Author Topic: 14" 26er FM-M001 build  (Read 64236 times)

bxcc

Re: 14" 26er FM-M001 build
« Reply #45 on: April 19, 2018, 07:20:36 AM »
So for anyone looking for a fork for this frame, I have a RS Sid RL 27.5" 100mm travel Boost 15x110 axle for sale. It's brand new and in the retail box with stealth decals, two tokens, and a star nut. The axle to crown measurement is only 10mm longer than a 100mm 26" fork so it won't mess with the geometry of this bike much. I'm putting one on my daughters frame and I'll post up some pictures once it's installed.
« Last Edit: May 30, 2018, 10:02:34 AM by bxcc »

flynmoose

Re: 14" 26er FM-M001 build
« Reply #46 on: July 24, 2018, 08:02:07 AM »
Hey BXCC

If you are still monitoring this thread, I have a question.

You mention putting 27.5 hoops on at some point.  Are the chainstays long enough on this frame to support 650B?  This is what I have been thinking of doing as well.  I have a couple of sets of Crest hoops in 26 - so was going to put my daughter on this frame and then grow her up to 650B. 

I had been looking at the 15.5 frames that are marketed as 650B but I thought it would be a bit tall for her for a while.


bxcc

Re: 14" 26er FM-M001 build
« Reply #47 on: July 24, 2018, 11:40:50 AM »
Yup, I’m still here. If you can give me a couple of days, I can check for you. I can pull the rear wheel off of my other daughters bike, I’ll just have to swap end caps to make sure it lines up correctly.

How tall is your daughter? My first thought would be that when she is ready for 27.5” wheels, the frame will already be a bit cramped for her. My oldest is 5 foot even and fits great on the 15.5” frame from Peter at XMCarbonspeed.

flynmoose

Re: 14" 26er FM-M001 build
« Reply #48 on: August 01, 2018, 11:52:13 AM »
So here is where I'm at:

9.5 year old daughter has been riding a Marin 13" frame 24" wheelset for about 18 months.  She hasn't REALLY outgrown it but the 24" wheels are really starting to impact her riding compared to her peers.  She raced CX on a 24" CX frame last year and wants to race again this year but on a MTB instead of a CX bike.

So - I would like to build her a new bike as light or lighter than my previous build on the Marin (~23lbs).  Have looked at the FM-M001 frame and it would certainly fit the bill but have also looked at a FM-M009 27.5 in 15" frame.  I have some 26" Crest hoops that I plan on using to build Triplet laced wheelset for her.

By my calculations - this would put the standover height at around 26-27" (1/3 way up top tube) with 26" wheels and closer to 28.5" with 650B.   Effective Top Tube length is 30mm longer (about an inch) so she would probably be a "little" more stretched out but probably manageable with short stem and zero offset post.

Here are her stats:
Height: 58" (147cm)
Sternal Notch: 47" (119cm)
Inseam (cycling): 28" (71cm)
Trunk: 17" (43cm)
Forearm: 10" (25cm)
Arm: 19" (48cm)
Thigh: 18" (46cm)
Lower leg: 19" (48cm)

I would expect she will grow 1-1.5" in the next year based on her growth curve and her older brother's heights (she has bee taller than both of them at every milestone and 14 y.o. is now 5'10")

Is it worth it to bother with a 650B frame in hopes of putting larger hoops on later? (Seems like this frame and 650B would easily get her to 5'2" without being to jammed up?)
Will 26" wheels on the 650B frame mess up the rideability considerably?
She is going into 4th grade - so she has 2 years before she starts riding on our NICA team. Am I fooling myself to think she could ride this bike (assuming built in the next 6 months) in the Spring of 2021?

Nothing can be transferred from the 24" and I will probably hand that down to one of the other neighborhood girls. 

I'm sort of using the TrailCraft Timber 1x top build as a benchmark.  With a lightweight aluminum frame and wheelset - they claim 21.75lbs for a 26" bike.  But I think I can build it for less than $2300 using Chinese Carbon, hand built wheels etc.

thesmokingman

Re: 14" 26er FM-M001 build
« Reply #49 on: August 01, 2018, 05:24:20 PM »
Your kid is 4'8 so she will fit this frame w/o issue. My kid switched to a larger frame around 5'2 iirc. He went thru a couple NICA seasons with it. And as far as Trailcraft, you can easily beat them at the game with this frame. Here is my sons retired FM001 which weighed 22.5lbs with dropper.



When he outgrew that we went FS with a FM076.


ldavies

Re: 14" 26er FM-M001 build
« Reply #50 on: March 04, 2019, 12:37:52 PM »
Hello Ellaard, bxcc and thesmokingman.  Did you have any issues with the seat tube internal dimensions on your frames?  On my Tideace FM-001 I could not fit the correct sized seatpost down more than a couple of inches and upon further investigation found that the carbon had stuck to the mold and had to get a file out to undo a blockage in the seat tube.

bxcc

Re: 14" 26er FM-M001 build
« Reply #51 on: March 05, 2019, 05:07:48 AM »
The one I got was clear of any debris or leftover resin. How does it fit after the clean up? Both of the Workswell frame I have needed some resin cleanup before I could build them up. Given the cost of these frame, I don't get to worked up if they need a bit of TLC out of the box. Just as long as it's something I can take care of and it isn't a lack of resin in a critical spot.

flynmoose

Re: 14" 26er FM-M001 build
« Reply #52 on: March 20, 2019, 08:46:16 PM »
Well got it finished.  She wanted to start riding before I had a suspension fork, so is riding it now with the rigid (which I bought for CX season.)

She likes it so much that now I have the Reba sitting on a shelf waiting for a moment when I can take the bike apart and trim the steerer tube down.

The Sprinkle Donut steerer tube cap and the purple nipples on the rims were a big hit.

No weight or cost data ATM as I was lazy on record keeping and the 27.5 wheels that are on there now are heavy AM wheels that I bought as spares for the 2 Kona Full Squish bikes that we have.  I have a set of 26" Crest hoops that are drilled 24H so I could lace them up triplet (16:8) and make a really light wheelset.  But she fits the 27.5 just fine and the Stans rims are white which won't work as well aesthetically (and its all about the looks at this point.)

I did go with a Praxis BB so I could run the Trailcraft cranks.  The bummer and delay with that option was the nut plate laid up in the bottom bracket shell extended too far into the hole to allow the outer sleeve for the Praxis bracket to go through.  About a 30min with a small grinder wheel on a mini dremel tool took that down with plenty of threads left on the nut plate and screw to hold the access cover on the bottom.

(And NO - I didn't send her out without any brake discs!  Snapped these pics before I got them installed and just haven't taken any pics of the complete/complete bike.)







« Last Edit: March 20, 2019, 09:00:19 PM by flynmoose »

carbonazza

Re: 14" 26er FM-M001 build
« Reply #53 on: March 21, 2019, 05:51:11 AM »
What a beautiful and so girly bike !
What color reference did you ask ?
I can't wait my currently 6 years old to grow to be able to build her one like this  ;)

Sitar_Ned

Re: 14" 26er FM-M001 build
« Reply #54 on: March 21, 2019, 10:31:15 AM »
Man I would've killed for a bike like the ones in this thread when I was younger!

flynmoose

Re: 14" 26er FM-M001 build
« Reply #55 on: March 21, 2019, 09:34:03 PM »
@carbonazza - the color was called purple chameleon.  Frame was painted by Tideace when I bought it.  They also had a greenish/blue chameleon paint job.

Here is my component list - I don't have the actual weight for all the parts.

Frame:  Tideace FM-M009 - 27.5" frame - painted - 1120g (as advertised - includes QR dropouts) - $291
Tideace supplied headset, seat clamp, rear thru-axle, carbon steerer compression plug - ~250g (forgot to weigh)
Seatpost: Tideace carbon - 400mm - ~210g - $25
Handlebar: Tideace carbon - 660mm - ~120g - $17
Fork#1: Tideace carbon ridgid 29" fork - painted - 515g (untrimmed.  TA and nut added 110g) - $96
Fork #2: Rockshox Reba 27.5" 100mm 15mm TA - 1660g (untrimmed.  includes TA) - $280
Crank: Trailcraft 152mm crankarm dirct mount 24mm "hollowtech" - 570g - $112
Chainring: AbsoluteBlack 30t oval- direct mount - ~55g - $50
Praxis BB30 Conversion bottom bracket - ~140g - $74
Quaxar IRIS  160mm brake discs - ~132g -  $28 (for 2)
Shimano SLX Front/Rear brakes ~557g - $134
Sunrace MX8 11-46 cassette ~485g - $40
KMC 11.93 chain ~266g - $20
Shimano M8000 - Rear Mech ~273g - $68
Shimano M8000 - Shifter ~144g - $39
Forte Corsa stem - ~120g - $13
Wheels - WTB i25 second-hand, hand built - ~2200g (HEAVY!) - $180
Tires - Schwalbe Evo Snakeskin - Nobby Nick Front / Rocket Ron back ~1340g - ~$70 (for both)
Sella Italia Ldy Gel saddle - ~280g - $100 (Mom didn't like it.)
Specialized clamp-on grips - ~120g - Free! (door prize)
Generic composite pedals - ~350g - leftovers
Tubes 27.5 x 2.1 ~400g

From my spreadsheet that I just did, 9757grams calculated.  On the scale right now as ridden on the trails- 9.8kg (bathroom scales - my nice hanging scale drowned in a rainstorm.)

So - not exactly svelt - but almost 2lbs extra in the crappy wheelset.  That would put me under 20lbs with the rigid fork and under 22lbs with the Reba installed.

And for ~$1600 - she has a bike that can be run rigid for CX and front squish for MTB.  To buy an equivalent 26" bike, would be in for $2300 and wouldn't have the rigid fork and this bike is 27.5.

I'm happy - and more important the daughter is happy (second bike I built her and SHE LOVES that it is a "Daddy" brand without any letters all over it.)



« Last Edit: March 21, 2019, 10:09:55 PM by flynmoose »

bxcc

Re: 14" 26er FM-M001 build
« Reply #56 on: September 18, 2020, 09:44:16 AM »
This bike has been going strong for the last few years. And since my kid has decided to grow beyond this bikes useable range, it is up for sale. There has been a couple of changes since it was originally built. The fork is now an all black 2017 SID RL 100mm boost fork, the crank is a 155mm NX crank, and the stem is a white Truvativ stem. It will have a new chain and clean drivetrain at the time of sale as well. Let me know if anyone is interested.

Yes it's a shameless "for sale" post but I think the OP will be fine with it.  ;)

batboy

Re: 14" 26er FM-M001 build
« Reply #57 on: October 22, 2020, 01:36:05 PM »
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001441685047.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.4ba33e561expOX&algo_pvid=e3fea48a-fc9e-47f0-8ea0-be83835082fe&algo_expid=e3fea48a-fc9e-47f0-8ea0-be83835082fe-2&btsid=0b0a557016033898987554154ef99d&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_

I found a similar frame but see that the internal routing is all backwards. 

1)  The single hole on the right side of the headtube is threaded for the rear derailleur (I would like this to be for the internal routed dropper post.
2)  The bottom of the 2 holes on the left side of the headtube is threaded for a front derailleur (I would like this to be for the rear Derailleur)

This leads me to my last question, can these be changed?  It looks like there is an access port under the bottom bracket that is used to route lines. 

bxcc

Re: 14" 26er FM-M001 build
« Reply #58 on: October 22, 2020, 02:27:16 PM »
Judging by the pictures, I believe you can change them. They normally don't run tubes inside of the frame. This layout looks similar to one my oldest daughter is using. I drilled out the removable plastic cable stop to make it a cable guide. I like running full length housing. You should be able to redirect the cables from the bottom cover plate. Not sure if you can access the seat tube though.

batboy

Re: 14" 26er FM-M001 build
« Reply #59 on: October 24, 2020, 09:44:43 PM »
Judging by the pictures, I believe you can change them. They normally don't run tubes inside of the frame. This layout looks similar to one my oldest daughter is using. I drilled out the removable plastic cable stop to make it a cable guide. I like running full length housing. You should be able to redirect the cables from the bottom cover plate. Not sure if you can access the seat tube though.

Does your frame have the access door under the bottom bracket?  What is the purpose of this door?  It looks like there should be access to the seat tube since that's where the front derailleur thread comes out of.