ZTTO MTB M1 Boost hubs 28H 54T Ratchet

[carbonazza]

The DT Swiss grease is lighter.
I've put the fluo yellow Motorex grease for a while.

But since I wax my chains, I have plenty of useless chain lube bottles.
I put it now into the freehub, as soon as it gets too loud.
It has less drag, and it stays cleaner.

The best I tried is the NixFrixShun(which is crap, in my experience, for chains by the way).

[Colt__Seavers]

Did open the rear hub. There is enough of white grease in the freehub and ratchet. Left side bearing seems to be slightly oiled. End caps, especially the right one, was so snug on the axle that I scratched it a little while pulling it off. But no problem, they are cheap and I have black sharpy. And yes I used cloth and tape covered pliers. Wasn't possible with bare hands. So be sure not to do the same. Build quality is awesome. No sharp edges. Nice black paint. But I might change the color with spray paint if I manage to sort out the color I want.
Any recommendations how to cover the spoke holes from paint?

[carbonazza]

It looks they even copied the hard to remove end caps from DT Swiss 

To remove them without scratching you need a bolt or a cylinder of the same diameter of the axle. You can use the axle too, but you may damage the thread.
Put the bolt a little inside the end cap hole, force the bolt to move on the side, the end cap pops out.

[bxcc]

I’ve found putting a liberal amount of grease on the o-ring helps with removal of the end caps. Doesn’t make it super easy if they’ve been on a long time but it does help.

[Colt__Seavers]

It looks they even copied the hard to remove end caps from DT Swiss 

To remove them without scratching you need a bolt or a cylinder of the same diameter of the axle. You can use the axle too, but you may damage the thread.
Put the bolt a little inside the end cap hole, force the bolt to move on the side, the end cap pops out.

Yeah seems like they've done a great job there also.
Great tip. Thanks! The end cap I scratched sits under the cassette on the final build, so no need to worry for me. And hey, it's not a 250€ hub like DT240, it's 50€.

I’ve found putting a liberal amount of grease on the o-ring helps with removal of the end caps. Doesn’t make it super easy if they’ve been on a long time but it does help.

Thanks, will do so!

[Colt__Seavers]

here are the pictures.
Like I said, I ruined the right end cap on the rear hub, when I wanted it to get off the axle.
FH: 139g
RH: 240g

[carbonazza]

They are light, look nicely built and good looking.
We'll see how the bearings age.

[RDY]

I'm assuming they use a standard bearing spec rather than something proprietary?  Why not just get some decent ceramic ones from Ali?

[Colt__Seavers]

I'm assuming they use a standard bearing spec rather than something proprietary?  Why not just get some decent ceramic ones from Ali?

I assume they do. How can I find out? One photo is picturing some lettering in the bearing.

I never changed bearings on a hub. Is that an easy procedure? How do I do that?

[carbonazza]

Just hit them gently on the inner crown from the other side, to get them out.
Either with a dedicated cylindrical tool and a mallet.
Or again a bolt, an Allen key or a screwdriver.

I wouldn't change them now, just check if they develop some play in the coming months.
When you feel the wheels moves too much laterally.
Ali bearings are ok for disposable ones like BB and headset ones, they are generally crap and don't last.

For the wheels, I put SKF or NTN stainless ones.
Ceramic are a waste of money on an MTB IMO.

[Colt__Seavers]

Just hit them gently on the inner crown from the other side, to get them out.
Either with a dedicated cylindrical tool and a mallet.
Or again a bolt, an Allen key or a screwdriver.

I wouldn't change them now, just check if they develop some play in the coming months.
When you feel the wheels moves too much laterally.
Ali bearings are ok for disposable ones like BB and headset ones, they are generally crap and don't last.

For the wheels, I put SKF or NTN stainless ones.
Ceramic are a waste of money on an MTB IMO.

I never understood why people want ceramic bearings on a bike.
Thanks for the tips. But how do I get the axle out first to make room for the tool to reach the bearings inner ring.

[carbonazza]

You can get the axle out with a mallet, like de dt swiss ones.
Here's a video on how to do it:
Some have threaded end caps, like the Novatec or Carbon Ti.

[Colt__Seavers]

You can get the axle out with a mallet, like de dt swiss ones.
Here's a video on how to do it:
Some have threaded end caps, like the Novatec or Carbon Ti.

It's not possible to get the end caps off like shown in the video as the silver axle has the same inner diameter like the end cap. So you would need to use a screw driver with a way smaller diameter and angle it in the axle to push against the inside of the cap undercut. You would need a tool which extends a little, like the pressfit disassemble tool. But a screw driver will leave marks on the end cap, so any other recommendations?
Looks like DT axles have a bigger inner diameter than the end caps.
Just measured:
end cap rear: 12.4mm
axle rear: 12.2mm

[bxcc]

Once the end caps are off, you should be able to tap on one end of the axle and have come out the other side as it will take one of the bearings with it. My guess would be that the axle has two shoulders on it that rest against the inner race of the bearing. Once the axle and one bearing is out, slide the axle back in and use it to tap out the other bearing.

I obviously don't have the hub in my hand so this is all based off of assumptions.

[Colt__Seavers]

Was just wondering and it's for my interest only. I won't do it before riding them. Bearings seaming fine right now.
Still I wonder why the pencil method out of that video is not working. Seems like ZTTO did something different on those hubs and made the inner diameter of the axle slightly smaller than the ones of the end caps.