Carbonda fm936 Thoughts

[theirishrider]

Hummm thanks all, Is it worryingly tight? or like OK?

[adroitrider]

Tight might have been the wrong word, it was hard to get a wrench in there but I think the Sram wrench would work on 180MM rotor.

[Vipassana]

A few questions:
1. What is the max rotor size the rear will accept? hoping to go 203mm up front and 180mm out back.
2. Are most people ditching the headset that they include? I opted for it as it was pretty cheap. Not sure about quality.
3. Does the frame come with hardware bushing required for the upper shock mount (8mmx22.2mm).
4. I've seen people saying you should open up all the bearings on the rear link and grease them. I think I'll be doing that (not a question I guess..)

Concerning #2 - I used the ultra cheap headset that was included with my hardtail in 2014.  I still use it today and it is fine.  Admittedly I live/ride in a very dry environment, but I have not recognized any issues with it.  One thing I did do was apply a thin coat of silicone water-proof grease to the frame where the bearings sit to make sure there was no creaking.

[Vipassana]

Did anyone of you painted the UD carbon black in shiny clear coat? I wonmder if this looks good on a XC race bike or it should be better matt black

UD with a gloss clear coat looks really neat.  The places on my frame where I applied the paint protection film which is glossy look neat and the top tube, which was matte, has now been polished by my legs after thousands of miles and it looks great as well.

Its personal preference (matte or gloss), but I don't think you will be disappointed with gloss.  It is subtle until the light hits it.

[Colt__Seavers]

Did anyone of you painted the UD carbon black in shiny clear coat? I wonmder if this looks good on a XC race bike or it should be better matt black

UD with a gloss clear coat looks really neat.  The places on my frame where I applied the paint protection film which is glossy look neat and the top tube, which was matte, has now been polished by my legs after thousands of miles and it looks great as well.

Its personal preference (matte or gloss), but I don't think you will be disappointed with gloss.  It is subtle until the light hits it.

Thanks man!

I'm 95% ready with my paint job design! Just the final details are missing.

I'll post a link to my build thread on German forum soon.

[casual_build]

Ordered my frame last week - super excited to receive it. I did decide to size down to a L (I am 188cm tall) to keep a bit quicker handling and climbing.

A few questions:
1. What is the max rotor size the rear will accept? hoping to go 203mm up front and 180mm out back.
2. Are most people ditching the headset that they include? I opted for it as it was pretty cheap. Not sure about quality.
3. Does the frame come with hardware bushing required for the upper shock mount (8mmx22.2mm).
4. I've seen people saying you should open up all the bearings on the rear link and grease them. I think I'll be doing that (not a question I guess..)

Went with custom paint job too! Will post a pic when I receive it in the next month or so.

I've got 180 out back on mine. It does require the 160/180 adapter and is a very tight fit. I'm guessing the frame wasn't designed to accommodate them! However, it works, it's a tight fit and your tools rub on the seatstays when installing. I'll be dropping down to a 160 soon.

regarding #1: 180mm for the rear is fine, you need a post mount adapter for sure.

I have a little story about this. I am using 180mm Magura rotors in the front and rear. Magura rotors use torx 25 screws. With my torque wrench, I could only access the futherest back rear screw from a terrible angle. All at once, the screw head stripped becoming a perfect circle hole. I was so terrified. Found out online vice grips are pretty good for removing stripped screws from the side. Moving a few mm at a time, it took me an hour and half to unscrew it with vice grips.

I replaced that screw with this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0769ZRW7B/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Which I could tighten with an alan key straight on.

The lesson learned is to make sure you have a 'key' to tighten that rear screw. Alan keys are great, if you are using a torque 25 screw. You will need something like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005G3B4HE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

As #2, The headset is just okay. I am using it. I put a TI screw in that too. When you get it, check the bearings with your hands, Mine gave a small bit or resistance in one spot but, its impercievable when in use. Make sure be generous with the grease!

#3 No you need this https://www.worldwidecyclery.com/products/fox-rear-shock-mounting-hardware-8mm-x-22-19mm-0-874-5-piece-aluminum-1

[carbonazza]

Anyone ordered a BSA model and received it recently?
I did order about 15 pages on this thread ago , and still no sign of production.

[Vipassana]

Anyone ordered a BSA model and received it recently?
I did order about 15 pages on this thread ago , and still no sign of production.

Just go with the press-fit setup.  Remember, Loctite is your best friend, bearings aren't too expensive, and if all else fails, turn the volume up on your earbuds to tune out the creaking. 

(BB30 is junk, but I have made it work without creaking over the past 6 years with Loctite and annual bearing replacement/servicing...)

[theirishrider]

Anyone ordered a BSA model and received it recently?
I did order about 15 pages on this thread ago , and still no sign of production.

I ordered this: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32896597801.html?spm=2114.12010612.8148356.2.749f4f0dI16PK5

Looks pretty easy to put into the frame if this is anything to go by:

[wfl3]

Anyone ordered a BSA model and received it recently?
I did order about 15 pages on this thread ago , and still no sign of production.

Just go with the press-fit setup.  Remember, Loctite is your best friend, bearings aren't too expensive, and if all else fails, turn the volume up on your earbuds to tune out the creaking. 

(BB30 is junk, but I have made it work without creaking over the past 6 years with Loctite and annual bearing replacement/servicing...)

Yep, I've had no issues with PF30 or PF92 on any bikes so far - this is over the last 4 years.   FM936 has been silent for 350 miles so far just using a SRAM BB.

BB30 on the other hand is complete garbage IMO. 

[carbonazza]

...Just go with the press-fit setup...

All my bikes are PF, but the hole of BB92 is only 41mm, which leaves not much room for bearings around a 29/30mm spindle.
The bearings are just to thin to last, on the dry, and even more if you ride in the wet.

[carbonazza]

I ordered this: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32896597801.html?spm=2114.12010612.8148356.2.749f4f0dI16PK5

I have it on my MTB, but the PF30 version for a 46mm frame hole instead of 41mm.
The ZTTO BB shell is nicely done, very comparable to the much more expensive ones from WheelsMFG.
The bearings coming with the BB were crap and I changed them. But these are the sturdy and cheap 6806.

In the case of BB86/92, you'll see the bearings are thin, small balls, that do not resist long to the forces.
And seize very rapidly if ridden in the wet or mud.
BB92 is a Shimano standard, that is designed for 24mm spindles.

[adroitrider]

I was close to going 24mm spindle but the weight savings...

[theirishrider]

I was close to going 24mm spindle but the weight savings...

Ah yes the m9100 XTR is 544g for 34 and the XT is 633g for 34T. Decent weight saving!

So I've finally finished ordering all my parts!! To get the full Shimano XT groupset (brakes 'n all) it took 4 different online shops and a massive excel sheet to find the cheapest combination. Things were going out of stock while I was it was going from the basket to checkout - a little annoying. In total I had to buy from 8 different shops. Please don't ask me how much I spent because I'll have to put a "=SUM(...)"  on the Excel and I think I'll cry at the results  . - But hey! cheaper than the NS! And arguably I got a better spec than the NS - carbon wheels and better brakes IMO.

One question I do have it.. how do I use those little plastic pipes to route my cables?

[Colt__Seavers]

I ordered this: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32896597801.html?spm=2114.12010612.8148356.2.749f4f0dI16PK5

I have it on my MTB, but the PF30 version for a 46mm frame hole instead of 41mm.
The ZTTO BB shell is nicely done, very comparable to the much more expensive ones from WheelsMFG.
The bearings coming with the BB were crap and I changed them. But these are the sturdy and cheap 6806.

In the case of BB86/92, you'll see the bearings are thin, small balls, that do not resist long to the forces.
And seize very rapidly if ridden in the wet or mud.
BB92 is a Shimano standard, that is designed for 24mm spindles.

when you want to have the FM936 frame with PF92, you should then use a 24mm spindle. simple as that! Or you accept to interchange bearings every ones in a while. Use a bottom bracket where both sides get screwed together, to have best alignment and be robust.
there is also a two ball row solution which is more sturdy by "enduro"
https://nsmb.com/articles/searching-30mm-bb92-solution/