Tideace NEW Gravel Frame: GR201

[macgregr]

I finally completed the build of my TanTan GR201

- Sram Force cranks with powermeter. Garbaruk 42T chainring
- Sram GX T-Type rear derailleur
- Sram X0 T-Type cassette and chain

What about cranks and chainring in the perspective of chainline? SRAM Transmission uses 55mm chainline and SRAM Force uses 45mm [Wide = 47,5mm]. Which cranks have you chosen and what offset of chainring have you used? Do you experience any [negative] effects on shifting/performance of the whole drivetrain?

[phatass]

What about cranks and chainring in the perspective of chainline? SRAM Transmission uses 55mm chainline and SRAM Force uses 45mm [Wide = 47,5mm]. Which cranks have you chosen and what offset of chainring have you used? Do you experience any [negative] effects on shifting/performance of the whole drivetrain?

That combination works perfect. I am running X01 T-type derailleur, GX T-type casette, GX T-type chain, SRAM DUB BB, Sram Wide Road Rival Crankset.
I had the same concerns with chainline, but some of it is fixes itself as a road/gravel rear axle is 142mm while a MTB is 148mm.
So the chainline difference is "just" around 4,5mm in reality and the shifting is absolutely flawless. Can backpedal in all gears.

Have attached a few pictures from different stages of the build process.
Have had it on the road a few times but still haven't decided on stem height

[nicptx]

That combination works perfect. I am running X01 T-type derailleur, GX T-type casette, GX T-type chain, SRAM DUB BB, Sram Wide Road Rival Crankset.
I had the same concerns with chainline, but some of it is fixes itself as a road/gravel rear axle is 142mm while a MTB is 148mm.
So the chainline difference is "just" around 4,5mm in reality and the shifting is absolutely flawless. Can backpedal in all gears.

Have attached a few pictures from different stages of the build process.
Have had it on the road a few times but still haven't decided on stem height

It’s good to know you have a good chain line with a sram wide crankset. I have a similar build in the works with a wide crankset and the red xplr direct mount RD. 

[carloescobar]

That combination works perfect. I am running X01 T-type derailleur, GX T-type casette, GX T-type chain, SRAM DUB BB, Sram Wide Road Rival Crankset.
I had the same concerns with chainline, but some of it is fixes itself as a road/gravel rear axle is 142mm while a MTB is 148mm.
So the chainline difference is "just" around 4,5mm in reality and the shifting is absolutely flawless. Can backpedal in all gears.

Have attached a few pictures from different stages of the build process.
Have had it on the road a few times but still haven't decided on stem height

How is that stem for you? Considering going for the same.

[phatass]

How is that stem for you? Considering going for the same.

Wouldn't recommend it, no. The compression ring is too short meaning that the headset cover couldn't clamp properly and I had headset play.
Ended up designing a C-shaped spacer which I 3d-printed and added between compression ring and headset cover and the headset play is gone.
The looong headset spacer you see on the picture is also 3d-printed by myself but is probably far too tall.
Will probably go down by 2,5cm when I dial in the rest of the bike.

That being said, I could share the 3d-files and you could have them printed locally, in which case the headset works great.

[Requiem84]

My Noah is also finished, loving the ride!

[patliean1]

That combination works perfect. I am running X01 T-type derailleur, GX T-type casette, GX T-type chain, SRAM DUB BB, Sram Wide Road Rival Crankset.
I had the same concerns with chainline, but some of it is fixes itself as a road/gravel rear axle is 142mm while a MTB is 148mm.
So the chainline difference is "just" around 4,5mm in reality and the shifting is absolutely flawless. Can backpedal in all gears.

This is great to know. I decided to order an Eagle GX T-Type derailleur/cassette and instead will be using the Sram Red 13sp on a different build.

I am completely clueless about chainline, and didn't even consider that Sram Eagle/MTB uses a different chainline than road.
Thankfully I had a Sram Force Dub-Wide road crankset lying around.

Weather here in Chicago has been colder than in years past for the winter. My GR201 has been fully built in its current state for over a month. Not a single ride yet 

[wandulus]

I finally completed the build of my TanTan GR201
The complete build has been 8,670 kg (pedals included) and this is the whole setup:
- TanTan GR201 frame with seat post kit, integrated handlebar and thru axles. Chameleon white color.
- Easedon wheels 40mm front profile / 45 mm rear profile, 27mm internal width and Pillar Wing 20 spokes.
- Sram Red E1 levers and brakes
- Sram Force cranks with powermeter. Garbaruk 42T chainring
- Sram GX T-Type rear derailleur
- Sram X0 T-Type cassette and chain
- Pirelli Cinturato Gravel M 45mm front tire
- Pirelli Cinturato Gravel RC 45mm rear tire

I am very happy with the final weight, keeping in mind that due to area in which I live (Alpujarra in Andalucía, Spain) the terrain demands wide tyres and high knobs at least in the sides of  the tires.

The mullet development is also something that suits my area a bit, where there are very, very hard and very long climbs. Perhaps for those with more legs or those who live in a less mountainous area, they can opt for the new 13-speed Force XPLR that is supposed to be released in spring.

I can't train because I'm recovering from an operation, but today I went out for a ride with it and the truth is that the sensations are very good. The bike seems agile and is very, very comfortable.

REALLY nice build. I'm looking at the same frame, with a similar configuration, as I live near Alcoy, in Alicante, and my current XPLR 10-44 is not enought for me. Also the current 40mm limitation for tires in my frame makes me take the good option of leaving it to my wife (with 38T 10-44T) and get the GR201 mullet for me 

[AFE]

Closed to finish

[wandulus]

Closed to finish

Really Nice!!
What's the color code you choose?

[AFE]

Really Nice!!
What's the color code you choose?

Frame is 43 (36 is the same as 43)
Fork and chainstay are UD Black Glossy

https://imgur.com/a/SzR352d

[wandulus]

Frame is 43 (36 is the same as 43)
Fork and chainstay are UD Black Glossy

https://imgur.com/a/SzR352d

Thanks!!
That was my choice, 36 or 43! 
Now I now why they look almost the same.

[AFE]

Here are some more pics. Really happy with the ride. Need to get to used to the new position (much longer than I normally ride) though.

Edit: since I am apparently not able to upload pictures here, you can find them at this link: https://imgur.com/a/gg5WnTE

[SEDK]

I am just in process of building my Noah, but have issues with massive headset play. I am using the Tideace c-ring and handlebars and suspect the c-ring to be out of tolerance or bad design with too little contact to the upper bearing.
I know a few others have had issues with the Tideace bars, but have anybody found a solution to using the original bars but with a better c-ring? Was looking at the Deda DCR headset, but measurements are not so easily found to verify compatibility.

Br.
Andreas

[Uberflo]

Welcome to the club. I ended up changing the bar against one from Speeder Cycling.

You have several options:
a) I assume you are using the black c ring delivered with the handlebar. You can change it against the silver one delivered with the frame. That fixes the moving fork as it compresses also from the front. But you will end up in a large gap between headset and top cap. You can either sand down the top cap or (as I did for another frame) glue on a round piece of universal rubber seal under the top cap to close the gap.

b) The FSA ACR 55R headset sits nice in this frame. No gap between top cap and headtube. Also the top cap follows the form of the headtube. The only issue is that every Chinese handlebar uses its own style of spacer/nut combination. So you need a transition spacer from FSA ACR to the tideace ones (3d printed or you have to glue an FSA spacer and a tideace together).

c) Buy a new handlebar with better quality :-)