Carbonda Cfr 1056

[svanimpe]

Yeah I ran into the same issue. I don't get why you would ever use a lockring with external toothing. I find them harder to install, and they've never fitted in any of the frames I tried them with.

[patliean1]

Yeah I ran into the same issue. I don't get why you would ever use a lockring with external toothing. I find them harder to install, and they've never fitted in any of the frames I tried them with.

My Enve G23 all-road wheels use Chris Kings hubs that require an external outer spline lockring to provide enough clearance for the cassette to be properly torqued. This is pretty typical for gravel/MTB and I have not had any frame clearance issues either for my Yeoleo gravel bike or VeloBuild CX frame.

However, I can see this being an issue on road frames with less tire clearance.

[msm626]

If you put the other type of lock ring, that you can tighten with the same tool as for a cassette, you should be fine.

Awesome. Ordered and should be here mid week. I’ll follow up here if it works in case that helps others. Just need to fix that, align rotors, install the chain, bleed the brakes, index gears, and wrap handlebars. Closing in!

[carbonazza]

Yeah I ran into the same issue. I don't get why you would ever use a lockring with external toothing. I find them harder to install, and they've never fitted in any of the frames I tried them with.

The end cap of the older DT-240 12mm were not leaving enough space for the lock ring tool.
Worse you could kind of tighten it, but good luck to get it out.
The EXP doesn't have this issue anymore.
There are flatter versions of this external lock ring, but require more care to tighten.

[Pedaldancer]

Yeah I ran into the same issue. I don't get why you would ever use a lockring with external toothing. I find them harder to install, and they've never fitted in any of the frames I tried them with.

For 15x axles as used on mountain bikes it makes sense to use this type of lockring. Cause the tool won't fit in.

[msm626]

Update: Success! I used a TRP Centerlock ring for a 12mm axle to replace the Shimano external tooth lock ring. None of the LBS in my area carried the part, so I got the TRP version since Amazon would deliver it in 2-3 days. Thanks all for the recommendations. Providing the update photo for comparison.

[JohnnyRabbit]

I wanted this frameset for a year now, I ordered on February 3rd just received the email with pictures of my frame this morning (Feb 23).

I like that they covered the bottom bracket face for paint. I won't need to get it faced at my LBS

Size: L
Color: Green to purple Chameleon.

I will post the full build when it's ready! 

[carbonazza]

...I like that they covered the bottom bracket face for paint. I won't need to get it faced at my LBS...

Yes if you put a 24mm axle BSA BB, no problem.
In the case of a DUB BSA, the BB diameter is a bit bigger and facing might be necessary.

[JohnnyRabbit]

I will use a Shimano crankset so it's all good. Thanks for the tip!

[JohnnyRabbit]

I received my frame and started to build the bike. I had to get the brake tab faced on the frame because the front mounting point was way higher than the one towards the axle. Also As you can see in the picture, there is excess resin and the carbon fiber is pretty bad in the headtube.

I contacted Wing to see what they can do about it. I wasn't expecting that seeing the quality of other Carbonda frames on the forum.

[JohnnyRabbit]

According to Carbonda's QC, this is totally normal. Is there any owner of a 1056 that has headtube that looks like this on the inside?

Thanks!

[jannmayer]

I don't have a 1056, but my 707 looked a lot nicer than that inside.

[FullCarbonAlchemist]

According to Carbonda's QC, this is totally normal. Is there any owner of a 1056 that has headtube that looks like this on the inside?

Thanks!

The inside of the head tube on my FM1002 isn’t exactly like that but I can see the similarities in the manufacturing technique. Definitely some surface “wrinkles”/protruding edges of carbon sheets and excess resin you wouldn’t expect to see in a branded frame but not quite as sharp edged as those seen in your picture.

It’s not as clean looking but likely has no structural effect at all. Just saves them some money to skip that level of obsessing over how it looks on the inside.

I really wouldn’t worry about it. What you thought might be a void is probably just a chip that separated from the excess surface resin. Doesn’t tell you anything about the interior structure of the frame.

You could probably even sand those prominent edges down a bit if they were rubbing on cables or something, and have zero issues from doing it.

[JohnnyRabbit]

The inside of the head tube on my FM1002 isn’t exactly like that but I can see the similarities in the manufacturing technique. Definitely some surface “wrinkles”/protruding edges of carbon sheets and excess resin you wouldn’t expect to see in a branded frame but not quite as sharp edged as those seen in your picture.

It’s not as clean looking but likely has no structural effect at all. Just saves them some money to skip that level of obsessing over how it looks on the inside.

I really wouldn’t worry about it. What you thought might be a void is probably just a chip that separated from the excess surface resin. Doesn’t tell you anything about the interior structure of the frame.

You could probably even sand those prominent edges down a bit if they were rubbing on cables or something, and have zero issues from doing it.

Thanks a lot for reassuring me! I've been reading on this forum for quite a bit and gathering info on carbon frames before buying. This is my first carbon frame and I may have seen to many Hambini videos so I was worrying. 

Pics of the build coming soon.

[njshift]

Hi. New member here. Can anyone recommended a replacement top headset bearing cap for use with non-integrated handlebar as I’d rather not use the stock spacers and ACR cover for my build.