Carbonda fm936 Thoughts

[dan_cx]

 For everyone running a RockShox Deluxe Nude with a two-position remote (TwistLoc, OneLoc, etc), how has the rear shock action been? I know that there is a difference in the amount of cable pull between the two-position remotes and the Nude-specific three-position ones, so the "locked" position winds up deep into the "trail/firm" setting instead of fully locked. How does the suspension action/feel when the rear end is "locked" using a two-position remote? Any noticeable bobbing under hard efforts, etc? The RS-1 going on the front has the C2 damper, which is either open or locked, so I can't use a CTD style remote lever. Besides the CTD levers looking like an awful mess of cables everywhere, I need to keep that space on the bars free for the Reverb remote.

[Zomb1e]

Want to show you probably the most cost effective build in this epic thread - sub $2150 and sub 11.9 kg.
I was building it as do-it-all bike (for a guy with xc background), staying on budget but without major compromises in performance. Most parts were new, some second hand and some were taken from my spare parts box.

Specs (without some minor parts):
frame: Carbonda FM936, L, BSA73, matte black
shock: SR Suntour Unair LO-R8 165x40
fork:   Manitou Markhor boost 120mm
wheels: Duroc 30 rims + ARC hubs + Sapim D-Light
tyres: Nobby Nic 2.35 + Rocket Ron 2.25
cranks: Descendant 6K DUB 170mm
chainring: 32T 3mm offset
bottom bracket: Sram DUB-BSA
shifter: GX 12sp
chain: YBN S12 S2
cassette: Sroad 10-50T 12sp
derailleur: SLX RD-M7100
dropper: Brand-X 150mm
dropper lever: ZTTO
saddle: Chineese carbon
brakes: Formula RX
rotors: Toopre 180F 160R
pedals: CrankBros Candy X
handlebar: low-riser 720x9
grips: Chineese silicone
barends: Meroca
stem: 35mm
bottle cage: "Bontrager" carbon

[ilyamaksimov]

Thanks both of you! I was aware that other 165 shocks are all the same. I just wasn't sure if the proprietary nude changed something that effected that or what size the spacers were. Thanks for all the info!

I think I will go down the same route as you ilyamaksimov. I too would like a little more sensitivity at the beginning. I'm also intrigued by the reduced travel traction mode.

I'm sorry, the stroke measurements were incorrect, the correct stroke is 40mm. Should have squeezed harder on the initial measurement.

the rest of the information is correct

--

yes, i combined it with the old twinlock remote

[dan_cx]

The frame arrived on Monday. Packed quite well, no damage, won't bore you with the things we all already know. Tossed on some spare wheels, a fork, post, saddle & bars, just to see how it will shape up. I'm going to use the build as part of a short film project, so it's probably going to just sit as-is for a little while until filming starts.

[NathanJudge]

Hello all

Been following this thread for a while and it's part of the reason I've now ordered a FM936 - so thanks.

I now need parts, pretty sure of the spec I'd like but a question around the rear shock -

Do I need a remote lockout?

Pretty sure I've seen a few posts about one not being needed but as I'm planning to race on it (XCO & Marathons) I think I'd like the option for when I'm mashing the pedals out the saddle - issue is suitable shocks with remote lockouts seem at bit rare currently, or at least in the UK so I don't want to have to search/wait for one if its not needed.

Having read the Vitus Rapide Fs review, a stickered up FM936, on Off.Road.CC and the reviewer who I know to be a good MTB racer did comment on how active the suspension was when pedalling even with higher pressure, which I guess is why I'm deliberating so much!

Any thought appreciated

[Zomb1e]

Do I need a remote lockout?

I think yes if you're going to use your bike as race one. And the best option in your case will be a single remote for both fork and shock - see last 3 or 4 pages of this thread, there were some posts about it.

[theirishrider]

Do I need a remote lockout?

Having read the Vitus Rapide Fs review, a stickered up FM936, on Off.Road.CC and the reviewer who I know to be a good MTB racer did comment on how active the suspension was when pedalling even with higher pressure, which I guess is why I'm deliberating so much!

I have the giant anthem fox float dps with 3 pos lockout, not remote.

I'm 70kg and I don't feel all that much bobbing out of the saddle. Even less in the trail mode. different shocks will of course react differently. I don't feel the need to reach for the trail or lockout mode except for fire road climbs or road sections.

[dan_cx]

I think yes if you're going to use your bike as race one. And the best option in your case will be a single remote for both fork and shock - see last 3 or 4 pages of this thread, there were some posts about it.

+1 to this. My 936 and my Norco Revolver FS are both set up for Marathon racing, both using the RockShox TwistLoc remote. One thing that can be guaranteed over the course of an XCM or multi-day stage marathon, is that you will have some long, as in several Kms continuous, steady-state climbs or flat sections. Being able to lock out & conserve energy that would otherwise be negated through (even the best setup) suspension bob, giving you that extra little reserve that the other guy may not have. Of course, there's the "race-winning sprint to the line" that all the marketing types will hype up, but it is another useful example of the lockout.

I can honestly say that having the ability to lock out the suspension was an absolute game-changer for races like Breck Epic, which starts a few of its days with several Kms long paved climbs out of town. Not cycling through the suspension, and subsequently expending that energy made for a much more efficient climb, and a slightly easier day... nothing really easy when the race start is nearly 2 miles/3,000M above sea level!!!

NOTE: If you do decide to run suspension with a remote lockout, pay attention to what the default/"remote unlocked" vs suspension default is. Example: Santa Cruz Blur TR uses Fox F&R units paired to a TwistLoc. The default for the suspension is Locked when the TwistLoc is released, where the Twistloc is designed to be used with suspension that defaults to Open. A broken Twistloc resulted in a completely rigid bike for 2/3 of the longest day of Breck... which included 6.5Km of rocky, technical descending. A simple change to a lever-style lockout switch got things going again, but it is something to be aware of when building up your bike. Check, double-check, and re-check again, that all your parts play well together.

[Zomb1e]

Yesterday I've make a first test ride on our local winter xc track. I've set sags - both front and rear at home, so outside at temperature below zero degrees Celsius I suppose they became pretty close to enduro bike settings Despite this I was surprised by suspension feel: no exceeded bobbing, both front and rear felt quite sensitive at the beginning of travel and rather supportive from middle stroke. Traction at the rear was enough for most of icy climb sections even without spiked tyres.

[qwerty]

 Re: do I need lock out & the Rapide FS review.

I don't race, I ride local XC with lots of climbing, I don't have a remote lockout. I've fitted a Rock Shox super delux RCT shock which seems to suit the frame really well, I never use the full lock out but do sometimes flip the blue compression adjuster for climbing. In the middle position with the fork unlocked it still climbs well.

I run a 32t chainring which lines up with the main pivot, I did briefly try a 30t but found that it bobbed a whole heap which I didn't like so promptly went back to the 32t (the Rapide FS review bike had a 30t). I recommend a 32t chainring and then a cassette to give you the range you need.

[qwerty]

PS: with the trunnion mount any manual lockout is unreachable on the fly, so if that's important to you get a remote lockout.

[NathanJudge]

Thanks for the thoughts re remote lockout or not.

Next question, SIDluxe vs Deluxe Nude.

Had a quick scan of threads page.

Like that the SIDluxe has slightly longer stroke @42.5mm, is lighter and simpler - so in theory easier to set up but that is also my concern with it - don't think you can adjust compression without a tune?

Deluxe Nude I believe is designed for Spark, so a similar bike and pretty sure it'll fit (??), has more adjustment with compression dial but is heavier and less stroke @ 40mm

Think I'm leaning towards the SIDluxe due to longer stroke, weight (getting the SL frame) and they must be confident on the factory compression setting given flagship model but don't want to get if I decide it needs a compression tune!

Again, thoughts appreciated

[numberzero]

Any news of my 936.
In use and abuse since august 2019, the main pivot become a bit loose probably due to tired bearings.
During maintenance there was also a very little play between rocker arm and frame.

After change in static it seems to be back to normal, not tested yet.

I think more than 2 years with the factory bearings is not that bad, none of them was seized by the way but you must consider i avoid riding too much in bad conditions.

[lukwy]

I think more than 2 years with the factory bearings is not that bad, none of them was seized by the way but you must consider i avoid riding too much in bad conditions.

Not bad as for 2 years of riding. Yesterday I just got the frame (SL, large) and started to builing the XC bike. Still waiting for some parts, so nothing yet to show. 

[southernorth]

Where do you actually buy these frames? I can't find a buy button anywhere on the carbonda website.

Cheers.