TanTan TT-X21 frame

[adriaanm]

I built a di2 bike using a yoeleo r11 frame a few months ago. My thread has an exhaustive list of the components you need. Happy to help/clarify.

[FHS]

Good site. I would have loved to have gone SRAM at the outset, but availability was a serious issue back then. Now, I'm just heading down the Shimano upgrade path. Thanks again!

[Velovelo]

Hi all. Just want to add as a note for anyone looking to get the TT-X21 / vb-r-099 frame set. Make sure to put the seat post setback into account when measuring the top tube / reach / Handlebar length.
This also goes for any frame with a seat post that is proprietary to the frameset.
Ya, my 099 / TT-X21 seat post setback is so backward that my knees does not track with the center of my pedals at 3 O'clock pedal position. Not to mention the fact that the seat post setback makes me stretch too far forward to reach my handlebars. This was an expensive oversight when measuring the top tube and reach based on my previous road bike frame which had a zero setback seat post. Not to mention that these frames have no resale value because they are none branded. You just have to get a new frameset.
TanTan and Velobuild do not have zero setback seat post for this frame or any of their frames with a proprietary seat post.
So I am looking at getting the BXT-ROAD-115 or VB-R-177 because you can run a standard 27.2 seat post with a zero setback if you want.

[SCassa]

TanTan and Velobuild do not have zero setback seat post for this frame or any of their frames with a proprietary seat post.


The major reason I pass over a lot of frames. My FM066sl with 27.2 seat post is still going strong. 

[pearl]

Has anyone built this frame up with a 32mm tire? This seems to be high on my list of road race frames than can fit a 32.

[BrianO]

Mine is running fine on 28mm.
Loads of clearance!

[poyo]

Has anyone built this frame up with a 32mm tire? This seems to be high on my list of road race frames than can fit a 32.

Yes fits well, I have a Velobuild vb-r-099 is the same as TT-X21.

[timjen]

I think this may be an issue with TanTan frames, with small differences from one frame to the next, maybe. My issue was never with setting the ring correctly. The TanTan ring would snap nicely into the TanTan bearing all the time. My problem was the stack height for the bearings + crown race + ring was never right.

I actually have two different headsets, the TanTan supplied one and an FSA ACR. The bearings are all 1.5 36 + 45 and all fit into the frame's 1.5" inch integrated cups snugly, without play, but they are all different heights. Between the 4 bearings, 2 rings, and 2 crown races, the stack height can be all over the place. Using any combination of pieces, I either had a stack height that locked up my steering against the head tube before tightening the headset, at the top cap or the forks, or even both, or just wouldn't allow tightening the headset at all.

Those spacers I got from my lbs were just the trick. They allowed me to dial in the stack height of the top bearing and ring. I just had to have a bottom bearing and crown race that fit well enough to not lock up the steering at the forks after tightening down the headset. All good now.

I think if you use the thicker TanTan bearing at the bottom, and the thinner bearing at the top, you can adjust the height at the top cap and still have enough space at the forks.

Hope thate makes sense.

Hi all,

I am writing, because I am very upset with the support of TanTan (not my superb TT-X21 Frame) ... I rode it for 1300km right now and it's really fast. Unfortunally I've got the same problems at the front end - the bar allways feels a bit loose after some miles - so I guess I have the same issues than some of you here. TanTan won't help me - instead I should buy another bar/stem and another headset, so it's on my to solve the problem: My suggestions would be the ACR headset and another compression ring (where do I get that?), maybe spacers (it looks like room is enough between cover and headtube). Another idea is to change to this here: Ritchey Comp Logic-E. Do you think that should work/fit? I only can read 45 degrees on this bearing. With this headset cover I would change to another stem/bar. Am I right that with this one I would have the use of the half compression ring?

https://www.bike-discount.de/de/ritchey-comp-logic-e-cartridge-drop-in-1.5-steuersatz-oberteil?number=20091772&__delivery=2&__currency=1&gclid=CjwKCAiAo4OQBhBBEiwA5KWu_-DE6SHPBb5cR-0Ikhyw8vfaGxB39HlHeeZgIHEdZ-Uc4XAjB0yvTBoC4SsQAvD_BwE

I really need your help here - don't want to break something when going fast with this beast...

Best wishes from Germany,
Tim

[J-S-Q]

Hi all,

I am writing, because I am very upset with the support of TanTan (not my superb TT-X21 Frame) ... I rode it for 1300km right now and it's really fast. Unfortunally I've got the same problems at the front end - the bar allways feels a bit loose after some miles - so I guess I have the same issues than some of you here. TanTan won't help me - instead I should buy another bar/stem and another headset, so it's on my to solve the problem: My suggestions would be the ACR headset and another compression ring (where do I get that?), maybe spacers (it looks like room is enough between cover and headtube). Another idea is to change to this here: Ritchey Comp Logic-E. Do you think that should work/fit? I only can read 45 degrees on this bearing. With this headset cover I would change to another stem/bar. Am I right that with this one I would have the use of the half compression ring?

https://www.bike-discount.de/de/ritchey-comp-logic-e-cartridge-drop-in-1.5-steuersatz-oberteil?number=20091772&__delivery=2&__currency=1&gclid=CjwKCAiAo4OQBhBBEiwA5KWu_-DE6SHPBb5cR-0Ikhyw8vfaGxB39HlHeeZgIHEdZ-Uc4XAjB0yvTBoC4SsQAvD_BwE

I really need your help here - don't want to break something when going fast with this beast...

Best wishes from Germany,
Tim

Can you describe your problem in more detail? You say "the bar allways feels a bit loose after some miles".
If everything is fine to begin with, but then a problem is developing after some period of using the bike, then clearly something must be moving/slipping/loosening.

Here are a few thoughts:

-Are you sure you're tightening the stem clamp enough? The two stem clamp bolts on my bike had some excess metal fragments in them which made it difficult to tighten them properly. I felt I was making the bolts really tight but the stem would still not grip the steerer tube enough. I had to clear out the metal fragments in order to make it work properly.

-Have you tried using carbon paste between the stem clamp and steerer tube?

-When you tighten everything up, is your steering perfectly smooth? If it is not smooth and you can feel grinding/rubbing/friction or any movement/wobbling then you probably need some spacers. These are the ones I used: https://shop.fullspeedahead.com/en/spacers/road-mtb/micro-spacer

-Have you tightened the compression plug enough before tightening the stem? I used this compression plug: https://www.lordgunbicycles.co.uk/deda-70-mm-headset-expander-plug-for-1-1-8-carbon-forks-1 It was a pretty tight fit but it works very well once installed (on a Velobuild R-099 which I believe is the same frame as the TT-X21).

-Are you sure you trimmed your steerer tube short enough to allow the compression plug to do it's job?

[FHS]

Hi Tim,

I My first issue was a slipping compression plug. If that's your only issue, here's what comes with the FSA ACR headset, minus the hole for the brake line, which you do not need.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/FSA-Pro-Compression-Plug-With-Top-Cap-/274059545505?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0

My second problem which I thought I could solve with a completely new FSA ACR headset was the bars binding if the top cap was tightened, even just enough to load the bearings. For that, I just needed a couple of microspacers.

Turns out, just a new compression plug and microspacers probably would have been enough. I do like the FSA ACR bearings and compression ring, along with the compression plug, a lot better though. It all works fine with the stock TanTan top cover and spacers.

Good luck!

[timjen]

Good luck!

Wow - really helpful input here within some hours. Thank you so much - seems to be a great helpful forum here.

It's very difficult to discribe my problems in english, so I hope I don't forget something. In fact one of my worries is, that my steerer tube is a litte bit to long an so the top-cap doesn't work right. I will post a picture later.
I did a lot of research and try and error with a compression plug and it finally endet with a very long (and heavy one) - my favourite Specialized Plug won't work because it lies on the steerer tube and then I don't have enough space for the cap (same level plug and stem).

In fact it feels like the first few miles are ok and then something feels loose (in fact nothing is lose) - so my guess was, that the half-compression ring has to much clearance or something like that. If I pull my frontbreak and move the rest of the bike (by holding the frame) I feel the movement and a little cracking sound.

I didn't come to a ride so far, but my first thought was to use another spacer to get the stem higher --> top cap problem, so I will try this.

Unfortunally they send me the one bolt bar/stem and say that I have to buy the 2 bolt for XX€.

As you can see I am very upset with the whole front-end and don't now why: bar/stem, headset, compression ring...

[FHS]

Yeah, headset issues are frustrating. Just take it one step at a time.

Regarding cutting the steerer tube, everything I saw said to cut the tube 3 mm below the top of the stem. Unfortunately, the stock TanTan top cap has a lip and the bottom of the cap extends a couple of mm into the stem. The first time I cut the steerer, there just wasn't enough space under the top cap to load the headset properly. I put a 5 mm spacer above the stem which took care of that issue without having to cut the steerer again.

I think maybe, we are not being clear about what a microspacer is though? A head set spacer fits either under the stem or over the stem, but it goes above the headset cover. Microspacers fit under the headset cover, on top of the compression ring.

https://www.jensonusa.com/FSA-Headset-Microspacers

The do the same thing as a spacer placed above the stem. You get a little more space to tighten down the top cap. But, they do that by lifting the top cover slightly, just enough so that your head set cover doesn't bind against the top of your head set cup when you tighten the top cap bolt. I used snips to cut a notch to match the notch in the compression ring, but they finally fixed the biggest issue with my head set which was the stack height of the bearings.

[timjen]

This is the spacer-setup I want to ride -  in my view the top cap lies on the stem, but as written it could be, that the steerer tube is too long. Yesterday I did my first ride this year with this bike and  used one more spacer. It feels better, but not perfect - I still hear a clicking sound if I pull the frontbrake and move the frame. I heard something about electrical band here - could this be helpful?

And another question: how to cut the steerer tube for 2-3mm with the brake-routing mounted?   

[FHS]

This is the spacer-setup I want to ride -  in my view the top cap lies on the stem, but as written it could be, that the steerer tube is too long. Yesterday I did my first ride this year with this bike and  used one more spacer. It feels better, but not perfect - I still hear a clicking sound if I pull the frontbrake and move the frame. I heard something about electrical band here - could this be helpful?

And another question: how to cut the steerer tube for 2-3mm with the brake-routing mounted?

Yeah, you need to either add a spacer or cut the steerer tube for starters, then go from there. If you don't want to mess up your handlebar height, you can add a 5mm spacer above the stem. That's probably the easiest thing to do. 

Here's the video I watched when I needed to cut the steerer, but I didn't want to reroute the brake hoses. It still works for integrated handlebars, you just don't have as much hose to work with when you need to move the bars out of the way. I don't have a fancy cutting guide. I just use a cheap and appropriately sized hose clamp.

[Velovelo]

"I've been told that the cost to open a mould for a zero setback seatpost for the 099 is $500 (assume the same for 168).  They don't want to front it.

Any interest from owners or potential buyers? I'd put $50 down.  Only 9 others needed to cover cost of mould."


https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,3102.msg34409.html#msg34409


If you are interest in a zero setback seat post for the TT-X21 you can checkout the 099 conversation in the above link.