CS-496 Build / 27.5+

[Carbon_Dude]

I wonder if Peter sent you a Boost 148 axle.  Looks like you've got about an extra 3mm per side (142+3+3=148).

[SportingGoods]

That's my next plan, washers. But I've emailed Peter to ask him what he thinks, if there is anything missing. Washers will work but I'd like to understand where the problem comes from! And people who will buy this frame will want to know upfront what to expect.

I can still true my wheel, I don't even need the axle for that, the frame upside down holds the hub in place.

@Carbon_Dude I had missed your message! Yes it is a Boost axel  , the frame and hub are Boost. I measured the Hub, 148 mm.

[Carbon_Dude]

Okay, then is it a 157x12mm fatbike axle?  I bet that's it.

[carbonazza]

Get some washers to fill the gap?

Will not this cause either a chainline issue or the disc being hardly aligned with the caliper?

[SportingGoods]

No it would not, because the washers would be on the outside of the frame.

I'll measure the total length of the axle tonight, I suspect that CD is right, it is most likely an axle for 157 hub. There is a lot more then 2 mm. The 2 mm is the minimum to start clamping the hub but there is a lot more over what it should be.

EDIT: my axle is 185 mm from the flat of the nut (in contact with the frame) to the end of the threaded section of the axle
And Peter got back to me that it's Autumn holidays for the next 3 days. So he'll check a little later what's going on.
Checking axles from other vendors it looks like Boost axles are shorter then mine (at least 3 mm shorter)

[SportingGoods]

Wheel is true and tensioned. I'm very happy with the results. It was a lot easier and faster then the first set of wheels that I've built! Experience comes fast

Read Derailleur is in place as well as cable hose. Not difficult to get it through the frame. Now I need to buy some tape to mount my Tubeless tires. I was almost done when... I reached the end of the roll 

[carbonazza]

Nice!

Now I need to buy some tape to mount my Tubeless tires. I was almost done when... I reached the end of the roll 

You should try the rims without holes next time.
Playing with a magnet to get the nipple out is a very small part of the building job.

[SportingGoods]

I don't plan buying rims anytime soon! So I'll wait for my tape to arrive

I have also ordered something I had missed: Shelter protection tape. I would not ride my carbon bike even once w/o it. I've had severe rock hit in the downtube of my FR-202 and it is in perfect condition. It is not a regular tape, it really protects. It's not easy to find. Found it cheap here:
http://26bikes.com/shop/accessories/frame-protectors/prod/shelter

I'm still waiting for a stunning deal on Eagle Boost cranks... Once the bike is completed I'll buy whatever the cheapest is. But I'd love to get it below 300€ (which is already too expensive, but I can't picture myself buying GX cranks with such a perfect bike).

Oh, one point I forgot to mention in my previous post: before installing the RD I made sure to align the hanger. I bought a tool some time ago and don't regret it, it is critical for a good shifting to get this hanger perfectly aligned.


EDIT: Now I know there is something missing around the axle and I know it is INSIDE the frame. See that the wheel can't turn as the disc bolts hit the brake mount. This shows there should be something, a piece of metal, in between the disc side of the hub and the frame... Not good. I stop messing with this wheel till I hear from Peter what is missing. I had failed to move the caliper mount, now that it is done the bolts are fine, but the axle still too long.



And now another thing I don't really like. The recess for the top bearing of the headset is neither deep enough nor level. I bought the headset from Peter to make sure it fits! Bearing is about 2 mm larger then the recess (and I use no shim). And you can see that the rear of the recess is not as deep as the front. This will catch mud 



A couple more picture. The wheel with the GIANT cassette



The current status of my bike!

[Carbon_Dude]

Personally, I wouldn't be happy about the way the top side of the headset is protruding from the frame.  If it's not level, will the bars even turn smoothly?  Can you get a shorter bearing so at least the gap isn't so bad?

[SportingGoods]

I have worked some more on the bike this morning. First, it was a false assumption that the axle washer needs to be inside the frame. I had failed to move the brake caliper mount (remember, you can change the chainstay length). So, the axle is still too long but we are back to the original case: need washer outside the frame or a shorter axle.

Now, the headset. A couple more pictures. Yes I could use smaller bearing, but I'm not sure it exists! Then, it is also the split ring that comes on top/inside that is very tall. I might switch it with my road bike and see if it does not cause problem. But still it is tilted, and you can see that the tilt comes from the finish of the frame.





Now, next problem  . I have spent 2 hours to get the brake line routed inside the frame. Not successful for now! There is a kink in the BB that the line needs to take, and it doesn't! I managed to get a derailleur cable through but I have to pull so strongly on it that the brake line is disconnected from the cable. My next option is to drill a hole in the brake line to get the cable securely attached. I tried to remove everything (seatpost, fork) to see/do something but it's completely inaccessible. I get enough for now. I need a brake break

I'm back. I was right about the split ring. See how the one I got with the CS-496 is tall compared to the one on my road bike (a Neco too). What matters is the top part of the ring (the lower part goes inside, so it doesn't matter).



Now the tall one is on my road bike. I removed the shim but it's still too high. But I'll call that good till I find another split ring similar to the thin one! I haven't put back the fork on the MTB, I need to work out the rear brake line first... It should still look a bit better!

[SportingGoods]

I thought I had faced rough challenges with my road bike. I had not. Now that I have faced that rear brake line routing problem I can face the world 

So... I have reached my limit. I have tried E.V.E.R.Y.T.H.I.N.G. The hose would not go through. Extreme problem calls extreme solution. I have drilled the inner routing and got my hose out! Pushing from the rear, the line would go through and get out in the front tube, but NOT in the routing sleeve, so it was accessible for a "personal re-routing".



With some silicon to seal it from dust and water.



And now drying using my shoe dryer (because I'm going mad at waiting for this brake to be fixed, so it'd better be fixed quick!!) 



See this nice cable routing  That's where you don't want to forget to go through that piece of plastic. My wife would have to call the hospital to calm me down if that was to happen   



I'm off now... till it's dry!

[SportingGoods]

Now that the rear brake line is fixed, assembly moves fast.

The low profile split ring on the top headset bearing did wonders. I really need to find another one for my road bike. See how the gap is closed now. You can still see a little the tilt, but it's OK.



I can now list what is to be done:
- bleed rear brake (really full of air now)
- adjust rear derailleur
- Mount tires (still waiting for the tape for rear wheel)
- Apply Shelter protection tape (to come with tubeless tape order)
- buy BB and cranks   

So, it's getting really close to completion now.

One more thing: Dropper post. I have 3 options, undecided yet.
1) Keep my regular Reverb and route the cable externally with jagwire stick-on (similar to my previous bike). Cost 0€.
2) Buy a new long hose and route it "semi-internally". Keep it outside on the seat tube and get internal in the down tube. Cost 18€. Routing is split anyway, "up in the air" between seat tube and down tube, like the RD cable.
3) Sell my Reverb and buy a Reverb Stealth. Cost probably about 100-150€.

[Carbon_Dude]

Looks much better now that you have fixed the headset and cable routing.

[SportingGoods]

Good news, I've received feedback from Peter (from Vegas ), there is nothing missing on my frame (he showed me pictures of what it should be, it's just like my frame). This makes things simple: my axle is too long.

I'd like to get back to the rear brake internal routing. You know that the frame comes with some white plastic tube inside the routing sleeves. My take is that the plastic is there when they install the sleeves in the frame. The reason I think so is that it would have been impossible to install this tube in my rear brake line otherwise. Removing this tube was difficult, I could feel strong resistance. This tells me there was a kink in the sleeve. A derailleur cable could go through but a hose would have never made it through.
Anyway, that problem is solved.
My problem could easily be an isolated problem. It doesn't mean that people will face the same issue, I was probably unlucky there was a kink in the sleeve.

[SportingGoods]

Getting close!!

I've received my delivery from Poland (26Bikes.com). So I have taped my rear wheel and mounted the tire, Nobby Nic 2.8. I've adjusted the RD too.
Also, I've processed with some measurements. Here is a summary:
- Head Angle is 68.5° with my "old" 110 mm fork. Now I plan on 130-140 mm (Pike).
- BB height: about 30.6mm. There is indeed room to increase the fork travel a bit!
- Disc side chainstay clearance: 11 mm. That's plenty with a real 2.8 tire.
- Drive side chainstay clearance: 15 mm. That's because of the high position of the drive side chainstay.
- Seat tube clearance: an amazing 3 cm. They could have shortened the chainstay even more (and I use the short setting at 425 mm).

Pictures now!
Disc side clearance


Drive side clearance


Seat tube clearance


BB height


Bike! See the quality of the details with the tire aligned with the valve 



What is missing:
- rear brake bleed
- apply protection tape (received)
- buy BB/crankset. I'm decided with Eagle, GXP, Boost. Yes, it's very expensive but I really can't see a GX here. I get 10% in one of my usual shop, on my anniversary, early October.
- Fix the dropper post hose with stick-on jagwire. I've opted for the cheapest option for now.
- Waiting for feedback from Peter on the rear axle (I've added 5 mm of washers for now, but can't be a permanent solution!).