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Messages - obuwiecieplezimowe

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1
I recently scapped my Xcadey power meter and mounted another bulletproof Power2Max.

I dig a hole in a plastic cover of Xcadey. Twice. First time I got unstable offset and odd power values that turned out to be a crack that let moisture in. Repaired by an Xcadey dealer. Next time it was just a big hole that led to the same issue and at the end it just died. It was my newest power meter, the rest is just ancient now and works like day one.
I had several spider power meters, I treat every bike rather harsh and this happened only with this Xcadey. Twice! It's very, very fragile. One light rock hit and it's dead. It also showed around 10% more than my two Power2Maxes and a Quarq Dzero, but chinese app allows to adjust it so it's fine. All tested against the same turbo trainer, you can't directly compare multiple spiders :)
Charging port is also a fragile area. Anyway, you can look at my direct comparsion photo (attachment) and see it looks very thin and light in comparsion.
Chinese carbon is great but electronics is something I prefer to avoid. Xcadey was definitely an unsuccessfull experiment.


2
I disagree :P As a very short person riding very very small bikes set up aggressive as possible (as they are always too tall, never too low) toe overlap is only a theoretical problem. You can find it doing stupid things in parking. Never happen in real life, even almost standing still in the steepest mountains. Real problems are "too tall front end", "stupidly placed bottle cage screws", "horrific internal routing in smallest size", "stupid steerer tube diameter to not fit a stem and handlebars combo I want (Canyon)" etc. Not toe overlap.

I would not recommend any frame as all my road bikes were still rim brake. However look at geo, not advertisments. This Canyon in 3XS has really nothing that really differs it from an "aggressive" bike except it has maybe 20mm higher stack. And that's with assumption you are going to use zero stem spacers in any bike. Reach is really irrelevant when seated, effective top tube is. Head tube angle means nothing if you don't know fork rake also. And there is also nothing wrong with a short stem (like 70 or even 60mm) and a road bike so after all they are really not that different.

For example JH-33 (TFSA) looks nice for cheap frames. I use JH-02 now and it's fantastic and tiny, except my is a rim brake one.

3
I'll answer myself.

Analyzing photos I bought "Fraser" -40* 70mm, 720mm. From Ali of course.
I took some measurements and in comparsion to my setup (-18* low stack 60mm stem + 720mm pretty straight stick also 720mm) the difference in bar end position is...

X: 0mm +/-2mm
Y: 0mm +/- 2mm

No difference at all :) I will not even bother changing it, I'll just resale it.


4
Hi,

I'm about to finish building a new MTB bike. I'm small, bikes are small. But this one is 140/130mm full suspension and 29" wheels so I wonder if I can lower handlebars position even further than now to get more weight at front.

What I use is -18* 60mm stem and a straight handlebars without rise. This is from my old bike. The stem has a drop and is low stack so pretty low overall. Old photo of old bike zoomed-in (before cutting steerer) looked like this:


I beliver it's as low as you can go using a separate stem and handlebars. Now, can I actually make it even lower to get more weight on the front? What I found is this:

1) -40* Fraser. Shortest possible option is 70mm. Stem is higher stack but I really can't compare it except looking at photos. And it of course looks different from a different angle.
https://aliexpress.com/item/1005007211225673.html
2) Kocevlo something. -17* but low stack, there is "-12mm offset" which may be anything to me. Like drop in my stem. 0mm rise, can't really see that 0mm in pictures.
https://aliexpress.com/item/1005008175120795.html

Anyone has maybe a similar "problem"? :D And I haven't even ridden this bike yet.


5
Another Balogue / no name / generic whatever it is from Aliexpress.

Bought exactly here:

https://pl.aliexpress.com/item/1005009175061030.html

My version 70mm -17* weights exactly 116g. Without a top cap as far as I remember.

6
As an author of this topic I must say I bought another one over a year ago for my "terrain gravel" (2,25" tires, eagle drivetrain) and it's also perfect. But to the point. Earlier was mentioned horrible internal routing. I can confirm that again.

However I can also confirm, that it's possible to route the narrowest version thorough the handlebars, super short 70mm -17* stem with a drop, through headset in its lowest possible configuration (no spacers above cover) and 95mm head tube (TFSA JH-02 smallest size frame). And a rim brake. Plus old cable version of di2. And it works. No idea why but it works. PITA, not worth it. But doable. I'm also 100% sure you will not be able to do it with mechanical shifters. No way. It's horrible enough with di2. It looks like in this photo below. You can imagine where the cable housing goes. Shimano housing, not links as it would be even worse having to put all of the links inside I believe.




7
What rim brake calipers are those?

Planet-X, Fouriers or probably many more brands. A generic design.

8
Around 15-20 hours so far but including very steep mountains, flats, sprints, slow and fast rides. All fine I think. I especially love mountain descends on it.

And yes the clamping area is a bit narrow for some stems - I even have one very wide -17* drop bar stem that wouldn't fit, or just barely. But that stem is so ugly anyway it will always remain as a spare :)

I think for mechanical shifting (the same for my mechanical brakes) a link type housing is a must. I first tried to use standard cable housing, but except difficulties in routing it through the bar my rear brake spring has not enough force to fully return due to sharp curves. And I had to rewire all using liner + links type of housing. That was much easier to do and brakes works like a charm. But it rattles inside :)

And a fully internal routing should be easier as it's easier to reach that "back" port from handlebars to stem than those small crappy exit ones. I'll see when my new frame arrives so in a few weeks from now.

9
Finally I bought a different handlebars accidentally found on Ali. Also narrow, but with less flare and cheaper. First 3h ride on it so far. Feels ok, "relaxed" position looks definitely less relaxed but is as comfy as on wider bars. As I suspected standing sprints on hoods feels odd, but it is odd anyway :)

New frame hasn't been sent yet so tested in my own one.

One problem with this setup - cabling it is a total nightmare. But my case is really a worst case scenario - small frame, low stack, old 11s Shimano di2 setup, junction box in a bar end. This one except of very tight openings with little "steps" making routing more difficult doesn't have little holes inside drops for example. So cable must be routed to the top and then a sharp turn to shifter has to be made. Or you can simply drill that hole because why not :)

The handlebars is something bought in "EC90 bicycle store" on Ali, now 92 EUR, looks like this - I don't know if it is allowed to post links here but it will be easy to find if needed :) So dimensions, comparsion with "wide" 36cm one and on the bike. Weight of mine is 233g.





10
Thanks,

of course I have aero in mind but I also like to play with different toys. I tried to copy that kind of narrow position using my own bars and my prediction is it should be not only more aero but also sustainable for much longer. What may be tricky is something like 500W for 1 minute steep hill standing using these bars. Sounds like an adventure!

I have found several other stems on Ali, I have to check how that Specialized one looks like... after work :) But it looks like there are good fitting options - I only have to spend more than normally on Chinese stuff and that's it :D

EDIT: I see it's too much trouble with bike fit and not much to gain in terms of aesthetics. I knew that there is limited selection of components for internal routing but I didn't realize it's THAT limited :)

So, I think it's just better to use just normal stem whatever I like, even a crazy low stack -20* MTB one if I want, put cables between handlebars and the frame below the stem (also neat) and just use a proper headset cover with a hole in it for the cables. As simple as that. I hope :)


11
Hi,

first post here but not my first Chinese bike :)

I've order TFSA JH-02 recently - so a rim brake frame with internal routing. In my present bike (Elves Vanyar or Airwolf or whatever name it) I use a Toseek 360x70 cockpit combo. So 360mm wide both tops and drops, 70mm stem, 75mm handlebar reach, -8* stem angle. Low 6mm headset cover - routed externally. Not perfect, but not bad either.

So I can use it again (easy option, only different headset cover) or build something a bit different. To the point:

I found on Aliexpress a Bikedoc HB24 handlebar. It is in narrowest option 340mm in drops and 280mm tops - with a flare. Reach is fine 79mm. A bit pricey for a Chinese product but I found nothing similar so it's fair enough.
But that way I would also need a stem (and out-front computer mount to the stem) and there I see a problem - I only found a few stems that allows internal routing through the stem. They are either expensive as hell, with little legative angle (bad thing - higher bars) or with a necessary super-special-spacer that adds stack. Or all that combined.

So - are there any decent stems for internal routing? Ideally 70-80mm, -17* (or -12, but definitely not -6 or 0), lowest stack possible. I am short, always using smallest size frame (and most is too large anyway so there is a very limited selection) so I don't want to rise my handlebars. My bike  has to be fast and in my case lower is faster :)

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