Lightcarbon: New LCR017-D (or Yishun R1058-D)

[dinorello]

That's what I did.  Plus you'll need to secure the DI2 wire so it doesn't rub on the wheel.

[PaxiH]

That's what I did.  Plus you'll need to secure the DI2 wire so it does rub on the wheel.

I think it is a little strange, that some frames have this hole an the most doesn't. For electrical group set you'll normally need it.
Not the end of the world but still strange, because the say the frame is for mechanical and electrical shifting.

They should do the hole always and provide a rubber grommet zu Close it in case of mechanical shifter.

What did you use to secure the wire?

[Ar26]

How to route the di2 cable if there is no hole under the front derailleur? Through the hole for mechanical behind?

Sorry to have raised this problem which certainly does not have one. For my part, I don't have a hole under the FD. So I went through the space provided at the bottom of the seat tube. I have a Shimano Di2. A part is provided for Shimano or Sram. On the other hand, so that the electrical wire could pass through this plastic part, I had to slightly enlarge the hole in this plastic part screwed to the frame. A little electrical tape on the electrical wire closes the small space to prevent the passage of water. Very simple overall

[rasch]

Maybe it has to do with the batches in which the frames were made. Maybe the first set of batches didn't have it and the most recent ones have it. It's the only logic I can find (supposing it's not frame size)

[PaxiH]

Maybe it has to do with the batches in which the frames were made. Maybe the first set of batches didn't have it and the most recent ones have it. It's the only logic I can find (supposing it's not frame size)

Yeah, that's what I'm thinking too.

I reported the problem with the FD Hanger (with Shimano mechanical FD) to Wendy. She said that she give this information to their engineer. So maybe if they think it necessary, they'll make some changes here too.

[dinorello]

I think it is a little strange, that some frames have this hole an the most doesn't. For electrical group set you'll normally need it.
Not the end of the world but still strange, because the say the frame is for mechanical and electrical shifting.

They should do the hole always and provide a rubber grommet zu Close it in case of mechanical shifter.

What did you use to secure the wire?

Couldn't find another solution and used a small piece of black electrical tape.

[PLA]

Basic issues like this make lc look amateurish. Brand new frame design but with no di2 port...

[patliean1]

She said that she give this information to their engineer. So maybe if they think it necessary, they'll make some changes here too.

When I initially inquired LC about this frame, their response started with the following:

"LCR017-D is our latest bike frame and our frame designers also take the advantages of Cannondale SuperSix EVO."

If you're advertising your flagship road frame in this manner, how the heck did their engineers forget to include a proper Di2 port? Especially when my Yishun frame from their sister company included one. That is quite the oversight.

[dinorello]

When I initially inquired LC about this frame, their response started with the following:

"LCR017-D is our latest bike frame and our frame designers also take the advantages of Cannondale SuperSix EVO."

If you're advertising your flagship road frame in this manner, how the heck did their engineers forget to include a proper Di2 port? Especially when my Yishun frame from their sister company included one. That is quite the oversight.

 Product could've been so much better with three dollars of oversight and quality control.  Guess the consumer is the unpaid test pilot

[SeniorBob4321]

I completed the order today. Just need to wait for the newt batch of 380x90 handlebar !
I paid 767 USD for the frame + BB + extra rear mech hanger + shipping to EU.
I will post some pictures when I will get my hand on the frame 
I just the size will be ok (Im 170 and took the size 52).

[PaxiH]

Product could've been so much better with three dollars of oversight and quality control.  Guess the consumer is the unpaid test pilot

Yes, that is bad. I can't believe that the missing hole was a mistake by the engineering. That would be really stupid to be honest. Maybe it was a mistake with the manufacturing. But who knows.

My bike still looks and feels amazing and I'm so far very happy with it. Maybe they'll improve the future manufactured frames. We'll see.

[rasch]

I'm planing on designing some decals for the bike. Does anyone have the measurements on:

- width and height of top tube (close to seat tube and to the headtube)?
- width and height of downtube?
- width (back and side) of the top part of the seat tube (the thickest part of the seat tube)?
- Width of the fork

thanks

[cucumber19]

I had chatgpt estimate the downtube for me and it came up with 40mmnear the head tube, and 60mm near the bb and it worked out pretty well for me (see all the frame pics above, attaching the downtube shot here).

Don't really have measurements for anything else, but they did a pretty good job with the graphics I provided (vector graphic pdf files are their preference).

Of course anyone with a frame, a piece of string and a little time could probably do better

Hope that helps!

[rasch]

Ehehe thanks.

I'll wait then to see if someone can give all I asked (and it was quite a bit ahha)

[PaxiH]

I'm planing on designing some decals for the bike. Does anyone have the measurements on:

- width and height of top tube (close to seat tube and to the headtube)?
- width and height of downtube?
- width (back and side) of the top part of the seat tube (the thickest part of the seat tube)?
- Width of the fork

thanks

Hope that helps.

Viewed from side:
Downtube: 50mm bottom, 45mm top, width 60-40mm (from downside)
Toptube: 20mm bottom,  top 30mm, width 30-50mm (from top side)
Seattube: 45 bottom, 45 top (only the upper area)