Velobuild VB-R-177

[mwh0169]

For internal cable routing in handlebars, after testing the new method on a friends bike and saw the results, I did it for myself too, so here is how: just escape it, as easy as that you save yourself a good amount of time, and it gives you the possibility to change, bar or stem in future if you want to, I will post a picture so you can see what I did.

Interesting, can you share a bit more? Did you cut a hole in your integrated bar? What about the structural integrity? Also; does this not makes it easy for water to enter?

[mwh0169]

Hey Everyone,

My 177 is finally live on my channel:

YouTube title: VeloBuild 177 Review - Verdict: Lightweight Affordability

Hello Patrick, can you give a comparison of your experiences between the Dengfu and the Velobuild?
Thanks

[patliean1]

Hello Patrick, can you give a comparison of your experiences between the Dengfu and the Velobuild?
Thanks

The design and execution of VB-177 is focused on being super lightweight, while the Dengfu R12 is an aero frame and essentially a clone of the SL7. Different frames for different uses.

I'm happy to answer any specifics questions, as I've found this helps potential customers more than broad general comparisons.

[slosada]

What weight did you get the wheels down to?

Front wheel 742gr
Rear Wheel 880gr

[Velovelo]

I noticed the 177 seatpost slips down about 1cm after long rides. I switched from carbon to alloy seatpost so I can tighten the clamp a little more but it still slips (even after using carbon paste etc).
It doesn't slip on the indoor trainer though.
Wondering if anyone has similar issues.

I really miss the old school circular seatpost clamp design. I never had slipping problems with that.

Looking forward to the VB zero offset 099 seatpost so I can revive my 099 as a backup bike.

Update on 177 slipping seatpost issue;

My VB177 seatpost clamp came with a M6/35mm hex socket cap bolt.
I swapped it with the M6/30mm hex socket cap bolt from my 099 seatpost clamp and my seatpost slipping issues seam to have disappeared after over 100km of testing.

Not sure of the physics to why this has solve the slipping issue but I am sure glad because it feels like a brand new bike.

[disabnormal]

yes, i had some very tiny amount of play with my integrated handlebar too! i think the problem is that the cover can not push enough on the compression ring, and cover and ring are identical in both seperate and integrated bars.

hey patrick, yes, you are right with the carbon topcap, just built another GF-002 for a friend , with seperate stem and bar, had exactly the same problem  with the carbon topcap, could somehow solve it with putting a normal topcap under the carbon one, and compress them together, it looks it solved the problem, will send updates after some tests.

[disabnormal]

For internal cable routing in handlebars, after testing the new method on a friends bike and saw the results, I did it for myself too, so here is how: just escape it, as easy as that you save yourself a good amount of time, and it gives you the possibility to change, bar or stem in future if you want to, I will post a picture so you can see what I did.

Interesting, can you share a bit more? Did you cut a hole in your integrated bar? What about the structural integrity? Also; does this not makes it easy for water to enter?

no, there is no need for a hole in the bar, and no, if water can enter in normal case, it can also enter in my case, but i don't see any reason it can enter., also rode in wet condition last week, no problem at all. you can download the photos i've posted, it's clear in them if you download them, in browser they are a bit foggy

[patliean1]

Hey All!

I have finally found an easy yet permanent fix for the headset play issue when using the separate handlebar/stem combo. Please bare with me as I'll do my best to be clear and concise. You do not need an FSA ACR setup, nor disconnect any hydraulic or shift cables.

#1 - This is NOT a design flaw on VeloBuild's behalf. The issue lies in the particular C-Clip they supply, which sits in the middle between the upper headset bearing and the black metal bearing cap.

#2 - VeloBuild's C-Clip uses two tabs in order to lock the headset cap into place. The supplied spacers also use these same little tabs/knobs in order to lock the stem in place as well. The problem with these tabs is they are just deep enough (when locked into place) to subsequently recess the metal headset cap too far into the headset bearing. This is why there's always headset play no matter how tight the compression top cap bolt is. Those little tabs are about 0.5-1.0mm tall which, when recessed into the bearing cap, make all the difference.

#3 - The solution? Using a C-Clip that DOES NOT have those little tabs. Using a totally flat C-Clip means the headset cap will still be level/flush, but it wont recess into each other by the 0.5-1.0mm mentioned above. This also enables you to use a C-shaped shim if need be, although you should not need to. Not having the recessed headset cap is basically a shim in of itself since the headset cap will sit 1mm higher.

#4 - I found all of this out while building my Yoeleo gravel bike. I had the same headset play issue. Turns out Yoeleo's headset bearings for the top and bottom are slightly two different thicknesses. The thicker (red bearing) one needs to be on top, and I had them reverse. During troubleshooting Yoeleo send me a spare flat C-Clip, but the fix was simply switching the bearings around.

The Takeaway - Confirm the headset bearings are indeed the same size (they should be) and thickness for top and bottom. Buy/Order flat C-Clip for the top headset bearing. I no longer even needed to use a spacer above the compression plug top cap. Everything is flush, and no headset play even after a 30 mile ride earlier today on terrible Chicago roads.

Photo 1 - VeloBuild's supplied C-Clip with the two tabs
Photo 2 - The replacement flat C-Clip
Photo 3 - What the flat C-Clip looks like installed
Photo 4 - My final setup with no spacer above the stem top cap

[disabnormal]

Hey All!

I have finally found an easy yet permanent fix for the headset play issue when using the separate handlebar/stem combo. Please bare with me as I'll do my best to be clear and concise. You do not need an FSA ACR setup, nor disconnect any hydraulic or shift cables.

#1 - This is NOT a design flaw on VeloBuild's behalf. The issue lies in the particular C-Clip they supply, which sits in the middle between the upper headset bearing and the black metal bearing cap.

#2 - VeloBuild's C-Clip uses two tabs in order to lock the headset cap into place. The supplied spacers also use these same little tabs/knobs in order to lock the stem in place as well. The problem with these tabs is they are just deep enough (when locked into place) to subsequently recess the metal headset cap too far into the headset bearing. This is why there's always headset play no matter how tight the compression top cap bolt is. Those little tabs are about 0.5-1.0mm tall which, when recessed into the bearing cap, make all the difference.

#3 - The solution? Using a C-Clip that DOES NOT have those little tabs. Using a totally flat C-Clip means the headset cap will still be level/flush, but it wont recess into each other by the 0.5-1.0mm mentioned above. This also enables you to use a C-shaped shim if need be, although you should not need to. Not having the recessed headset cap is basically a shim in of itself since the headset cap will sit 1mm higher.

#4 - I found all of this out while building my Yoeleo gravel bike. I had the same headset play issue. Turns out Yoeleo's headset bearings for the top and bottom are slightly two different thicknesses. The thicker (red bearing) one needs to be on top, and I had them reverse. During troubleshooting Yoeleo send me a spare flat C-Clip, but the fix was simply switching the bearings around.

The Takeaway - Confirm the headset bearings are indeed the same size (they should be) and thickness for top and bottom. Buy/Order flat C-Clip for the top headset bearing. I no longer even needed to use a spacer above the compression plug top cap. Everything is flush, and no headset play even after a 30 mile ride earlier today on terrible Chicago roads.

Photo 1 - VeloBuild's supplied C-Clip with the two tabs
Photo 2 - The replacement flat C-Clip
Photo 3 - What the flat C-Clip looks like installed
Photo 4 - My final setup with no spacer above the stem top cap

awesome, looks like a proper solution! where can i order that c-clip?

[cramy]

seems to be called pressing ring




Maybe here

https://www.tradeinn.com/bikeinn/en/deda-compression-ring-for-dcr-system/138244301/p?utm_source=google_products&utm_medium=merchant&id_producte=13757742&country=ae&gclid=CjwKCAjwve2TBhByEiwAaktM1CSdVhSr9clZpAnTvKLO70WHuWV7ImXIdjgmOz8B07t8vVqrO_1OzRoCpiUQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

[patliean1]

Here's the final form (for now) of my VB-177. This goes without saying, but wheels make a tremendous difference on overall performance. And the bike feels really snappy now that the headset play has been fixed.

[hazzer19]

Here's the final form (for now) of my VB-177. This goes without saying, but wheels make a tremendous difference on overall performance. And the bike feels really snappy now that the headset play has been fixed.

Looks amazing! That paint 

[Irideslowly]

Here's the final form (for now) of my VB-177. This goes without saying, but wheels make a tremendous difference on overall performance. And the bike feels really snappy now that the headset play has been fixed.

Wonderful bike. That saddle to bar drop is something else..

[patliean1]

Wonderful bike. That saddle to bar drop is something else..

It's not as aggressive as it seems, when you have long arms haha!

[Irideslowly]

It's not as aggressive as it seems, when you have long arms haha!

I am 6' with a 6'6" wingspan. I guess I could remove some spacers as well??