VeloBuild VB-R-268 frame

[BAcy]

No, mine sits completely flush. Maybe the holes aren't completely drilled out to allow for the "nipple" to sit properly? If that's the case, a small round file might solve the problem quickly.

Yes, holes are not deep enough.

[pearl]

So the real question which needs to be asked is: What are we really looking to gain (or lose) by such comparisons? This is a serious question. I'm happy to help.

Whoa did not want to cause drama, just have an open discussion, plus I feel that me and Pat have the same love language for sarcasm/humor lol

The reason why I want Patty's input is because he's "come up" on these China frames and being so deep into that world, then going to a "real" frame, I'd love to hear his opinion in the differences between the 268 vs the SL8 as they would be competitors in terms of geo/aero etc (on paper, anyway). Could you blindfold Patty and could he feel the difference between each frame? What am I giving up going with the $600 shipped frame versus a $3500 frame? What do I get with the $2900 or so floating around?

[csanz]

As someone who has not experienced any high-performance frameset, I would also love to hear about the differences between the 268 and the SL8. No one expects the VB to be better than the SL8, but as pearl said, how close can the VB get if you invest the price difference in better components like the wheels or the groupset

[pearl]

To me it’s always what’s “better”? You can measure aero in a wind tunnel, weight on a scale, but what else would make a big jump in price worth it?

[patliean1]

Per @pearl 's request because we are buddies 

This is no way intended to be a full comparison. I'll do a deeper dive video maybe later this week.

VB-268 versus Tarmac SL8 Pro

Similarities
-Wheels: Craft Racing Works CS5060
-Tires: GP5000s 28 Clinchers. TPU tubes
-Groupset: Sram Force eTap 1x
-Saddle: Specialized/S-Works Power 143

Differences
-The frame geometry is essentially the same for both, but the reach on my 268 is a tad shorter due to the integrated handlebars. I'm also using an extra spacer on my 268 so the stack height is a tad taller too. But does make easier for an aero hoods position.

My Initial Thoughts
-Those CRW wheels do a decent job of masking some of imperfections on the 268. And they should because they are expensive. They are my best set of wheels in my rotation so it makes sense. 50mm front, 60mm rear, 1300g.

-I cannot get around the fact that the 268 (like all sub $800 frames I've tested) suffers instability from the rear triangle when the frame is disrupted over bad pavement. Not the worse frame I've test in this regard, but not even CRW wheels can fully save it.

-The acceleration on the SL8 is immediate. Both in the saddle and out. Not a single watt is wasted. While the 268 does not feel like a noddle compared to the 168, the power transfer isn't 100% instant. Again, something common at this price point. The SL8 manages to be very comfortable without compromising stiffness at all. The 268's comfort comes at the price of some stiffness loss.

Two Main and Most Important Differences
-The CRW wheels suffer from crosswind instability (>15mph winds) due to how light they are for the depth. This has been an issue when paired with my Giant Propel and Tavelo Attack. Sadly crosswind instability is similar on the 268. However, the SL8 is the only frame I've tested that is very stable with these wheels. Even descending. Wind tunnel engineering? Snake oil? Who knows...

-The SL8's ability to sustain any given speed is noticeable. Very very noticeable. The way it just floats over bad pavement. 100 mile ride or 35mph townline sprint, it's all-day comfort and speed no matter what. At the risk using "bro science" I'd reckon the SL8 is around 3 to 4 mph faster at 250 watts.

I wont even get into fit & finish, warranty, local support, and brand cache. Or just how freaking light the SL8 is for a non S-Works. It really comes down to individual rider style and what you value in a frameset. For myself...despite the Giant Propel, Winspace T1500, and Tavelo Attack, all of which are excellent, the SL8 has pretty much been a revelation for me. So much that I don't even know which premium brand to test next because I just can't imagine any frame being as superb as the SL8.

[pearl]

Thank you for this! I had a 177 for a while and didn’t mind it, I think I would’ve still had it if I didn’t have mechanical shifting on it and it cleared 32s like they said it would… so if it’s better than that…

[2Burgen]

Thanks for the insight.

If it rides as nice as my beloved Scott CR1 I am happy. I quess if one never rides such a high class bike obe does not get spoiled. :-)

[Fleckinger]

-The SL8's ability to sustain any given speed is noticeable. Very very noticeable. The way it just floats over bad pavement. 100 mile ride or 35mph townline sprint, it's all-day comfort and speed no matter what. At the risk using "bro science" I'd reckon the SL8 is around 3 to 4 mph faster at 250 watts.

I appreciate your experience, but it's just impossible to believe. 250 watts for average rider is 34-35 kph (21-21.7 mph) and 3-4 mph (4.8 - 6.4 kph) difference which you claim, it's around 100 watt difference in power, it's insane. The vbr268 must be made from noodles.

[BAcy]

Can I get this out?

[SillyMochi]

I could not. Could only loosen it but the clamps still held it in place and I didn't want to force it and possibly damage it.

I also had to drill it out a bit since the Di2 plug was too fat to fit in. I think I used a 3.5mm drill. With a little care, I was able to drill it in place without damaging anything else.

[BAcy]

I could not. Could only loosen it but the clamps still held it in place and I didn't want to force it and possibly damage it.

I also had to drill it out a bit since the Di2 plug was too fat to fit in. I think I used a 3.5mm drill. With a little care, I was able to drill it in place without damaging anything else.

Same here.

[pavlo.k]

I could not. Could only loosen it but the clamps still held it in place and I didn't want to force it and possibly damage it.

I also had to drill it out a bit since the Di2 plug was too fat to fit in. I think I used a 3.5mm drill. With a little care, I was able to drill it in place without damaging anything else.

You need to remove it from the inside. There's a piece of metal that spreads out when the bolt is tightened and it doesn't really get back in shape once loosened. You need to remove it through the bb hole

[BAcy]

You need to remove it from the inside. There's a piece of metal that spreads out when the bolt is tightened and it doesn't really get back in shape once loosened. You need to remove it through the bb hole

Did you replace it with something?

[pavlo.k]

Did you replace it with something?

I just used a piece of mastic tape

[trytogo]

Never had more issues in a build. That aside, here is the latest.

The stem clamp bolt just spins out because some genius at Velobuild put a round nut in a round hole.

When it hits the point of tension where it should grip the whole thing, it just spins in the carbon hole. The bolt is not threaded. It is the nut and bolt spinning together in perfect unison because the bolt has nowhere to grip.

Apart from smashing this turd with a sledgehammer, any suggestions?