Carbon Speed 2017 27.5 plus FS frame CS-FS27

[GuitsBoy]

I'm going to ask dvo to out a 45mm stroke on a eyelet opal when its released. Using offset bushing will take up 5mm of the extra 7mm the rest being 2mm taken up by suspension.
 I think it will work.

Just curious why you would attempt to take up stroke with an offset bushing when the frame supposedly can handle the full 45mm stroke?  The only trouble is finding 45mm stroke in a 165 eye to eye shock.  Once the trunnions come out, maybe we will have some luck.  But then we'll have to worry about the air fill fitment between the frames trunnion mount.

[ReverendRockRazor]

If you put a 45mm stroke on a 165mm normal eyelet shock it becomes 172mm.
And by yht way worldwidecyclery now has fox trunnion 165/45 in stock. But you still will need to enlarge the bottom mount holes to 10mm. And hope the shock controls clear the bottom tube.

[R_Pierce]

I'm running a 140mm fork and I love it.  But youre definitely going to need to run a 165mm shock.  No way around that.  I'm running a manitou mcleod shock.  Its a steal at $239 from take a hike bike shop.

Are you even noticing the 120mm rear travel?  Or can you tell its short on travel and would like more?  From reading about these newer geo shorter travel rear bikes, it sound like everyone says it feels like a 150 rear travel bike.  Curious to hear your thoughts on that.

[GuitsBoy]

I'm running a 140mm fork and I love it.  But youre definitely going to need to run a 165mm shock.  No way around that.  I'm running a manitou mcleod shock.  Its a steal at $239 from take a hike bike shop.

Are you even noticing the 120mm rear travel?  Or can you tell its short on travel and would like more?  From reading about these newer geo shorter travel rear bikes, it sound like everyone says it feels like a 150 rear travel bike.  Curious to hear your thoughts on that.

Hard to say since this is my first full squish.  I would have to believe it is pretty noticeable, since the 38mm  travel equates to only 100mm travel in the back, not 120.  The travel and spring rates noticeably different, but some tweaking gets them as close as possible, IMO.  I'm running the shock at a little less pressure, with reduced volume to make the spring a bit more progressive.  I'm running 95 psi in the fork, and 190 in the rear.  Bumping it up to 200 feels a bit harsh.  190 still blows through nearly all  the travel, but I haven't felt it bottom out yet.  I'm running the compression at the second notch from open.  I have a tick over 300 miles on the setup so far, so Ill be able to further tune it as I get more used to it, but so far I love it.  Coming from a 140mm hardtail, the bike is certainly much more capable of plowing through chunk.  The few rock gardens and rooty sections we have around here are way easier to hold speed through.  But since I dont have anything to compare, its really hard to say.  I will say the bike climbs extremely well, and my climbs have actually improved over my hardtail times due to added traction.

[Peter60]

I would like to understand why a trunnion shox is not possible? I suppose a diameter 10mm metallic tube (8mm inner diameter) can be used to fit with the 10mm holes of the trunnion shox.

[rideczech]

Anyone found any other 165x45mm shock option for this frame....? 

[ReverendRockRazor]

 You can get the McLeod at bike24 for 170$  shipped now. The fox 165/45 trunnion for 450$. Fox may fit with 8mm thread reducers. Looking at pictures of the dvo opal it looks like the air valve is on the drive side which means no way in hell the trunnion version will fit unless they make a spark specific version. And they may.
 That dbinline will not fit by the way. But I took a grinder to it and made it fit.
 One more thing this frame needs a very progressive shock to make it work right. What ever shock you are using put some volume reducers in it and you will see what I mean.

[GuitsBoy]

You can get the McLeod at bike24 for 170$  shipped now.

  Thats a great price, but I'm showing 170 euro shipped, which is almost $200 USD.

[rideczech]

Bit of a shame to limit the frame to 100mm with the 38mm stroke shock...

[GuitsBoy]

Managed to break the lower pivot bolt on my FS27 today.  Luckily this happened cranking out of a turn, and not on a landing or at high speed.  Heard a loud snap, and the cranks felt just a little bit wobbly for lack of a better term.  Pulled over to the side, and noticed the pivot bolt was spinning freely, and pulled right out, sheared just before the threads.

Emailed peter, waiting to hear back about sourcing a replacement or two.

EDIT:    Peter is sending me a warranty replacement.  I also purchased a spare to keep on hand for $16. 

Now, I'm a little hesitant about this particular piece.  I'm wondering what I could use to beef the part up just a bit.  Perhaps adding a steel tube press fit through the bolt?  Maybe a 10mm sex bolt?

[lRaphl]

Maybe a Ti bolt that fits tight inside this one? With an hex nut the same size as the allen key needed on one side?

http://torontocycles.com/Selling/Titanium_Bolts.html

[GuitsBoy]

Thanks for the suggestion, but I dont see anything that would fit.  I was going to try to find a sex bolt with a 10mm OD sleeve, but those are hard to come by.

I wound up ordering a half meter length of 10mm OD 8mm ID Titanium tubing, which I should be able to press fit inside the new bolt.  I've done similar modification to rear hub axles, and it helped substantially.  Just one of the many perils of being a clyde cyclist.

[ReverendRockRazor]

Mine came loose. If yours was loose this might have caused the failure.

[GuitsBoy]

Mine came loose. If yours was loose this might have caused the failure.

If this was in response to my broken pivot bolt, it was not loose.  It was quite a challenge to remove the threads after the bolt broke off.  If anything I suspect that it was too tight, and it failed on a particularly cold day (single digits F).  But who knows if contraction played a role or not.  Ive since epoxied a short length of titanium tubing into  the ID to reinforce the bolt and hopefully prevent future failures.

[R_Pierce]

Mine came loose. If yours was loose this might have caused the failure.

If this was in response to my broken pivot bolt, it was not loose.  It was quite a challenge to remove the threads after the bolt broke off.  If anything I suspect that it was too tight, and it failed on a particularly cold day (single digits F).  But who knows if contraction played a role or not.  Ive since epoxied a short length of titanium tubing into  the ID to reinforce the bolt and hopefully prevent future failures.

Ironically my P8 bolt broke in the exact same spot.  I ended up finding a standard black oxide steel bolt with the proper length and thread pitch and turned the head down to match the taper.