FM1001 / FM1156 - 135mm frame

[FullCarbonAlchemist]

I too would like the complete FM1001/1002 bearing specs (I think they use the same on both frames). I haven’t noticed any obvious issues yet but want to upgrade to Enduro Max bearings.

[Draz]

I too would like the complete FM1001/1002 bearing specs (I think they use the same on both frames). I haven’t noticed any obvious issues yet but want to upgrade to Enduro Max bearings.

Enduro bearings any good? My local auto hardware stores supplies ntn,nsk,skf,nrb. I'm able to find my bearing sizes namely 6800&6902 not sure which maker tho. I don't think they are bike specific but rubber seal ones should work right?

Factory bearing is attached, im very skeptical about grease quality and thinking about replacing bearing before the first year.

[FullCarbonAlchemist]

Enduro bearings any good? My local auto hardware stores supplies ntn,nsk,skf,nrb. I'm able to find my bearing sizes namely 6800&6902 not sure which maker tho. I don't think they are bike specific but rubber seal ones should work right?

Factory bearing is attached, im very skeptical about grease quality and thinking about replacing bearing before the first year.

Enduro Max is specifically for MTB suspension pivots and Santa Cruz is always boasting about how they include them with free replacements on all their FS bikes for life. They’re generally considered the best, both in terms of how the bearings and shells hold up as well as the quality of the seals.

I’ve run them on my GT Force for two very intense years of big mountain riding with only a slight creak recently that finally got me to replace them. No other bearing has lasted more than a few months on that bike…it takes a seriously brutal pounding on the rocks in the mountains of Maine and logs a ton of vert.

I’ve got about 250 miles on my FM1002 and to be honest I’m rather impressed that the OEM bearings aren’t smoked yet. I have absolutely not been gentle, and the bike has been rinsed with a hose many times as well as absolutely sandblasted with fine granite dust.

[bossman302]

Enduro bearings any good? My local auto hardware stores supplies ntn,nsk,skf,nrb. I'm able to find my bearing sizes namely 6800&6902 not sure which maker tho. I don't think they are bike specific but rubber seal ones should work right?

Factory bearing is attached, im very skeptical about grease quality and thinking about replacing bearing before the first year.

Enduro seems to be the standard for MTB. Like FullCarbonAlchemist said they are specifically for MTB. In my quest for searching for bearings NTN seems to be another high quality brand but they are not bike specific.

Is that a picture of the lower shock bearing? Which frame do you have, 1001 or 1002? If reading the numbers correctly that's a 6902 which is 15mmx28mmx7mm.

[bossman302]

I too would like the complete FM1001/1002 bearing specs (I think they use the same on both frames). I haven’t noticed any obvious issues yet but want to upgrade to Enduro Max bearings.

Would assume they are the same as well.

I haven't noticed any issues with other than when removing the shock but I'm coming up on 500miles on this frame so who knows. There seems to be very little movement at the lower shock mount so thinking maybe a bushing would be better...

I am fortunate to have the drawing for the FM1001 and I've highlighted what should be the bearings in yellow.

Line 22 is the lower shock bearings
Line 10 rocker and the lower chain stay main pivot
Line 4 is the lower chain stay (rear axel) and upper seat stay (seat stay attaches to the rocker arm) bearings

Not sure what bearing lines 10/4 are. 4 might be the 6901.... Just not sure what 26.5 or 30.5 represents

[Bajker]

The bearings should be full compliment (usually called max in the bike world), that's the most important for frame bearings. The hardware store ones are usually with a cage.

[Draz]

Enduro seems to be the standard for MTB. Like FullCarbonAlchemist said they are specifically for MTB. In my quest for searching for bearings NTN seems to be another high quality brand but they are not bike specific.

Is that a picture of the lower shock bearing? Which frame do you have, 1001 or 1002? If reading the numbers correctly that's a 6902 which is 15mmx28mmx7mm.

I have LC947 thats the rocker arm and dimensions are correct. I'm interested in bearings tho 

The bearings should be full compliment (usually called max in the bike world), that's the most important for frame bearings. The hardware store ones are usually with a cage.

I did a quick research about the bearing type and kinda have conclusion for bearing.
Correct me if I'm wrong.

Caged bearing for faster where there is not much load.

Full compliment for load and slower bearing can also take some shock.

LLU for full contact, better seal and more drag.

LLB for non contact, slightly less seal spec hence less drag.

For pivot bearings LLU and full compliment seems to be the right choice then.

[Freda]

My upper headset cup has developed play. Has anybody else noticed this? The bearings are in good condition but it is impossible to get fork tightened without play. The lower one is still ok.

With a brand frame this would be a warranty issue for sure but with this one I am not sure..

[FullCarbonAlchemist]

My upper headset cup has developed play. Has anybody else noticed this? The bearings are in good condition but it is impossible to get fork tightened without play. The lower one is still ok.

With a brand frame this would be a warranty issue for sure but with this one I am not sure..

You’re confident that this is an issue with the frame and not the OEM headset?

[Freda]

Yes I am. The bearings are fine. Also the fact that I can easily install and remove them by hand without force. The upper one is moving slightly sideways when in place. The lower one is also easy to put there but I don’t notice it moving when in place.

I am trying some thin tape in between now to not make it worse, it seems tight but haven’t ridden it yet.

[Neb]

Yes I am. The bearings are fine. Also the fact that I can easily install and remove them by hand without force. The upper one is moving slightly sideways when in place. The lower one is also easy to put there but I don’t notice it moving when in place.

I am trying some thin tape in between now to not make it worse, it seems tight but haven’t ridden it yet.

I had the same issue with my frame. You need some spacers between the top headset race 'wedge' and the top cap. The top cap is bottoming out on the top of the head tube and therefore not tensioning the bearings.

https://shop.fullspeedahead.com/en/prodotti_1/micro-spacer

To test the fix, I used a 10mm steerer spacer initially under the top cap,it created a big gap between the top of the head tube and the top cap, but there was no movement. Worth a go to confirm.

[Freda]

I had the same issue with my frame. You need some spacers between the top headset race 'wedge' and the top cap. The top cap is bottoming out on the top of the head tube and therefore not tensioning the bearings.

https://shop.fullspeedahead.com/en/prodotti_1/micro-spacer

To test the fix, I used a 10mm steerer spacer initially under the top cap,it created a big gap between the top of the head tube and the top cap, but there was no movement. Worth a go to confirm.

This sound logical! The bearings have a cone shape so might work. I have one thin spacer that came with the headset, but maybe that is not enough. I need to get more of those thin spacer to try.

The thin tape is also working, but it is more of a ghetto solution. Two rides now and so far so good.

[Neb]

This sound logical! The bearings have a cone shape so might work. I have one thin spacer that came with the headset, but maybe that is not enough. I need to get more of those thin spacer to try.

The thin tape is also working, but it is more of a ghetto solution. Two rides now and so far so good.

I think I needed 3 to remove all the play in the headset. It was really confusing as I was tightening the preload so much the bearings felt rough, but still had a loose headset. It has been rock solid since I added the extra 2 spacers

[bossman302]

Interesting. I didn't have any issues with the OE headset. Only had to use one of the thin spacers that came with it. I did develop a creak that I thought was the headset (but turned out the be a loose bottom bracket). When taking apart the headset I noticed corrosion/rust on the thin metal spacer and the upper race. Guessing this happened from washing the bike. Since the OE top cap doesn't have anything to keep water from getting in be careful with adding more spacers. Believe FullCarbonAlchemist had the same issue. Ended up ditching the OE headset and now using the FSA headset to hopefully avoid any future problems.

[carbonazza]

The cheap headsets you get from the frame builders or from Aliexpress for $10-15 are perfectly valid.
Just put a generous amount of marine grease on top of each bearings and they will last as long as the branded headsets you may try.
Stainless steel bearings from Aliexpress last a bit longer, but maybe not worth the extra cost.