Carbonda Cfr 1056

[jstrawks]

Not OP, but I used the internal cable routing kit by ZTTO. Worked well enough.

https://a.aliexpress.com/_mL66WMP

Thanks!

[cme]

How did you specify your bar/stem? What were the options you were offered?

The Handlebar CHB1036 comes in these sizes (length*width in mm): 100*400/110*420/120*420/130*440

The link is here: http://www.carbonda.com/accessory/handlebar/109.html

What is this "fishing kit"?

Apologies for my imprecision, "internal routing cable tool" is a better key search term. As per usual, Park makes one and a dozen other brands sell similar for 1/4 the price.

The Carbonda spacers and the FSA spacers all detach in the middle?

Yes - Carbonda horizontally (looking at spacer from the side, there is a vertical line up the middle), FSA diagonally (i.e., asymmetrically). I think the FSA fit together better and were well worth the cost to upgrade.

Would you have chosen BSA68 over the pressfit if you had the option?

When I ordered, BSA wasn't available in quantity of 1 (implying I had to place a larger, B2B, order...) - and I would have taken that over the PF as additional insurance against creaking.

What size is it? And what depth are the wheels?

This was a size M & rims are 56mm depth. 31mm tires in this picture - & they clear with no problem (specified max width is 32mm).

[fattyrice]

Just placed an order for the 1056 a few days back. Wing was an absolute pleasure to deal with. Looks like they only have BSA BBs now? I was asking if they had any complaints of debonding/stripping of the bottom bracket for BSA and got this response.

"Our BSA-68 has never had the problem of stripping, because most customers prefer BSA, so we changed to BSA, and we should not change back to BB86 in the future."

[Aesch]

Cool, I really look forward to receiving the frame. Mine is a size 58 and also BSA. Can't wait to build it!

I'll be combining ultegra and GRX parts to get me a really flexible bike to use all-round and for holidays.
Curious to see how it will ride with the wheelset i just built with wide slicks for 'bad weather' (32mm contis, this is my road wheelset for the 696 gravelbike that's already in the stable  ). Road riding at 3.5 bar is increadibly smooth.

[jstrawks]

The Handlebar CHB1036 comes in these sizes (length*width in mm): 100*400/110*420/120*420/130*440

Thanks for the responses.

It looks like the underside of the bar/stem has a cover for the routing that's held on with two, longitudinal bolts. Is that correct? Are they situated to be compatible with common mounts for integrated cockpits for Garmin/Wahoo-type gps devices?

[Aesch]

Wing told me:

The CHB1036 will have two mounts at this place (see attached picture) .

 I guess something like og-evkin cm 005 should fit ( i have one ready to try )
 

[jstrawks]

Wing told me:

The CHB1036 will have two mounts at this place (see attached picture) .

 I guess something like og-evkin cm 005 should fit ( i have one ready to try )

It's a trick of perspective, but it's not really clear from that photo if the bolts are fore/aft or left/right.

If they're fore/aft, I'd like to use this mount:

https://www.competitivecyclist.com/wahoo-fitness-elemnt-bolt-two-bolt-out-front-mount

[jstrawks]

Routing hydraulics was fine. I used a fishing kit & electrical tape. If not for the kit, it probably would have been Very Hard as the hose is not very flexible and there are a couple tight turns.

As an aside - it's tough to keep slack on these hoses within the frame, but there is some play on the routing inside the handlebar to hold some slack. I presume the hose just bends horizontally within the flat section. That's great for me, since I don't want to have to recut the hose if I remove spacers & adjust height. Also the spacers all detach in the middle meaning you don't have to completely disassemble everything to add/remove one or two.

cme, I have another hydraulic routing question.

I understand that with internal routing the line for the front caliper runs from the left lever into the handlebar, through the handlebar and stem, through the holes at the front of the headset spacers and top cap, into the hole in the steerer tube, down inside the left fork leg and then exits above the caliper. Is that correct?

What I don't understand is the routing for the right lever/rear caliper. How does the hydralic line get from the spacer/top cap holes to the down tube?

Since it doesn't go into the hole in the steerer, does it just wrap around behind the steerer and exit the head tube and into the down tube? Is there no issue with the steerer rubbing on the hydraulic line?

[FHS]

cme, I have another hydraulic routing question.

I understand that with internal routing the line for the front caliper runs from the left lever into the handlebar, through the handlebar and stem, through the holes at the front of the headset spacers and top cap, into the hole in the steerer tube, down inside the left fork leg and then exits above the caliper. Is that correct?

What I don't understand is the routing for the right lever/rear caliper. How does the hydralic line get from the spacer/top cap holes to the down tube?

Since it doesn't go into the hole in the steerer, does it just wrap around behind the steerer and exit the head tube and into the down tube? Is there no issue with the steerer rubbing on the hydraulic line?

Apologies if I've missed anything, since I haven't been following the thread too closely regarding cabling.

But, yes, on a typical integrated installation through the usual Chinese handlebar/stem, the rear brake line goes through the spacers, through the notch in the lock ring, into the head tube down the front of the steerer, then wraps around the steerer into the down tube. You'll get some rubbing, but it won't be enough to damage the hydraulic lines. It shouldn't be wrapped tight enough to restrict the steering. You'll have more issues getting the hydraulic lines and shift cable housing down through the spacers and lock ring.

[jstrawks]

Apologies if I've missed anything, since I haven't been following the thread too closely regarding cabling.

But, yes, on a typical integrated installation through the usual Chinese handlebar/stem, the rear brake line goes through the spacers, through the notch in the lock ring, into the head tube down the front of the steerer, then wraps around the steerer into the down tube. You'll get some rubbing, but it won't be enough to damage the hydraulic lines. It shouldn't be wrapped tight enough to restrict the steering. You'll have more issues getting the hydraulic lines and shift cable housing down through the spacers and lock ring.

Thanks. That's very helpful.

[cme]

Agree on the internal cable routing. I don't hear any rubbing (or rattling).

Handlebar bolts are fore/aft. The Geometry tab has the dimensions (i.e., M5 bolts on 44mm spacing). There is not a cover per se that can detach to help with cable routing (at least mine didn't have a removable cover), these bolts are just threaded into the handlebar.

Cobbled together a second, commuter version, from a mish mash of parts tonight. I'm done bike building for a while.

Also, weird that the preview is upside down...

[Aesch]

not bad for a commuterbike 

[jstrawks]

Agree on the internal cable routing. I don't hear any rubbing (or rattling).

Handlebar bolts are fore/aft. The Geometry tab has the dimensions (i.e., M5 bolts on 44mm spacing). There is not a cover per se that can detach to help with cable routing (at least mine didn't have a removable cover), these bolts are just threaded into the handlebar.

Cobbled together a second, commuter version, from a mish mash of parts tonight. I'm done bike building for a while.

Also, weird that the preview is upside down...

What are the two bolts for if they're not for the removal of a cover? They're they're for externally mounting things like GPS?

I want to say that I'm very glad there's a dedicated 1056 thread here with input from several people who've done builds similar to what I have in mind.

I'm close to making the decision that I'm not going to use the integrated bar/stem. I don't like giving up the flexibility of changing reach/width and bar angle. So I'm thinking of using this bar:

https://www.wiggle.com/prime-doyenne-aero-handlebar

On this stem:

https://www.bikeinn.com/bike/fsa-os-160-acr-non-series-stem/137705144/p?utm_source=google_products&utm_medium=merchant&id_producte=11450724&country=us

With this headset (or the internal routing stem that Carbonda can provide):

https://shop.fullspeedahead.com/en/headsets/road-mtb/no-55r-1-5-acr

I have three questions I hope you folks can help me with.

1. On bars like the Carbonda integrated, or on stems like the one linked above, how is the headset bearing preload adjusted? Is there a top cap for tightening under that cover? Is that cover somehow used for preloading the bearing?

2. On the handlebar linked above, there are five routing holes. Two are right near the shifters, two are more toward the stem, and on is in the center. I presume the two near the stem are exit points for cables and hoses than don't route internally and that I would just bypass them, bringing my two hydraulic lines out the center hole, through the stem, headset and steerer/down tube (respectively). For those with experience with hydraulic lines, is that 90-degree bend workable, or clearly too tight?

You can see that center hole in this image:

https://www.wigglestatic.com/product-media/102430670/Prime-Doyenne-Aero-Handlebar-Aero-Bars-Black-PDAH440-12.jpg

3. Do any of you have any opinion on whether the FSA headset linked above would be fully interchangeable with the Carbonda integrated headset and whether there are any advantages or disadvantages to using it, over the one I can order with the frame?

Thanks.

[FHS]

For the FSA ACR system, the top cover is cosmetic. You'll adjust the pre load using the hex nut on the compression plug.

Yes, the center hole on the bars is where you'll route your lines through the stem. I use an FSA ACR headset and compression plug  on my TanTan X21, but I've never used the complete ACR system.  I'll just say that any 90 degree bend is going to be problematic. If you have a 1.5 to 1.5 headset on your frame, it should, for the most part be compatible, but YMMV. None of the bearings I used, the ones provided nor the FSA ones fit exactly. ID and OD were not the problem, they are all a snug fit. The stack height varies a lot between bearing sets. Microspacers took care of that issue though.

[jstrawks]

You'll adjust the pre load using the hex nut on the compression plug.

Thanks.

I'll expose my ignorance here, as I don't understand this.

As far as I know (not very far), tightening the hex nut on a compression plug expands it so that it grips the inside of the steerer, and that's all tightening it does. It's tightening the top cap on top of the stem that draws the steerer upwards, preloading the bearings.

What am I getting wrong?