Consider asking your local carbon artisan to fix it for you or look for frames with the same seatpost (it is really happens very often) and contact the brand for a spare part.

Quote from: simonstucki on October 25, 2026, 01:49:51 PMHi everyone, this is my first post!

I'm building up a new gravel bike and I'm desperately looking for a light carbon crank with a 24mm titanium axle and a sram 3 or 8 bolt interface (because for Cinch there doesn't seem to exist any oval aero direct mount chainrings, if there exists such a chainring please let me know, I'd probably go with a Cybrei or Overfast crankset) and the only one I found is the Wuzei and this Bigrock one.
The Wuzei sometimes seems to have some creaking issues and I can't really find much more about the Bigrock except for this thread.
So how is this crankset holding up? Any issues?

Thanks!

Over 13k on my road bike with BigRock crankset. No issues and rock solid, you need to tinker with alignment a bit but this is only part of the initial setup. Also notice I used custom made Ti bolt instead of alloy one. Another 3 bolt option is the crankset from Kore. I have it on my gravel bike, same rock solid performance.

Apparently this power meter will get better only with at least two digits PP

Quote from: Bonus79 on October 12, 2026, 09:28:49 AM
I'm also getting interested in riser handlebars...putting ergonomics and geometry aside, what I'd really like to know is whether there's any difference in terms of feel and bike handling compared to a traditional handlebar...I haven't read anything about those aspects yet.

Nothing in the realms of crazy changes, but when considering HTA, you will slightly increase total reach comparing with fork spacers as the latter tends to decrease it from a declared frame geometry chart.

Coming from flat cockpit to LCR017 minus one spacer, I did not notice the difference. On the other hand, the steering and weight balance feels funky when you have to many spacers (in my case - extra 20 mm to the established fit).

It is alloy axle...

Quote from: AdmannSackberger on September 25, 2026, 04:51:17 AM
Nice build, man!
I almost gave up on this frame for an 80/20 road/gravel build because of the 46T limit, but your post gives me hope.
Could you maybe check the gap between your 48T ring and the chainstay (e.g. which size Allen key fits through)? Or post a picture of the space thats left?

I'd love to know if a 50T or even 52T would really clear it, or if anyone else has tried running one on this frame?

The clearance fits 6 mm Allen key so 50T will surely have enough space. The crankset is Kore with Ti axle, with the chainline in the middle of the cassette.

Build's finished. Already got around 300 km on the bike. After trying friend's FM316 Size M I opted for size L and bought extra FM336 fork to compensate for the quirks I did not like steering-wise.
- 2.1 Thunderburts measured as 54 mm on super wide Tagoola wheels fit without issues in moderate mud, although sensitive to the rear wheel alignment. The fork can clean 2.4 easily. For very muddy conditions I would put 50mm on the back.
- Managed to get fit right from the first try - the bike welcomes you into aero tuck which is very easy to maintain thanks to quite high stack and long reach. Still experimenting with lever position and spacers, though.
- It is also very forgiving on rough terrain and steep descends. Bike handles very well and quite stable over single track ruts and eroded soil. Coming from pure bred CX bike where you may be thrown over the handlebars on steep descends it is night and day difference in offroad confidence. The low speed steering is also well preserved and I don't feel like I have to overcompensate in sand or tight turns. Seems like extra 5mm rake from FM336 fork really helps.
- On the road it is VERY fast. Cant compare objectively, as I don't have a power meter on the gravel bike, but for perceived RPE and HR in Z2 it is only 1-2,5 kph slower than my very fast road bike on my usual flat routes even without adjusting pressure on MTB tires.
- 48T chainrings fits without issues. Considering the available space, one could probably fit 52T and convert it into the progressive fit road bike
- It is stiff enough. Apart from squeaky tires I don't feel excessive flex in BB or fork
- The internal storage compartment DOES NOT rattle. On the other hand, friend's storage is noisy so he has to ducktape it. Maybe they changed something in construction, but I have no complaints so far. It is very small, though - no fit for electric pump, but just fine for dynaplug, spare tube and other tiny bits and pieces.

So far it is amazing. I genuinely like pretty much everything and think this is very successful frame, especially if you want to try something something else than another beaten up gravel bike which is the same as the others.

Quote from: Corex on September 15, 2026, 06:23:10 PM
Put in an order with Jack last week after a year of no riding since my CWind GT30 was stolen, looking forward to a new build! Originally ordered the FM336 but swapped to FM326 after wanting more relaxed/bikepacking orientated geo, hence the mockup paintjob being the FM336.

$1400 NZD ($817 USD) for frame+handlebars+seatpost+paint+shipping to NZ. I asked Jack if they would also paint the handlebar (wanted to paint stem but he said it's integrated) and seatpost and he said they could. Never had a painted seatpost or handlebar so curious to see how it goes, guessing I'll just sand down the post so it fits into the frame.

Jack didn't mention anything about fork selection so I assume 420 is the default?

FM316 is the frame with short A-C fork and FM326 is the frame with long A-C fork (420)

Anyone can tell me how to properly tighten the 8-bolt interface spider? There is no threads on the crank... Or the spider is supposed to be hold in place by the pressure between the crank and spindle?

Quote from: ZacItaly15 on August 24, 2026, 04:07:37 AM
what is the perfect balance between weight/cost/function in the 11 speed di2 groupset (105/Ultegra/DA)?

It seems that the Ultegra shifter are identical to DA (button/reach) and you can save 20g with titanium aftermarket brackets.
The from mech seems to be DA/ultegra identical
The rear mech are internally identical DA/Ultegra (motor/gear) but the 50g difference?

12 speed maybe? I went for Ultegra derailleurs (better shifting and substantially less weight) and 105 levers+brakes (no benefits apart from hood buttons). As for the rest, aftermarket cranks and rotors are better than what you get from a full groupset. Dura ace chain (fastest) and cassette is a go to if you prefer hot waxing.

Quote from: GLTRV on August 14, 2026, 12:10:37 PM
I placed an order on Panda Podium. I'll compare my unit with my Tacx Neo 2T once received to provide a second test backed with data.

The p2max is more than 2x the price for me. At that point I'd get Assiomas.

Are you in Asia? NGeco costs 340 EUR incl VAT. which is very competitive for a confirmed bullet proof double side powermeter (Hello Quarq with a single side measurement PM in the spindle)

Quote from: Takiyaki on August 15, 2026, 09:11:22 AM
First of all, lol @ this frame. Not because it's bad, but because it's just kind of funny at how unoriginal these companies are getting. At least they are copying stuff we want.

I do feel like these offset seatpost frames require a rethink on how geometry is calculated. Most frames have a vertical BB offset. I think it's time to start counting horizontal BB offset from the seat post axis and rethinking stuff like STA, TTL, maybe even reach to be honest. Because where this geometry chart says your saddle is going to be and where it's actually gonna be are super different. I would not be surprised if we were talking about saddles being like 30-50mm more forward than the charts would indicate which obviously impacts fit, handling etc. Biggie is shortened effective reach. Other stuff like hip angle will be impacted too. So you would have to do another level of geometric analysis to truly transfer your fit 1:1. And it's possible the geometry of these offset seatpost frames will require a total rethink of fit.

True, although steeper STA should be accompanied with substantial increase in reach across all sizes to prevent sitting to far over handlebarsand excessive load on arms. So far, progressive geometry is still (and probably will be) a very niche stuff.

Don't want to sound like a paid influencer, but at this price point why not get p2max? Any interface you want, 2 years warranty, produced in Europe and reliable as a swiss watch.

Quote from: redpx on August 12, 2026, 05:26:55 PM
I'm in the final stages of putting together my order from LightCarbon and wanted to get your opinion before I pull the trigger.

My old bike was a Bergamont Grandurance RD7 in size 58, which actually fit me quite well. However, it was more of a commuter bike rather than a proper endurance bike.

I've now decided to go with the LCR-018D in size 54. For the handlebar, I'm planning to use a 400 x 100 mm setup (400 mm handlebar width / 100 mm stem).

A bit about me:

Height: 180 cm
Inseam: 82 cm
Shoulder width: 40 cm

My old bike also had a 400 mm handlebar with a 100 mm stem, which felt quite comfortable for me.

Do you think this setup makes sense for my measurements and the LCR-018D in size 54? I'd really appreciate hearing another opinion before I place the order.

Hard to tell how correct my assumption is, as I don't know you body measurements and lower threshold of comfortable fit, but this is very extreme size swap. If you are comfortable on Bergamont and want a bit racier feel, get size 56. Size 54 will require monstrous stem and a Jenga of spacers, or else you're gonna sit like a shrimp which will be neither fast nor comfortable.

Quote from: antoinesbikes on August 06, 2026, 05:59:29 PM
Hey All,

Planning to build a 1x gravel bike around the new Force XPLR groupset, but I am not sure what chinese carbon cranks would work with DUB Wide since most of them are built with a road-width Q-factor and spindle length. Can I simply just add spacers to the drive side to get the 47.5mm chainline? Anyone have any photos of chinese cranks on their SRAM XPLR bikes? Any help would be appreciated, thanks!

This is what I intend to do. I bought KORE crankset with 24 mm axle (road). Depending on the final setup I will a) add spacers to the axle; b)change the position of the chainring b) add spacers to chainring bolts