Same seller has also a Colnago Y1RS copy? Not a good look imo

SRAM has a 4x AXS battery charger which is fairly useful if you have a bike with multiple batteries (ex. rear derailleur, dropper, or even Flight Attendant suspension) and is the only one they make with USB-C.
The only issue is that it costs more than 100 euro:
https://www.sram.com/en/sram/models/ep-eac-bc4p-a1

Considering even some top Anker PC chargers cost less, I have looked around AliEx and found this interesting product:
https://it.aliexpress.com/item/1005010342871364.html



Unfortunately it has a proprietary magnetic charger on one side (and USB on the other) but it as two interesting features:

• Modular design - Up to 4 chargers can be combined together
• Charging display (but based on the description it might be not reliable)

Attaching 4 of these together would cost half than the SRAM version.

But the real question is: has anyone ever used this kind of products?

I've tried searching here and on the web but I mainly see feedback about chinese AXS batteries (which are always described as having shorter life), not chargers.

It almost looks like the Light Carbon LCSF980 (also used by the Trinx MTB team) but I think there are some small differences here and there

Also similar to the Hongfu FM358 (Lux Trail copy) but not identical either

I still haven't had any issues (so far) with the Rpantahi integrated handlebar that I bought to replace the stock Tantan one, if anyone is looking around for other brands.

Quote from: Raficheq on January 07, 2026, 12:55:51 AM
Have any of you covered your bike with PPF foil? Where can I buy cut foil patterns for our GR201?

I've used the Zefal Skin Guard.
Just need to make sure to pick the right version based on the frame painting (matte or gloss)

Quote from: Grassr00ts on December 06, 2025, 12:37:07 AM
Thanks. I tried that and that indeed made the fit snug, it felt normal then, couldn't rock it anymore, even when not clamped down. So non issue then i suppose.. Do you know if the loose fitting seatpost is by design? With other carbon frames and round seatposts i worked on the seatpost fit snug without carbon paste.

No I don't think so, maybe it's just a combination between the seatpost and/or the seat tube being minimally out of tolerance.
But it's a fairly known thing with carbon bikes in general, so I wouldn't put it against this bike specifically, at least for this type of issue.

Make sure to check the situation again after the first few rides though, as it's also not that unusual to get the seatpost slipping mid ride due to the clamping bolt getting slightly looser (never happened to me to be fair).

I know XCADEY gets a fairly decent feedback online, but I've had a bad experience a few years ago with one of their cadence sensor: it was slightly slower at calculating than the Garmin one I bought after, it was consuming the CR2032 batteries abnormally, and it died after a few months, not really a good experience lol.

Sigeyi is slightly more trustable, I've never used it personally but a couple friends had them on their road bikes and were satisfied with them.

Within the European market, I can also give good feedback to InPeak (polish brand, also used to sponsor Wilier Vittoria a few years ago iirc).
I had their left crank only option in the XT version.

I'll get slightly off topic but in my opinion the absolute best option in the MTB market are the pedal based power meter. It costs more but you'll have peace of mind that it'll work with any type bike or crankset. Otherwise you'll always have to swap out parts or be conditioned by the PM compatibility.

Quote from: Grassr00ts on December 05, 2025, 01:04:50 AM
Hi everyone. I received my frame from Long Teng, everything looked good, except that the seatpost was quite loose in the seattube, I can drop it in the seattube, there is no friction. And when holding it by hand without clamping it i can rock it slightly. When fastened it did feel tight though. Should i be worried about this?
I was wondering how this was with your frames. Thanks.

It's not that uncommon with carbon seatposts vs carbon frames.
Did you try already with carbon paste? I wouldn't make an assessment until you tried that (which is normal practice anyway)

Quote from: impmonkey on November 27, 2025, 06:27:25 PM
Link for this one? Looked for one but only found ones without flare.
Thanks!

There are two versions as far as I know, they do have some designs differences (main one being the method used for the computer mount attachment, 2 bolts vs 1)

• https://a.aliexpress.com/_EywGdMU
• https://a.aliexpress.com/_EIL2jYM

I got the first one. They both have a 2cm flare between hoods and drops. I don't think it is always mentioned, so at the time I got the info from the guys already using it at my cycling club.

If you mean gravel frames, look wise the GR201 / Noah is the closest thing imo.

Geometry wise they have similar wheelbase and stack/reach, but the Mog has a sloping top tube compared to the GR201 that's almost straight.

If you're really after a 29er, I doubt you'll find something close to it. Maybe some old hard tail frame but it'll surely have a longer wheelbase imo

Quote from: SunnyShore on September 17, 2025, 03:34:03 AM
I'm getting some annoying vibration on the front while braking with the front brake.
I've also checked it at home and there seems to be some small play between the fork tube and the head tube that I cannot get rid of.

When I overtighten the top cap bolt, I do feel some slight improvement, but I still feel the vibrations, plus getting the preload to 6-7nm doesn't seem like a very smart long term solution for the fork's health.

Could it have something to do with the headset bearings (all stuff from Tantan)? Did anybody have a similar issue?

I can confirm I've solved this issue by changing the integrated cockpit with another brand.
The issue was 100% related to the stock C-ring that came with the Tantan aero cockpit.
Thanks again to you guys who gave me the correct advice about it.

For the new one, I didn't go with the Lexon gravel bars (which are popular around here) since I didn't like the huge flare.
Instead I went for the Rpantahi (still flared, but just a couple CMs) since it got a lot of positive feedback from other riders in my cycling club.
The price was quite good (around 90 euro) the quality imo was slightly better than the Tantan one, and so far it has proven to be rock solid even on light MTB routes.

The Rpantahi came with two different C-rings, one was plastic with a few holes and one was made out of metal with the classic C shape. I've risked it with the metallic one, but I guess the quality on this one is higher since this time I had no tolerance issues.

I've had it for more than a month, but I only wanted to give a feedback after I was sure about its quality.

The LCFS980 design is also "race-tested" since it's basically the same bike used by the Trinx Factory team in the XC WC races. I have no idea which one came first though (or if one is just rebranding the other).

Is this the only chinese XC / downcountry frame with an internal storage on the downtube?

I've tried to search around but couldn't find anything else

Quote from: Uberflo on September 17, 2025, 09:07:58 AM
I suppose it is the same. So, I assume that you have an alloy C ring? If it is the case, it is certainly out of tolerance leading to your issue.

Based on previous comments I thought it was different tbh, but yes I did get and use a C Ring made out of metal, which I guess it's of remarkable quality

Any suggestions for a replacement? Quality brands and what's the specific size to get

Quote from: Uberflo on September 17, 2025, 04:12:22 AM
Which handlebar are u using?

The stock Tantan cockpit

Which apparently is slightly less shitty than the one supplied by Tideace?