ICAN P1 Trail-27.5'' (Chinese Carbon) 2021 Frame Build!

[Crankydad]

Hello!

I wanted to share my experience with building up an Ican P1 Frame with my fellow MTBs. For those who are thinking about buying an Ican P1 frame and want to know the ins and outs of the building process and road bumbs along the way. I've done a lot of reading on mtbr and Chinertown threads, and very few posts about the P1 frame. There's some posts about the P8 frame about 3-4 years ago (2017-2018). Ican from what I read changed the name of that frame from P8 to P1 probably around 2019 from a post that emu26 posted on Chinertown titled "P8 Geometry Change: Now known as P1."

This is my first build so I'm super excited to build it up! I ordered my frame in March 2021 and received it finally in June 2021. Been ordering parts along the way, and have everything together

This is what I have:
Frame- Ican P1 (2021)
Fork- DVO Diamond D1 (27.5)
Rear Shock- TBD
Drivetrain Shimano XT (2021):
Bottom Bracket- BBMT-8000 (68/73mm)
Chainring- XT 34T
Crankarms- XT M8120 (Boost 148mm rear spacing)- 170mm
Chain- XT M8100 w/ QL 12-speed
Cassette- XT M8100 10x51
Rear Derailleur- XT M8100 (1x12)
Shifter- M8100 Shifter I-spec (right rear)
Brakes (Front and Rear)- XT M8120 (4 piston brakes)
Rotor (Front and Rear)- XTM800- 180mm
Dropper Post- Crank Brothers Highline 7 (2020)
Dropper Remote- One Up (I-spec EV)
Wheelset- XT M8000 (27.5)
Tire (front)- Maxxis Minion DHR II (27.5 x 2.30)
Tire (rear)- Maxxis Aggressor (27.5 x 2.30)
Stem- E-Thirteen Base 35 stem (50mm)
Handlebar- E-Thirteen Plus Handlebar
Grips- Ergon Ge-1 (Blue)
Seat- Charge Spoon Seat
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$5,000- Total cost of all parts (including some bike building tools)






I bought 90% of parts brand new, the other parts I bought used from Pinkbike

Why I selected the Ican P1:
1) Great reviews about it on forums and Youtube (Brad of Crown Performance Bicycles does great video reviews on Youtube of the Ican P9)
2) The frame can be used a 29'er and 27.5 (I liked the versatility of that)
3) Reasonable priced- I paid about $900 out the door (after taxes and delivery)

I will let you all the challenges I've had as well along the way. Will keep posted with photos and commentary

Will continue to update my build! Stay tuned!

Cheers,
Crankydad

[Crankydad]

New update!

Lesson Learned #1- Confirm with bike frame manufacturer that rear shock frame mount will accept shock with a piggyback reservoir



As you can see in the front triangle (picture shown is when rear triangle is locked-out (not-compressed), if you were to put a rear shock with a piggyback reservoir, the rear shock (piggyback reservoir part) will make contact with the downtube at compression. You can already notice when shock is uncompressed, it's already in a diagonal position

I bought the DVO Topaz T3 (200x57 or 7.875''x2.25''), and it definitely did not fit and I went to LBS to confirm if won't work. They confirmed that yes only single reservoir rear shock would work

I ended of purchasing the Rockshox Monarch T3 (200x57) which I'm still waiting on receiving. Will update on how it goes

Lesson Learned #2- Do more research on modern/current rear shock sizing. 200x51mm or 200x57mm are traditional (out-dated) rear shock size measurements. From research I've done, the majority of major mountain bike manufacturers (Fox, DVO, Rockshox, Marzocchi, etc) are moving towards "metric" size measurements since 2016.

Lesson Learned #3- If I were to do it all over again, I would definitely have purchased the Ican P9 "Enduro" frame. It's accepts metric rear shock size of 210x55. So in the future if I wanted to upgrade rear shock, I would have more options available

-Crankydad

[Crankydad]

Photos from Session #2 (July 7th 2021)

Steps I did for this session:
1. Measured and cut steering tube of fork (make sure to place stem, crownfork race, headset, and all spacers/bearings and mark cut on top of steerer tube. Cut 2-3mm below that line to have room for stem cap and bolt or extra 2mm spacer )
2. Installed star nut into steerer tube and crown fork race
3. Installed fork onto frame with headset, bearings, spacers, and stem
4. Measured and cut handlebar to my preferred length (780mm)
5. Installed handlebars on the frame







Some tools that were super useful to me during this stage of building:

1. Pipe Cutter (plumbing tool)- for cutting steerer tube of fork and also handlebars
2. Reamer for Pipe/Tube- to smoothen the edges of the steerer tube and handlebars after cut
3. PVC Pipe (1 1/2'' Diameter)- to pound crown fork race into bottom of steerer tube
4. Star Nut Setter Tool- To set star nut into the steerer tube

[Crankydad]

Photos from session #3 (July 8th 2021)

Steps I did for this session:
1. Routed dropper post cable and housing internally from seat tube through downtube
2. Installed left brake lever, then installed dropper post remote onto left brake lever clamp (I-Spec EV)
3. Installed right brake lever, then installed rear shifter lever onto right brake lever clamp (I-Spec EV)
4. Installed grips to get correct positioning of brake lever clamping
5. Installed front bake caliper onto fork with Shimano F180P/P2 adapter (since I'll have 180mm rotors)- Confirm with fork manufacturer not already designed for 180mm rotor
6. Install rear brake caliper onto rear triangle of frame with Shimano F180P/P2 adapter (since I'll have 180mm rotor in back)- Ican P1 frame designed for 160mm rotor in rear













Tools helpful:
1. Housing dampening foam (for internal routing)- I heard other people say cable rattle loudly during rough terrain on trails
2. Pre-routed plastic with masking tape ends come stock with the Ican P1 frame (so all you need to do is tape housing to plastic and push and pool through frame. Or if routing cable first then housing, you can just insert cable into the pre-routed plastic

Lesson Learned #4- Budget extra time for routing cables internally!- I imagined this only taking 1 hour tops, this took me 4 hours at least!
- Also, the pre-routed plastic were routed in a way that didn't match my setup. My setup was:
i. Left brake lever and dropper post remote on Left of handlebar
ii. Right brake lever and shifter lever on Right of handlebar

I wanted the rear brake and right shifter cables to through from the left side holes of top of downtube then cross to the right side to handlebar. Ican had the prerouted plastic for rear shift cable coming from right side of holes on top of downtube. The same for the rear brake hose (on the right side holes of top of downtube)

The pre-routed plastic for the dropper post was coming from the left side holes of top of downtube. I wanted it to come from the right side holes of downtube and then cross to Left side of handlebar

Something to note!

-Crankydad

[Crankydad]

Photos from session #4 & #5 (July 12th & 13th 2021)

Steps I did for this session:
1. Install tubeless tires on both rims

Tools helpful:
1. Soapy water
2. Air compressor
3. Sealant injector (syringe)
4. Valve core remover
5. Tire sealant




I was successful in mounting the tubeless tires to the rim! It took me about 20 minutes for each tire to mount on the wheel. I was very satisfied. This compared to routing the cables and brakes hoses to frame, which tooook so long

Lesson Learned #5- Make sure to confirm your tire/wheel is tubeless compatible. I tried mounting a non-tubeless tire onto a tubeless wheel on my previous bike, I was so frustrated why the tire bead wasn't mounting onto the rim. I did this multiple times and tried finding different hacks or solutions and nothing was working! Not until I took the bike to the bike shop to get a bike tune did I realize that when the bike tech told me "Yea your tire is not tubeless bro" FAIL on my part

-Crankydad

[Crankydad]

Photos from session #6 (July 12th 2021)

Steps I did for this session:

1. Install brake hoses onto brake levers
2. Install brake rotors and cassette onto wheels









Tools Helpful

1. Park Tool BBT-9 Bottom Brack Tool- I used this to install the brake rotors onto Shimano XT M8000 wheels. This fits the wheel lockring
2. Park Tool Fr-5.2 Cassette Lockring Tool

Lesson Learned #6- Brake Hose Connecting Olive- After completing the entire bike build, when I took the bike for a ride, I squeezed the brake lever and the hose completely removed from the lever and had brake fluid spilling everywhere from the hose and lever! When I inspected the problem, it looked like the olive was too close to the end of the hose. Per Shimano's Dealer Manual, it says to place the olive about 2mm from the end of the hose prior to inserting into lever which I had it. From this experience, I experimented with placing the olive about 8-10mm away from end of hose prior to inserting into lever and haven't had a problem since. This gives less room for error from the olive clamping down on the end of house that is metal (silver/gold part end of hose for Shimano brake hoses which Shimano calls "Connector Insert"). The olive will actually clamp down on the hose which is soft therefore avoiding brake hose to disconnect from lever

Lesson Learned #7- Brake Hose Cover- Make sure to insert brake hose cover from the brake lever to the brake hose. I installed the brake hose onto the lever, and then realized I forgot to install the brake hose cover. So I had to undo the hose, connecting bolt, and olive and I lost some brake mineral oil because of it.

[Crankydad]

Photos from Session #7 (July 13th 2021)

Steps I did for this session:

1. Install Bottom Bracket







Thing to know
If you buy the Shimano XT BB-MT8000 Threaded External Bottom Bracket (BB), it comes with a plastic bottom bracket tool (Shimano TL-FC37) so you don't have to buy one. It will fit the driver head of a ratchet wrench

-Crankydad

[Crankydad]

Photos from Session #8 (July 17th 2021)

Steps I did for this session:

1. Install chainring on crankarm
2. Install crankarms onto bike
3. Install travel reduction spacers DVO fork from 160mm to 140mm (Tried and failed)









Tools Needed:
1. Shimano TL-FC41 Chainring Tool (I didn't have. It was a day I just discovered I needed the tool. I was eager to have it installed, so I just it took to the LBS to install chainring onto crankarm

Lesson Learned #8- If frustrated, take a break or continue the next day. I would recommend continue the next day. I was frustrated with forcing an open ended wrench instead of a socket to loosen a nut on top of the fork. So while I was working on the inner cartridge of the fork, I wanted to loosen the nut, and I accidently turned the nut clockwise therefore tightening it instead of counter-clockwise to loosen. I damaged the upper cap of the assembly by using a pin spanner (see photo above). Should not have needed to do

Things to know:
1. Boost Frame and Crankarm Spacers- If you're buying a drivetrain, and your MTB frame has boost spacing (148x12 or rear hub), make sure to install the recommended spacer size between the bottom bracket and the left and right crankarms. For my Shimano XT FC-M8120 crankarms, it was a 3mm spacer on each side of bottom bracket

2. Chainring and Frame Clearance-For front chainring, I had a 34T Shimano XT chainring. There was just enough space from the chainring from hitting the chainstay of the bike frame with the 3mm crankarm spacers installed. Make sure to do research on making sure there's enough clearance with frame and chainring for desired chainring teeth you want to install

Resources:

1. Free to Cycle Youtube Channel
Shimano Deore XT M8100 Crankset And BB Fitting Guide - YouTube


-Crankydad

[Crankydad]

Photos from Session #9 (July 23rd 2021)

Steps I did for this session:
1. Install rear shifter cable housing to attach to derailleur and shifter





-Crankydad

[Crankydad]

Photos from Session #10 (July 24th 2021)

Steps I did for this session:
1. Install rear shock ( I decided to get the Rockshox Monarch RT3 200x57 Rear Shock) ($363 from Amazon)
2. Install wheels onto frame! (This was the most rewarding and happiest part since the bike resembles a complete bike almost!)









Tools Helpful:
1. Rear Shock DU Bushing Tool- This tool will help you remove/install bushing from your rear shock that you purchase. Excellent for future maintenance of greasing shock eyelets and bushing in the future

Things to know:
1. Mountain Hardware- For the Ican P1 Frame-
22.2x8mm mounting hardware (Rockshox) will work for the frame
- I did a lot of research to make sure the mounting hardware is correct size, it ended up working out

This session was the most happiest part for me after putting on the rear and front wheel onto the frame! The bike really looked like a bike! (as seen from photo above). At this point, I was probably at a total of 40 hours working on the bike. Alot of ups and downs, moments where the bike tool serves it purpose, and moments of frustration where there was a bike part forgot to order, or mistakes were made like stripping a nut on the fork)

So happy here!

-Crankydad

[Crankydad]

Photos from Session #11 (July 30th 2021)

Steps I did for this session:

1. Add Shimano Mineral Oil to Brake Levers
2. Align Rear Brake and Front Brake to make sure brakes don't rub against rotors









Tools Helpful:
1. Bleed Kit for Shimano Hydraulic Disc Brakes- Cost $30 from Amazon- This comes with a funnel, that is good for adding mineral oil to brakes in case lose mineral oil during brake hose installation and also for future maintenance to bleed brakes

Lesson Learned #8- Get a VELCRO tie to hold the brake lever in compressed position OR have another person hold brake lever down for you. This is SUPER helpful when your aligning your rotors so they don't rub against brake pads. You'll need to loosen the 2 bolts that attach your brake caliper to the frame/fork. Once loosened, compress brake levers and hold with the the VELCRO tie or extra hand. While it's in hold position. Tighten the bolts on brake caliper

Things to know!

1. Brake pad adjustment- Even with the above mentioned lesson, you may still need to work on brake pads to align with rotors so dont rub

I got a good TIP from Syd Fixes Bikes Youtube channel
**IF brake pads still rub after above mentioned step, place a small folded piece of paper (1.5inch x 1/2 inch) on top of rotor, and roll rotor with paper into the brake caliper so paper touches pads
**Make sure to loosen bolts on brake caliper. and then repeat Lesson Learned #8 above. This should just create enough space so the pads dont rub the rotors

Resources:
Syd Fixes Bikes Youtube Channel
THREE DIFFERENT WAYS to center disc brakes and stop rotor rub | Syd Fixes Bikes - YouTube

-Crankydad

[Crankydad]

Photos from Session #12 (August 2nd 2021)

Steps I did for this session:
1. Confirm derailleur guide wheel and cassette sprockets line up for each gear
2. Install shifter cable onto rear derailleur







Tools Helpful:
1. Icetoolz fourth hand cable puller- Useful for getting shifter cable taut (like having an extra hand while tightening bolt on cable clamp on derailleur)

Tips:
Do these things before installing chain
1.Make sure derailleur hangar not bent- Stand behind the the bike, looking at the cassette and derailleur hanger, make sure the two jockey wheels line up with the cogs (that derailleur hangar is straight)

2. Set high limit screw (for smallest cog)- make sure the upper jockey wheel lines up with the smallest cog. If jockey wheel too far in towards cassette, turn "H" screw counter-clockwise. If jockey wheel too far out towards dropout of frame, turn "H" screw clockwise

3. Set low limit screw (for biggest cog)- **Use your hand to push derailleur towards biggest cog on cassette. After doing this, make sure the upper jockey wheel lines up with the biggest cog. If jockey wheel moves past largest cog towards spokes, turn limit screw "L" clockise to move away from spokes If jockey wheel doesnt reach the largest cog (like it stops at the 2nd to largest cog), turn limit screw "L" counter-clockwise to move jockeywheel towards largest cog towards spokes

4. Secure the inner cable to the rear derailleur- First, set the shifting lever to its initial position (highest gear the smallest cog)- At the back of the bike, remove the slack of cable from end of cable housing, pull taut with fourth hand cable puller (just pull taut enough right before derailleur pulley moves). While doing so, clamp down the cable to the derailleur with bolt



Resources:
Free to Cycle Youtube Channel
Shimano XT M8100 Rear Derailleur Fitting Guide - YouTube

Shimano XT Rear Derailleur Dealer Manual
DM-MARD001-03-ENG.pdf (shimano.com)


-Crankydad

[Crankydad]

Photos from Session #13 (August 3rd 2021)

Steps I did for this session:
1. Measure chain, cut chain, and install chain



Photos below from Shimano XT Rear Derailleur Dealer Manual (How to Install Chain)









Tools Helpful
1. Chain Tool- (Invest in a good chain tool to take out or replace pin on chain)
2. Part of Hangar from DryCleaners- (Cut hangar accordingly, after chain has been cut, will need to use this to hold the opposite ends of chain which you insert Quick Link (Shimano) or Power Link (SRAM)

Lesson Learned #9- Measure chain 3x, then cut! And if using the above instructions from Shimano for full-suspension bike, go with the 6 links instead of the 5 links after the 0 point! I cut my chain too short! It caused me another 4-5 hours trying to add another link onto the chain with my my Park Tool CT-5 Chain tool. I ended up bending one of the links during inputting of the pin into the chain link hole, and it just wasn't the same when the added link was on. Also, I bought some spare Shimano 11- speed pins from Amazon to use instead of original chain pin since because I thought it be easier to insert back into chain. I was wrong. Once the inserted the Shimano 11 speed chain pin into chain and snapped the part of pin that resembled a firearm bullet, there was still a part of the pin protruding on the outside of the chain and it wasn't flush to the chain

Lesson Learned #10- Invest in a good chain tool. I used the Park Tool CT-5 which is like $18. In hinsight, I will definitely be using a better chain tool than something under $20. It should make the pin removing or pin replacing process more smoother

Thing to Know:
For Shimano XT M8100 12-speed Rear Derailleur
(In last photo above referencing "2. Adjusting the B Screw ")

1. Line Inner Side of Outer Plate of Rear Derailleur- THIS IS IMPORTANT TO KNOW- This will let you know if your chain is too short, or too long. Even after adjusting the B Screw. Once you shift your chain to the largest sprocket, go to the non-drive side of the bike looking through rear wheel at the rear derailleur, you'll notice a line at the top of the derailleur outer plate. That line should just about align with the largest tooth of the largest sprocket. In my case, my largest chain sprocket was just about 1/4 inch away from the line meaning it was too short.

I was fed up with this whole chain length process, I ended taking the bike to REI and having them fix it. They ended up adding on another chain link for me with professional tools, knowledge and skills

Also, before bringing to REI, I thought of adding 2 quick links to the chain to lengthen chain since easier to add a quick link to input original chain pin to add a link. Didn't look right, so I recommend not doing that if you're thinking about doing that


Resources:
Shimano XT M8100 12-speed Rear Derailleur Dealer Manual
DM-MARD001-03-ENG.pdf (shimano.com)

-Crankydad

[Crankydad]

August 9th 2022

Hello! New update! See below on photos of finished product

I completed this build in early August 2021 and just forgot to update it on here now

Since I had cut my chain too short and was off by like 1 link, the derailleur hanger showed tension on the lowest cog (hardest gear). Because of that, the shifting wasn't smooth, and I was unable to lineup the tip of the largest tooth on largest sprocket with the line at the top of the derailleur outer plate (I believe this is specific to Shimano XT M8100 12 speed derailleur drive train). My largest chain sprocket was about 1/4 inch away from the line. Even with adjusting the B-screw, I still wasn't able to line it up

So I decided to go to REI and have them check it out and help me. They ended of fixing it by lengthening the chain, and the largest tooth of largest sprocket lined up with the line at the top of the derailleur outer plate. I paid about $20 and it was totally worth it

See below on my complete build!

















-Crankydad

[jannmayer]

Awesome write up, thank you! There are some great lessons and tips in there.