The Starling Dive is a 26" dual suspension bike with modern geometry.

Also the Banshee Spitfire is designed to take 26" wheels.

You'd have to get a 142 thru axle rear wheel though.

Thanks for the detailed update, and even more thanks for putting in the time, effort and money to experiment for us all.

I'm ready to pounce on a 32" build, but it seems like the longer I wait the more options there will be. I'm also old (51) and have been mountain biking since 1990. I've seen how long, low and slack MTB's have become and it's taken me some time to get used to modern geometry.

All that said I recently sold both my hardcore hardtails (very long and very slack bikes). As much as I love the simplicity of a hardtail, the trails I love to ride are just way too rocky and technical to be taken at speed on a hardtail. Whilst a 32" hardtail is tempting I figure the extra rollover is not going to be enough for the kind of riding I like to do so I think I'll wait it out for a short travel dual suspension 32" trail bike. Will keep an eye out on your future projects!

Quote from: jefflinde on March 07, 2026, 09:00:28 AM
Major update!!  frame has arrived and is built up.  the ride is definitely different but i have not taken it anywhere besides the driveway so no way to tell how it actually handles on the trail.

It looks like you're using a very long stem and a massive stack of spacers too. In retrospect would you have changed the geometry of the frame?

Really cool. I've had my eyes on this since this was at a bike show.

Geo looks aggressive (long and slack). The welding on that ISCG mount for a bash guard looks really bad though (shame it's not got a third  hole too for a chain guard).

Also wish they didn't come with that logo/brand/YUEH on the downtube (can always paint the frame though I suppose).

A good friend of mine just finished his build:

Quote from: tovu on November 11, 2025, 04:25:03 PM
are those UD matte or UD paintless wheels? hard to choose when the glossy wheels look amazing as well

UD Paintless.

Quote from: ice29 on November 12, 2025, 12:12:07 PM
Why did you pick 5mm spokes? I want almost the same config, but can't decide whether to go for less-stiff superlight spokes, or 3.8mm or 5mm haha! (5mm look the best by far)

Because they look AMAZING!

Spent some time test riding a newly built size 52 X68 today. I brought my genuine S-Works SL8 (also size 52) along and did a fair few bike swaps to see if I could feel the difference.

Sadly I couldn't make an accurate comparison as the spec of both bikes are way different. I'm running SRAM Red E1 and he's running Wheeltop so the difference in hood/lever feel alone threw me off quite a lot (SRAM E1 levers just feel too good and being able to comfortably get all 4 fingers under the hoods makes a world of difference when sprinting out of the saddle IMHO).

We also had issues with the front derailleur cage hitting the crank arm due to flex when sprinting out of the saddle (sadly I scratched up his front mech!), but he managed to sort that out by tuning the Wheeltop during our ride.

Got to say, it's a fast bike. He did say multiple times that my bike felt like it rolled faster, but again, that could just be down to spec, specifically tyres as I'm running GP5000 TT TR's and he was running S TR's. That said he was running lighter ZEN Carbon Bike 50/50 deep wheels and I'm running CRW's 40/45's. Again, so much difference in spec, but no doubt about it, the X68 is a fast bike and it rides insanely good for the price, especially when you compare it to how much a genuine S-Works SL8 frameset costs.

50/60, 24mm IW, 5mm spokes, 16 hole front, 18 hole rear.

My 2nd set of XMCS wheels came in the mail today and weighed in at 1168g for the set.

No quality control issues at all. Super smooth edges both inside the rim bed and out. So happy to have my prefered Aero 111 front and TT TR rear tyre setup again. There were no issues with fitting tyres without levers and both wheels run true with tyres inflated to 60PSI.

I actually think the standard UD finish looks better on the bike too!

I've been updating the process of getting the wheels trued on Weight Weenies forum, but forgot about this thread too.

TLDR: Peter offered a new wheelset in the same specs but in UD Matte finish and I cover postage, to which I thankfully accepted.

Peter has been VERY responsive throughout all of this via WhatsApp and just confirming that I am very happy with the resolution and as I've mentioned to Peter I am now once again confident in his brand (and service).

Peter also has confirmed that he himself will inspect the wheelset and pack them himself too. I will, as usual, report back here and elsewhere on the new replacement wheelset with photos and more when they arrive.

OK guys just an update on my 50/60 XMCS wheelset. They came out of true. Rear wheel was only slightly out of true, the front had a huge death wobble, so far out of true that the bike was not rideable. I sent Peter a few videos and he agreed to pay for a local mechanic to true the wheels.

Not his wheels, not his problem, but Ben Caden of CADEN WHEELS gave me 3 hours of his time today to troubleshoot these wheels. He shot video of it all too, so expect that to be up on his channel soon (apologies in advance for being so flat in the videos, I had a big night on the drink last night!).

OK so this is what we found:

1) The wheels were not far off being true without the tyres on them. IE: The wheels are not strong enough, and with 60 psi in the tyres they go out of true.

2) Ben trued both wheels to perfection, then he had the idea to try clincher tyres instead of tubeless tyres as he said tubeless tyres create much more pressure. He stocks and backs Maxxis High Road SL tyres, a tyre I've always been curious about more for the light weight, but despite poor rolling resistance tests Ben says they roll fast so I'm more than willing to take his word and try them out.

3) Ben suggested a 25C front and 28C rear, but I thought I'd go 25C front and rear as I only ride this bike at Centennial Park (very smooth surface). Tyres went on SO much easier than the tubeless ready Aero 111 and GP5000 TT's. Tyres were inflated to 60 psi and both were put back on the trueing stand and guess what? Both wheels were quite true, not perfect, very slightly out of true, but no more huge death wobble on the front wheel.

4) Some more findings: You can quite easily squeeze the XMCS wheels with your fingers and see them deflect, Caden's wheels on the other hand I was not able to squeeze in at all, though he grabbed his wheel off me and squeezed very hard and said there still is some give if you squeeze hard enough. The rear wheel started making noises akin to Ocean Gate. IE: Carbon cracking noises when pumped up to high pressure to set the bead, freaky stuff, but the noise did stop. Make of that what you will.

5) Ben let me know that these wheels were not bad, and that he's seen worse from China. Some of the bladed carbon spokes aren't completely straight, but they use a T junction at the hub and cannot be turned at all, so nothing can be done to adjust them.

6) All this information was passed on to Peter, and he's offered me another wheelset at a heavily discounted price, but I fail to see how another XMCS wheelset would be any different (except for maybe better finishing quality which he's suggested was because I went for a custom polished finish vs. UD matte).

With the new tyres my Cervelo S5 now sits at 6.18kg's which I'm pretty happy about. I'm a little bummed the XMCS wheelset experience was much like the experience I had with the XMCS chainring (which is in my parts bin), but in this case I'm going to at least see how these wheels go before putting the ENVE 5.6 rear and Roval CLX II front wheel back on.

Quote from: coffeebreak on April 01, 2023, 06:39:13 AM
On the other hand it would be incredible fun to ride a fake Cervelo or Dogma and be faster than rich dentists on their 12k Pinarellos. Who's laughing now b*tch?

I read comments like this a lot, smells like insecurity to me!

Ever since getting into bikes (I'm 50 and have ridden bicycles my whole life) there's always been a few people (both men and now women) in my group of cycling friends who are stronger than me and it's never bothered me (it is what it is?!).

One guy in particular is way stronger than me and most likely always will be. He's got 20+ bikes and all of them are old rim brake bikes between $1-2K AUD. He did have a go at me when I bought my $20K AUD S-Works SL8 Tarmac, and went as far as saying that "it's not about the bike, it's about the rider". I just about had enough of his negative attitude towards my choice of buying an expensive bike that I forced him to swap shoes with me at the cafe (we run different pedals) and insisted that he have a go.

He was literally blown away. So much so that he put an order in for a TanTan SL8 copy.

I'm sure he'll be even faster on his TanTan and I'm happy for him. TLDR: If you're blowing the wheels off people with much more expensive bikes then maybe you're just stronger than they are, and maybe you'd thrash them even harder if you had a bike more expensive than theirs? Who cares!

On topic: I've got a whole lot of "cheaper" Chinese branded parts on my genuine S5. I posted it up in a Chinese bicycle Facebook group and got bombarded with PM's asking me where I got the frame from   

XMCS 50/60 wheelset.

Just a couple of logo concepts. Let me know what you guys think!

I'm a retired graphic designer Peter, and have gone all in on buying, building and riding bicycles in my retirement. That said. I'll work for beer, and since you can't send me beer. I'll work for a frame.

Coming up with the right logotype is essential for a brand. Invest early, get it right, because you're going to end up putting that brand on EVERYTHING; from business cards, to frames, cars and building signage, in advertisements and so on.

Some of my typographic logos are attached. It's NOT about just choosing a font. It's about customising a standard font to make it your own (which then prevents other people simply finding your font and using it and looking like your brand).