VeloBuild VB-R-268 frame

[patliean1]

Update on my 268

Highs
-I love the Mavic thru-axle system. It's quite convenient actually. Being able to keep the axles in place when both transporting the bike and working on it on a mechanic stand is great.

-The bike is both stiff and nimble enough. I can't say there really is any discernible difference in stiffness compared to other bikes. Unless you are truly sprinting or climbing, there will be plenty of other variables in regards to maintaining any set speed.

-Visually I appreciate the frame design. Obviously because it looks like an SL7/Venge. Well rounded proportions. The sloping top tube gives the visual impression of an extreme saddle-to-handlebar drop versus a more horizontal top tube. More exposed seatpost (should?) also means more comfort as the seatpost has the ability to flex. 32c GP5000 tubeless fits no problem.

Lows
-Zero setback seatpost. It's not fully problematic for me, but I had to move my saddle back far more than I'm accustomed to. If this was my only road bike it would most likely be a deal breaker. A non-issue for most folks however.

-7x9 saddle clamp for carbon rails. On my particular clamp when using my AliExpress carbon saddle (7x9 rails), visually it does not appear as if the clamps are fully engaging with the rails. Other 268 owners with carbon saddles have not experienced this, and so far the saddle has stayed put. However, the saddle clamp bolt is now slightly bent from trying secure to the rails. Also a non-issue if you're using 7x7 rails as VB also supplies clamps for that too. Just something to be aware of.

-While the bike as a whole rides better than my previous VeloBuild frames, it does still suffer some from road chatter at the rear triangle. Rough pavement can upset the back end. Thankfully though still far better than my Dengfu R12 and TanTan x38 in this regard. This is completely subjective and anecdotal of course. Over the past few weeks I've made an effort to rotate riding each of my bikes everyday day to get a good feel on the differences and overall riding dynamics.

Closing
It's a great DIY bike at the price point so far. As always, wheel selection and bike fit/position will do most of the heavy lifting. If I could change anything it would be adding more reach to cockpit to offset the zero setback seatpost. Dear VeloBuild: Please make one for me thanks!

[Eddy_Twerckx]

My 5 cents: careful with colours. You can get super durable decals cut for cheap locally, and you can change your mind every week. You can't change your mind with a colour. A colour also directly affect resale value. I chatted with a guy on Insta with a 168, white, who said his only regret was getting the frame painted white.
I got mine in glass black and am trolling Factor with Tractor decals. If i grow up one morning, i can remove them, it's fully reversible. My previous bike i painted orange because i loved the Giant propel from 2000 something in matte orange. Let's say my paint job didn't come out neaaaaarly as nice... I wish i had kept it black.

Counter point. I got my 168 painted in white with pink logos and a blue fork. I have zero regrets after over a year with this paint job. I bought an open mold because it was cheap and gave me the option of custom paint. I don’t have nor did I ever think of resale value because it’s an open mold and who is buying second hand open mold frames? I wanted something fun and unique.

My point is: get the paint you want. Forget about resale value. Get the paint job that excites you and makes you want to ride your bike. We’re not talking about $5000 frames and $2000 custom paint jobs. Mine cost an extra $50 to go wild and do custom logos. The whole package was like $650 before shipping. Have fun with it. I can say with 100% certainty that I would have regretted getting a black frame. Part of the fun with an open mold is the custom paint options. That’s my opinion at least. I didn’t see the point of getting a plain matte black frame when custom paint is so cheap.

[zxcvbnmjm]

Really wish velobuild designed the 268 with the same seatpost as the 168 so they could offer the option for zero setback or setback and existing 168 owners could order a zero setback

[Benbenben]

Update on my fork plug slipping. I added a good amount of carbon paste to the plug and inside the tube. No change. It slips even more I think.

I have now removed it, cleaned everything with alcohol and will see.

@Pat, which expander did you put in yours? I am curious since you did not report slippage at that point.

[Serge_K]

I would try a different plug, they're very cheap on AliExpress. You may also want to try fiberglass cloth, you can probably find a roll in a local diy store for cheap. People have sometimes used that to create some friction with slipping seatposts. How much torque are you applying?

[Easyfunk]

The SL7 replica plug worked fine for me.

[RasmusWH]

Double 268 build coming up (when I get the groupsets (105 Di2) and wheels). One 54 cm in Silver Chameleon (for a friend) and one 56 cm in Blue Chameleon (for me), both with black contrast color on the inside of fork and rear triangle. Really pleased with the quality of paint job, no air bubbles, trapped dust etc.
To be continued 

[patliean1]

@Pat, which expander did you put in yours? I am curious since you did not report slippage at that point.

Neco Headset Expander - Size/length Large.

I never ever use the provided expander plug on any budget frameset.

[RasmusWH]

I simply put bubble wrap around battery. I rode 100 km with no issues. I am still looking for a permanent solution.

I can now confirm that the SL7 Di2 battery mount works for the 268 
Can't put the link in, so have added a screenshot:

[SillyMochi]

Well, you got me ... I just placed an order for a 268 frame myself

[pheidingsfelder]

Just starting to build my Vb 268 using the Ltwoo Electronic groupset. What grommets are y’all using for the front/rear derailleur wires where they exit the frame?

[pavlo.k]

what size do you recommend for 167cm?
going to build a bike for my girlfriend. She is currently riding a gravel bike with almost mtb-like geo (long TT, tall HT, short stem) so it's impossible to compare the fit

[SillyMochi]

what size do you recommend for 167cm?
going to build a bike for my girlfriend. She is currently riding a gravel bike with almost mtb-like geo (long TT, tall HT, short stem) so it's impossible to compare the fit

Going by height only is not recommended for proper bike sizing. At very least you want to measure inseam length as well. If you really want to get it right, you'd measure leg length in two parts (ankle to knee and knee to hip bone), torso length, shoulder width, and arm length. This would give you the most important contact points to the frame.

However, if this is all you can get, then by height only I'd say a 52 frame would be appropriate, which would be a S for velobuild.

[toxin]

also flexibility, weight, weight distribution, core and upper body strenght

how does her current bike fit her? too short/long, tall/low? best starting point is your current bike to see what changes might suit you and which general directions you want to go in for the new one

[Serge_K]

Can she go to a bike shop and try a road bike or two? That would take out a lot of guesswork. Cable integration and one piece cockpit are the enemies of an uncertain bike fit, too... And a gf in an uncomfortable position is an unhappy gf. Unhappy gfs are fire breathing dragons. Dragons are scary. Like snakes, but bigger and with fire.