Velobuild VB-R-218

[Mic553]

I just opened my seatpost clamping of the cracked frame after almost 10000km of use (see the story here: https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,3650.msg58140.html#msg58140 ) to switch to a 0-setback post. I was quite worried if it would still hold after reassembly with the crack there since I rather wanted to ride then build the replacement frame. But the cracked frame is still working fine. I used only 2nm on the screws now and again tape and carbon paste.

After all the biggest issue was to get the old post out. The clamping collected so much dirt and sand during the winter, nothing wanted to move. I had to use a rubber hammer and some lever to get the clamping out. The metal parts had quite some rust despite lots of grease upon assembly.

Still loving the bike.

[gabbia]

ordered mine in rim brake version and metallic silver paint job
Hope that i will not faced the seatpost crack problems

[Avalius]

I've got one of these frames on the way with a 42 handlebar. Are these like the dogma handlebar? 42 c-c and 38 on the hoods?

[Serge_K]

I've got one of these frames on the way with a 42 handlebar. Are these like the dogma handlebar? 42 c-c and 38 on the hoods?

Afaik, VB sells standardized bars. If you order a cockpit it will be the same irrespective of the frame you order. The specs of their bars are online. By default there's no flare. When I ordered gravel frames from them I asked for flared bars and hate them. You can feel you're catching the wind, and when you go downhill on technical stuff I have my hands on the brakes anyway so I don't understand the appeal in flared bars.

[Sebastian]

I've got one of these frames on the way with a 42 handlebar. Are these like the dogma handlebar? 42 c-c and 38 on the hoods?

This frame is a carbon copy of the Dogma F. That includes the integrated cockpit. So yes, shape and measurements are the same. But it's not a 4cm difference between hoods and drops IME. My 40cm bar is around 38 on the hoods and 40 in the drops.

[SillyMochi]

IMHO flared bars only make sense when the actual bar is very narrow, say like 350mm narrow. Then it flares out to around 400mm. So you have the aero benefits on the hoods and more control for technical stuff/attacking.

Would never get a flared bar starting around 420 and going to insane numbers like 500.

[Queen of Skulls]

how do I mount the front shift cable at the derailleur??? you know to stop the housing to it shifts? anyone have pics...I feel like I have a missing part. the housing just comes out of the bracket of the seat tube... its whats holding up my bike... I should have asked before but I am very adhd and there was no more dopamine in the project... so I have to wait to recharge.

[Queen of Skulls]

This is what I am talking about. It doesn't seem to stay.. And just slips out

[Sebastian]

This is what I am talking about. It doesn't seem to stay.. And just slips out

That’s weird. The opening should be way too small for the shift cable housing to pass through. Can you post a pic of that part in detail?

[Serge_K]

This is what I am talking about. It doesn't seem to stay.. And just slips out

I loathe mechanical front derailleurs.
The latest shimano models have a system where the HOSE goes all the way to the derailleur. Older models used to be that the hose would stop in the frame because of the plastic thingy in the frame, and only the cable would go to the derailleur.
This isn't something that i've seen covered much in YT & here.
But that could explain your predicament: you may be using a plastic thingy that's meant to allow the hose to go all the way to the FD.
I would suggest you look at the prices of FD that connect the hose directly, because that's a superior design: better weather proofing, less faffing with the frame stopper, and should be mechanically superior.

[neobiker]

I loathe mechanical front derailleurs.
The latest shimano models have a system where the HOSE goes all the way to the derailleur. Older models used to be that the hose would stop in the frame because of the plastic thingy in the frame, and only the cable would go to the derailleur.
This isn't something that i've seen covered much in YT & here.
But that could explain your predicament: you may be using a plastic thingy that's meant to allow the hose to go all the way to the FD.
I would suggest you look at the prices of FD that connect the hose directly, because that's a superior design: better weather proofing, less faffing with the frame stopper, and should be mechanically superior.

I use Shimano 105 FD on my Tiagra 4700 builds for this reason. It just makes it simpler.

[Queen of Skulls]

I am running a sensah system.... I dont know how will shimano  work... this is a more budget built. There is a scram on there right now

[Sebastian]

I mean sure yeah, it's not exactly a fun part of the build, but it's not rocket science either.
Especially on this frame, because there's a cover under the BB shell and you can access from there and help guide the housing and slot it into the cable stop. Obviously before you install a crank and a bottom bracket. I used some liner and one of those old V-brake cable thingies I still had lying around for weather proofing.
My frame came only with the one cable stop installed and that should look like in the pics. It should be impossible to pass a shift cable housing through there. There's no second version I'm aware of for Di2 cables because this frame has a dedicated Di2 port just below the FD hanger for this. So either yours is damaged or they sent you the wrong part.

[Serge_K]

I am running a sensah system.... I dont know how will shimano  work... this is a more budget built. There is a scram on there right now

Sensah FD suuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuucks. And not in a good way.
i built 4 bikes with Sensah groupsets, i regret ever using their FDs to this day. And 1 of the RD just died for no reason.

[Queen of Skulls]

I mean sure yeah, it's not exactly a fun part of the build, but it's not rocket science either.

My frame came only with the one cable stop installed and that should look like in the pics. It should be impossible to pass a shift cable housing through there. There's no second version I'm aware of for Di2 cables because this frame has a dedicated Di2 port just below the FD hanger for this. So either yours is damaged or they sent you the wrong part.

Of cousre its not rocket science... I was making sure I had the wrong stop... that I wasnt using the wrong cable housing.  I have the wrong part... now need to try to find the right stop.


which is what I cant find it... anyone know the name?