables since running AXS) ran up the front of the fork steerer tube but the holes in the SL7 compression ring were on the side. Is there something I'm missing?

This is a great write-up. I am also extremely confused about how people are getting the SL7 compression ring to fit. I used the OEM compression ring (and the OEM bottom headset bearing). I did not have an issue with the bottom bearing being too short, but I have had an issue with headset play. I ended up doing something similar to you: basically Loctite and a combination of tightening the stem with and cranking down the headset bolt. I usually have no headset play for about three months at a time, then have to redo. Definitely annoying, but I also am pretty hard on the bike and like doing maintenance and tinkering, so it's not the biggest issue for me. Let me know if you figure out a solution.

I finally got everything built up and am mostly very happy with the bike. I opted to get the airwolf 24mm internal wheels with novatec hubs and those have been amazing. The only issue I had with the wheels was actually with the hub, which I wasn't expecting. I got centerline hubs and the interface on the front hub for the brake rotor did not want to accept any brake rotor (I tried a few). I finally was able to use a mallet to get the rotor far enough onto the hub that I then could use the BB tool and sinch it down. We'll see if that causes any issues but I think it'll be fine. As far as the frame, I had no problem routing the brake lines after using a rasp on the entry points in the fork and rear triangle. The only issue I've encountered is headset play. I purchased the SL7 compression ring but just could not get the brake lines to run cleanly through it from the fork. The lines run in front of the fork and then the SL7 compression ring would split them to the side and then I would run into issue with the headset spacers on top because they need the brake lines to be in the front again. So I used to compression ring that came with the bike. I did use the SL7 bearings and have had no issues with the fork rubbing on the top tube. But I just cannot seem to work out all of the play in the headset. I had the problem a user explained above where the expansion plug would work its way out of the top of the fork. I fixed this by adding locktight and also tightening down the bolts on the stem a little so they kind of holding the plug in place while I would tighten the top cap down. That process has worked well but I still seem to have a bit of play after every ride. I am wondering if the headset spacers, which do not seem to be great quality and don't look like they fit together perfectly are the issue-maybe they don't seat correctly and then work loose during a ride. Anyway, here are some pictures and a full parts list. Overall, I am very happy and I would buy this frame again (considering building one for my wife).

As an aside, I am using the ZTTO Ultralight 12sp 34t cassette and it has been... okay. There is a fair amount of noise with in the drivetrain which is annoying to my and sometimes my shifting isn't super clean. I may just bite the bullet and get a force cassette and hope for better luck. I'd appreciate any advice you guys have on this.

Let me know if you have any quesitons about the parts or build process!

Wheels: Airwolf 30mm wheels with 24mm internal; novatec hubs
Tires: Panracer Gravelking SS 38mm
Shifters/FD/RD/Brakes/crankset: Sram Force AXS
Saddle: Ergon SRX-3
Cassette: ZTTO ultralight 34t
chain: KMC X12 (is this my problem?)
Brake rotors: Bucklos centerlock floating rotors

Quote from: Phaxe on August 03, 2024, 04:09:28 AM
Finished for now. Everything seems pretty rock solid! Went with the eGR as I wanted to keep it budget. All in, this bike has cost me AUD$1750, and it's quite the bike for that cost!

Looks great. I'm interested to see how you like the eGR. I was tempted by their other e groupsets but eventually went with a mix of used and new Force AXS. I have just about all the parts for the build in now, just waiting for the frame/wheels.

Hi everyone. Long time lurker here. I've been wanting to build up an open mold frame for over a decade but I have talked myself out of it every time. Well this is finally the time. I plan on pulling the trigger on the frame once I pick a color-hopefully tonight. I really like the pearl pics I've seen on here but some of the metallic colors are awesome as well. I'm also piecing together a Sram Force AXS groupset-in part because I don't want to screw around with routing the shifter cables for either mech or Di2. Before I start actually purchasing parts I've got a few questions:


For those running Sram, do you use the "wide" crankset and FD? I don't think it's necessary but I'm tempted.

Has anyone purchased the airwolf carbon wheels? I'm looking at the 30mm version-not sure on depth yet. Any depth recs or other brands I should check out around the same price point?

From my understanding, I need to also purchase the Specialized SL7 compression cap and matching headset bearings. Is there anything else I must have to make the frame work? Is there anything else you recommend?

How long did shipping take for you? The website says 7-10 days but I refuse to put my hope in that.

I'm pretty psyched to get this thing built up and will hopefully post some pics of my progress.

Thanks!