*picture heavy* TFSA tarmac SL7 copy - sketchy AF

[eucalyptus]

Hey

I received a custom-ordered TFSA JH-33 frame a.k.a copy of the Tarmac SL7. I asked for no shifter holes so they plugged the rear and the bottom service hatch, although they still left a big hole next to the front derailleur mount which was bolted on.... WTF had to drill it out.

Anyhow, the frame is insanely light at 825 grams for a medium size 54. Not much heavier than the S-works which costs $5500 USD. Although I have some minor, maybe major issues I would like to address and ask for your opinion about.

First of the fork which is quite light for an uncut aero profile! The bearing is seated directly on the fork without a collar which I find kinda weird, especially since the seat looks very weird IMO. Or what would you say? They shipped it with IS52 bearing 45/45, one 7mm thick and the other 8mm. I have ordered FSA SL MR128R lightweight alloy 7mm bearings to replace with.


Secondly, the front axle is too short. Only covers half the thread which is terrible! Additionally, the axles are threaded internally to attach a bolt/nut thing to the end. I've never seen anything like it before.

The facing for the brake mount is not properly done judging it to my other bikes, one being an Italian-made Basso. Trying to mount a brake caliper and it is just not sitting very well.

Same thing with the dropouts, they are so thin that the wheel hubs barely have anything to rest on!!! Does not feel very safe at all.

I have contacted a professional carbon expert to have him look over the frame which I pray will be ridable. Does not look like it right now and definitely not feels like it.

More pictures to come in addtional posts.

[eucalyptus]

If someone knows how I can put pictures in SPOILER then please let me know...

Dropout and caliper mounts

[eucalyptus]

The derailleur hanger is two-piece but the carbon piece holding it all together is extremely thin!!! Like how is this gonna hold up. With a cut-out for the hanger to "hang on to" which you can see in the pictures.

[eucalyptus]

The front hanger is mounted with rivets which is a terrible idea. Would have appreciated screws as I may want to use it in the future, had to take it off.

[eucalyptus]

The frame is raw carbon but kinda scratched. It is very smooth but still looks scratched, the idea is to have the frame half painted and half only varnish with raw carbon finish. The frame is going to a painter later, what do I need to do, to prepare the frame? Use finer grit sandpaper to remove scratches or what is it gonna look like with a gloss varnish coat ?

The compression ring that came with the frame really looks a lot like the previous "recall" ring that Specialized first had with the SL7. What is your opinion, does it look safe to use, or is it too thin and sharp? It was extremely sharp at first, just filed off the worst edges.

The integrated one-piece handlebar is "THE ONE PRO HANDLEBAR" from aliexpress, but was purchased directly from the manufacturer on Alibaba. Of course, its aero profile does not fit the frame spacer set. As I want to slam it, my idea is to run it as pictured but to cut out a 2mm thin piece of metal and act as a support between the two. Also to cover up the holes and such. I have given it a lot of thought and this is the solution I found to be the most reasonable and least complicated.

[eucalyptus]

The original spacer that came with the bar, the compression ring is just way too thick. It is made for frames with a dropped/lowered bearing 5mm below the edge.

Picture of the axle, I need to order a longer front axle from Aliexpress. Have to look what J&L has to offer.

Seatpost is ridiculously heavy and stupidly designed, like the original SL7 saddle mount. Will have to check with Berk about making a custom one as the real SL7 post won't fit. This one looks shorter than the real post and not as narrow/aero.

The clamp is made of plastic and actually very light, dropped the weight from 23 to 19.7 with a titanium screw.

[St0mpB0x]

Picture of the axle, I need to order a longer front axle from Aliexpress.

Yeah, that looks shit. You'll want to check what the actual spacing is between the blades first. They might just be overly wide which is a different and probably worse problem.

Seatpost is ridiculously heavy and stupidly designed, like the original SL7 saddle mount. Will have to check with Berk about making a custom one as the real SL7 post won't fit.

It's a little porky but nothing crazy. Respectfully, if you are buying a frame like this I very much doubt that comissioning a custom molded post from Berk is in your price range. It'll likely dramatically exceed the price you paid for the frame.

The frame is going to a painter later, what do I need to do, to prepare the frame? Use finer grit sandpaper to remove scratches or what is it gonna look like with a gloss varnish coat ?

Wipe the frame with a wet cloth. That'll give you some idea what a clear coat will look like when applied. Ask your painter how they want the frame prepped or if they prefer to do it themselves. A roughly 600 to 800 grit finish is often a good place to start painting from.

The front hanger is mounted with rivets which is a terrible idea. Would have appreciated screws as I may want to use it in the future, had to take it off.

This is incredibly common, especially on road race bikes. You are lucky they didn't employ good practice and glue it as well. Rivets are also lighter than screws.

Dropout and caliper mounts

Yeah, the facing looks shit or non-existent. I've also seen very expensive, named brand frames with shit facing.

The derailleur hanger is two-piece but the carbon piece holding it all together is extremely thin!!! Like how is this gonna hold up. With a cut-out for the hanger to "hang on to" which you can see in the pictures.

It does look a little on thin side but doesn't immediately strike fear in my heart.

The bearing is seated directly on the fork without a collar which I find kinda weird

It's extremely common if you are trying to make a lightweight fork and is present on many modern road bike forks. Some BMC forks probably have the most pronounced implementation of this. This allows the manufacturer to have a straigher fibre path. Trying to make a flat surface for a metal race to sit on results in stress risers and necessitates the use of more material.

[elmtree]

That's surprisingly light! I'm curious to hear of you end up riding it.

[zxcvbnmjm]

These are designed to fit the one pro bars to sl7 frames

I know theyre available on taobao but im not sure if theyre sold on aliexpress or anywhere else

[Kirkspants]

Yeah, that looks shit. You'll want to check what the actual spacing is between the blades first. They might just be overly wide which is a different and probably worse problem.

I'm super curious to see what the spacing is; this really does look like a terribly (but still kinda well???) made thru axle or you are now the owner of a boost-spaced road fork 

I agree with St0mpB0x; there's a few things they did that aren't that bad, but a few items that I'd be sketched out on. Speaking as a retired mechanic who has occasionally ridden some questionable setups!

Re: your idea about a simple adapter for the barstem/headset cap interface, I'd keep it at least 2 mm thick as you said. You want to be careful it doesn't warp/flex.

Really interested to see how this project turns out! Are you going for a 1x road bike or.... ss?!

[eucalyptus]

These are designed to fit the one pro bars to sl7 frames

I know theyre available on taobao but im not sure if theyre sold on aliexpress or anywhere else

Wow this is exactly what I need   

Cannot find anything on Ali, texted a few sellers, some are just sending regular spacers and another one sent a link to Emonda/Madone spacers.

Perhaps I could have something 3D printed similar to that, I will see Not sure the compression ring I have would work with the one you pictured, but I am happy to swap to something else.

Thanks a lot!

[eucalyptus]

Yeah, that looks shit. You'll want to check what the actual spacing is between the blades first. They might just be overly wide which is a different and probably worse problem.

It's a little porky but nothing crazy. Respectfully, if you are buying a frame like this I very much doubt that comissioning a custom molded post from Berk is in your price range. It'll likely dramatically exceed the price you paid for the frame.

Wipe the frame with a wet cloth. That'll give you some idea what a clear coat will look like when applied. Ask your painter how they want the frame prepped or if they prefer to do it themselves. A roughly 600 to 800 grit finish is often a good place to start painting from.

This is incredibly common, especially on road race bikes. You are lucky they didn't employ good practice and glue it as well. Rivets are also lighter than screws.

Yeah, the facing looks shit or non-existent. I've also seen very expensive, named brand frames with shit facing.

It does look a little on thin side but doesn't immediately strike fear in my heart.

It's extremely common if you are trying to make a lightweight fork and is present on many modern road bike forks. Some BMC forks probably have the most pronounced implementation of this. This allows the manufacturer to have a straigher fibre path. Trying to make a flat surface for a metal race to sit on results in stress risers and necessitates the use of more material.

Thanks for your input, very appreciated I will check the spacing tonight with my road wheels. Measured the rear yesterday with the axle fully threaded and it measured 142mm exactly.


Alright, I have just never seen rivets on a bike before. Well, never used a front mech either haha. The frame is smooth, really smooth. It is just the "scratches" well they are only visually scratches and it is the visual appearance I care most for. Will try the wet cloth!



The facing may be shit because the frame is coming directly from the mould, I never considered that before. I mean I asked for a frame like this, just thought the facing would be better. But that is possible to fix now, right? A carbon professional should be able to fix it I think, or I hope so at least. How it is done, I have no idea.


I hear you on the fork and bearing. My Basso uses a tapered fork like this, but that one have a really thin aluminum spacer between bearing and fork. What do you think of the fit judging by the pictures? Looks like a small gap, it is not seated on the bottom of the collar.


About a berk post, this is my first chinese frame and a Darimo/Berk post have always been considered. I spent 10K on my last bike with only high-end parts, and as I am not selling any of my bikes, this is why I considered a chinese frame this time to avoid that ridiculously high cost.  But of course, I will have to build the bike first and see if I can ride it

[eucalyptus]

I'm super curious to see what the spacing is; this really does look like a terribly (but still kinda well???) made thru axle or you are now the owner of a boost-spaced road fork 

I agree with St0mpB0x; there's a few things they did that aren't that bad, but a few items that I'd be sketched out on. Speaking as a retired mechanic who has occasionally ridden some questionable setups!

Re: your idea about a simple adapter for the barstem/headset cap interface, I'd keep it at least 2 mm thick as you said. You want to be careful it doesn't warp/flex.

Really interested to see how this project turns out! Are you going for a 1x road bike or.... ss?!

Yup I will see 2 or 3mm, I have a few sheets laying around at my parents place. Otherwise I will pick something up, Aliexpress offers a few different carbon sheets too. Good that you mentioned warp/flex, did not put that much thought before you mentioned it, now I definitely see the consequences of a flexing spacer 

I bought the S-works Aethos expander, 44mm at 17.4 grams. But it is hollow in the middle, which will leave the bar only half supported. Also purchased the Deda elementi HSS 70 (60mm contact surface) expander at 39 grams which will support the entire headset.

1x road bike yes sir! I have done 1x road for some time now, and a few friends too. Works great. Using oval 48 x 10/50 today, a friend with the same gearing uses a 52T up front. Another one riding a Tarmac SL7 uses 46 x 10-36 and it seems to work fine. We live in a very hilly area, 100m elevation for every 10 km.

I will make a proper build post once everything is sorted Aiming for sub 7 kg which should be doable with some fancy parts

[StiffWeenies]

About a berk post, this is my first chinese frame and a Darimo/Berk post have always been considered. I spent 10K on my last bike with only high-end parts, and as I am not selling any of my bikes, this is why I considered a chinese frame this time to avoid that ridiculously high cost.  But of course, I will have to build the bike first and see if I can ride it

Ah, is this a placeholder frame for unused parts?

Your particular model costs 3.2K RMB in China and the brand's other Rim brake models cost as little as 2.55K RMB so on par with VB.

[St0mpB0x]

The facing may be shit because the frame is coming directly from the mould, I never considered that before. I mean I asked for a frame like this, just thought the facing would be better. But that is possible to fix now, right? A carbon professional should be able to fix it I think, or I hope so at least. How it is done, I have no idea.

About a berk post, this is my first chinese frame and a Darimo/Berk post have always been considered. I spent 10K on my last bike with only high-end parts, and as I am not selling any of my bikes, this is why I considered a chinese frame this time to avoid that ridiculously high cost.  But of course, I will have to build the bike first and see if I can ride it

Yeah, you don't even need to see a carbon professional. You'll just need to find a shop with a disc brake facing tool. They cost about $1k USD so very few shops are willing to invest in one although they probably should given the finish quality of many frames.

I'd be stunned if a one off post from Berk/Darimo cost less than $2k USD. I'd love to pleasantly surprised though.