Velobuild VB-R-168 Frame

[eucalyptus]

@Patliean1

Weight? And/or part list with specified weights?

[gilj]

What are people using for seat post covers, and does the provided saddle clamp also work for 7x9 oversized cable rails?

I've seen people go with the actual SL7 cover.

[patliean1]

@Patliean1

Weight? And/or part list with specified weights?

~7.8kg without pedals.

The handlebars are pretty heavy, and I've started to prefer aluminum again.

I used A LOT of paint which certainly adds up:
4 coats of paint, 3 coats of clear glitter paint, 4 coats of 2K clear coat. Probably overkill but I wanted to ensure the frame actually turned out white (not grayish) and I wanted the added gloss and protection.


Frameset: VB 168, Size 56
Alloy Aero Handlebars: Prime Doyenne Aero Handlebar (I sold the carbon version of these. It's not worth it in my opinion.)
Stem: Zipp 130mm -17
Headset: FSA NO.69/SRS
Saddle: Specialized Power Expert 143
Wheels: Magene EXAR DB Pro 58
Tires: Conti GP5000s 28 w/ Vittoria Latex Tubes
Cages: Bontrager Carbon
Power Meter: PowerTap P2 Pedals
Ceramic Jockey Wheels: Kogel Bearings
Bottom Bracket: Wheels MFG BB86 Threaded (BEST value and ease of install/service BB on the market)
Groupset: Shimano R8020 (Never had an issue routing mechanical shift cables internally. Park Tool routing kit )

My longterm plans for the bike (once this freakin seat post clamp arrives) is for use as my backup fast/race bike, but mostly for long endurance and explore rides. I'm interested to see how it stacks up against my T1500, Allez Sprint, and Dengfu R12.

[pearl]

Man; instant regret not getting this frame now! Looks great.

[StiffWeenies]

~7.8kg without pedals.

The handlebars are pretty heavy, and I've started to prefer aluminum again.

I used A LOT of paint which certainly adds up:
4 coats of paint, 3 coats of clear glitter paint, 4 coats of 2K clear coat. Probably overkill but I wanted to ensure the frame actually turned out white (not grayish) and I wanted the added gloss and protection.


Frameset: VB 168, Size 56
Alloy Aero Handlebars: Prime Doyenne Aero Handlebar (I sold the carbon version of these. It's not worth it in my opinion.)
Stem: Zipp 130mm -17
Headset: FSA NO.69/SRS
Saddle: Specialized Power Expert 143
Wheels: Magene EXAR DB Pro 58
Tires: Conti GP5000s 28 w/ Vittoria Latex Tubes
Cages: Bontrager Carbon
Power Meter: PowerTap P2 Pedals
Ceramic Jockey Wheels: Kogel Bearings
Bottom Bracket: Wheels MFG BB86 Threaded (BEST value and ease of install/service BB on the market)
Groupset: Shimano R8020 (Never had an issue routing mechanical shift cables internally. Park Tool routing kit )

My longterm plans for the bike (once this freakin seat post clamp arrives) is for use as my backup fast/race bike, but mostly for long endurance and explore rides. I'm interested to see how it stacks up against my T1500, Allez Sprint, and Dengfu R12.

The typography is SO on point! just goes to show that well executed graphic design can make a bare frame look 3, 4x it's price!

[darc16]

Kinda wish I had painted my frame white. 

[Pigdog]

...just waiting for my saddle clamp to arrive 
The seat post is being propped up by cardboard inside the frame for photo purposes LoL

Looks awesome! Nice build

[Pigdog]

For people who have recently received their frames, how are the disc-brake installation areas faced?

I bought mine awhile back, but the brake mounting points were definitely not faced. And it’s been a bit of a pain. Brake calipers are a nightmare to align and even when you get it, it won’t last long.
The tool to face them is crazy expensive, so I plan to just spend the cash and take it to a local shop and pay them to do it. Don’t really have another option haha

[eucalyptus]

I bought mine awhile back, but the brake mounting points were definitely not faced. And it’s been a bit of a pain. Brake calipers are a nightmare to align and even when you get it, it won’t last long.
The tool to face them is crazy expensive, so I plan to just spend the cash and take it to a local shop and pay them to do it. Don’t really have another option haha

My caliper mounts are not faced either.... Nightmare!

There is NOT ONE single shop in Sweden that carries these tools required. 2 shops have the Park tool DT 5.2 but they are missing the crucial part, the diamond cutter accessory, meaning they can only face alloy and steel frames and NOT carbon.

I mean sure it is expensive, but for a shop buying at much lower prices and not a single shop carrying these precious items... Real bummer! Will have to use a file and do it manually.

[Pigdog]

My caliper mounts are not faced either.... Nightmare!

There is NOT ONE single shop in Sweden that carries these tools required. 2 shops have the Park tool DT 5.2 but they are missing the crucial part, the diamond cutter accessory, meaning they can only face alloy and steel frames and NOT carbon.

I mean sure it is expensive, but for a shop buying at much lower prices and not a single shop carrying these precious items... Real bummer! Will have to use a file and do it manually.

That’s super annoying! I called almost every bike shop in my city to find one that had the tool. But thankfully I did.
Seems like a tool most bike shops should have, considering the instructions on most even high end  frames say to face the brakes on a new build. My buddy ordered a new Factor frame only online and it says to face the brakes on first build.

[voshond]

All the parts arrived today.

• Even got myself a Hambini BB 
• Stripped the chain off the factory grease, ready for Silca wax
• Setup the Di2 system and charged the battery
• Got Mobil SHC 100, Loctite for Screw+BB and activator for the frame
• Hopefully the SL7 Di2 Battery grommets will work with the seatpost, i expect to adjust a bit with tape, since the form is different

Now i'm waiting for the frame.

I think got everything except new headset bearings.
Recommendations are welcome! Hopefully i didn't forget anything.

[Andros]

The same thing happened to my VB99, a forum user was nice enough to send me the cap faster than Velobuild, will probably receive the thing by the end of this week.

My suspicion is that if you change the wheel enough that thing will loosen up without Loctite, since I get a lot of flats in my region and I use a smart trainer, I remove the rear wheel many times a week.

Hey Liter,I have the same problem,but can’t get any reply from velobuild,any idea if there is anywhere else I can get this retaining washer?

[voshond]

Also as promised, i collected all the specs and products from reading every page that i thought matter to collect here: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1NpMFVEhRhZikKWWa3ZGyseyyIX_4spwQJXQ4DVVXCTA/edit#gid=0

It includes torque specs, bearing specs, alternative headsets + stems, SL7 parts, bolt specs, geometry table and links for the loctite that i used

[Pigdog]

Also as promised, i collected all the specs and products from reading every page that i thought matter to collect here: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1NpMFVEhRhZikKWWa3ZGyseyyIX_4spwQJXQ4DVVXCTA/edit#gid=0

It includes torque specs, bearing specs, alternative headsets + stems, SL7 parts, bolt specs, geometry table and links for the loctite that i used

this is great, thanks for doing that

[patliean1]

Just returned from my VB-168 maiden voyage. Hooray seatpost clamp finally arrived. Did a quick 45km jaunt and here are my initial thoughts. Naturally my opinion will probably change over time...

1. As a "complete" build, I consider the 168 an "everyday" aero bike. It doesn't punish you by being too harsh, and neither is it flexy.

2. No creeks, rattles, or headset play. This is a combination of using a quality threaded BB, cable sound insulation, and the FSA headset working as intended. I also used light thread-locker on both derailleur hanger bolts.

3. No brake rub issues. I purchased brand new Shimano Ultegra rotors and aligning the calipers to them was super easy. Shimano is known to sell rotors that still need to be slightly "trued" upon arrival, but in this case I suppose I won truing lottery. I haven't been so lucky in the past...

4. I am still an advocate that quality wheels are more important than a frame. But I will also include having a proper bike fit and really paying attention to the decision of components at the contact points (saddle and handlebars). A frameset is only one aspect of the complete ride experience, albeit a critical one. As a complete bike with my current components, and assuming everything continues to work as intended, the 168 is a solid value if budget is really tight and if you can only have "one" bike. It doesn't have the same feeling of "urgency" as my Winspace T1500 or Allez Sprint which want you to go fast all the time, and that's okay. Those frames cost 3-4x more and wheels/tire/tube selection also play a huge role. The 168 frame wont be the reason your performance suffers I can assure you...

Regarding the topic of facing the caliper mounts (and subsequently the bottom bracket and headset opening) I spoke to a professional bike mechanic earlier today, who mostly deals with high-end bikes for competitive racing of all disciplines. He says it's very common for new frames from major brands to arrive needing to be faced. Do what you want with this information LoL

Of course my personal experiences and industry conversations are purely anecdotal. I've been fortunate not have any brake rub issues on any of builds due to caliper facing issues. And this is regardless of whether or not a brand actually faced the mounts from the factory. I was concerned my 168 would have facing issues, but the brand new set of trued rotors immediately solved that issue.

I'll follow up in a couple of weeks. Probably.