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Messages - FredericksSirvelo

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Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Mini Velo
« on: October 21, 2024, 06:40:25 PM »
Can i ask what's the point of these? same as brompton bikes? like commuting and running errands?

They’re a funny breed of bike haha. Smaller, more portable than a regular size bike. Quicker acceleration because of the 20 inchers. Most ride very similarly to regular bikes but better than Bromptons. They look cute and fit better in an apartment. But I wouldnt use one as my only bice.

Ive had a design ive been slowly working on in CAD for the better part of a year. My goal is to make one that fits in a suitcase like Firefly did, but with more attachments for cargo and hopefully full drop bars. Crust also showed a similar prototype they called the “Stupid Tourist”

The plan is to use a Ritchey Breakaway style connector up top with a Santana Z coupler down below. I have also need to figure out what I am going to use between EKAR + a chinese carbon crank and a dynamo hub or an apex AXS group and battery lights. I am leaning towards the latter honestly, but its also not a priority to have built since I have no plans unique to this bike

I’m in!! Would you make the frame or send it to a Ti manufacturer?

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Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Mini Velo
« on: October 19, 2024, 07:56:49 PM »
My newest N+1 infatuation is mini-velo bikes. Has anyone encountered an inexpensive Chinese frame? Thanks in advance  8)

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I took the hanger/RD off yesterday. The good news is I can (with significant force) rotate the hanger. It can’t do a full rotation because it’s a bit of a longer guy, would bump into the RD. In addition I think I’m missing something conceptually. The bolt isn’t threaded into the RD itself, is it? The threads only interact with the hanger. So spinning the hanger wouldn’t even loosen the RD.

 I like the idea of tapping the backside!

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Still trying to figure out how to remove the derailleur from the hanger. What I tried yesterday was tapping out a thread, inserting a bolt with red loctite, and trying to unthread both once the loctite cured. Unfortunately, the silver but just unthreaded from the derailleur bolt. I’m trying again with more loctite and liberal usage of WD-40 around, but I’m not optimistic about attempt #2.

From what I understand, my next and probably last option is to drill all the way through the bolt, trying to maintain the threads on the hanger but buying a new one if necessary. Does anyone have another idea before I try the nuclear option?

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A drilled hole extends about 13mm down into the bolt.  I believe it is about 5mm in diameter.  If I can't purchase a new one.  I will attempt to tap the hole with the closest metric fine thread.  Then I will take a button head screw with either a torx or Alan head and thread the screw down into the hole using either Loctite red or epoxy. (I probably will use either a stainless screw, or Titanium if I can find one I like.

When you go to remove yours, try to extract it using only the stripped hex area.  This will preserve the rest of the hole that you might be able to tap per my approach stated above.

I'm trying your method with red loctite! Super ugly bodge solution with the cheap tap set I found at a hardware store today, but I'm very hopeful. I'll update tomorrow with results.

Good news.   Jerry at XZX components now has the bolt available to order on their web site.   (I wrote him a couple of days ago and he looked into the bolt's availability.)
I will order a few of them in the next few days.

https://xzxcomponents.com/products/replacement-derailleur-hanger-bolt

That's incredible news! Are you in the US? If so, would you be interested in ordering an extra and mailing it to me? I'll contribute to the international shipping of course.

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Thanks for the measurements! Wheeltop just replied to me; all they said is it’s an M10 bolt haha. Update on the extraction: the kit I bought didn’t work. The extraction bolts couldn’t get any purchase unto the soft metal. Now I’m trying to super glue an Allen key into the bolt. Let me know if you all have any other ideas.

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Thanks for the pics!! Would you be willing to measure the length of the bolt minus the threads? Rookie mechanic here, first time using a torque wrench. (Also bought an Ali wrench). So I totally over torqued it. Doesn’t help that the bolt is so soft :’)

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Will do! I ordered a generic bolt, we’ll see if it’s long enough. I also emailed Wheeltop so update when they respond.

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Goofed a bit. I overtorqued the rear derailleur and stripped the m5 part of the bolt. I'm going to use an extraction kit to remove the bolt, but what do I do from there? As in what replacement bolt should I order? or how do I fix this lol. Thank you in advance!

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Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: New frame: Longteng RD301-D
« on: September 21, 2024, 11:42:09 AM »
With regards to that picture with the gravel tires, I don’t think that’s the same frame as the LT 301D. It’s missing the Trek-like ridge on the head tube and it looks like it has a round seat post. I noticed that when I visited the TanTan website and 301 listing. But Maza is right. I’m wondering if we could ask the Longteng rep for the semi internally routed headset/spacers or just purchase them ourselves.

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Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Workswell Frames
« on: September 11, 2024, 12:28:54 AM »
Disclaimer: I haven't bought my first Chinese frame yet but aiming to do so by the end of the year. From what I've gathered, I'll try and organize from least to most reputable. I'll delete the ones I don't know.

Airwolf (from what I've heard, garbage)
TanTan (fine frames, bad customer service)
Toseek (didn't know they make frames, but their carbon Ali stuff is generally well-reviewed)
Velo Build (fine, quality varies. Apparently getting better)
Light carbon
Longteng (I think the sweet spot between quality and price. I'm shooting to get the 301-D)
Dengfu
Hongfu
Yoleo (expensive)
Elves
BXT (boring frames)
Carbonda
Yishunbike
Og Evkin
Ican
Seka (almost completely legit now)
Polygon (graduated to a legit western company at this point)

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