Carbonda fm936 Thoughts

[lukwy]

Yes, then the chainline will be as the one designed for boost. By the way, the biggest chainring FM936 can accomodate is round 36t and oval 34t (if have 0 offset). I've just tested the 32t oval with -2mm offset, and it works perfect, but is close to the chainstay.

[carbonazza]

Frame has boost spacing, so chainline 52mm is OK. Yesterday I mounted 32t oval chainring (BCD104 for PM spider) with -2mm offset (50mm chainline) and today I'll be testing. It should be also fine.

It looks ok, but maybe not a good idea.
On the 2-3 small cogs the chain crosses more than designed for, and may make contact with the cog just above.
Causing your chain to wear laterally.
I saw that on my Eagle chains, using a non boost PM.
Not a big deal maybe, but think about all those wasted friction watts

[Medico]

Just finished installing the new 120mm link. A pain in the ass it was! I rather install new bearings in the bike.
Got the new link through the germin mtb forum for a reasonable price, but if I had bought it directly from Carbonda I would have returned it. The measurements where the mounting hardware should fit were of by almost 2mm. It should be 30mm it was nearly 28...so had to sand it in shape. But its done.
Hopefully it was worth the trouble going from 42.5 to 45mm stroke. There aren't much reviews of the new link, so bit of a gamble.
Also have to check if I didn't f#cked up the shim tune of my rsmdeluxe ultimate 2023. It was Low compression according to the rs website and trailhead app, but looked different when I opened it compared to the shim tune manual. If I did everything well it should be a medium compression tune now...maybe I will do the rebound as well(but it also looked different...).

We'll see tomorrow. Keep you posted.

[jibão]

Frame has boost spacing, so chainline 52mm is OK. Yesterday I mounted 32t oval chainring (BCD104 for PM spider) with -2mm offset (50mm chainline) and today I'll be testing. It should be also fine.

Using a chainring with 0mm of offset, the chainline will be on the middle of the cassette on this frame?

[NasiLemak]

Hi

I am looking to replace the pivot bearings for this frame

Does anyone have the bearing specs handy - I only have 1 bearing spec from Wing's drawing he sent me. Do you guys buy from Wing or buy locally? Are there any additional parts other than the bearings that I may need to replace with the bearings? I know in one of the bearings there is a metal clip? Does this need to be replaced?

Additionally, does anyone know what size bearing puller/slide hammer I need to remove the bearings?

Thank you! Any information will be really helpful as I am scratching my head here. Love the bike!!

[NasiLemak]

Hi,

Is the Vitus Rapide FS & FM936 exactly the same in terms of getting the same hardware and bearings?

I got 2 assembly drawings, 1 from vitus and 1 from carbonda.

I notice on the carbonda drawing, there is a 'clip' in one of the pivots as Part No. 10.
this doesn't exist in the vitus drawing.

Please let me know what you guys think

[Medico]

Hi,

Is the Vitus Rapide FS & FM936 exactly the same in terms of getting the same hardware and bearings?

I got 2 assembly drawings, 1 from vitus and 1 from carbonda.

I notice on the carbonda drawing, there is a 'clip' in one of the pivots as Part No. 10.
this doesn't exist in the vitus drawing.

Please let me know what you guys think

The clips you mentioned are only in the link for 100mm. In the new link they aren't there anymore. I personally think the older link was a better design; more coverage of the bearings.

So I think the vitus has a slightly different link design... But for your bearings it doens't matter... If it's the same size it's fine.

Ps last sunday I've done the first ride with the new link. More ground clearence, but I've also ridden it with just 25% sag. Felt very direct, but also a bit harsh. Think I need to lower the SAG.

Strangely I need less psi(165psi by 82kg instead of 180psi) with the new link, but could be accounted to the new tune, medium in stead of light...

Someone comments on this?

[Liter]

Just finished installing the new 120mm link. A pain in the ass it was! I rather install new bearings in the bike.
Got the new link through the germin mtb forum for a reasonable price, but if I had bought it directly from Carbonda I would have returned it. The measurements where the mounting hardware should fit were of by almost 2mm. It should be 30mm it was nearly 28...so had to sand it in shape. But its done.
Hopefully it was worth the trouble going from 42.5 to 45mm stroke. There aren't much reviews of the new link, so bit of a gamble.
Also have to check if I didn't f#cked up the shim tune of my rsmdeluxe ultimate 2023. It was Low compression according to the rs website and trailhead app, but looked different when I opened it compared to the shim tune manual. If I did everything well it should be a medium compression tune now...maybe I will do the rebound as well(but it also looked different...).

We'll see tomorrow. Keep you posted.

stupid question, I can change my old FM936 to 120MM just buying a new link and shock?

[NasiLemak]

But for your bearings it doens't matter... If it's the same size it's fine.

So the Vitus specs I recieved may not fit my Fm936?

I have the list of parts from Wing but the bearing spec's aren't on it - just dimensions of the bearings.

Also, should I buy the replacement clip? Or is this re-usable? Does the clip come out with a pair of tweezers?

Just want to minimize downtime during my bearing replacement so I have everything handy.

[OldFish]

stupid question, I can change my old FM936 to 120MM just buying a new link and shock?

The same shock will work but the travel will depend on it's parameters. Ie only 45mm travel shock should have full 120mm of travel. The good news is that most 165 trunion shocks are actually 45mm travel but have spacers to limit it. Ex. I have Sidluxe Select+ which is 37.5x165 it can be converted to 45x165 by removing 7.5mm spacer that is within. The same for 40x165 and 42.5x165, just different size spacers. I am not sure if that applies to all manufacturers though.

Example of it would be https://www.sram.com/globalassets/document-hierarchy/service-manuals/rockshox/rear-suspension/2021-2023-sidluxe-service-manual-english.pdf page 8, the green part. I think there people who commented how they removed it either in this or in mtb-news.de thread dedicated for FM936.

[Medico]

So the Vitus specs I recieved may not fit my Fm936?

I have the list of parts from Wing but the bearing spec's aren't on it - just dimensions of the bearings.

Also, should I buy the replacement clip? Or is this re-usable? Does the clip come out with a pair of tweezers?

Just want to minimize downtime during my bearing replacement so I have everything handy.

Please Search this topic for your answer, it's in here. I know for sure..or open up your frame and look on the bearings.

Clips are re-usable and you should use smalltip plier to get them out.

Good luck

[jibão]

I have a regular M8100 crank (M8100-1), with 52mm chainline, there is 1cm between the chain and the chainstay.

Are you using a 32T round chainring?

[japjoe7]

Quick question... 163cm(5'4") tall, 73.5cm(29") inseem. Size small is appropriate, correct? Would size medium be too much of a stretch?

[Kactusdog]

Hey all, on the 936 in size Medium, have done a handful of rides on it... feeling regrets choosing the SL size M. I am 182 cm with longish legs. It feels cramped at times. A ride I did with lots of tight corners (I live in rocky, chunky Arizona) revealed how awkward I feel on the bike. Then again I could also just be lacking cornering skills. I'm coming from a size L Specialized Fuse with a 170 cranks and a 45mm stem. First time riding a full sus, the hardtail felt so much more straight forward. I ride rough XC with some occasional rough trail.

I heard a lot of cases reading through all the pages for "sizing up", but I am also taking RAD into consideration. But when the suspension (Rockshox RT M rebound, L compression) is active, steering get's wonky. It feels like reach shortens. The straight-line speed is excellent though.

I am currently riding a 50mm stem with 780 bars, but I did also pick up a 75mm stem to lengthen things out. The result was a floppy steering, I'm feeling stuck and not sure if there's anything that can be done to "fix" the fit. I'm open to any ideas y'all may have. If I must go large, wouldn't that make my stem tiny?? I am definitely on the bike to tackle challenging/technical climb, the downhill is a fun bonus

[zilcho]

Hey all, on the 936 in size Medium, have done a handful of rides on it... feeling regrets choosing the SL size M. I am 182 cm with longish legs. It feels cramped at times. A ride I did with lots of tight corners (I live in rocky, chunky Arizona) revealed how awkward I feel on the bike. Then again I could also just be lacking cornering skills. I'm coming from a size L Specialized Fuse with a 170 cranks and a 45mm stem. First time riding a full sus, the hardtail felt so much more straight forward. I ride rough XC with some occasional rough trail.

I heard a lot of cases reading through all the pages for "sizing up", but I am also taking RAD into consideration. But when the suspension (Rockshox RT M rebound, L compression) is active, steering get's wonky. It feels like reach shortens. The straight-line speed is excellent though.

I am currently riding a 50mm stem with 780 bars, but I did also pick up a 75mm stem to lengthen things out. The result was a floppy steering, I'm feeling stuck and not sure if there's anything that can be done to "fix" the fit. I'm open to any ideas y'all may have. If I must go large, wouldn't that make my stem tiny?? I am definitely on the bike to tackle challenging/technical climb, the downhill is a fun bonus

I think you're trying to make this bike something that it isn't. It is a modern geometry, long wheelbase, slack headtube, cross country/down country frame. RAD might be ok for Trail and Enduro builds where you're hitting jumps and needing to pull the front end a lot, personally I think it makes no sense when you have no reference frame for angle, but this bike is closer to a road fit, long and low. I would definitely consider cutting your bars, running a stem that long with wide bars on this frame is going to give weird steering. The long wheelbase can also take time to get used to for maneuvering tight turns, but it is very much capable of them. I'm 188cm on a size large with a 60mm stem and 750mm bars that I might cut to 740, otherwise it the fit is great and no issue with steering.