Chinertown
Chinese Carbon MTB => 29er => Topic started by: Bajker on January 03, 2021, 02:36:26 PM
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135mm Frame with modern geometry. Sold by Carbonda as FM1001 and Flybike Asia as FM1156 at the moment.
USE: Trail full suspension
Weight: 2300±50g(M)
BB(bottom bracket): BSA-73；to order
Headset size: 1/2" 1-1/12 FSA NO.55R-ICR
Axles: R:12*148mm
Seat post diameter: 30.9mm
Seat post clamp size: 34.9mm
Max tire size: 27.5"*2.8" or 29"*2.4"
Max chainring: 36T
Rotor size: 160-180mm
Shock: 185(length)*50mm(travel）:travel：120mm
185(length)*55mm(travel） travel：135mm
Fork Travel: 140mm
Rear wheel Travel: 120/135mm
http://www.carbonda.com/mountain/full-suspension/131.html
http://www.flybike-asia.com/product/254.html
(https://i.imgur.com/1yvJDPC.png)
(https://i.imgur.com/iq4GSsB.png)
(https://i.imgur.com/7ixvqHA.png)
(https://i.imgur.com/K296FPZ.png)
(https://i.imgur.com/RuNEVSs.png)
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Now THAT is some really up to date geo! Crazy!
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Looks fantastic
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The Fm1166 is also interesting:
http://www.flybike-asia.com/product/247.html
and they also have a china Santa cruz looking frame FM1266 ->
http://www.flybike-asia.com/product/251.html
EDIT: Adam told me that they have samples from the Fm1156 for sale, only size M
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Holy shit they have a v10 29 knockoff posted now what the heck! A 29er chinese DH bike, what a time to be alive.
This new batch is going to be insane if they aren't plagued by issues like the legendary hightower clone
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What's the frame weight on the 1156? Wonder how many we'd have to commit to to buy from Flybike?
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The Fm1166 is also interesting:
http://www.flybike-asia.com/product/247.html
and they also have a china Santa cruz looking frame FM1266 ->
http://www.flybike-asia.com/product/251.html
EDIT: Adam told me that they have samples from the Fm1156 for sale, only size M
Did you, by any chance, get a quote for the frame? It's a tempting frame none the less.
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What's the frame weight on the 1156? Wonder how many we'd have to commit to to buy from Flybike?
Adam told me 2,25kg.
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Did you, by any chance, get a quote for the frame? It's a tempting frame none the less.
Price for the Fm1156 720$ without anything.
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No headset? Bottom bracket? Derailleur hanger? Through axel? Nothing? Not that great of a deal. Still a great looking frame. I'm interested. Less interested, but still interested.
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Wow, this frame seems amazing for all mountain riding 8)
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No headset? Bottom bracket? Derailleur hanger? Through axel? Nothing? Not that great of a deal. Still a great looking free. I'm interested. Less interested, but still interested.
I'm not sure "without anything" means no hanger and through axle lol. Maybe he means nothing else included and without any paint or anything like that.
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Only one rear hanger is included, no headset/ rear axle/ seat clamp/ replacement hanger
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720$ frame + derailleur hanger
15$ headset
15$ rear axle
5$ extra derailleur hanger
http://www.carbonda.com/mountain/full-suspension/131.html
edit : link as FM1001
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I sent an info request about size L and they answer i have to wait until July :(
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does July mean December in real life ? ;D
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Well, in my case... January, and still counting.
Going to beat the record ::)
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Those accessory prices are good
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What do you think about this design for my Fm1156?
The Shock Link will be black not white...
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What do you think about this design for my Fm1156?
The Shock Link will be black not white...
I like it. Looks good in all white too.
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Hi guys,
I ordered my FM1156 Medium frame back in July 2020 but it took until early December before Adam finally sent the frame and I received it just in time for Christmas!
It’s too late to test it now as here in Canada it’s fatbike time! I’ll try to post ride impressions next summer!
I fitted the frame with a Fox DPX2 185x55mm and a 140mm Fox 34 Factory Grip2 44mm.
I will change my 30mm Stem for a 60mm Stem because the in the final specs the reach is 26mm shorter.
I recommend you order the frame with their headset as the upper set is not standard.
The lower headset is standard so I used a Cane Creek IS52/40
And don’t forget to order a spare derailleur hanger it’s only 5$!
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Thank you for your feedback. The bike looks really nice!
Do you mean the geometry Chart is not correct?? The top tube is very short because of the steep Seat angle. If you sit on the bike it feels very compact...
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The head tube angle seems very steep and bike very compact.
Can tell us how tall you are and what is your inseam ?
Nice components, very promising on the trails :-)
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Hi Flo7 and QuentinLL !
I'm new to MTB and before 2020 I was only road biking. So when I started MTB my local shop recommended a cross country bike to start riding on easy trails. So I started with a Santa Cruz Blur X01 TR (110mm fork) with Reserve 25 carbon rims.
I've always had medium size bikes as I'm 1.73M with inseam about 31.5 inches.
Anyway after a few rides at Empire 47 in Quebec, Canada, I liked it very much! But eventually I realized that for some trails I would have more fun with a more robust bike. But because of that COVID thing most local shops are overwhelmed by high demand so availability of mtb is scarce, plus a brand new Hightower X01 is a lot of money especially after spending 10K$can on a SC Blur!
So I contacted Adam at Carbonda asking if they had some Trail frame in the works. So the early specs they provided for medium FM1156 was supposed to be already final with Top Tube Length of 598mm which is pretty similar to medium Hightower. Actually the rest of the specs also share similarities with NS Bike Define 130.
But like they say: Specs are subject to changed without notice! And when I received the frame 6 months later, and now that "official specs" are out the Top Tube Length for medium is only 575mm which is obviously noticeable when you ride the bike, it feels very compact. I hope that with a longer Stem the "feel" will be less compact.
As for Head Tube Angle:
My SC Blur TR is 68.5 HTA so I wanted a slacker frame but not too slack as I'm not a fan of neck breaking DH.
So for me 66.5 HTA seemed to be a nice balanced.
But then again in the early spec sheet they wrote 67 HTA with a 130mm fork and now in January we see 65.5 HTA on Carbonda web site.
My new FM1156 certainly looks and feel much slacker than my SC blur TR, but certainly not as slack as 65.5 but I guess I should measure the HTA myself!
Final weight of the rig with I9 Enduro S + Maxxis 2.4 WT = approximately 29.5 pounds
Compared to SC Hightower or Tallboy or NS Define 130, I would say that I saved 15-20% $$ by building the rig myself.
Plus I spent countless hours online to learn how to assemble a bike from scratch, but that was part of the fun, of course!
I'm finishing 2 FM936 for my 2 kids and I'll give my SC Blur to my wife so we can all go for family mtb rides!
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Thank you!
Do you think that the actual geometry chart is correct?
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It sounds like he does not.
You can download an angle finder app on your smart phone.
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Probably steepening the seat tube angle is where the top tube length went. It has to go somewhere when you steepen the seat angle. He can probably get 15-20 mm back by moving the seat back on it's rails a little.
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Hi endo.alley,
You are right: when I discovered the bike's "new specs" and compactness, the first thing I did was to move back the seat on rails and it does help a bit!
I ordered a longer stem and it should arrive soon!
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I went back to my FM1156 with two different Angle apps and I did about 20 measurements with each app. They may be very accurate, but holding the phone exactly the right way to measure the HTA is a challenge!
In the end I would say that the "actual" HTA is between 66.0 and 66.5 degrees! But hey who am I to pretend that I have God's readings haha!
Hope this helps!
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Thank you for measuring that.
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The final Design...
Price with faster Shipping to austria, headset, axle, replacement Hanger, custom paining/ decals and PayPal fees around 1100$
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I find the FM1001 pretty small, don't you ?
I am 1m78 tall. 83cm inseam. On my bikes I have 690mm distance saddle to handlebar and 745mm BB to saddle. I like to have an aggressive position when climbing and a short stem / long reach for aggressive riding on downhill (I never ride on flat trail, only mountains).
I was first interested in the FM936 size L, 30mm stem => 689mm saddle to bar. Perfect for handling on downhill and perfect position for climbing.
I changed my mind and would like to buy a FM1001 that suits better my rinding style (more travel and stiffness). Goal : 11,5 kg for 135/140mm travel MTB.
Size L and 40mm stem would be 659mm saddle to bar. I have to ride saddle 3cm backward. Why not, but I would feel the 78° STA benefit. Plus, i would like to ride 20 stem if possible (and 42mm offset fork) for a perfect handling => saddle to bar would be 640mm.
I think that I will go for a XL frame with 20mm stem => 664mm saddle to bar (and massive 495,5mm reach) + 2cm saddle backward.
Is there somebody who already tried riding a 20mm stem on a long bike ? Do you think that it is completely stupid ?
178cm guy on a XL size :o
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I find the FM1001 pretty small, don't you ?
I am 1m78 tall. 83cm inseam. On my bikes I have 690mm distance saddle to handlebar and 745mm BB to saddle. I like to have an aggressive position when climbing and a short stem / long reach for aggressive riding on downhill (I never ride on flat trail, only mountains).
I was first interested in the FM936 size L, 30mm stem => 689mm saddle to bar. Perfect for handling on downhill and perfect position for climbing.
I changed my mind and would like to buy a FM1001 that suits better my rinding style (more travel and stiffness). Goal : 11,5 kg for 135/140mm travel MTB.
Size L and 40mm stem would be 659mm saddle to bar. I have to ride saddle 3cm backward. Why not, but I would feel the 78° STA benefit. Plus, i would like to ride 20 stem if possible (and 42mm offset fork) for a perfect handling => saddle to bar would be 640mm.
I think that I will go for a XL frame with 20mm stem => 664mm saddle to bar (and massive 495,5mm reach) + 2cm saddle backward.
Is there somebody who already tried riding a 20mm stem on a long bike ? Do you think that it is completely stupid ?
178cm guy on a XL size :o
My thoughts as well, reach to STA ratio is pretty small so it wont fit my body type.
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I find the FM1001 pretty small, don't you ?
I am 1m78 tall. 83cm inseam. On my bikes I have 690mm distance saddle to handlebar and 745mm BB to saddle. I like to have an aggressive position when climbing and a short stem / long reach for aggressive riding on downhill (I never ride on flat trail, only mountains).
I was first interested in the FM936 size L, 30mm stem => 689mm saddle to bar. Perfect for handling on downhill and perfect position for climbing.
I changed my mind and would like to buy a FM1001 that suits better my rinding style (more travel and stiffness). Goal : 11,5 kg for 135/140mm travel MTB.
Size L and 40mm stem would be 659mm saddle to bar. I have to ride saddle 3cm backward. Why not, but I would feel the 78° STA benefit. Plus, i would like to ride 20 stem if possible (and 42mm offset fork) for a perfect handling => saddle to bar would be 640mm.
I think that I will go for a XL frame with 20mm stem => 664mm saddle to bar (and massive 495,5mm reach) + 2cm saddle backward.
Is there somebody who already tried riding a 20mm stem on a long bike ? Do you think that it is completely stupid ?
178cm guy on a XL size :o
Why do you think the Fm1001 is a small/ Short bike??
The TT is short because of the steep seat angle. I think the large would fit perfectly for you...
I will order a "M" for my 170cm. I also have a Spec. Enduro 2020 in S3 and it has the same STR as the Fm1001.
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Did you read my message ? :-)
On my other bikes, the perfect riding position is 690mm saddle to handlebar.
With FM1001 size L, I should ride 85mm stem to be OK => 85mm stem on a trail bike seems completely stupid, right ? As well as fitting the saddle 4cm backward (wouldn't have the benefits of 78° STA).
470mm reach with 78° STA equals 440mm reach with 75° STA => which is very short for L size !
170cm i would definitely go for L size personnaly.
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Reach does not depends on STA?!
Which bike are you riding now?
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Looking at the effective top tube length (O on the geo on the first page), this frame seems to run a full size smaller. XL measures 627mm which is more typical of a large. I like this measure because it shows the distance from the seat post to the center of the head tube, basically center of your seat to your stem. You can adjust fit with stem length or moving your seat, but this gives you a good starting point.
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This is because of the steep STA. If you sit on the Bike the Bike feels very compact, but in the downhill position you have enough space/distance...
Look at this very aggressive Privateer 161 with 80° STA. The Bike is a massive bike but has a short TT because of the step STA.
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This is because of the steep STA. If you sit on the Bike the Bike feels very compact, but in the downhill position you have enough space/distance...
Look at this very aggressive Privateer 161 with 80° STA. The Bike is a massive bike but has a short TT because of the step STA.
No, that's not right. A steep effective seat tube angle does not necessitate a shorter effective top tube. The gold standard trail bike is the Ibis Ripmo, eSTA 77 degrees, eTT 632mm for a large. It's literally the most awarded trail bike out currently.
A shorter eTT is a design choice and there's nothing wrong with that.
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No, that's not right. A steep effective seat tube angle does not necessitate a shorter effective top tube. The gold standard trail bike is the Ibis Ripmo, eSTA 77 degrees, eTT 632mm for a large. It's literally the most awarded trail bike out currently.
A shorter eTT is a design choice and there's nothing wrong with that.
The Ripmo in large has a 76 STA...
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This is because of the steep STA. If you sit on the Bike the Bike feels very compact, but in the downhill position you have enough space/distance...
Look at this very aggressive Privateer 161 with 80° STA. The Bike is a massive bike but has a short TT because of the step STA.
I agree. These bikes are made to have a nice space on the bike while downhill (generous reach).
But very very compact in climbing position (what ruins performance).
While riding trail bikes, we have >80% of our pleasure while descending but spend 80% of our time climbing
Compromise is difficult :D
The Privateer 141 (trail bike 150/140mm) is more comparable to FM1001 (140/135mm). The geometry (with 150mm travel and 44mm offset fork) size P3 (equivalent L size) is 483mm reach, 612 effective top tube and 78° STA.
P3 size is exactly between size L and XL FM1001 (eTT 601mm & 627mm). My Specialized Enduro 29" size M 2015 was 594mm eTT which had a really shitty climbing position, even if the eTT is not the only parameter.
The FM1001 size L is a half-size shorter than other L size and XL is half-size bigger.
Really wondering what to choose. Not easy without testing it.
FM1001 XL size and 20mm stem, it would look like future of the future #grimdonut ;D
44mm offset fork and long reach for stability
20mm stem for reactivity
8) or :o ?
Maybe i will give it a try
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in fact, yes, on this frame the size grid is offset downward. At 936 in the size of L reach 500 stack 600 ETT 640 ST 490
maybe they did it to keep the seat tube lower for the big dropper in the latest fashion, but they just changed the size names)
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Hi Flo7 and QuentinLL !
Hi, what bushing did you use please ?
8x22.2mm ?
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No one seems to be complaining about the Geo chart being off. The steeper head tube angle is a big minus to me.
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Hi, what bushing did you use please ?
8x22.2mm ?
Hi I had to use 8x25.9mm + 2 washers to make it fits, but this way it fits perfect!
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Hi everyone,
today I received my 60mm Syntace stem to replace my 30mm stem and once installed the bike feels like a "real" medium.
The final specs published by Flybike/Carbonda may be a bit "odd" compared to what people would expect regarding S/M/L/XL but not by much. I'm no expert at mtb geometry but for example if I compare to a Santa Cruz Hightower medium, the numbers a relatively close. Yes the Top tube length of the FM1001/FM1156 is on the the short side i.e. 575mm vs 594mm for the hightower, but it's well within margins of adjustment.
In Canada, the real test will be next spring, when the trails are mtb ready, YeeHaa!
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No one seems to be complaining about the Geo chart being off. The steeper head tube angle is a big minus to me.
As for Head tube angle, we have to remember it's a Trail bike, not a DH bike. I think 65.5 (66 by my measurement) is a very good compromise between descend stability and maneuverability for the rest. Enjoy!
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Hi I had to use 8x25.9mm + 2 washers to make it fits, but this way it fits perfect!
Carbonda told me 8x30mm?
I already ordered today, I’m very excited :)
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I already ordered today, I’m very excited :)
Which frame size ? How tall are you ? :-)
No one seems to be complaining about the Geo chart being off. The steeper head tube angle is a big minus to me.
If it is 66 instead of 65,5 it is a little minus for me as well, but there aren't other chiner options with more aggressive geometry, isn't it ?
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I ordered size Medium and I’m 170cm tall...
The HTA was measured with the phone, maybe there is the little difference to the 65.5 which Carbonda told?!
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You can measure the head-tube angle by placing your phone on the fork stanchion, which is perpendicular to the steerer tube. Fork off-set won't be a factor to worry about, since it's measured at a 90 angle to the steering axis.
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Fork stanchion perpendicular to steering tube ?
You have a very strange bike :o
fork offset has a little impact. 51mm is 65,5° (table of carbonda), 42mm is 65,3° head angle (calculated).
It is very weird that users measured > 66° head angle. Maybe 130mm fork and not 140mm ? :-X
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Ha! ...parallel... :P
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...Is there somebody who already tried riding a 20mm stem on a long bike ? Do you think that it is completely stupid ?....
I know this is a bit old, but I saw it mentioned a couple times and there is no such thing as a 20mm stem! Except maybe the bolt on stems that are on double crown DH forks. I believe 35mm is the shortest stem using traditional bars and stem. When you have a 1 1/8" steer tube (28.6mm) and a 31.8mm handlebar diameter, even if they are touching each other with zero stem between them, thats 28.6+31.8=60.4mm ÷ 2 = 30.2mm center to center. Once you add a little bit of separation and some material for the clamps you're right around 35mm as the shortest possible unless you start notching the handlebar and/or the steerer to essentially get them to partially intersect each other and even then you're only going to knock off a few mm from the total
Anyways, I read that a couple times and the engineer in me couldn't not point it out...
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Maybe an integrated stem + bar could be possible with 20mm, or even zero :o
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Pacenti PDent comes in 20 mm. Might be able to find an Azonic Hammer in 20 or 25 mm and there may be a few other odd ball options out there.
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Maybe an integrated stem + bar could be possible with 20mm, or even zero :o
You are right, I have an integrated stemhandlebar 20mm ;-)
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Leverage Ratio of the FM1001.
Source: Adam
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You are right, I have an integrated stemhandlebar 20mm ;-)
Nice! The one on your picture with the sticker for your bike computer ?
Turn it around and go for an even more radical -20mm :D
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This one, 245g, 810mm width, backsweep 7°, upsweep 5°, 20mm stem.
There even make a 10mm stem bar :-)
https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/4001150474874.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27426c378GRFpY (https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/4001150474874.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27426c378GRFpY)
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I guess I didn't really think about the integrated stem/ handlebar. I've seen them a few times but I thought they were more on the XC racing side of things but I'm not up on everything like I was in the past. I thought I remembered the bar with the dent but assumed (probably mistakenly) that most would be using a traditional bar/ stem combo.
I wonder how much further the long and slack thing goes before we see a negative reach stem? Joking a bit but won't surprise me to see one at some point.
I haven't seen a sizing chart but based on the numbers I'm thinking I would go with an XL @ 6'2"/187 cm and 33.5"/85 cm inseam? Any thoughts?
PS that last post about stem length seems a bit rude now so I should probably remember not to post when I'm in pain and feeling like cr@p, which unfortunately is most of the time. Sorry it sounds that way as I wasn't trying to be an a$$
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I am 178cm, 83cm inseam and I would buy a XL size with the shortest stem I can.
You are 10cm taller, I think you can ride a XL with 40/45mm stem and find the bike perfect.
See Yoann Barelli, 177 cm tall, he rides a XL size (see 5:00mn)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G0T_-CybsaI (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G0T_-CybsaI)
And he still has flow
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wynzPOVGSnU (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wynzPOVGSnU)
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Are there any alternatives to the FM1001?
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For those of you that own this bike, how does it climb? Is it one of those super soft suspension designs that makes you sit and spin up the hill or is it a platform that is more responsive and urges you to get out of the saddle and go faster. Right now I have a sit and spin bike and I kind of hate it. I'm hoping this frame will be a little more snappy than what I have.
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For those of you that own this bike, how does it climb? Is it one of those super soft suspension designs that makes you sit and spin up the hill or is it a platform that is more responsive and urges you to get out of the saddle and go faster. Right now I have a sit and spin bike and I kind of hate it. I'm hoping this frame will be a little more snappy than what I have.
It seems like you need a 3 pos rear shock with remote control :D
The "sit and spin" impression comes from : 1) smooth suspension 2) short saddle to bar length 3) slack seat tube angle (the impression that you sit on the rear wheel)
If you have a firm/closed shock and choose the frame size+stem/handlebar to have a XC oriented position, the FM1001 will definitely feels like a climbing weapon (I don't have it but geo speaks).
But you will loose a bit of downhill handling.
Another way to fix it is the "dual position" forks. I tried it on a specialized enduro. 130mm when climbing keeps the bar lower and the seat tube steeper. 160mm while downhill. Unfortunately there are very few modern dual pos forks :-(
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Is this bike out in the wild yet? Is it available from name brand companies? When I contacted Carbonda I was told it wouldn't be available until summer?
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I haven't seen a sizing chart but based on the numbers I'm thinking I would go with an XL @ 6'2"/187 cm and 33.5"/85 cm inseam? Any thoughts?
I'm 6'1" and normally ride an L in everything, but would order an XL in this one.
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Dose this frame support internal dropper-seatpost routing?
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Dose this frame support internal dropper-seatpost routing?
Looks like 3 routing cables, rear derailer, brake and dropper.
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It is ready to ship :) It ist RAL 9016 and RAL 9005.
I like it...
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What size is it?
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Medium
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The Frame is ready for shipping.
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The geometry on this bike reminds me a lot of the La Sal Peak by Fezzari. I haven't seen any complaints on the sizing for the La Sal Peak from the reviews that I have read. https://www.fezzari.com/lasal. I'm looking at the Geo thinking, that is a reasonable reach, but maybe that's because I'm coming from a 2016 Diamondback Mission with a 430 reach on the size XL haha.
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The frame arrived yesterday. Looks very good but the finish is not perfect.
Weight 2410g size M with rear hanger and liner
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Gonna make a sexy bike
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Very nice @Flo7!
What did you pay for the frame? What are your measurements and where do you live in Germany?
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Thank you @ Schumo!
I live in Austria. Price for the Frame/axle, headset, 2nd hanger, painting/ decals, shipping with faster WXY express and paypal fee around 1100$
The complete Build i will show tomorrow...
Partslist:
Lyrik Ultimate BoXXer Red
Super Deluxe Ultimate
Reverb AXS
Sram X01 AXS
Dt Swiss XMC 1200
Newmen Advanced Sl Bar/ Stem
Magura Mt5 HC1
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First spy shot ;)
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Ohhh that looks sweet! 150mm fork?
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Ohhh that looks sweet! 150mm fork?
Thank you! The for is 140mm but I already have the 150mm airshaft...
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First spy shot ;)
Looks much nicer in complete bike!
Can you measure real bb height from floor to the center of bb?
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Finish ;)
Parts:
Carbonda Fm1001 "M"
RS Lyrik Ultimate 140mm
RS Super Deluxe 185x55
RS Reverb AXS 150x30,9mm and Trickstuff seat clamp
Sram XX1 AXS
Magura Mt7 polish with Mt5 HC1 levers and Dächle UL 203/180mm inkl titanscrews
Newmen Sl31,8 Handelbar/ Stem
Deathgrip Ultra Soft thin
CrankBrothers Mallet E Pedals
Dt Swiss XMC1200 30mm
Maxxis Assegai Maxxgrip Exo+ and Dissector Maxxterra EXO mit Taunus Insert mounted with 100ml milk
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8) 8) 8) 8)
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dream build...
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Very nice build @Flo7!
I am also really interested in this frame, but sizing is difficult based on the geo-chart/drawing. It seems the drawing is an M-size. Headtube angle seems to be around 66 degrees based on drawing and pictures of finished builds.
I am running a mullet now and this frame should also be good for that kind of setup. Seat post angle is so steep and bb so high that the lower back wheel axle would not be a problem. That would give a little bit slacker headtube angle and shorter reach.
Funny thing with the size is that XL size is almost identical to my current bike and I am not a big guy! I am 179cm tall and 83cm inner leg and usually ride M or L sizes.
But I would rather have a long bike with short stem then vice versa.
If the ones who already have this built up could comment on size and how it rides it would be much appreciated!
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Thank you @ Schumo!
I live in Austria. Price for the Frame/axle, headset, 2nd hanger, painting/ decals, shipping with faster WXY express and paypal fee around 1100$
The complete Build i will show tomorrow...
Partslist:
Lyrik Ultimate BoXXer Red
Super Deluxe Ultimate
Reverb AXS
Sram X01 AXS
Dt Swiss XMC 1200
Newmen Advanced Sl Bar/ Stem
Magura Mt5 HC1
Hi Flo7 did you have to pay VAT in austria, or was everyting included ib WXY shipping cost?
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Everything was included...
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This was quoted to me today by Carbonda, this is matte frame with decals. I got a separate email with some mass buy quotes too. Apparently there is a sale going on or discounts through May
One set of sample FM1001: US$720.00 with frame
Headset: US $12.00
Rear axle: US $15.00
Extra rear derailleur hangers: US$5.00
Shipping cost for one frame set to USA
3-10 days : US$ 230
8-10 weeks , Tax free : US$110
FM1001 is our latest product. It will launch in May this year. Now you only need to pay $100 in advance, and we will arrange shipment for you in May. In addition, I have a drawing of FM1001 here, you could have a look.
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Hello friend,
Here is the final version about the discount from March 30th to May 30th. The promotion plan is divided into three periods.
The discount information is included in the file.
Customers who placed orders between March 20 and March 29 also enjoy these discounts.
Recently, many customers have asked me about the single-player discount, which is far more than I expected. So I decided to give them more discounts. The two-person plan and seven-person plan have also been optimized.
The discount scheme for seven frames is limited to 17 orders per month. The two-frame discount plan is limited to 47 orders per month. Single frame discount plan is limited to 57 orders per month.
The following is a demonstration of individual discounts for your reference. Other contents are in the attachment.
First stage: 3/30-5/10(paint the preferential ): ①480(Frameset)+26(F&R axles)+12(Headset)+0(One derailleur hanger for free) +190(Shipping cost)+31(Paypal fee,4.5%)=US$739(No painting)
②480(Frameset)+26(F&R axles)+12(Headset)+45(painting price)+0(One derailleur hanger for free) +175(Shipping cost)+0(Paypal fee,As friend and family)=US$738(Bkack matt/Black glossy)
③480(Frameset)+26(F&R axles)+12(Headset)+70(painting price)+0(One derailleur hanger for free) +175(Shipping cost)+0(Paypal fee,As friend and family)=US$763(One color painting)
④480(Frameset)+26(F&R axles)+12(Headset)+85(painting price)+0(One derailleur hanger for free) +170(Shipping cost)+0(Paypal fee,As friend and family)=US$773(Two colors painting)
⑤480(Frameset)+26(F&R axles)+12(Headset)+125(painting price)+0(One derailleur hanger for free) +165(Shipping cost)+0(Paypal fee,As friend and family)=US$808(Chameleon painting)
Paints priced at $125 or more are offered at the same price as the chameleon.
In addition to the free headset and derailleur hanger, you will also enjoy a $10 shipping discount if you purchase the wheel set together.
Second stage: 5/11-5/25(no paint the preferential ): ①480(Frameset)+26(F&R axles)+12(Headset)+0(One derailleur hanger for free) +175(Shipping cost)+31(Paypal fee,As friend and family )=US$693(No painting)
②480(Frameset)+26(F&R axles)+12(Headset)+45(painting price)+0(One derailleur hanger for free)+190(Shipping cost)+0(Paypal fee,As friend and family)=US$753(Bkack matt/Black glossy)
In the second and third stages, the frames that need to be painted are sold for the original price, but a derailleur hanger can be given as a gift.
In addition to the free headset and derailleur hanger, you will also enjoy a $7 shipping discount if you purchase the wheel set together.
Third stage: 5/26-5/30(The final discount stage): ①480(Frameset)+26(F&R axles)+12(Headset)+0(One derailleur hanger for free) +185(Shipping cost)+31(Paypal fee,As friend and family )=US$703(No painting)
②480(Frameset)+26(F&R axles)+12(Headset)+45(painting price)+0(One derailleur hanger for free)+190(Shipping cost)+31(Paypal fee,4.5%)=US$784(Bkack matt/Black glossy)
In the second and third stages, the frames that need to be painted are sold for the original price, but a derailleur hanger can be given as a gift.
In addition to the free headset and derailleur hanger, you will also enjoy a $10 shipping discount if you purchase the wheel set together.
We are carrying out this cooperation with a sincere attitude. The discount price has been confirmed and will not be changed. Cabonda will have the final right to explain.
The discount is limited to Sales3's customers only. If not, please add sales3@carbonda.com mailbox to purchase.
Customers of other Cabonda salesmen will not be accepted. But if there is one want to buy it, he/she could buy it through a friend's account.
All marketing plans will end early and will close on 5/30(Buyer's local time on May 31, 00 a.m.).
After the activity, the derailleur hanger will not be given away for free.
Thank you for your reading. If you need any help, please feel free to tell me. It's my pleasure to help you.
Best regards,
Maria
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@mtbluvr68, Would you mind sharing the attachment as well?
Not sure I understand the single, two or seven people thing.
And the monthly limit either :o
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Is the two-person plan and seven-person plan (I understand it as ordering 2/7 frames instead of one and getting a discount as a result) applies if we ship the frames to other countries? (meaning we get the two-person plan discount but one frame goes to Canada nd the other one to Europe for example and they get two different payments)
And any mention to when the frames will be ready to ship? (it seems they only have the sample but these discounts are not on the sample, when the not sample frames will be manufactured and ready to ship?)
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There are 2 attachments, both spreadsheets. I'll post both
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Anyone here from Israel?
Assuming we will get around the same shipping price as europe - if we order 2 frames we will save 15$ for the headset (each) and around 55$ for the shipping (each).
so around 70$ each, if anyone interested private message me.
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Carbonda finally got back to me. They say they hope to see the XL frames by July but earliest is July.
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The head tube is NOT tapered. What does this mean for durability of using a tapered fork even with a compatible headset? And, which headset?
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Do you mean this frame is not designed for a tapered steerer tube fork?
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It's a 1.5" IS headset, designed for tapered forks. The large upper diameter gives the option to install special headsets with cable routing through the upper bearing cover.
You can install standard closed headsets though, Carbonda will even provide those.
Example closed: https://shop.fullspeedahead.com/en/type/headset-spares/headsets/road-mtb-gravel-cyclocross/no-55r-1-5-558-acr
Example internal cable routing: https://shop.fullspeedahead.com/en/type/headset-spares/headsets/road-mtb/no-55r-1-5-acr
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I just ordered three FM1001’s, for me, my wife, and my oldest son. I’m now looking at dropper post fitment. How many mm of insert length space is there to insert a dropper post in the seat tube before it bottoms out and for what frame size?
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I just ordered three FM1001’s, for me, my wife, and my oldest son. I’m now looking at dropper post fitment. How many mm of insert length space is there to insert a dropper post in the seat tube before it bottoms out and for what frame size?
I asked last month and they said " maximum insertion length for the seat post ： 230mm"
in size M
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Finish ;)
Parts:
Carbonda Fm1001 "M"
RS Lyrik Ultimate 140mm
RS Super Deluxe 185x55
RS Reverb AXS 150x30,9mm and Trickstuff seat clamp
Sram XX1 AXS
Magura Mt7 polish with Mt5 HC1 levers and Dächle UL 203/180mm inkl titanscrews
Newmen Sl31,8 Handelbar/ Stem
Deathgrip Ultra Soft thin
CrankBrothers Mallet E Pedals
Dt Swiss XMC1200 30mm
Maxxis Assegai Maxxgrip Exo+ and Dissector Maxxterra EXO mit Taunus Insert mounted with 100ml milk
Where did you find the black Downtube/bottom bracket frame protector?
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Hello, I'm about to order this frame from Wing/carbonda.
I have a few questions about some parts, and specially the fit of the frame.
I come from an older 2013 Ibis Mojo HD frame...got a LARGE frame from my dad, even though I use a Medium, I'm 1.70m tall, will the MEDIUM FM1001 fit me? It's not that different from the Ibis I use in terms of GEO numbers. Also, what headset are you guys using? I usually like to run nicer headsets like Cane Creek or King, etc. What brandname headset can I use?
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I am very close to buying one of these (fm1001), I started a conversation with Carbonda and received some prices one of which was a quote for paint. I was given a link to a RAL color chart as my options for paint color. I have read that the paint on some Chinese frames, not Carbonda in particular, is delicate and not well done. Does anyone have experience with this? I also read on a thread about another bike, ordered in the matte finish, that the owner thought that it was not raw carbon but a matte paint, has this been the experience of others?
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I also read on a thread about another bike, ordered in the matte finish, that the owner thought that it was not raw carbon but a matte paint, has this been the experience of others?
As it should be.... unless you specifically ask for raw unfinished carbon with the intention of painting the frame yourself it should have a layer of primer/paint/clear or you'll risk UV damage to the epoxy. At a minimum, a clear primer and clear topcoat if you want to see the carbon underneath. Not all Chinese manufacturers are capable of that.
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Painting it myself is why I was asking. In the interest of budgeting my time I'd rather buy a painted frame unless the paint is truly bad and problematic. They also estimated $70-$150 to paint it, l would likely have more than that in it. If I do it myself I would of course like the frame unpainted.
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Generally the paint is going to be OK. Not Trek quality but certainly better than most people are going to be capable of doing on their own.
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That $70 - $150 is generally over the cost of a matt or gloss black frame. Prices you see on Allie etc are generally for matt or gloss black.
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Hi everyone,
Glad I found this forum! I was searching Ebay one night for used frames and found that you could buy carbon frames from China. After doing some more searching I found this forum! Long story short I found the FM1001 to have have the specs I was looking for. In the process now of purchasing the frame. Hopefully in the next couple of months I will have the frame and start the build. For those who want to know I'm 179cm tall and my ideal reach is about 447/448 so I opted for a medium. Stay tuned!
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Hi everyone,
Glad I found this forum! I was searching Ebay one night for used frames and found that you could buy carbon frames from China. After doing some more searching I found this forum! Long story short I found the FM1001 to have have the specs I was looking for. In the process now of purchasing the frame. Hopefully in the next couple of months I will have the frame and start the build. For those who want to know I'm 179cm tall and my ideal reach is about 447/448 so I opted for a medium. Stay tuned!
Sorry but i think the Bike is tooo small for you with 179cm and Size Medium!
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Sorry but i think the Bike is tooo small for you with 179cm and Size Medium!
I'm not locked in yet so I can change it. Can you tell me why you think this would be to small?
If I go off what bike manufacture suggest they put me at a large based on my height. My concern with getting a larger size is I don't want to feel stretched out or hunched over the front of the bike while in the seat position. I prefer to me more in a neutral position. While my current bike is a one size fits most it would fall on the large size. Event though I've slackened the front by 2 degrees, shorter stem, and installed bars with more back sweep I still feel hunched over and baring to much weight on my hands. I know guys my height prefer the medium over the large. I also know guys that are way taller than me that fall into the XL but prefer the large.
Like everyone we want to make sure we get the right size so we don't get stuck with something that doesn't fit and not enjoyably to ride. I've been researching sizing the best I can so if I'm missing something please let me know. I really want to make sure I get the correct size that fits me best.
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Got my frame. Hopefully will have it built by next week.
Mines a Medium.
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Got my frame. Hopefully will have it built by next week.
Mines a Medium.
Have you ridden the Auron yet? Am about to pull the trigger on an EQ but can't find any rider reviews yet.
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Got my frame. Hopefully will have it built by next week.
Mines a Medium.
Mullet?
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These frames are small. I also believe that size M is too small for you. I have ordered this as well and went with L. I am 179cm, inseam 83cm and decided between L and XL. Since the seat tube is quiet steep the top tube becomes short. So with your preferred reach the seating position will be very small.
My current size L bike is in between this L and XL and that is spot on.
I hope this helps your decision!
I'm not locked in yet so I can change it. Can you tell me why you think this would be to small?
If I go off what bike manufacture suggest they put me at a large based on my height. My concern with getting a larger size is I don't want to feel stretched out or hunched over the front of the bike while in the seat position. I prefer to me more in a neutral position. While my current bike is a one size fits most it would fall on the large size. Event though I've slackened the front by 2 degrees, shorter stem, and installed bars with more back sweep I still feel hunched over and baring to much weight on my hands. I know guys my height prefer the medium over the large. I also know guys that are way taller than me that fall into the XL but prefer the large.
Like everyone we want to make sure we get the right size so we don't get stuck with something that doesn't fit and not enjoyably to ride. I've been researching sizing the best I can so if I'm missing something please let me know. I really want to make sure I get the correct size that fits me best.
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Have you ridden the Auron yet? Am about to pull the trigger on an EQ but can't find any rider reviews yet.
I have ridden the non eq version of the Auron back in 2018 or so, and it was smooooth. Then I went on and used a durolux 170mm for 2 years now, with great success, those things are beasts. Yes my build is a Mullet right now....we'll see how that goes. Stupid shipping delays...I only need a brake hose for my rear disc brake.
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I have ridden the non eq version of the Auron back in 2018 or so, and it was smooooth. Then I went on and used a durolux 170mm for 2 years now, with great success, those things are beasts.
Thanks for the feedback, it is appreciated. I've been looking for ages for a 29er boost 150mm fork to replace the 27.5 Rhythm on my FM10 (am using a crown race spacer) . Everything has become so expensive and people are asking ridiculous prices for 2nd hand. A mate recommended the Durolux but there are so few user reviews, particularly for the EQ versions. Anyway, have just ordered the last Auron35 RC2 PCS EQ because I am more likely to want to reuse it shorter than longer. Went from Pre-order to 1 left and price went up about $40 so I had to stop procrastinating. Again, thanks.
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Would this frame be ok with a 200mm x 57mm rear shock? Or would that way be too much shock for this bike?
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Would this frame be ok with a 200mm x 57mm rear shock? Or would that way be too much shock for this bike?
The 57mm stroke is probably ok but not sure what the extra 15mm would do and I think I would be pretty hesitant. I believe the frame also requires a trunnion mount and not sure if that's available with a 200x57?
If it's not a supply issue and you're looking for some more travel then check out the other frame linked on first page (FM1166) that is similar but 150mm rear travel. Could also use a 205x55mm shock (I think) and get closer to 137ish mm travel.
After looking at them both i originally was interested in this one but now thinking the other might be better for me. Well wait until my AM831 arrives before I make any decisions...
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Yes my build is a Mullet right now
I'm looking at building an FM1001 and FM1002 with parts I have but as 27.5 builds for 11/12yo's. I'm thinking with the smaller wheels and a longer stroke shock and It'll be good. Would prefer 10mm shorter chain stays though
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I'm really interested in an FM1001, it seems that lots of people have experience of this frame and I've a couple of questions before I buy...
- What type of headset is needed?
- The spec says the derailleur hanger is universal. Is that the new universal hanger spec, or a carbonda universal hanger?
- How much rear tyre clearance is there? (I often ride in mud!)
- Is the pivot hardware good? Anything required to improve?
Any other build tips??
Thanks
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How are people liking this bike?
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I'm really interested in an FM1001, it seems that lots of people have experience of this frame and I've a couple of questions before I buy...
- What type of headset is needed?
- The spec says the derailleur hanger is universal. Is that the new universal hanger spec, or a carbonda universal hanger?
- How much rear tyre clearance is there? (I often ride in mud!)
- Is the pivot hardware good? Anything required to improve?
Any other build tips??
Thanks
I can sorta poorly answer a couple of your questions-
I ordered my frame a few weeks ago, it is expected to ship at the end of Sep, so I can't look at it for you but as far as the headset and derailleur hanger go, they can both be provided by Carbonda. The headset was $15 and a spare hanger was $5. I figure if the headset is good I will run it and if not I can at least use it for measurements and comparison. Not that you asked but Carbonda was a joy to deal with. I emailed back and forth with Katie, sometimes I would get a response the same day, sometimes the next morning, and aside from some translation issues she seemed to actually read and respond appropriately to questions. Hope some of this helps.
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I'm on my third day of using my fm1001 on the trail. I'm gonna go ahead and say this frame is way better than I was expecting! It's very high quality at first glance, it built really easily, threads are great, alignment is spot on, hardware seems to be of very good quality. Once built I went through every pivot bolt to torque spec, greased everything the way it should and went ahead and used Mastic tape everywhere the chain touches.
Headset is kinda weird, I honestly would've liked a more standard type, with the 1-1/8 on top and not 1.5", as headsets are super limited...but the one carbonda sold me is ok.
Cable routing was a pain (my mechanics words), but turned out super tidy. Nothing rattles which is a huge plus.
Bottom bracket threaded well, and I'm not using the ISCG mounts so I can't comment on alignment.
I'm using my bike as a mullet as of right now, and at first it felt weird as I had never used 29" wheels before. But I felt great yesterday, more in control. The Auron fork is amazing. I'm really impressed with suntour products.
The rear suspension is so smooth and plush if set up correctly. Feels super fast compared to my older 150mm ibis mojo hd3. Feels really stiff laterally. I just need to install another token in the shock.
Shimano XT 12 speed is just amazing.
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I'm on my third day of using my fm1001 on the trail. I'm gonna go ahead and say this frame is way better than I was expecting! It's very high quality at first glance, it built really easily, threads are great, alignment is spot on, hardware seems to be of very good quality. Once built I went through every pivot bolt to torque spec, greased everything the way it should and went ahead and used Mastic tape everywhere the chain touches.
Headset is kinda weird, I honestly would've liked a more standard type, with the 1-1/8 on top and not 1.5", as headsets are super limited...but the one carbonda sold me is ok.
Cable routing was a pain (my mechanics words), but turned out super tidy. Nothing rattles which is a huge plus.
Bottom bracket threaded well, and I'm not using the ISCG mounts so I can't comment on alignment.
I'm using my bike as a mullet as of right now, and at first it felt weird as I had never used 29" wheels before. But I felt great yesterday, more in control. The Auron fork is amazing. I'm really impressed with suntour products.
The rear suspension is so smooth and plush if set up correctly. Feels super fast compared to my older 150mm ibis mojo hd3. Feels really stiff laterally. I just need to install another token in the shock.
Shimano XT 12 speed is just amazing.
Bike looks great! Glad to hear you are enjoying it. What fork offset you are running? I asked Wing what offset the frame was built for and was told 51mm.
For those you have this frame, whos using 44mm vs 51mm?
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I'm on my third day of using my fm1001 on the trail. I'm gonna go ahead and say this frame is way better than I was expecting! It's very high quality at first glance, it built really easily, threads are great, alignment is spot on, hardware seems to be of very good quality. Once built I went through every pivot bolt to torque spec, greased everything the way it should and went ahead and used Mastic tape everywhere the chain touches.
Headset is kinda weird, I honestly would've liked a more standard type, with the 1-1/8 on top and not 1.5", as headsets are super limited...but the one carbonda sold me is ok.
Cable routing was a pain (my mechanics words), but turned out super tidy. Nothing rattles which is a huge plus.
Bottom bracket threaded well, and I'm not using the ISCG mounts so I can't comment on alignment.
I'm using my bike as a mullet as of right now, and at first it felt weird as I had never used 29" wheels before. But I felt great yesterday, more in control. The Auron fork is amazing. I'm really impressed with suntour products.
The rear suspension is so smooth and plush if set up correctly. Feels super fast compared to my older 150mm ibis mojo hd3. Feels really stiff laterally. I just need to install another token in the shock.
Shimano XT 12 speed is just amazing.
Thanks for the info, that's really great to hear it rides well. I must admit that I've already looked at a mullet setup, lowering the bottom bracket seems possible as it's a little higher than other bikes of a similar type (eg transition spur has a -40mm BB drop)
If you don't mind me asking, how do you find the sizing of the frame? I'm 180cm tall and thinking a large is the obvious size, however the 601mm top tube seems really short! My current bike has a 480 reach and a 640mm top tube. 40mm difference seems like a lot!
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Thanks for the info, that's really great to hear it rides well. I must admit that I've already looked at a mullet setup, lowering the bottom bracket seems possible as it's a little higher than other bikes of a similar type (eg transition spur has a -40mm BB drop)
If you don't mind me asking, how do you find the sizing of the frame? I'm 180cm tall and thinking a large is the obvious size, however the 601mm top tube seems really short! My current bike has a 480 reach and a 640mm top tube. 40mm difference seems like a lot!
Hey Neb, sizing seems to be one of those questions that gets many different answers. I don't think anyone can really say what is right size for you other than you. I did find some resources that did help me decided on the size that should work for me so hopefully this may help you find the right size for you
https://www.leelikesbikes.com/rad-bike-setup.html
youtube.com/watch?v=HyppZOpHocM&list=WL&index=2&t=2s
youtube.com/watch?v=rHagRovHSYs&list=WL&index=1&t=472s
youtube.com/watch?v=5pn6Mnl4AAw&list=WL&index=3
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I am still debating as to what size wheel to use. I will try 29er using one my dads rear 29er wheel and decide what I like most. Size wise, I think my medium could be a liiiiiittle bit longer, but I'm not complaining at all. I come from an older ibis Large hd3, and feels similarly long..but this has waay more standover clearance and is much snappier and playful. I am really loving my bike right now.
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- How much rear tyre clearance is there? (I often ride in mud!)
Well with 27.5” wheel and 2.6” rocket ron on 30mm id rim this is what it looks like. Plenty of clearance! Seems with 29” wheel side clearance would be similar.
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Well with 27.5” wheel and 2.6” rocket ron on 30mm id rim this is what it looks like. Plenty of clearance! Seems with 29” wheel side clearance would be similar.
Thanks for that. I only tend to use 2.3/2.4 so it looks like there is plenty of clearance.
I do like the idea of trying it in mullet mode to see what it rides like
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I asked wing about the difference in the shipping options, I received the following as a reply
"3-10 day is DHL or fedex ,You have to pay import duty, but you can choose the value of customs declaration.
15-35 day ,tax free is WXY , WXY will advance the tax, and when it arrives in the your country , it will be sent to you directly by DPD."
Am I right in saying WXY will complete tax and import duties (included in the cost of shipping) and send the frame to me from within UK using a last mile courier (dpd), DHL option will obviously be quicker, but I'd be liable for tax and customs declarations into the UK, which would potentially add 25-30% to the cost?
Any experiences of WXY?
Thanks
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I'm on my third day of using my fm1001 on the trail. I'm gonna go ahead and say this frame is way better than I was expecting! It's very high quality at first glance, it built really easily, threads are great, alignment is spot on, hardware seems to be of very good quality. Once built I went through every pivot bolt to torque spec, greased everything the way it should and went ahead and used Mastic tape everywhere the chain touches.
Headset is kinda weird, I honestly would've liked a more standard type, with the 1-1/8 on top and not 1.5", as headsets are super limited...but the one carbonda sold me is ok.
Cable routing was a pain (my mechanics words), but turned out super tidy. Nothing rattles which is a huge plus.
Bottom bracket threaded well, and I'm not using the ISCG mounts so I can't comment on alignment.
I'm using my bike as a mullet as of right now, and at first it felt weird as I had never used 29" wheels before. But I felt great yesterday, more in control. The Auron fork is amazing. I'm really impressed with suntour products.
The rear suspension is so smooth and plush if set up correctly. Feels super fast compared to my older 150mm ibis mojo hd3. Feels really stiff laterally. I just need to install another token in the shock.
Shimano XT 12 speed is just amazing.
good build, what is the weight?
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I actually haven't weighed it yet lol. But it feels light and nimble.
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I ordered three frames, one S (for wife, 5’4”), one M (for 14 year old son, 5’5” and growing), one L for me (I’m 6’0”). One of the bikes (the S) is built and ridden on. Son has been riding it for MTB practice and races. He loves it. The M and L will be done being built by end of this week. Here’s a photo of the S. I will respond with my thoughts once I can throw a leg over the L. Frames look sick!! I can also post build components if anyone is interested. Just holler.
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I ordered three frames, one S (for wife, 5’4”), one M (for 14 year old son, 5’5” and growing), one L for me (I’m 6’0”). One of the bikes (the S) is built and ridden on. Son has been riding it for MTB practice and races. He loves it. The M and L will be done being built by end of this week. Here’s a photo of the S. I will respond with my thoughts once I can throw a leg over the L. Frames look sick!! I can also post build components if anyone is interested. Just holler.
Love the color! I got my frame yesterday. Really happy with the frame and I agree that it does look pretty sick. So far I only have a rear shock and the fork will be here today.
Yes, please post a build list. One thing I'm curious about is what shock mounting hardware you went with? I measured my frame at 29.5mm x8mm. I read a few pages it should use a 30mmx8mm
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Love the color! I got my frame yesterday. Really happy with the frame and I agree that it does look pretty sick. So far I only have a rear shock and the fork will be here today.
Yes, please post a build list. One thing I'm curious about is what shock mounting hardware you went with? I measured my frame at 29.5mm x8mm. I read a few pages it should use a 30mmx8mm
Mounting hardware was 30mm x 8mm, purchased from bouncecycles on eBay (located in UK). I also bought the DU Bush Tool (LBS said that tool was necessary to install).
Build lists:
Size L (teal) - rider 6'0"
Shimano SLX 10-51 cassette
Shimano XTR chain
Shimano SLX 32T chainring
Sram GX AXS shifter 12-speed and rear derailleur (LOVE IT!!)
Shimano XT 4-piston brakes
Shimano XT rotors (203mm front; 180mm rear)
DIYCarbon Bikes wheelset (29er boost spacing front and rear, DT Swiss 350 hubs, 37mm external/31mm internal carbon rim)
Maxxis Minion DHF 3C Maxx Grip 2.5 29er front; DHR II EXO Maxx Terra 2.4 29er rear
OneUp 180mm dropper post
Wolftooth light action dropper lever
Fox 34 Factory 140mm, 51mm offset (Carbonda says do 51mm offset)
Fox Factory DPX2 185mm * 55mm trunnion (135mm travel)
RaceFace Next R 800mm carbon handlebar, 35mm diameter, 10mm rise
RaceFace Turbine R stem 50mm x 35mm
Ergon SM Pro Men's saddle
Size M (black) - rider 5'5" and growing
Shimano SLX 10-51 cassette
Shimano XTR chain
Shimano SLX 32T chainring
Shimano XT shifter 12-speed
Shimano XT derailleur 12-speed
Shimano XT 4-piston brakes
Shimano XT rotors (203mm front; 180mm rear)
DIYCarbon Bikes wheelset (29er boost spacing front and rear, Kooza hubs, 37mm external/31mm internal carbon rim)
Maxxis Minion DHF 3C Maxx Grip 2.5 29er front; DHR II EXO Maxx Terra 2.4 29er rear
OneUp 150mm dropper post
Wolftooth light action dropper lever
Rock Shox Pike Select 140mm, 51mm offset (Carbonda says do 51mm offset)
Rock Shox Deluxe 185mm * 55mm trunnion (135mm travel)
RaceFace Aeffect R 780mm handlebar, 35mm diameter, 20mm rise
Mondraker onoff KR stem 30mm x 35mm
Selle Italia Boost EVO Superflow saddle
I got the chainstay protector from Santa Cruz ($10 + shipping) and had it cut to fit the chainstay.
Did a few miles this evening, bike feels great.
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Mounting hardware was 30mm x 8mm, purchased from bouncecycles on eBay (located in UK). I also bought the DU Bush Tool (LBS said that tool was necessary to install).
Build lists:
Size L (teal) - rider 6'0"
Shimano SLX 10-51 cassette
Shimano XTR chain
Shimano SLX 32T chainring
Sram GX AXS shifter 12-speed and rear derailleur (LOVE IT!!)
Shimano XT 4-piston brakes
Shimano XT rotors (203mm front; 180mm rear)
DIYCarbon Bikes wheelset (29er boost spacing front and rear, DT Swiss 350 hubs, 37mm external/31mm internal carbon rim)
Maxxis Minion DHF 3C Maxx Grip 2.5 29er front; DHR II EXO Maxx Terra 2.4 29er rear
OneUp 180mm dropper post
Wolftooth light action dropper lever
Fox 34 Factory 140mm, 51mm offset (Carbonda says do 51mm offset)
Fox Factory DPX2 185mm * 55mm trunnion (135mm travel)
RaceFace Next R 800mm carbon handlebar, 35mm diameter, 10mm rise
RaceFace Turbine R stem 50mm x 35mm
Ergon SM Pro Men's saddle
Size M (black) - rider 5'5" and growing
Shimano SLX 10-51 cassette
Shimano XTR chain
Shimano SLX 32T chainring
Shimano XT shifter 12-speed
Shimano XT derailleur 12-speed
Shimano XT 4-piston brakes
Shimano XT rotors (203mm front; 180mm rear)
DIYCarbon Bikes wheelset (29er boost spacing front and rear, Kooza hubs, 37mm external/31mm internal carbon rim)
Maxxis Minion DHF 3C Maxx Grip 2.5 29er front; DHR II EXO Maxx Terra 2.4 29er rear
OneUp 150mm dropper post
Wolftooth light action dropper lever
Rock Shox Pike Select 140mm, 51mm offset (Carbonda says do 51mm offset)
Rock Shox Deluxe 185mm * 55mm trunnion (135mm travel)
RaceFace Aeffect R 780mm handlebar, 35mm diameter, 20mm rise
Mondraker onoff KR stem 30mm x 35mm
Selle Italia Boost EVO Superflow saddle
I got the chainstay protector from Santa Cruz ($10 + shipping) and had it cut to fit the chainstay.
Did a few miles this evening, bike feels great.
looks nice! what weight?
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Sram GX AXS shifter 12-speed and rear derailleur (LOVE IT!!)
Did you have to do a lot of trimming or does it shift well as is with the 10-51 cassette? I have one bike with a full SLX setup, including SLX microspline hub, and I have to say I am not a fan of Shimano drivetrains.
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looks nice! what weight?
L is 30.0 lbs (carbon handlebar, lighter spokes)
M is 30.8 lbs (alloy handlebar; heavier spokes, heavier pedals)
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Did you have to do a lot of trimming or does it shift well as is with the 10-51 cassette? I have one bike with a full SLX setup, including SLX microspline hub, and I have to say I am not a fan of Shimano drivetrains.
It shifts well (brand new at this point). I researched before deciding to do Sramano drivetrain and others said it worked just fine.
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What material did you use on the downtube (seen on lighter blue frame)? How thick is it? Have you used it before?
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The material is 3M Clear Paint Surface Protection Vinyl Film (6 Inch x 60 Inch) on Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004VG8DS0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Also, the black bottom bracket shell protector is by Salsa (but I don't remember which frame). It seems okay, not hardened plastic.
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Do you need to apply paint to the frame or does it ship with clear coat
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Do you need to apply paint to the frame or does it ship with clear coat
There is no paint on the frame unless you order it painted, but epoxi don’t “need” paint. It is only for looks.
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There is no paint on the frame unless you order it painted, but epoxi don’t “need” paint. It is only for looks.
Eh, more than likely they use a cheaper kind of epoxy that without a UV resistant clear coat at a minimum, will yellow/degrade over time. Most frames will ship either gloss or matte clear over raw but you can ask the vendor.
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Do you need to apply paint to the frame or does it ship with clear coat
This frame comes with a black satin/matte finish. Not sure if its a primer or a finish color. I plan on painting the frame myself but for an additional cost you can have them paint it for you.
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How stiff is the frame? So many of these open mold frames are so flexy
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I'm looking forward to building this frame up!
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I'm looking forward to building this frame up!
is it possible to see the complete bike?
how tall are you?
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is it possible to see the complete bike?
how tall are you?
It hasn't arrived yet, I'll post a build when it arrives.
I'm 5'11" or 180cm and I have bought the large frame.
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It hasn't arrived yet, I'll post a build when it arrives.
I'm 5'11" or 180cm and I have bought the large frame.
it would be interesting to know how compact it is at 180cm
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Setup as a mullet, I got these angles. Not exact of course but correspond more or less to the geo chart.
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Setup as a mullet, I got these angles. Not exact of course but correspond more or less to the geo chart.
How does it ride as a mullet setup?
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It is not ready yet so cannot say, but it seems quite slack for trail riding. I will ride it in the next few days.
I think I will try a 29” rear at some point, that seems more logical, better angles and better rollover.
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Hi I had to use 8x25.9mm + 2 washers to make it fits, but this way it fits perfect!
Are people still saying the geometry chart for this bike is not correct? What is the correct head tube angle and reach (medium)?
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Here is my bike-build. Made my own logo and painted myself. :D
Running NX drivetrain, Fox 34, Fox DPX2 and SLX brakes. Very happy with the bike so far.
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Nice, have you weighed it by any chance?
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Nice, have you weighed it by any chance?
14.3 kg as in picture. It is a XL-frame. Next project is a set of carbon-wheels to get of some weight. The ones I have are very heavy...
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14.3 kg as in picture. It is a XL-frame. Next project is a set of carbon-wheels to get of some weight. The ones I have are very heavy...
can you take a profile photo of the bike?
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can you take a profile photo of the bike?
Yesterday I took my first longer ride. The bike feels really good. Climbs so much better than my 2012 Specialized epic ;) ;D :)
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Yesterday I took my first longer ride. The bike feels really good. Climbs so much better than my 2012 Specialized epic ;) ;D :)
Not sure, is it a picture of your bike or your car ;D
Have fun with it ! 8)
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This is the perfect Porsche for this forum :)
(Just jesting though and yanking your chain, I'd rather drive your 928 than my mazda5)
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For anyone that is riding this frame, does there feel like much flex or does it feel stiff?
Also, is there much pedal bob? Can you run the shock open or do you ever feel the need to flip lever to medium/pedal position, assuming it's there?
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Setup as a mullet, I got these angles. Not exact of course but correspond more or less to the geo chart.
is it XL size? what is your height?
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is it XL size? what is your height?
It is L size, I am 179cm and inseam around 83-84cm. Fits me very good with a 50mm stem. It seems sizing is very small, normally I am between M and L size but with this I was thinking L or XL.
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For anyone that is riding this frame, does there feel like much flex or does it feel stiff?
Also, is there much pedal bob? Can you run the shock open or do you ever feel the need to flip lever to medium/pedal position, assuming it's there?
Not much flex at all. There is some pedal bob but not so much, mostly when standing. I probably would use the lockout on transfers, but since the shock is upside down it is hard to reach and the bike is efficient enough anyway. Having the shock upside down is a really stupid idea, no benefits, hard to reach lockout and rebound adjustments are hard to do depending on the shock used.
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It is L size, I am 179cm and inseam around 83-84cm. Fits me very good with a 50mm stem. It seems sizing is very small, normally I am between M and L size but with this I was thinking L or XL.
I ask because many brands of trail frames measure in L as 1001 in XL. If at 180 mm tall, size L fits well and does not feel short and compact, then good. But thoughts that the XL looks more suitable do not leave
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Yesterday I took my first longer ride. The bike feels really good. Climbs so much better than my 2012 Specialized epic ;) ;D :)
the porsche is great. By the way, what your height?
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the porsche is great. By the way, what your height?
I am 187cm.
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I ask because many brands of trail frames measure in L as 1001 in XL. If at 180 mm tall, size L fits well and does not feel short and compact, then good. But thoughts that the XL looks more suitable do not leave
I had the same thoughts, I am 180cm tall and didn't know whether to go L or XL. My other bike has a reach of 480mm, top tube of 630mm and I use a 35mm stem. so the large carbonda seemed like it would be too small. In the end I bought a large FM1001, I've put a 50mm stem on to increase top tube length to bars, so it'll be a little shorter than my current bike but probably a bit more stable pedalling with the 50mm stem.
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I had the same thoughts, I am 180cm tall and didn't know whether to go L or XL. My other bike has a reach of 480mm, top tube of 630mm and I use a 35mm stem. so the large carbonda seemed like it would be too small. In the end I bought a large FM1001, I've put a 50mm stem on to increase top tube length to bars, so it'll be a little shorter than my current bike but probably a bit more stable pedalling with the 50mm stem.
it will be interesting to read the reviews about the ride, and long term review. Now I have fm936 and I periodically think about changing to fm1001
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Sizing for this frame has been a hot topic for sure. The consensus of this frame has been its on the small size but I have to politely disagree. I based sizing on reach. I knew that I wanted a reach somewhere between 447mm-456mm. Size medium at 450mm would be perfect but I was told in this forum that a medium would be to small for me based on my height. I stuck to my guns and got the medium. I'm happy I did because it fits perfectly! I'm about 179/180 cm tall running a 38mm stem with a 40mm rise bar (both are carryovers from the previous bike). This puts me perfectly in the saddle where I want to be. At the end of the day we all have our preference when I comes to bike sizing. If anyone is unsure what size to get I found the info below to be very helpful.
https://www.leelikesbikes.com/rad-bike-setup.html
youtube.com/watch?v=HyppZOpHocM&list=WL&index=2&t=2s
youtube.com/watch?v=rHagRovHSYs&list=WL&index=1&t=472s
youtube.com/watch?v=5pn6Mnl4AAw&list=WL&index=3
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That is good is it fits! We are all different, still compared to most big brands these are small in size.
The RAD measure is just another number next to all the other that you need to take in to account. In that YouTube clip they test sizing for a dirt jumper and a dh bike, both of where you stand up basically all the time. You cannot count from only reach without stack measure. RAD is probably a good way to do it, but far from complete.
This is a trail bike where most people probably sit a lot of the time.
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I think in this video you can see the RAD these enduro trainees use (when they jump) https://youtu.be/6JAKAI_wrOo?t=1196
It seems they use way above RAD+
From the internet it seems that - if you want to go in full speed and just bulldozer the track go RAD+ and beyond, if you want to be nimble and do more 'tricks' go RAD and RAD-
I'm 183cm and took the the fm1002 L with 50mm stem and it around RAD+ I think
From the 'stack' and 'O' of the fm1001 I wonder if I would ended up on RAD or RAD- on size L on that bike
So I think the more aggressive the bike (geo+suspension) the more they 'stretch' it in each size, they assume you buy this aggressive bike shred and go fast
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Finally got the bike on the trails and loving it! Climbs and descends well. Here are a few pictures. Frame was painted by me.
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Nice looking bike! That terrain looks familiar, are you in the SF Bay Area?
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Nice looking bike! That terrain looks familiar, are you in the SF Bay Area?
Thanks! Yeah, I'm in the east bay. Those were taken at Pena Adobe which is my home trail. Where in the Bay are you?
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Got my frame. Hopefully will have it built by next week.
Mines a Medium.
Are those blue accents decals or paint? Either way they look awesome, really complement the lines of the frame.
Don’t be surprised if I post pics of a 1001/1002 build with a bit of a copycat look some day!
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Bossman, are you able to ride both the 1001 and 1002 and if so, how do they compare? What about weight for both frames? Do you have any other bikes you have ridden that you can compare it to?
I'm really thinking about getting one. They look a lot better finished than the AM831.
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Thanks! Yeah, I'm in the east bay. Those were taken at Pena Adobe which is my home trail. Where in the Bay are you?
Sunnyvale. I do most of my MTBing in the parks and preserves along Skyline Blvd. down here. I used to go to Henry W. Coe State Park a lot, but I need to build my endurance back for that place after years of not riding MTB.
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Bossman, are you able to ride both the 1001 and 1002 and if so, how do they compare? What about weight for both frames? Do you have any other bikes you have ridden that you can compare it to?
I'm really thinking about getting one. They look a lot better finished than the AM831.
Since I don't own the FM1002 I can't compare the two. I'm finding the FM1001 to handles really well so I would think the FM1002 would be a bit better with the longer wheel base, slacker head tube, and longer suspension travel. Unfortunately I don't own a scale so I can't weight the bike. Its fairly light so my guess is right around 30lbs. My previous bike was the Hyper Hydroform. It is super heavy and the bike was to big for me. Comparing the two in night and day. The FM1001 handles so much better, is obviously lighter, better geometry and being a medium size it fits me perfectly.
I've read the other tread about the AM831 and all the flexing issues they are having. I'm happy to say the the FM1001 has little to no flex in the frame. I think you would be happy with either the FM1001/1002.
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Thanks for the reply. I thought you had posted a couple bikes in the 1002 thread but must have gotten the 2 mixed up.
Glad you are liking it! If I don't get the 831 sorted out I'll be looking really hard at these 2 if I decide to try again with a "chiner" frame. Otherwise I'll go with a name brand bike as there wasn't much savings after getting it completely built and sorted out.
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Well with 27.5” wheel and 2.6” rocket ron on 30mm id rim this is what it looks like. Plenty of clearance! Seems with 29” wheel side clearance would be similar.
What’s your BB height like? I’ve been thinking about a mixed wheel setup and am trying to decide whether that will work in my area (Maine) because I ride a lot of very rocky trails where pedal strikes are a big issue.
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BB height is on the low side, at least for riding in rocky terrain. It is ok, but not perfect. I will probably switch to full 29” at some point. I use 170mm cranks.
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What’s your BB height like? I’ve been thinking about a mixed wheel setup and am trying to decide whether that will work in my area (Maine) because I ride a lot of very rocky trails where pedal strikes are a big issue.
You might be able to raise it up in the rear by 5-10 mm with an offset shock bushing.
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I actually thought about this too, but do they actually work for making it longer? Doesn’t it just spin around and settle in the lower position eventually?
And also since it is trunnion mounted fork you only make it around 5mm higher at the rear axle.
You might be able to raise it up in the rear by 5-10 mm with an offset shock bushing.
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My assumption was that offset bushings wouldn’t be great for these flipped trunnion shocks because the only end you can add one to is under heavy rotational forces. I’d assume with enough punishment it would start to settle into the angle of least resistance, and probably lose some of the offset.
I’ve heard contradictory things about offset bushings: that you should never put them on a high rotation mount point, and also that they’re held so tightly by the bolt that they shouldn’t be able to move. I’d assume both are true to some degree but I’ve had enough headaches with bike stuff over the past few years that I’d rather not take the risk.
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A friend of mine is running the offset bushing to bring up the BB, I think so long as the spacing is perfect and all the tightening force goes to secure the bushing, it should be fine.
But putting it on a rotating part has the side effect of changing the leverage ratio.
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So the effects of a 2mm offset bushing are:
- BB higher by 3mm
- head angle steeper by 0,3 degrees
- leverage ratio slightly less progressive
- 1mm more travel :D
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Maybe a dumb question, but how do I run the cables using the white tubes that come in the frame? Am I supposed to tape the cable to the tube and pull or push the inner cable into the tube and then replace the tube with outer cable?
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Maybe a dumb question, but how do I run the cables using the white tubes that come in the frame? Am I supposed to tape the cable to the tube and pull or push the inner cable into the tube and then replace the tube with outer cable?
If you can pass the hose in that tube, then once out, pull the tube out.
If not, taping them is an option. Don't pull too much as you may detach it.
Just push the hose, and lightly pull the tube as a guide and not as a force.
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Maybe a dumb question, but how do I run the cables using the white tubes that come in the frame? Am I supposed to tape the cable to the tube and pull or push the inner cable into the tube and then replace the tube with outer cable?
Running the cable housing for the dropper is super easy. Just tape the white tube to the cable housing. The rear brake hose and derailleur housing I found to be super difficult. The lower part of the rear triangle has some super tight bends. I found it easy to un-do the lower pivot of the rear triangle and pull the cables through.
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What is the purpose of the bolts at back of the chain stays on the FM1001? It doesn’t appear that many bikes have these. Is it a bad thing? Seems like it could lead to unwanted creaking etc. Thanks!
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That is the rear pivot of a Horst link suspension. If that pivot was not there, you would stress or even crack the rear triangle as you engaged the suspension. The particular arrangement of pivots on a Horst link design also defines the axel path of the suspension as well as other important parameters.
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You're seeing a few frames now using "flex stays" rather than these physical pivots.
The flex stays are designed to provide the small angular change between seat stays and chainstays that pivots also provide.
Bearing based pivots tend to still be used on longer travel bikes where weight is less of an issue than a light xc bike which are trending into the flex stays design.
People used to moan about bushings.being used in that application rather than bearings, but as there's often so little rotation there anyways bearings could be considered overkill
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Flex pivots are by design a flexy rear end on the bike. The performance is similar to a single pivot. With all the braking issues associated. Works with 80mm to maybe 110 mm travel I think. So it works on a lightweight racing or cross country frame. I remeber this on the old Merlin race bikes. Yeti, Trek, and Scott used to use this rear end. Specialized too maybe still does. And lots of dated geometry Chinese frames.
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A very popular modern frame from carbonda also use it, the fm939.
http://carbonda.com/mountain/full-suspension/98.html
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A very popular modern frame from carbonda also use it, the fm939.
http://carbonda.com/mountain/full-suspension/98.html
That looks like a perfectly good cross country frame. But probably not a full on trail or AM bike.
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My son bought this frame (fm1001) and were trying to find a shock. RS makes a "Deluxe Nude" that has a M/M tune. 185x55, trunnion and remote. I THINK this will work, but the remote cable routing looks not great at the shock.
Has anyone built this frame up w/ a shock remote?
Shock:
https://www.sram.com/en/rockshox/models/rs-dlx-nude-b1
Thanks!
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My son bought this frame (fm1001) and were trying to find a shock. RS makes a "Deluxe Nude" that has a M/M tune. 185x55, trunnion and remote. I THINK this will work, but the remote cable routing looks not great at the shock.
Has anyone built this frame up w/ a shock remote?
Shock:
https://www.sram.com/en/rockshox/models/rs-dlx-nude-b1
Thanks!
I did not go with a remote lockout in my build. Personally I don't find it necessary to lock out the rear or the fork when climbing on this frame. To me there is little to no pedal bob.
Not sure how well the Deluxe Nude would work with this frame. The Super Deluxe Ultimate Remote might be a better option since it will be more inline with the cable vs perpendicular on the Deluxe Nude
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Shock tune question.
What has everyone been going with?
Any recommendations or tips?
Thanks!!
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I bought a Super Deluxe AIR with MegNeg and Custom Tuned by Mst Suspension for the Fm1001.
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Shock tune question.
What has everyone been going with?
Any recommendations or tips?
Thanks!!
I went with a Super Deluxe Ultimate 185x55 M tune with a Pike select 140mm upfront.
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So I know Vitus us the FM939 frame and NS use the front end of it but are any brands out there using the FM1001/FM1156 frame?
Also how are the bikes going, anyone had any issues yet?
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Are many people running this 130 front, 120 rear?
Haven't had an MTB (set up as an MTB) in 20 years. Don't really want to jump straight into bigger travel and heavier weight.
The Lexon / TopCarbon Riot looks fairly enticing, but the repeated reports of BB threads needing to be redone rather less so. Had my eye on the LC958 for ages, but there seem to be more and more quality issues with LC. FM936 is undoubtedly a good frame but there don't seem to be many people running it 120 or 130 front and 120 rear after a few experimented early. I guess it didn't work out so well? Workswell have a new 120mm rear travel down country frameset (364) coming this summer, but I'm not sure if they're likely to be reliable straight out of the gate, or if the design will require revision (see 958).
Any thoughts?
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I would go 140mm front. Maybe 150mm.
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I would go 140mm front. Maybe 150mm.
I guess that's a no to my first question then - and not a good idea.
So are people successfully running 936s either 130front 120rear, or 120/120, or does it mess up the geo too much? I know people are doing that with the 958, but there seem to be more and more unhappy LC customers these days.
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Is anyone interested in selling their FM1001/FM1156 Frame?
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Is anyone interested in selling their FM1001/FM1156 Frame?
I have a fs831 frame which i want to sell.
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I guess that's a no to my first question then - and not a good idea.
So are people successfully running 936s either 130front 120rear, or 120/120, or does it mess up the geo too much? I know people are doing that with the 958, but there seem to be more and more unhappy LC customers these days.
I would argue that most of the users in the 936 thread are running 120 front, and a lot of us have the OEM Fox shock from earlier in the thread that is 165x42.5 for somewhere between 110-115 travel. I have not seen anyone that is running a 130 front, and 165x45 rear will not work.
This frame is likely a good candidate for 130f/120r, it just seems that most people are using the longer travel option so not many builds to compare to.
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Looks like KHS is making a mid-stream change from their previous 2022 model 6600 to a repainted FM1001, their team racers have been posting newly received ones in the past few weeks:
https://khspromtb.com/2022/01/08/the-khs-6600-2022/
Some of their web pages still show the older “2022” 6600 with the same suspension travel, which looks nothing like the 1001. But their new one is very clearly a Flybike/Carbonda production, right down to the silver shock bolt.
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I have a fs831 frame which i want to sell.
Too much travel. There's a well priced LC FS947 that I'd be jumping at, but being realistic, I don't need more than 130mm travel. This FM1001 is perfect for my needs!
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Check this out:
https://www.pinkbike.com/news/first-ride-2022-canyon-spectral-125.html
(Canyon Spectral 125)
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Too much travel. There's a well priced LC FS947 that I'd be jumping at, but being realistic, I don't need more than 130mm travel. This FM1001 is perfect for my needs!
Despite the unfashionable-looking compact carbon rocker arm and upside down shock, I think the 1001/1002 is a more resilient frame than the 947 or most other comparable unbranded factory direct frames (or almost-direct, as in the case of Carbonda doing D2C with frames that I think Flybike is actually manufacturing).
The 947’s had a couple of reports of cracked stays already, which is a little ominous for a frame that’s only been available for about a year. And neither case looks like the rider was a heavyweight doing big jumps or anything. Barely more than JRA situations, from what I remember.
If my 1002 holds up well this year, I’ll be sorely tempted to build a 1001 next winter for the 2023 dirt season. Sophisticated suspension systems like linkage driven swingarms and high pivot idler linkages are obviously tempting but it’s so much easier to screw them up with a small oversight than it is with a four bar.
And these bikes have some of the best kinematics I’ve seen in a four bar, with the relatively manageable tradeoffs of low anti-rise (so some mild braking interference with suspension movement) and a regressive dip at the bottom of the travel so you’ll need an air shock with good end stroke progression. I don’t even think the latter is much of a factor on the 1001, because the dip mainly happens after 130mm of travel.
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The 947’s had a couple of reports of cracked stays already
Could you link these reports or did you hear it from somewhere else? I've heard of the seat stays possibly cracking when removing a bolt, but that was fixed. Never heard of any other cracking issues.
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Could you link these reports or did you hear it from somewhere else? I've heard of the seat stays possibly cracking when removing a bolt, but that was fixed. Never heard of any other cracking issues.
I’m already late heading out for a fat bike ride but IIRC one was in the 947 thread here (didn’t involve removing any bolts that I recall, happened on a ride I think) and the other was on one of the major general forums like Pinkbike or MTBR…the latter, probably.
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If you look at the 947, its chainstays are noticeably thinner and shaped differently than Carbonda/Flybike’s and the dropout area is proportionally much fatter. I remember noticing that imbalance in visual appearance of strength early on when I was considering buying one last year.
When I was doing internal routing on my 1002, I liked what I saw. Some carbon dust that should have been cleaned up at the factory, but nice wall thickness/shaping and solid seams. Smooth port areas that seemed to be part of the mold, rather than cut out after the fact as some are.
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I’m already late heading out for a fat bike ride but IIRC one was in the 947 thread here (didn’t involve removing any bolts that I recall, happened on a ride I think) and the other was on one of the major general forums like Pinkbike or MTBR…the latter, probably.
Dang must have missed that one, fingers crossed it wont happen to mine :-\
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Dang must have missed that one, fingers crossed it wont happen to mine :-\
I mean, I don’t intend to scaremonger. A couple of anecdotes don’t really mean anything, that frame’s been fairly widely built by individuals and by OEMs. I haven’t heard about any of those OEMs jumping ship.
I also don’t want to invite karma on my own build in overestimating it by comparison…I’m famously brutally rough on bikes, weigh -210lbs at the moment (hope to be a lot less by summer), and won’t even have a single ride on my 1002 for weeks yet.
Those anecdotes were on my mind when I chose the 1002 in December though, so it seems worth keeping the discussion about them alive. Not least because it could eventually help 947 owners avoid the issue, if there really is one.
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Just been out for my first ride on the carbonda 1001, really enjoyed it. It rides really well, climbs well and descends better than I thought it would. I'm running 140mm RS Lyrik and a 185x50mm shock for 120mm rear travel.
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I also posted this in the 1002 thread but it should be the same on both frames and maybe someone in this thread will have suggestions:
Any advice on how to make sure these wide mouthed cable grommets between the front triangle and chainstays sit where they’re supposed to and stay there? While running the internal routing they came out of place and it was almost impossible to get them to sit flush for some reason. I assembled the bike with them slightly imperfectly seated but now as I move the suspension to set up the shock (equalize the air chambers), they get yanked out of place.
I thought I had the two cables run more or less correctly, so I’m not sure disassembly and agonizing over the cables themselves would help anything. But I’m having a hell of a time pressing them back into place with any of the tools I have while the shock is disconnected and I have the linkage all the way compressed like this….and I worry that they’ll just come back out once the suspension moves again.
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I’ve been struggling with them long enough that the temptation to just rip them out and go without any is very strong, but then I’d be worried about dirt and water ingress….but frankly, even if they were working perfectly I’m not sure how much difference they’ll make anyway since they don’t create a very good seal even when you have the cables exactly straight on either side.
And I think mine are a little twisted in the front frame such that they want to exit through the middle of the opening rather than straight through the sides. That’s not necessarily something I think I can reliably change even if I did my cable routing all over again. What the cables do that deep in the frame isn’t easily visualized or controllable, even with a magnetic routing kit.
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Just received my Carbonda fm1001 from Katie, looks great. I just took a quick pic right out of the box.
I had it painted by them, the color is purple/green chameleon. Total cost shipped to Colorado was $1154.
Just starting to build it up, but wondering about frame protection.
@Neb, where did you get your chainstay protector and downtube/bottom bracket protection? I'm really liking the way yours looks and fits.
Thanks!
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I’ve been struggling with them long enough that the temptation to just rip them out and go without any is very strong, but then I’d be worried about dirt and water ingress….but frankly, even if they were working perfectly I’m not sure how much difference they’ll make anyway since they don’t create a very good seal even when you have the cables exactly straight on either side.
And I think mine are a little twisted in the front frame such that they want to exit through the middle of the opening rather than straight through the sides. That’s not necessarily something I think I can reliably change even if I did my cable routing all over again. What the cables do that deep in the frame isn’t easily visualized or controllable, even with a magnetic routing kit.
I answered you in the other thread.
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Just received my Carbonda fm1001 from Katie, looks great. I just took a quick pic right out of the box.
I had it painted by them, the color is purple/green chameleon. Total cost shipped to Colorado was $1154.
Just starting to build it up, but wondering about frame protection.
@Neb, where did you get your chainstay protector and downtube/bottom bracket protection? I'm really liking the way yours looks and fits.
Thanks!
1150 shipped seems like a lot, what was the price breakdown?
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1150 shipped seems like a lot, what was the price breakdown?
Here is a quote I got. Debating on what I want to get.
750USD/pcs
15USD for headset
15USD for rear axle
190USD for shipping cost
Then others mentioned 5USD for rear hanger.
Then that leaves a little over 175 for paint job?
As for sizing. Any thoughts on 5’6” (168cm) tal with 29.5” inseam (75cm)? Geometry reminds me a lot of my Trance X. Same rear shock travel. I ride a medium in that but some days it feels too big for me. Might be the Standover and the seat tube length. I’m leaning toward a small on this frame FM1001.
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My price breakdown was as follows:
750 USD for frame-M-BSA73 with standard matte finish
15 USD for headset
15 USD for rear axle
5 USD for derailleur hanger (the frame comes with one derailleur hanger )
195 USD by Air ,shipping time is about 7-15 days
125 USD for painting
4.5% Paypal fee (about $49)
$1154 was my total. Katie was really good about keeping me informed of the status of the frame, and she sent pictures of the finished frame before it was shipped over.
Total time from ordering until it arrived at my door was about 5 weeks. Not sure if this would have been shorter if I didn't have it custom painted.
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Just received my Carbonda fm1001 from Katie, looks great. I just took a quick pic right out of the box.
I had it painted by them, the color is purple/green chameleon. Total cost shipped to Colorado was $1154.
Just starting to build it up, but wondering about frame protection.
@Neb, where did you get your chainstay protector and downtube/bottom bracket protection? I'm really liking the way yours looks and fits.
Thanks!
Color looks great! I gotta ask how did you describe your color/paint scheme for them to paint it? I’d be interested in a sort of blue with purple glitter / chameleon look but not sure how that would be done. Did you just ask them for purple green chameleon effect? With RAL colors? What RAL code is your purple? Thanks!
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Here is a quote I got. Debating on what I want to get.
750USD/pcs
15USD for headset
15USD for rear axle
190USD for shipping cost
Then others mentioned 5USD for rear hanger.
Then that leaves a little over 175 for paint job?
As for sizing. Any thoughts on 5’6” (168cm) tal with 29.5” inseam (75cm)? Geometry reminds me a lot of my Trance X. Same rear shock travel. I ride a medium in that but some days it feels too big for me. Might be the Standover and the seat tube length. I’m leaning toward a small on this frame FM1001.
Look at https://www.llbmtb.com/ . Lee has a different approach to reach and size, but it seems to work. He doesn't agree with these super long bikes.
Hope this helps.
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I received my FM1001 XL today. $1,024 shipped to Colorado which took about 5 weeks. Box was a little tattered but no damage to the frame. Overall quality seems great at first review. Frame was 2,738 grams out of the box. A little heaver than I had hoped, but close enough.
I am going to try to wrap it using a Ride Wrap kit for an XL Transition Sentinel. Frames seem close and I will need to do some trimming. We'll see if that will work. It might be a disaster.
Plan to build it up over the next few weeks.
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Color looks great! I gotta ask how did you describe your color/paint scheme for them to paint it? I’d be interested in a sort of blue with purple glitter / chameleon look but not sure how that would be done. Did you just ask them for purple green chameleon effect? With RAL colors? What RAL code is your purple? Thanks!
Hi gd3fit,
Katie from Carbonda sent me a few pictures of the Purple/green chameleon, it wasn't a RAL color but it was already a pre-determined color scheme from them. I'm sure you could ask her for your colors and see what she says. They may have something like it already.
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Hi gd3fit,
Katie from Carbonda sent me a few pictures of the Purple/green chameleon, it wasn't a RAL color but it was already a pre-determined color scheme from them. I'm sure you could ask her for your colors and see what she says. They may have something like it already.
Thanks. I’ll do that. Been talking to Adam on Skype. Hopefully they can help.
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Just starting to build it up, but wondering about frame protection.
@Neb, where did you get your chainstay protector and downtube/bottom bracket protection? I'm really liking the way yours looks and fits.
Thanks!
My chainstay and downtube protector are the original ones from the Nukeproof Mega, they are £10 each from chainreaction cycles. They stick well and only need minor trimming.
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Thanks Neb for the info. I will look into that.
Just a heads up for anyone doing their own cable routing for this frame, it's a pain! I had a helluva time getting the housing through the frame, especially through the rear linkage. I ended up removing the bottom linkage near the bottom bracket to get more room to get the housing through. There is a sharp turn coming from the bottom bracket, out to the rear derailleur or rear brake line. I couldn't get the housing through from the derailleur/brake forwards to the bottom bracket, so I had to work from the bottom linkage backwards. For some reason the route to the rear derailleur was especially tough, the housing kept getting caught on something on the route. I had to cover my housing end with duct tape and a bit of grease to get it to slip through.
I used this method for getting it from the bottom bracket up to the dropper post or to the headset/bars, which worked fairly well:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kB7IsqXhAgg
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So i have now over half a year on this frame and I am pleased so far.
It was meant for trail riding and for this purpose it works well. Actually it is better on the downhills then I expected, but that can also be because I run it mullet so it is slacker and lower. At some point I will switch to 29” in the back because I would like the steeper seattube. Now I run the saddle slammed forward. I really see no negatives with steep seattube.
People have already pointed out the hassle to run the cables in the frame. I also noticed running them front to back seems to work best. Another thing is the rubber grommets, they are very tight and with both the brake and gear cable in the same grommet I never got it seated properly so now I have lost it.
The bolts need tightening regularly, but that is normal. The upper shock bolt is just crap quality, need to replace that one soon.
The seatstays gather water, when riding in the wet or washing the bike, there is always water in there. Turning the bike upside down empties it.
Sizing for me is good, L size and I am 179cm with 84cm inseam. Running 50mm stem, I tried a 35mm stem and that was nice going down but felt cramped while seated. I think I could run the XL but not the M, depends of course on the kind of riding one is doing.
Overall a good frame with modern geometry and suspension that works well.
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Do you notice any problems with the rubber grommets removed? Dirt getting in the openings?
I’m hoping to get the ones on my 1002 seated better and make them stay put but if I can’t, I’ve been wondering what it’s like to ride the bike without them long term.
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Do you notice any problems with the rubber grommets removed? Dirt getting in the openings?
I’m hoping to get the ones on my 1002 seated better and make them stay put but if I can’t, I’ve been wondering what it’s like to ride the bike without them long term.
Did you try what I suggested?
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Did you try what I suggested?
I’m having a local mechanic try redoing the routing along those lines. Won’t hear from him for a few more days at least.
I managed okay with my first try (and the rest of the initial build), but I’m a disabled rider with severe autoimmune arthritis and tend to get really beat up by late winter storms around here so I decided to have him give it a shot rather than destroy my back and maybe still not get it right.
Once that’s taken care of, I’ll probably start my own build thread with more regular updates about what I’m up to with that bike.
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Do you notice any problems with the rubber grommets removed? Dirt getting in the openings?
I’m hoping to get the ones on my 1002 seated better and make them stay put but if I can’t, I’ve been wondering what it’s like to ride the bike without them long term.
Well I just recently lost it, but didn’t notice anything yet.
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Did you try what I suggested?
Just picked the bike up from the mechanic, he wasn’t able to get them to stay perfectly in place (tried everything either of us could think of, complete disassembly, forcing the cables to sit straight with an interior zip tie, you name it) but did get them so they don’t pull out or bind nearly as much on movement.
I’m going to try it like this since the grommets still form a decent seal this way, and if they become a problem again I’ll probably try removing them.
Not exactly the complete resolution I was hoping for but it’ll do for now.
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Just picked the bike up from the mechanic, he wasn’t able to get them to stay perfectly in place (tried everything either of us could think of, complete disassembly, forcing the cables to sit straight with an interior zip tie, you name it) but did get them so they don’t pull out or bind nearly as much on movement.
I’m going to try it like this since the grommets still form a decent seal this way, and if they become a problem again I’ll probably try removing them.
Not exactly the complete resolution I was hoping for but it’ll do for now.
Would this issue be better, worse, the same if using AXS with just a brake line running through it?
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Would this issue be better, worse, the same if using AXS with just a brake line running through it?
That’s exactly what I’ve wondered, since one of the very first 1002s seen in the wild (the Bike Of The Day post with metallic silver paint) had an AXS derailleur. I always had a feeling there was a specific reason for that, but even if the owner always planned to run wireless I’d love to ask him what his experience with the linkage routing grommets has been.
My guess is that with just the one cable, they’ll be less likely to pull out of place because the whole action happens on a curve that causes the traction with the grommets and only one cable going through would probably be easier for the grommet lips (the outer ones that hold onto the frame) to cope with.
I could see trying it at some point if I fall in love with this frame otherwise and want to keep it long term, but for now I don’t think spending GX AXS money makes sense in my case. I’ve got to establish some basic trust over a few rides with this frame, the bearings and provided headset before I start thinking about anything nearly that drastic.
If I were making a recommendation to somebody planning their 1001/1002 build now though, I’d say if you can afford wireless it might be a much less headache inducing experience. Frankly I’m amazed that there are only two of us who’ve reported struggling with this issue and that both have only posted about it in the past couple weeks; with KHS, Sherpa and others selling the 1001 I have to assume this is usually a manageable issue if it is one at all, but we’ll see what happens when I actually ride my 1002 on intense terrain.
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Does anyone know where to source some new frame cable grommets? I would imagine they are a standard part rather than specific to carbonda. It's only a matter of time until I lose one!
On a related note, I've noticed some cable rattle, so I've fastened zip ties around the cables as they enter the frame, seems to work so far. I might add a neoprene over sleeve when I replace the cables
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Does anyone know where to source some new frame cable grommets? I would imagine they are a standard part rather than specific to carbonda. It's only a matter of time until I lose one!
On a related note, I've noticed some cable rattle, so I've fastened zip ties around the cables as they enter the frame, seems to work so far. I might add a neoprene over sleeve when I replace the cables
When I installed mine, I used Jagwire damping tubing as much as possible. I also have a big bag of Jank Components cable clips which are some of the best I’ve found, and have three set up to keep the cables from slapping each other in the cockpit area.
Hopefully the combination keeps things quiet because I felt like I spent a huge part of the lifespan of my current branded bike chasing one rattle or creak or some noise or another, convinced something was being damaged or about to break.
I too would be very interested in replacement grommets — not just the linkage ones but all of the cable entry/exit points on 1001 & 1002 frames. I’m also looking into third party options for the 1.5” headset.
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Just building up my FM1001 now. I was able to run the cables without too many problems. I ended up removing some of the rear linkage bolts, laying frame on the ground, and running cables back to front.
Front grommet with two cables coming out of it is a tight fit. It doesn't quite sit fully flush but I'm hoping it will do for now.
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I've finally been able to get my bike built up and taken out for its shake down run, my first impressions have me impressed and very happy with choosing this frame.
The bike feels so incredibly stable at speed, but nimble in the corners.
Taking into consideration I've downsized on the frame size, I'm 184cm tall, I think I have got the right balance that I was looking to achieve for my riding style, yet, coming from a dirtjump and freeride mtb background, will give me that manouverbility and clearence for the inevetible moment that I forget I'm not 20 years younger and attempt something stupid
There's a few things that need fine tuning. Getting the suspension set up, the gears need a little tweek to get them crisp, I need to adjust the calipers to remove a slight brake rub, change the saddle, and remove the stickers of the spokes
but overall the bike is pretty close to perfect and Im very happy with how its turned out.
Size M
Rockshox Super deluxe 185mm x 55mm
Rockshox pike 150mm
ELITEWHEELS 29er MTB Carbon Wheels
Schwalbe Magic Mary 2.4" front, Schwalbe Big Betty 2.4" rear tyres
Shimano XT M8100 shifter
Shimano XT M8100 rear derailleur
Sram GX Eagle XG-1275 10-50t cassette
Sram GX Eagle 12 Speed Chain
ZTTO DH 32T-38T MTB Chain Guide
Race Face Next-R MTB Crankset 170mm
Blackspire Snaggletooth Narrow Wide Cinch Chainring 34t
Race Face Cinch BSA30 Bottom Bracket
crankbrothers Stamp 1 Pedals large
Nukeproof Horizon Stem 40mm
Nukeproof Horizon V2 Alloy Riser Handlebar (35mm) 25mm rise
Lizard Skins Peaty Cheers Grip Lock-on Grips
Magura MT7 Pro HC Disc Brake 180mm rotors front and rear
crankbrothers Highline 3 MTB Dropper Seatpost 170mm drop
Shimano SL-MT800-L Dropper Seatpost Lever
Specialized saddle (temporary)
(https://i.imgur.com/jq9KTy1.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/GaIa2Kc.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/NE6XCOd.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/BSCMzwW.jpg)
Edit to resize images
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That color is just gorgeous. Nice choice.
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You took a Medium with 184cm??? Really... You could take a XL, L would be Down sizing.
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Anyone else having trouble looking at those pics on a monitor? They are so bloody big I see about 1 tenth of a pic on the screen at a time. (22" monitor)
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Anyone else having trouble looking at those pics on a monitor? They are so bloody big I see about 1 tenth of a pic on the screen at a time. (22" monitor)
Same.
Also, just ordered a FM1001 in size XL, and I'm 184 cm
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Anyone else having trouble looking at those pics on a monitor? They are so bloody big I see about 1 tenth of a pic on the screen at a time. (22" monitor)
Image sizing seems really bad in general on this site. I usually right click photos and open in a new tab (in Chrome) and then it'll auto scale well.
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Image sizing seems really bad in general on this site. I usually right click photos and open in a new tab (in Chrome) and then it'll auto scale well.
When I do that the end up about the size of the thumbnails on this site.
I find it very annoying and have tried to raise it several times but it generally seems to fall on deaf ears.
Have a similar issue on MTBR but generally only with one or two serial offenders that post screen shots from the latest and greatest iclones, frigging images end up huge and any text is just blurry.
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When I do that the end up about the size of the thumbnails on this site.
I find it very annoying and have tried to raise it several times but it generally seems to fall on deaf ears.
Have a similar issue on MTBR but generally only with one or two serial offenders that post screen shots from the latest and greatest iclones, frigging images end up huge and any text is just blurry.
you need to click the thumbnail to load the larger image and then right click the larger image and make sure to choose open image in new tab and not open link in new tab
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you need to click the thumbnail to load the larger image and then right click the larger image and make sure to choose open image in new tab and not open link in new tab
Thank you. That seems to work and saves me downloading the images.
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I'm unsure if I should buy a Large or Medium frame. I'm 180cm tall with an 84cm Inseam, the size chart would lean towards a Large with a reach of 472 but I've been reading the sizing guide from Lee McCormack (LeeLikesBikes) and that suggests I get a Medium at 450 reach.
My current bike Nukeproof Scout Large has a reach of 450 (466 Sagged) but with a 35mm stem the front keeps lifting on steep climbs and it feels a little cramped, but when I had a longer stem on the bike I suffered from cyclist palsy and my fingers went numb. So do I need something longer or shorter... What do you guys think?
Also, question 2. What is the BB height on this bike? I'm considering building it as a 27.5 initially to save a buck and I'll buy a new fork and wheelset later on. But if the BB is too low that won't work.
What are everyone's thoughts?
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Front grommet with two cables coming out of it is a tight fit. It doesn't quite sit fully flush but I'm hoping it will do for now.
This was the one I lost! All the other ones sit nicely and were easy to get seated. That was probably why I lost it since cables move when riding. I was thinking about cutting part of it off to sit better but never got to try that. They are of course not 100% waterproof anyway.
When riding I don’t notice anything, no noise or rattling. Maybe I can do some electric tape ghetto solution.
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I'm unsure if I should buy a Large or Medium frame. I'm 180cm tall with an 84cm Inseam, the size chart would lean towards a Large with a reach of 472 but I've been reading the sizing guide from Lee McCormack (LeeLikesBikes) and that suggests I get a Medium at 450 reach.
My current bike Nukeproof Scout Large has a reach of 450 (466 Sagged) but with a 35mm stem the front keeps lifting on steep climbs and it feels a little cramped, but when I had a longer stem on the bike I suffered from cyclist palsy and my fingers went numb. So do I need something longer or shorter... What do you guys think?
Also, question 2. What is the BB height on this bike? I'm considering building it as a 27.5 initially to save a buck and I'll buy a new fork and wheelset later on. But if the BB is too low that won't work.
What are everyone's thoughts?
Your Scout has 73 degree seattube so you are sitting on the rear axle while climbing, that is why the front wheel is lifting. This frame is completely different.
Sizing based only on reach is strange on a frame that most people ride sitting most of the time. The XL doesnt even have as much effective toptube as your Scout has. So on an M size you would feel very cramped while sitting, unless you use a really long stem. The difference is over 60mm!!
27.5” inch wheels will give you a low bottom bracket but should be rideable, at least with short cranks. My mullet setup has a 332mm bb static and 170mm cranks. Your would be at least 10mm lower.
But all this is dependent on riding style, terrain and preference so there is no right or wrong answer.
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First, apollogies for the image size, I've edited my original post, I'm on a 27" screen and didn't realize how badly it would scale on smaller screens.
That color is just gorgeous. Nice choice.
Thank you, it's a candy red over a metalic black, has a nice flip from a deep burgandy, to a vibrant blood red, depending on the light, I need to get some pics in strong sunlight to show how the colour "pops"
You took a Medium with 184cm??? Really... You could take a XL, L would be Down sizing.
An XL would have been to big for me, and have me to stretched out for my comfort, but yes a L would have been the more appropriate size for me, however the diference between the L and M is 22mm on the reach and 13.5mm on the stack, I'm currently running a 40mm stem so can find an extra 10mm there if needed by switching to a 50mm stem and can switch to a 35mm riser bar if I feel I need the extra height.
But from my initial test ride the bike feels very comfortble and not at all cramped, I'll find out for sure once i take it on a longer ride, but I think at most, I'll just have to switch a spacer to below the stem.
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First, apollogies for the image size, I've edited my original post, I'm on a 27" screen and didn't realize how badly it would scale on smaller screens.
Willow, no need to apologise, it is a very common issue and obviously, if it was noticeable to the person posting they wouldn't have posted that way, it's just the way the site scales pics for various user interfaces. It's also not just restricted to this site, but this does seem to be worse than most of the others I visit.
Thank you for taking the time to edit the post. The portrait pics still don't quite fit on my screen but are close enough that I can see how fantastic your bike looks, well done, you must be happy with it. I'm sure they would fit fine if google banners and window tool bars weren't occupying real estate top and bottom. That colour really does look great.
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I'm the same height and took a Large. I very nearly ordered an XL due to the top tube length being so short. I've fitted a 50mm stem to lengthen the bike a bit. The medium would have been far too small for me (my other bike has a top tube of 630mm, the large FM1001 is 600mm).
It climbs and descends really well, so I'm happy I made the right decision
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It climbs and descends really well, so I'm happy I made the right decision
[/quote]
Thanks Neb, how is the pedaling comfort? I often have long XC style grinds?
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Your Scout has 73 degree seattube so you are sitting on the rear axle while climbing, that is why the front wheel is lifting. This frame is completely different.
Sizing based only on reach is strange on a frame that most people ride sitting most of the time. The XL doesnt even have as much effective toptube as your Scout has. So on an M size you would feel very cramped while sitting, unless you use a really long stem. The difference is over 60mm!!
27.5” inch wheels will give you a low bottom bracket but should be rideable, at least with short cranks. My mullet setup has a 332mm bb static and 170mm cranks. Your would be at least 10mm lower.
But all this is dependent on riding style, terrain and preference so there is no right or wrong answer.
Thanks Freda. What if I threw a 160mm 27.5 fork on the bike? That'll raise the BB enough until I get a chance to go 29er...
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I'm also 180cm tall and followed Lee Likes Bikes suggestion and went with the medium. I can say it fits me quite well and totally happy. I really think had I listened to those that said to get a large I would have been very unhappy. I do not feel cramped while in the seated and this is with a 38mm stem. And I do all my climbing while seated. Looks like willow79 who is taller at 184 says the medium fits him well even though a large would probably fit him well too. Don't know if you watch any of the vids on YouTube where Lee talks about sizing but he has a bunch of good info. At the end of the day none of us can tell what size is right for you.
PS. I think its interesting that those who went with a large are running longer stems then those that went with the medium. You would think it would be other way around
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Thanks Freda. What if I threw a 160mm 27.5 fork on the bike? That'll raise the BB enough until I get a chance to go 29er...
At least in theory a 27.5” 160mm fork should be the same as a 29” 140mm fork static. Still with more travel it changes more while riding so the feel is different. If it is positive or negative I don’t know. But of course you can ride it!
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I'm also 180cm tall and followed Lee Likes Bikes suggestion and went with the medium. I can say it fits me quite well and totally happy. I really think had I listened to those that said to get a large I would have been very unhappy. I do not feel cramped while in the seated and this is with a 38mm stem. And I do all my climbing while seated. Looks like willow79 who is taller at 184 says the medium fits him well even though a large would probably fit him well too. Don't know if you watch any of the vids on YouTube where Lee talks about sizing but he has a bunch of good info. At the end of the day none of us can tell what size is right for you.
PS. I think its interesting that those who went with a large are running longer stems then those that went with the medium. You would think it would be other way around
It is interesting, I'll look into the Lee likes bikes videos about sizing. I guess it doesn't matter as long as you enjoy riding it! But I do like to understand theory of things like this.
I'm keeping my old bike for the moment, so part of me choosing a Large and 50mm stem is to replicate the sizing so it isn't too different to swap between bikes.
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Took the bike out for longer ride today, and I'm even more happier with my choice in this frame, absolutley flys down hill, yet is so smooth pedaling uphill, with very little bob.
With it being a glorious sunny day I got a few more pics
(https://i.imgur.com/4pBxkcb.jpg)
So difficult to capture the colour in a picture, but did catch the metalic sparkle showing through the candy on the top tube in this shot
(https://i.imgur.com/zLvMTuT.jpg)
This last pic gives a good shot of all the colour variation in the "red" in the sunlight
(https://i.imgur.com/CAnEXrJ.jpg)
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I've decided to go with an FM1001 and build it 120/120 as a durable, slack down country bike.
Manitou R7 Pro up front and Manitou Mara at the rear.
Can anyone comment as to whether they think the 44mm offset or 51mm offset fork would be more suitable?
My assumption is that 51mm would be normal. But presumably as I'm losing a little bit in axle to crown length due to lower travel, I'll be operating with a bit less trail than normal. Would going with the lower offset fork to increase trail be desirable?
I'm really not very knowledgeable at all about MTB geo and its effect on ride and the suspension.
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I've decided to go with an FM1001 and build it 120/120 as a durable, slack down country bike.
Manitou R7 Pro up front and Manitou Mara at the rear.
Can anyone comment as to whether they think the 44mm offset or 51mm offset fork would be more suitable?
My assumption is that 51mm would be normal. But presumably as I'm losing a little bit in axle to crown length due to lower travel, I'll be operating with a bit less trail than normal. Would going with the lower offset fork to increase trail be desirable?
I'm really not very knowledgeable at all about MTB geo and its effect on ride and the suspension.
Running the rear at 120 doesn’t change geometry, but a 120 fork would be a *drastic* change in a generally unhelpful direction. When I was thinking of getting a 1001 (and I still might at some point if I’m happy with my 1002), I planned to run it with a 160 fork and most people run it with a 150.
Remember that no matter what you do with the rear travel, the geometry was designed around a 140 fork and most people like modern MTBs with an extra 10mm front travel over stock.
You might think that a less slack head angle is okay for a “downcountry” type setup but you’ll also be steepening the already steep seat angle to a fair ridiculous degree. Pedaling at that angle could get uncomfortable and the bike would likely be tippy, prone to going over the handlebars at the slightest provocation.
Really wouldn’t recommend it. Personally if I was going to run a 1001 at 120mm frame travel I’d probably go with a 140 fork, minimum.
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Bear in mind the frame is sold by a Spanish brand in 120/120mm config and I believe there was mention of another doing it too. It would seem odd for them to do if FlyBike didn't support it or felt the geometry was messed up.
Still, duly noted.
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I don't think the change in seat and head angles are that significant. Possibly you might think they'd be more, and I feared they would be after you highlighted it. I used a calculator to check though.
Going from a typical 547mm 140mm fork to a 524.5mm R7 Pro results in 78.1° > 79.1° SA and 65.5° > 66.5° HA.
Reach is up 10mm and stack down by 8mm, but I can add a spacer and steeper SA will basically mean parity on reach.
1° difference definitely isn't going to make descending dangerous. There are more extreme numbers stock these days on some bikes.
I think the moral of the story is that wheelbases are so damned long on modern MTBs, even losing or adding a couple of cm to Axle to crown won't effect angles too unduly.
Does seem like the 51mm offset fork would be better (if I can source it) as wheelbase would lose 9.2mm instead of 16.8mm.
Anyway, thanks for raising what you did, as your concerns led me to look into it further. And it looks ok to me.
Further edit. Adding one of these will https://www.bike24.com/p2332941.html will cut STA and HTA angle changes to 0.5° for each.
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I would consider the shorter fork offset if you want the bike to handle better at higher speed.
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hey there.
I joined the FM1001 club. ordered my frame as well and I'm currently building it. the first ride is on its way
(https://foto-thumbnails.mtb-news.de/cache/980_auto_1_1_0/97/aHR0cHM6Ly9mc3RhdGljMS5tdGItbmV3cy5kZS92My8yNi8yNjM4LzI2Mzg4NDgtcG40dmxpZjhxM2p4LWltZ184MDE1LW9yaWdpbmFsLmpwZw.jpg)
if you wanna follow the (german) build up, you can find it here:
https://www.mtb-news.de/forum/t/a-trailbike-downcountry-plastik-kfz-carbonda-fm1001-aufbau.957596/
best from germany
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hey there.
I joined the FM1001 club. ordered my frame as well and I'm currently building it. the first ride is on its way
(https://foto-thumbnails.mtb-news.de/cache/980_auto_1_1_0/97/aHR0cHM6Ly9mc3RhdGljMS5tdGItbmV3cy5kZS92My8yNi8yNjM4LzI2Mzg4NDgtcG40dmxpZjhxM2p4LWltZ184MDE1LW9yaWdpbmFsLmpwZw.jpg)
if you wanna follow the (german) build up, you can find it here:
https://www.mtb-news.de/forum/t/a-trailbike-downcountry-plastik-kfz-carbonda-fm1001-aufbau.957596/
Reading an English translation of the thread, it looks like you’re asking about a replacement shock bolt? I used a BetterBolts 40mm Transition shock bolt on my 1002. Although this is my first time ever using a titanium shock bolt and I haven’t been able to ride it on trails yet, I have faith in BetterBolts’ quality.
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Reading an English translation of the thread, it looks like you’re asking about a replacement shock bolt? I used a BetterBolts 40mm Transition shock bolt on my 1002. Although this is my first time ever using a titanium shock bolt and I haven’t been able to ride it on trails yet, I have faith in BetterBolts’ quality.
yes you're right. but I already ordered one from switzerland and replaced it with the original one. fits perfect. it was an advice from another german user.
the build up is getting slowly done because of covid. may in the next days it will be finished.
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I'm thinking about a Syncros Fraser IC SL DC bar. I assume integration should work on this frame, provided I find a suitable headset and cover. There aren't exactly many Z56/28 top headsets available. Syncros' own solution isn't available to order until August. Acros appear to do one however.
https://acros-components.com/en/products/core/headsets/10074/zs56-headset-upper-part-for-integrated-cable-routi
Presumably it should work?
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consider that you have to reassemble brakes/shifter if you wanna change something...
here you can see the original headset you can order on carbonda as well
(https://foto-thumbnails.mtb-news.de/cache/980_auto_1_1_0/1f/aHR0cHM6Ly9mc3RhdGljMS5tdGItbmV3cy5kZS92My8yNi8yNjM4LzI2Mzg4NTYtYnE3OTRnYmZjbnRkLWltZ184MDI5LW9yaWdpbmFsLmpwZw.jpg)
headset is good but I changed the nonsealed cone/taper to a sealed one from cane creek. the dust cap (full aluminium) wasnt sealed too, so i bought one from acros.
now the headset is sealed.
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consider that you have to reassemble brakes/shifter if you wanna change something...
here you can see the original headset you can order on carbonda as well
(https://foto-thumbnails.mtb-news.de/cache/980_auto_1_1_0/1f/aHR0cHM6Ly9mc3RhdGljMS5tdGItbmV3cy5kZS92My8yNi8yNjM4LzI2Mzg4NTYtYnE3OTRnYmZjbnRkLWltZ184MDI5LW9yaWdpbmFsLmpwZw.jpg)
headset is good but I changed the nonsealed cone/taper to a sealed one from cane creek. the dust cap (full aluminium) wasnt sealed too, so i bought one from acros.
now the headset is sealed.
Thanks. I saw ACR on the 1001 spec but somehow ignored it. So it actually supports internal cable routing from the get go. Also I was thinking ZS but it's IS.
As you're saying the factory one is non-sealed and has no cover, rather than replacing bits piecemeal I guess it'd be better just to get this acros one? Is there a reason why you didn't just do that?
https://acros-components.com/en/products/core/headsets/10830/is52-upper-part-for-integrated-cable-routing-icr?c=219
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Thanks. I saw ACR on the 1001 spec but somehow ignored it. So it actually supports internal cable routing from the get go. Also I was thinking ZS but it's IS.
As you're saying the factory one is non-sealed and has no cover, rather than replacing bits piecemeal I guess it'd be better just to get this acros one? Is there a reason why you didn't just do that?
https://acros-components.com/en/products/core/headsets/10830/is52-upper-part-for-integrated-cable-routing-icr?c=219
I bought the original headset just to build it up quick.
but i dont want to use the internal cable routing because of the named reasons above.
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Here are a few pics of my recent build. I'm really enjoying the ride - both up and down. Very solid bike. Suspension is great coming from a hardtail. I'm ~6'2" or 188 cm and went with the XL which is the correct size for me. It weighs in at 13,610 grams or 30.0 pounds as shown.
Build includes:
Salsa carbon handlebar
Pike 140mm fork
XT brakes
Thompson stem
Roval Traverse carbon wheels
Maxxis Rekon 29x2.6 tires (with plenty of clearance)
XX1 cranks
One Up 150mm dropper
MTB Rocket saddle
Fox DPS Performance shock
SRAM 10-50 1x12 drivetrain
One Up composite flat pedals
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I build up my FM1001 but couldnt really ride it. It looks more like a Mini Enduro to me 8)
Here are some Details:
(https://foto-thumbnails.mtb-news.de/cache/980_auto_1_1_0/e1/aHR0cHM6Ly9mc3RhdGljMS5tdGItbmV3cy5kZS92My8yNi8yNjQyLzI2NDI0NDQtejF3bW92NzFiOWdxLWltZ184MDk2LW9yaWdpbmFsLmpwZw.jpg)
(https://foto-thumbnails.mtb-news.de/cache/980_auto_1_1_0/3b/aHR0cHM6Ly9mc3RhdGljMS5tdGItbmV3cy5kZS92My8yNi8yNjQyLzI2NDI0NDUtcjlkZGozaW91ZmpoLWltZ184MDk3LW9yaWdpbmFsLmpwZw.jpg)
(https://foto-thumbnails.mtb-news.de/cache/980_auto_1_1_0/81/aHR0cHM6Ly9mc3RhdGljMS5tdGItbmV3cy5kZS92My8yNi8yNjQyLzI2NDI0NDIteHAwMHpsOGFjbjMyLWltZ184MDk0LW9yaWdpbmFsLmpwZw.jpg)
(https://foto-thumbnails.mtb-news.de/cache/980_auto_1_1_0/5e/aHR0cHM6Ly9mc3RhdGljMS5tdGItbmV3cy5kZS92My8yNi8yNjQyLzI2NDI0NDctNzZlNWdhN3c0YTIyLWltZ184MTA4LW9yaWdpbmFsLmpwZw.jpg)
(https://foto-thumbnails.mtb-news.de/cache/980_auto_1_1_0/13/aHR0cHM6Ly9mc3RhdGljMS5tdGItbmV3cy5kZS92My8yNi8yNjQyLzI2NDI0NDYtZWNxcGw5dHU0b2xoLWltZ184MTAyLW9yaWdpbmFsLmpwZw.jpg)
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(https://foto-thumbnails.mtb-news.de/cache/980_auto_1_1_0/2c/aHR0cHM6Ly9mc3RhdGljMS5tdGItbmV3cy5kZS92My8yNi8yNjQyLzI2NDI2NjEtcDBpY2pmbmk0MnR5LWltZ184MDkxLW9yaWdpbmFsLmpwZw.jpg)
(https://foto-thumbnails.mtb-news.de/cache/980_auto_1_1_0/17/aHR0cHM6Ly9mc3RhdGljMS5tdGItbmV3cy5kZS92My8yNi8yNjQyLzI2NDI2NjItY3FncGF3czFzMHQyLWltZ184MDkzLW9yaWdpbmFsLmpwZw.jpg)
14,7kg
this thing is fast as f**k - holy gosh.
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(https://foto-thumbnails.mtb-news.de/cache/980_auto_1_1_0/13/aHR0cHM6Ly9mc3RhdGljMS5tdGItbmV3cy5kZS92My8yNi8yNjQyLzI2NDI0NDYtZWNxcGw5dHU0b2xoLWltZ184MTAyLW9yaWdpbmFsLmpwZw.jpg)
What’s this little protective flap you have installed there? I’ve been looking for something like that to protect the cable ports there on my FM1002 — I’ve already drained a fairly ridiculous amount of water from the stays after washing the bike and can only imagine how much gunk could build up inside there over time!
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What’s this little protective flap you have installed there? I’ve been looking for something like that to protect the cable ports there on my FM1002 — I’ve already drained a fairly ridiculous amount of water from the stays after washing the bike and can only imagine how much gunk could build up inside there over time!
this is just slapper tape to protect the frame and the little slot between front and rear triangle.
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What length axle shipped with your frame? I got a 181 length and it seems a tad short.
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There’s a bit of horizontal slack in the rear triangle that gets taken up when you tighten the axle, so if you’re just eyeballing it without a wheel in place and the axle tightened that can be deceptive.
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Curious if anyone has documented what size bearings are being used? I removed my rear shock to service it and noticed the bearings for the lower mount are starting to seize up. I'm worried about the other bearings and what condition they might be in. I kick my self for not taking note of all the bearings when I had the frame apart to paint it.
As far I know the lower shock mount is using a 6801 VRS 12mmx21mmx5mm.
I think the rear triangle pivots are using 6901 12mmx24mmx6mm but haven't verified.
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I too would like the complete FM1001/1002 bearing specs (I think they use the same on both frames). I haven’t noticed any obvious issues yet but want to upgrade to Enduro Max bearings.
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I too would like the complete FM1001/1002 bearing specs (I think they use the same on both frames). I haven’t noticed any obvious issues yet but want to upgrade to Enduro Max bearings.
Enduro bearings any good? My local auto hardware stores supplies ntn,nsk,skf,nrb. I'm able to find my bearing sizes namely 6800&6902 not sure which maker tho. I don't think they are bike specific but rubber seal ones should work right?
Factory bearing is attached, im very skeptical about grease quality and thinking about replacing bearing before the first year.
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Enduro bearings any good? My local auto hardware stores supplies ntn,nsk,skf,nrb. I'm able to find my bearing sizes namely 6800&6902 not sure which maker tho. I don't think they are bike specific but rubber seal ones should work right?
Factory bearing is attached, im very skeptical about grease quality and thinking about replacing bearing before the first year.
Enduro Max is specifically for MTB suspension pivots and Santa Cruz is always boasting about how they include them with free replacements on all their FS bikes for life. They’re generally considered the best, both in terms of how the bearings and shells hold up as well as the quality of the seals.
I’ve run them on my GT Force for two very intense years of big mountain riding with only a slight creak recently that finally got me to replace them. No other bearing has lasted more than a few months on that bike…it takes a seriously brutal pounding on the rocks in the mountains of Maine and logs a ton of vert.
I’ve got about 250 miles on my FM1002 and to be honest I’m rather impressed that the OEM bearings aren’t smoked yet. I have absolutely not been gentle, and the bike has been rinsed with a hose many times as well as absolutely sandblasted with fine granite dust.
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Enduro bearings any good? My local auto hardware stores supplies ntn,nsk,skf,nrb. I'm able to find my bearing sizes namely 6800&6902 not sure which maker tho. I don't think they are bike specific but rubber seal ones should work right?
Factory bearing is attached, im very skeptical about grease quality and thinking about replacing bearing before the first year.
Enduro seems to be the standard for MTB. Like FullCarbonAlchemist said they are specifically for MTB. In my quest for searching for bearings NTN seems to be another high quality brand but they are not bike specific.
Is that a picture of the lower shock bearing? Which frame do you have, 1001 or 1002? If reading the numbers correctly that's a 6902 which is 15mmx28mmx7mm.
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I too would like the complete FM1001/1002 bearing specs (I think they use the same on both frames). I haven’t noticed any obvious issues yet but want to upgrade to Enduro Max bearings.
Would assume they are the same as well.
I haven't noticed any issues with other than when removing the shock but I'm coming up on 500miles on this frame so who knows. There seems to be very little movement at the lower shock mount so thinking maybe a bushing would be better...
I am fortunate to have the drawing for the FM1001 and I've highlighted what should be the bearings in yellow.
Line 22 is the lower shock bearings
Line 10 rocker and the lower chain stay main pivot
Line 4 is the lower chain stay (rear axel) and upper seat stay (seat stay attaches to the rocker arm) bearings
Not sure what bearing lines 10/4 are. 4 might be the 6901.... Just not sure what 26.5 or 30.5 represents
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The bearings should be full compliment (usually called max in the bike world), that's the most important for frame bearings. The hardware store ones are usually with a cage.
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Enduro seems to be the standard for MTB. Like FullCarbonAlchemist said they are specifically for MTB. In my quest for searching for bearings NTN seems to be another high quality brand but they are not bike specific.
Is that a picture of the lower shock bearing? Which frame do you have, 1001 or 1002? If reading the numbers correctly that's a 6902 which is 15mmx28mmx7mm.
I have LC947 thats the rocker arm and dimensions are correct. I'm interested in bearings tho ;D
The bearings should be full compliment (usually called max in the bike world), that's the most important for frame bearings. The hardware store ones are usually with a cage.
I did a quick research about the bearing type and kinda have conclusion for bearing.
Correct me if I'm wrong.
Caged bearing for faster where there is not much load.
Full compliment for load and slower bearing can also take some shock.
LLU for full contact, better seal and more drag.
LLB for non contact, slightly less seal spec hence less drag.
For pivot bearings LLU and full compliment seems to be the right choice then.
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My upper headset cup has developed play. Has anybody else noticed this? The bearings are in good condition but it is impossible to get fork tightened without play. The lower one is still ok.
With a brand frame this would be a warranty issue for sure but with this one I am not sure..
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My upper headset cup has developed play. Has anybody else noticed this? The bearings are in good condition but it is impossible to get fork tightened without play. The lower one is still ok.
With a brand frame this would be a warranty issue for sure but with this one I am not sure..
You’re confident that this is an issue with the frame and not the OEM headset?
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Yes I am. The bearings are fine. Also the fact that I can easily install and remove them by hand without force. The upper one is moving slightly sideways when in place. The lower one is also easy to put there but I don’t notice it moving when in place.
I am trying some thin tape in between now to not make it worse, it seems tight but haven’t ridden it yet.
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Yes I am. The bearings are fine. Also the fact that I can easily install and remove them by hand without force. The upper one is moving slightly sideways when in place. The lower one is also easy to put there but I don’t notice it moving when in place.
I am trying some thin tape in between now to not make it worse, it seems tight but haven’t ridden it yet.
I had the same issue with my frame. You need some spacers between the top headset race 'wedge' and the top cap. The top cap is bottoming out on the top of the head tube and therefore not tensioning the bearings.
https://shop.fullspeedahead.com/en/prodotti_1/micro-spacer (https://shop.fullspeedahead.com/en/prodotti_1/micro-spacer)
To test the fix, I used a 10mm steerer spacer initially under the top cap,it created a big gap between the top of the head tube and the top cap, but there was no movement. Worth a go to confirm.
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I had the same issue with my frame. You need some spacers between the top headset race 'wedge' and the top cap. The top cap is bottoming out on the top of the head tube and therefore not tensioning the bearings.
https://shop.fullspeedahead.com/en/prodotti_1/micro-spacer (https://shop.fullspeedahead.com/en/prodotti_1/micro-spacer)
To test the fix, I used a 10mm steerer spacer initially under the top cap,it created a big gap between the top of the head tube and the top cap, but there was no movement. Worth a go to confirm.
This sound logical! The bearings have a cone shape so might work. I have one thin spacer that came with the headset, but maybe that is not enough. I need to get more of those thin spacer to try.
The thin tape is also working, but it is more of a ghetto solution. Two rides now and so far so good.
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This sound logical! The bearings have a cone shape so might work. I have one thin spacer that came with the headset, but maybe that is not enough. I need to get more of those thin spacer to try.
The thin tape is also working, but it is more of a ghetto solution. Two rides now and so far so good.
I think I needed 3 to remove all the play in the headset. It was really confusing as I was tightening the preload so much the bearings felt rough, but still had a loose headset. It has been rock solid since I added the extra 2 spacers
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Interesting. I didn't have any issues with the OE headset. Only had to use one of the thin spacers that came with it. I did develop a creak that I thought was the headset (but turned out the be a loose bottom bracket). When taking apart the headset I noticed corrosion/rust on the thin metal spacer and the upper race. Guessing this happened from washing the bike. Since the OE top cap doesn't have anything to keep water from getting in be careful with adding more spacers. Believe FullCarbonAlchemist had the same issue. Ended up ditching the OE headset and now using the FSA headset to hopefully avoid any future problems.
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The cheap headsets you get from the frame builders or from Aliexpress for $10-15 are perfectly valid.
Just put a generous amount of marine grease on top of each bearings and they will last as long as the branded headsets you may try.
Stainless steel bearings from Aliexpress last a bit longer, but maybe not worth the extra cost.
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Thoughts on a 140mm vs 150mm fork? The KHS build with this frame is running 150mm, and it looks like a lot of brands run 150mm front with 130mm or 140mm rear for their own trail/all-mountain frames, or 130mm front and 120mm rear for a traditional trail spec. I was wanting to use the 135mm rear spec and was planning to use a 140mm fork but questioning that choice now. 150mm puts you in the next category for Rockshox and Fox, but the Lyrik can be dropped to 140mm where the Fox 36 can not.
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I ride it with a lyric 140mm, it is all good! I like the rockshox forks when you can easily change the travel.
If you go with 150mm fox it will most probably be just as good. 10mm is such a small amount that it doesn’t matter. Small geo change of course but not significant.
I think it is more about what you want the bike to be like, lighter for easy terrain or more capable but heavier. Same thing with the shock, piggyback or not? It’s all about the type of riding you do.
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Hey guys I’ve been reading these FM1001 posts since Oct. ‘21. Just joined the forum this week. Ordered and received my XL FM1001 frame in March via Wing @ Carbonda, and just finished the build a few days ago as I disassembled it, painted, etc. Been riding MTB for over 25 years and have several bikes, so I was patient with the build. Specs: Rockshox 150mm Lyrik Ultimate (42mm os) with WolfTooth Maxle and NWT cable retainer, Rockshox Super Deluxe Ultimate 185/55, One Up V2 210mm dropper, Truvativ Desc. 170mm carbon cranks, Shimano XT 12 speed & SLX 7100 four pods on 203’s f&r, Spank 40mm rise 780mm bars, 50mm stem, etc. I apparently have been sent the FM1002 frame, or it has the wrong linkage… something. The Horst rocker link sits nosed down toward the shock at proper sag, and the upper triangle contacts the seat tube approx. 11mm before full compression of the 185/55 shock. Awaiting response from Carbonda.
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I apparently have been sent the FM1002 frame, or it has the wrong linkage… something. The manufacturer sticker inside the head tube reads FM1001. The Horst rocker link sits nosed down toward the shock at proper sag, and the upper triangle contacts the seat tube approx. 11mm before full compression of the 185/55 shock. Awaiting response from Carbonda.
It looks like your frame has the slight kink in the top tube of the FM1002. The FM1001 looks like a straight top tube. I don't own either bike. Just looking at pictures.
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Yeah that definitely looks like a 1002 to me!
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Yep after communicating more measurements & pics with Wing @ Carbonda… it apparently is the FM1002 front triangle. The rear stuff is the same. Man at this point I really wish I would have checked more thoroughly before stripping it (checked bearing tolerances while there), painting, and finishing the dang assembly
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On the bright side you did get a more expensive, longer travel frame for a cheaper price (assuming you paid the FM1001 price). At this point you just need to get a proper rear shock for that frame.
Any chance you noted the numbers on the bearings?
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True, but I specifically wanted the lesser travel 135mm frame with lesser wheel base. But, it looks like I’m keeping the existing 150mm frame and Carbonda is working out a deal for me to receive another FM1001 frame. So, if all goes as said… I’ll still come out ok and will build the FM1002 soon as well with a 160mm fork and a coil shock. More builds coming in my near future. I’ll leave plenty of feedback on both bikes when the time comes
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Any thoughts about a 185x55 shock vs a 185x50mm shock? I think it's 120mm vs 135mm rear travel. I'm currently enjoying the bike with 120mm rear suspension but I can't help thinking if I'd prefer 135mm...
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Any thoughts about a 185x55 shock vs a 185x50mm shock? I think it's 120mm vs 135mm rear travel. I'm currently enjoying the bike with 120mm rear suspension but I can't help thinking if I'd prefer 135mm...
Well like I have said before, it depends what you are using the bike for. I believe the suspension on this frame is so good that you don’t loose much effectiveness with 135mm travel, so for trail riding I like 135mm travel. But if you mainly ride very easy and smooth trail there is no need for more then 120mm. Then again if 120mm is enough I would go with a lighter frame like the Carbonda fm936.
Also with 135mm you can even use 130-150mm fork, but with 120mm rear travel maybe 130-140mm would be better.
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My local trails are very steep and rocky, 120mm has been fine so far, the 29er and 120mm feels very similar to my other bike which is 160mm and 27.5.
Thanks for the feedback, I was worried that the extra travel could make the suspension a bit less poppy, I'll give 135mm a test.
Thanks
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Can anybody, please, measure head tube length of L-size including head set caps (if there any protruding)?
As per specification, it should be 120mm, but some millimeters extra and head-set cap/spacer can make my already cut fork unusable for this frame... Thanks a lot, Filip
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Can anybody, please, measure head tube length of L-size including head set caps (if there any protruding)?
As per specification, it should be 120mm, but some millimeters extra and head-set cap/spacer can make my already cut fork unusable for this frame... Thanks a lot, Filip
I have the the carbonda headset and about 6mm of extra with the top cover. Nothing between the fork and lower edge.
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I going to the bike park soon so I decided to try a 160mm fork on this. It feels good while going downhill, but on normal trails the riding position is just too far back. This is also setup as mullet. The fm1002 is probably much better for more downhill oriented riding.
I did some measuring from photo and it seems with the mullet setup one loose one degree of head- and seattube angle and an additional degree with the 20mm longer fork. It is not exact of course but seems reasonable.
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That’s good to know, I’ve enjoyed my FM1002 so much that I’m thinking about selling my branded bike this fall and doing another winter build of a 1001 for next spring as my “backup” bike for local riding (1002 is optimized for the big mountain trips) or when the 1002 is in for service. I had originally planned on running it with a 160 fork, whereas I have a 170 on the 1002.
I might have to plan for a 150 fork if the consensus among 1001 owners is that 160 is too much. I do like to overfork my other bikes by at least 10mm though and prefer a high front end roughly level with the saddle (and I run a fairly high seatpost).
This question of fork travel is one I still haven’t decided on, nor exactly which size frame to get; I run the Large 1002 which fits pretty well, and am generally between a Large and XL on most frames (6 feet tall, long legs) so I’m thinking XL given the 1001 apparently runs a half size small….
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That’s good to know, I’ve enjoyed my FM1002 so much that I’m thinking about selling my branded bike this fall and doing another winter build of a 1001 for next spring as my “backup” bike for local riding (1002 is optimized for the big mountain trips) or when the 1002 is in for service. I had originally planned on running it with a 160 fork, whereas I have a 170 on the 1002.
I might have to plan for a 150 fork if the consensus among 1001 owners is that 160 is too much. I do like to overfork my other bikes by at least 10mm though and prefer a high front end roughly level with the saddle (and I run a fairly high seatpost).
The fm1001 and fm1002 would make a good pair, fm1001 with lighter components and rolling tyres. The fm1002 more beefy equipped with 170mm fork. Then you have a bike for all kinds of terrain.
For trail riding the steep seattube is so nice and I would not want to loose that by overforking, 65-66 degrees headtube angle also seems to be a sweet spot for easier trails.
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Does anyone have experience with Carbonda wheels? Or can anyone recommend some good carbon wheels that'll be ok for the odd rough day out?
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Does anyone have experience with Carbonda wheels? Or can anyone recommend some good carbon wheels that'll be ok for the odd rough day out?
I've been using btlos rims on ztto hubs (dt swiss style) and they've been great.
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So I have been doing much more downhill then I intended lately on this bike because my enduro/bikepark bike project is seriously late.
With the 160 fork it is so capable, however on normal trails, climbing and easy riding I would strongly recommend the 140 fork. Still as a light all round bike this is great, especially since you have the fm1002 as option for more travel/slacker but more or less same kinematics.
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Since receiving the wrong frame (FM1002 instead of the FM1001), Wing @ Carbonda made things right. I can now report that after some back & forth communication I’m the owner of both frames. I did pay my part though, but at a discount. So, thanks to Wing! Thoroughly enjoying the FM1001 here in the rough and burly Appalachian Mountains of SE Tennessee, north Ga and NC. Running the 150mm fork as well on the FM1001 XL frame as I’m 6’3”. Loving the fact that both frames easily swallow the One Up 210mm dropper! Currently building the FM1002 back up with a 160mm fork. Great setups!
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Hi everyone, in an other discussion one of you suggest me to buy the fm1001 for a light downcountry/trail bike.
So I wrote to Carbonda and they sent me an estimate that is not cheap at all, such as 750$ and 195$ shipping tax included, plus paypal fees so around 1000$ so right now 1000€!! (I’m from Italy).
For a similar frame, Lightcarbon charges 780 bucks, shipping and taxes included, but I managed to understand that their frame had some frequent issues, am I right?
So i wanted to ask to all of you that have far much more experience that I have these questions:
-does it worth that money? (I read all of your comments, and I think you’re all quite happy with carbonda)
- they charge 15$ for the headset and 15 for the rear axle, are they any good or is it better to buy better quality components from other brands?
- Is it the same to buy from flybike? ( are they 100% the same company?)
They also suggest me workswell, are they good or are they similar to Lightcarbon? ( in terms of frequency of issues)
Thank you so much, I’m learning so many new things in this forum! :)
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Flybike doesn’t sell directly to consumers, as far as I’m aware.
Generally speaking that ~$1000 is getting you a tougher bike with more up to date geometry than the equivalent LightCarbon at $780. Some might also argue the 1001/1002 is better looking than most of its competitors in the “catalog frame” market. It’s up to you to decide if that makes the higher price worth it.
I think I’m happier with my 1002 than I would have been with a LCFS947 for example.
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As for the optional parts, I would skip the basic 1.5” headset Carbonda offers and get one from FSA or similar. I had some issues with my Carbonda headset which others have also described: lets water in, and develops creaky play in a short amount of time.
The rear axle they offer works fine, and isn’t terribly heavy or anything so I don’t see the point in getting one from a different company.
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Thank you!! You made everything clear!! :)
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As for the optional parts, I would skip the basic 1.5” headset Carbonda offers and get one from FSA or similar. I had some issues with my Carbonda headset which others have also described: lets water in, and develops creaky play in a short amount of time.
The rear axle they offer works fine, and isn’t terribly heavy or anything so I don’t see the point in getting one from a different company.
I would at the very least get the Carbonda stuff so you aren't potentially out of luck finding other brands. There is someone on this board that decided not to get the headset and was stuck with a frame they couldn't build because they couldn't source another headset.... for the relatively little money, it's worth it for the peace of mind at the very least.
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I'm in the process of building up two frames and seem to be having issues with the derailleur hanger. I think I have the hanger installed in the correct orientation but on both frames when the rear wheel is installed and the axle is just hand tight (not even close to the torque spec) the wheel is very snug and will only spin a few times due to drag (one set with I9 Hydras actually free wheels b/c it is so tight). Did anyone else have any issues like this?
Can someone post a picture from inside the chainstay showing the hanger installed?
Thanks
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Yes, FullCarbonAlchemist- well explained
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Derailleur hanger mounting
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I would at the very least get the Carbonda stuff so you aren't potentially out of luck finding other brands. There is someone on this board that decided not to get the headset and was stuck with a frame they couldn't build because they couldn't source another headset.... for the relatively little money, it's worth it for the peace of mind at the very least.
It makes sense, but maybe FullCarbonAlchemist can also publish the link for a right headset that he used? I found this one, but I don't know if it works: https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/fsa-orbit-1-5-zs-headset-no-57e-/rp-prod80065
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It makes sense, but maybe FullCarbonAlchemist can also publish the link for a right headset that he used? I found this one, but I don't know if it works: https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/fsa-orbit-1-5-zs-headset-no-57e-/rp-prod80065
Someone else recommended this one.
https://www.bike-discount.de/en/ritchey-comp-cartridge-drop-in-1.5-upper-headset
I am using that top with carbonda stock bearings on the bottom.
This also works https://www.fsaproshop.com/products/no-55r-1-5-558
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Both of those are good. I used the FSA.
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Will a Fox Float X2 fit on this frame??
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Will a Fox Float X2 fit on this frame??
It doesn't fit on the FM1002, which has the same suspension design. The non-trunnion side that sticks up is too big and hits the frame on the seat tube.
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I'm thinking about ordering a FM1001 XL, how happy is everyone with their bikes? How's the rear suspension working, how's the climbing performance? Open mode sufficient or lockout necessary? How does the bike feel going downhill?
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I really like mine. I don't touch the lockout (partly because I can't reach it!) but also I don't feel it is needed. The bike climbs well without the lockout.
The descending is very good, my frame is currently set up for 120mm suspension and it feels like much more. I'm selling my other bike, a 160mm cotic rocket, as I prefer the Fm1001 for descending.
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I’m currently re-working the FM1002 setup, and putting miles on the FM1001. All around I’m absolutely loving the all around ability of the FM1001 (150mm RS Lyrik Ultimate fork)! It’s taking a beating through 200 miles of East TN black diamond stuff. Climbs well, descends well, and I’m happy. I’m 6’3” and both are XL frames, which are actually more like a Large sizing and fit. I do need to try a longer stem than the current 50mm to further adjust the reach with the 40mm rise bars. Can’t go wrong with either of these frames
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This frame's geometry is almost exactly the same as my FM10 except that the reach is about 0.5" shorter and the effective top tube length is 1.5" shorter. Also I had a 140mm travel fork on the FM10 vs 150mm on the FM1001. The FM10 felt like riding a chopper at times when I first got it. This bike feels completely different and seems to have a shorter turning radius. A few times going down drops the front wheel has gotten a little squirrely since my weight was so far forward on the fork. The steering is much more responsive all around and I'm still learning to use the improvement in control. Beyond that the change from X-Fusion to top tier Rockshox has been the biggest difference. The ability to lay down power over rocks and roots makes the ride much more relaxed and saves energy. I have more confidence in keeping traction through rough turns and the load on my arms and shoulders has decreased significantly.
I added the RWC roller bearing to the top shock mount. The drag on the suspension was surely insignificant to the shock response but it just bugged me. :)
It's around 28.4 lbs with pedals.
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This frame's geometry is almost exactly the same as my FM10...
Aren't the hoses entering the frame a bit too short?
If you fall and the steerer goes right the frame there will be tension.
And you didn't want to have the front brake hose inside between the wheel and the fork? I guess to not be grabbed by a branch or any obstacle.
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Aren't the hoses entering the frame a bit too short?
If you fall and the steerer goes right the frame there will be tension.
The bars go way past 90 degrees but there is tension at that point. Now I'll probably do the next ones a little looser. :)
And you didn't want to have the front brake hose inside between the wheel and the fork? I guess to not be grabbed by a branch or any obstacle.
That's the route Rockshox intended and the same way everyone else routes it?
I do need to trim the steerer tube a little and round the carbon spacer at the top. There's a razor sharp edge that could slice skin easily and the protruding steerer tube could do some puncture damage to the chest.
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The bars go way past 90 degrees but there is tension at that point. Now I'll probably do the next ones a little looser. :)
That's the route Rockshox intended and the same way everyone else routes it?
I do need to trim the steerer tube a little and round the carbon spacer at the top. There's a razor sharp edge that could slice skin easily and the protruding steerer tube could do some puncture damage to the chest.
Yes, next time, aiming for a tight 180º maybe safer 8)
Not sure if there is a reason for the inner wiring, except protecting it to be teared off easily.
Rockshox has usually a tightening plate and screw to attach the hose inside.
Just a quick search on pictures on forks and found this one: https://www.bicycling.com/bikes-gear/mountain-bike/a31684408/rockshox-sid-ultimate-review/
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It's around 28.4 lbs with pedals.
What size frame? I was a little sad when my 936 came in around high 27's with full XT, carbon rims and rekon race tires... but I got the standard layup not superlight. I was a little sad until I remembered that my trail bike is 36lbs lol.
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Aren't the hoses entering the frame a bit too short?
If you fall and the steerer goes right the frame there will be tension.
And you didn't want to have the front brake hose inside between the wheel and the fork? I guess to not be grabbed by a branch or any obstacle.
I run substantially shorter cables than that on my FM1002 with no problem. Have been twisted around a couple of times in low-speed stumbles, zero issues.
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I run substantially shorter cables than that on my FM1002 ...
It can be indeed a great way to prevent the bar going over the top tube if you crash ;D
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What size frame?
Large. The 19" FM10 was 29 lbs with the same components.
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That's the route Rockshox intended and the same way everyone else routes it?
When you say it is the way everyone routes it, who do you mean by that? I have seen exactly nobody ever route their brake hose external to the fork. If you do a Google search for rockshox lyrik, you won't find a picture of the brake hose routed external, all of them internal. As rockshox intended.
Which brings me to that other point - when you say it is the route rockshox intended, what do you mean by that? Because if you look at the rockshox guide you will see that is the opposite of what they suggest.
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I have seen exactly nobody ever route their brake hose external to the fork.
Read through this thread and you'll see it's about 50/50.
If you do a Google search for rockshox lyrik, you won't find a picture of the brake hose routed external, all of them internal.
This is pretty much true. All of them look awkward to me. Just because one guy does something one way and everyone follows doesn't make it the right way.
Because if you look at the rockshox guide you will see that is the opposite of what they suggest.
This is BS. I checked. It just says to "secure the disc brake hose into the guide". The guides on forks are different. Mine clearly directs the housing around the outside of the fork tube.
On the surface, and as a purist, one would say it should be routed internally so that it isn't exposed to the "elements" and because it's a naturally cleaner look. However, if you look at how closely it's routed to the fork there is little chance of something getting caught. I'd say I've got a much better chance of getting a cedar branch stuck in my eye. Also, every time I ride I get a stick tossed up into my spokes and kicked around. Having the cable routed internally increases the chances of that stick getting lodged and breaking a spoke.
In the end I've wasted way too much of my life on this subject. :D
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Well good luck having it done the wrong way.
And yes, sram absolutely DO recommend you do it the right way. If you don't want to believe their docs, send them an email.
Yes, every manufacturer on the planet routing it correctly does make it the right way. Some random bike building novice doing it wrong doesn't make his way the right way.
But whatever, you do you and have your brake hose routed the wrong way.
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It can be indeed a great way to prevent the bar going over the top tube if you crash ;D
At the angles they’re set on, and with some slack inside the frame, I’ve had the bars go past the top tube and they do pull a bit but don’t actually yank the bars to a hard stop as they spin unless you go way past that 90 degree angle. You can definitely run them a lot shorter than with some other frames (particularly externally routed ones that run along the down tube with exit points a lot lower or further back than these ports) without it being particularly risky.
That said, I would never in a million years run my brake line on the outside of the fork, any more than I’d ever be caught dead running the kind of huge, tree-hooking bullhorn bar ends my first MTB came with in 1993. Partly due to the substantial possibility of literally being caught dead running them. Because they killed me.
But mainly because they’re bad bike fashion. Which is a far worse offense!
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I have seen exactly nobody ever route their brake hose external to the fork.
This is just an old school way of hose routing. Ten years ago it was quite popular, but of course internal routing is better. Even better is hose routing on Manitou forks ;)
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Well good luck having it done the wrong way.
And yes, sram absolutely DO recommend you do it the right way. If you don't want to believe their docs, send them an email.
Yes, every manufacturer on the planet routing it correctly does make it the right way. Some random bike building novice doing it wrong doesn't make his way the right way.
But whatever, you do you and have your brake hose routed the wrong way.
This is the kind of person you start talking to in a bar and quickly start trying to find someone else to talk to. :P
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This is just an old school way of hose routing. Ten years ago it was quite popular, but of course internal routing is better. Even better is hose routing on Manitou forks ;)
Not true, this is not old school unless you mean couple weeks old is old school, and quite popular mean 3 people assembling bikes for what looks like the first time ever.
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Cable routing between the forks legs is extremely important!
Just kidding, it really doesn't matter much. The main reason the brake house should be routed between the fork legs is to prevent brake hose damage in a crash. The fork's cast metal lowers are ready to protect your brake hose from sharp rocks and impacts.
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FM10 has 74 seat tube angle compared to 78 of FM1001. That is big difference and clear explanation of its longer effective top tube...
I actually like steep seat post more than I anticipated!
This frame's geometry is almost exactly the same as my FM10 except that the reach is about 0.5" shorter and the effective top tube length is 1.5" shorter. Also I had a 140mm travel fork on the FM10 vs 150mm on the FM1001. The FM10 felt like riding a chopper at times when I first got it. This bike feels completely different and seems to have a shorter turning radius. A few times going down drops the front wheel has gotten a little squirrely since my weight was so far forward on the fork. The steering is much more responsive all around and I'm still learning to use the improvement in control. Beyond that the change from X-Fusion to top tier Rockshox has been the biggest difference. The ability to lay down power over rocks and roots makes the ride much more relaxed and saves energy. I have more confidence in keeping traction through rough turns and the load on my arms and shoulders has decreased significantly.
I added the RWC roller bearing to the top shock mount. The drag on the suspension was surely insignificant to the shock response but it just bugged me. :)
It's around 28.4 lbs with pedals.
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One thing I'm still interested in, is there much pedal bob when pedalling? Antisquat appears to be relatively low in the linkage analysis I have seen. Are you guys using the climb switch a lot?
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One thing I'm still interested in, is there much pedal bob when pedalling? Antisquat appears to be relatively low in the linkage analysis I have seen. Are you guys using the climb switch a lot?
For me, I feel this frame has very little pedal bob. I've never locked out the rear shock and I believe I've only locked out the fork twice. Both were on steep fire road climbs that would never end. It didn't make any difference. I was just pooped!!
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One thing I'm still interested in, is there much pedal bob when pedalling? Antisquat appears to be relatively low in the linkage analysis I have seen. Are you guys using the climb switch a lot?
The 1001 and 1002 pedal similarly (same linkage, only the front triangle and shock size vary)…the 1002 is one of the best pedaling 4-bar bikes I’ve ever tried. Sure it bobs a little when steeply climbing like pretty much any full suspension bike — but the difference between it and the most efficient designs out there (CBF/DW Link, VPP etc) really isn’t that dramatic in my experience.
Exotic suspension systems will always be able to eke out a little more pedaling and/or bump performance than a 4-bar but not necessarily by enough to justify the price or complexity differences.
I’ve learned along the way that graphs are a useful guide but since they aren’t presented in a standardized format or scale, it can be tough to compare them at a glance. I learned way more by riding two drastically different 4-bars and then looking at the graphs with my experiences in mind than I ever did by just looking at the graphs the two different companies put out even though their starting and average leverages were similar. The different graph scales exaggerated the differences in their curves — the reality was far more subtle.
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The 1001 and 1002 pedal similarly (same linkage, only the front triangle and shock size vary)…the 1002 is one of the best pedaling 4-bar bikes I’ve ever tried. Sure it bobs a little when steeply climbing like pretty much any full suspension bike — but the difference between it and the most efficient designs out there (CBF/DW Link, VPP etc) really isn’t that dramatic in my experience.
Exotic suspension systems will always be able to eke out a little more pedaling and/or bump performance than a 4-bar but not necessarily by enough to justify the price or complexity differences.
I’ve learned along the way that graphs are a useful guide but since they aren’t presented in a standardized format or scale, it can be tough to compare them at a glance. I learned way more by riding two drastically different 4-bars and then looking at the graphs with my experiences in mind than I ever did by just looking at the graphs the two different companies put out even though their starting and average leverages were similar. The different graph scales exaggerated the differences in their curves — the reality was far more subtle.
I also built a FM1002. When I bought the bike, I thought I was missing out on new suspension platforms, because 4-bar is an older design. Now looking around online, I see a lot of experienced riders prefer 4-bar suspension over VPP and DW-link. I'm totally surprised, as I thought it was old tech.
Although, like you said, it seems like 4-bar bikes can ride/support very differently. I have no idea if the FM1001/2 bikes is the type of 4-bar bikes that pros like to ride. I think it is the type of 4-bar that climbs well in lower gears. If you want it to climb well, use a smaller front chainring.
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Kinematic analysis and "corrections" to the geometry chart.
https://insanityofgravity.blogspot.com/2021/02/8-linkage-check-fly-bike-fm1156.html
Suggestion for shock
https://insanityofgravity.blogspot.com/2021/02/17-linkage-welch-art-von-luft-oder.html
Found these browsing the interweb so not my analysis. Not sure if this has been posted here already.
TLDR:
- Pretty flat leverage curve.
- Relatively low antisquat.
- The blogger suggests Megneg shock
- Geo chart isn't quite accurate.
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... Relatively low antisquat ...
The low anti-squat is kind of surprising, so the FM1002 is a more efficient climber?
Here is that linkage check:
https://insanityofgravity.blogspot.com/2020/11/6-linkage-check-carbon-rahmen-von.html
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I'm not sure you can claim 1002 is a better climber than 1001 from one number given all the variables involved, but the 1002 seems to have higher anti-squat numbers.
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Kinematic analysis and "corrections" to the geometry chart.
https://insanityofgravity.blogspot.com/2021/02/8-linkage-check-fly-bike-fm1156.html
Suggestion for shock
https://insanityofgravity.blogspot.com/2021/02/17-linkage-welch-art-von-luft-oder.html
Found these browsing the interweb so not my analysis. Not sure if this has been posted here already.
TLDR:
- Pretty flat leverage curve.
- Relatively low antisquat.
- The blogger suggests Megneg shock
- Geo chart isn't quite accurate.
Not sure if you can trust this one... He seems to use the diagram from the geo chart, which would be very unreliable.
I used the vector graphic sent to me from carbonda and got very different results, especially concerning anti squat and head angle.
Here's a screenshot. I put in a 30t chain ring as well and the same Center of Gravity at 650 above the BB, since that affects the anti squat greatly.
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Thanks, your values look much better.
You assumed a CG of 650mm above BB with a S size frame and he used 650 for an M size. Shouldn't your CG be a tad bit lower which would result in even better values? Or am I getting something wrong here?
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No, you're right. Smaller frame = (usually) shorter rider = lower CoG. I just used 650mm to make the results comparable :)
Edit: btw, the size M frame will even have a slightly higher anti squat. Small difference though.
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It doesn't fit on the FM1002, which has the same suspension design. The non-trunnion side that sticks up is too big and hits the frame on the seat tube.
From Carbonda:
(https://i.imgur.com/vTwmtQml.png)
Anyone actually try this shock (obviously a trunnion style, instead of pictured)?
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I can't recommend anyone try an X2 to be honest. Reliability is a SERIOUS concern, and as someone with both an X2 and a 2022 Float X (having traded them back and forth on the same bike), as well as a Super Deluxe Ultimate Air on another bike..... On an FM1001, do yourself a favour and dodge the X2.
The X2's reliability is worsened when frames have worse alignment. YMMV with chiners, although Carbonda is one of the better ones out there!
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Personally I’d suggest a DVO Topaz or Topaz G3. They’ll pro-level custom tune it for you for $100 extra, which is practically unheard of in the industry.
Been very happy with a stock Topaz on my 1002, but I have a feeling a custom tune would unlock some additional plushness in this case.
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Any time I’ve seen someone switch from an X2 to a Topaz, they were consistently very pleased with the difference. Excellent combination of plushness and support. None missed the extra damping adjustability, interestingly enough - partly because the adjustable bladder pressure replaces some of that, and partly because the unique Topaz damper is “floating” in a way that self-adjusts based on air pressure/rider weight, bladder pressure and sag %.
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does anyone know what the maximum dropper post insertion for a XL frame is?
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I wasn't able to fully insert my oneup 210mm dropper post into a large fm1001 frame. About 25mm was left. There should be enough length, but there was some carbon left as part of the manufacture that prevented it going in any further.
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does anyone know what the maximum dropper post insertion for a XL frame is?
Around 265 mm on my XL frame (OneUp 180mm just about fits showing <5mm seatpost under the collar).
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thanks, if it's indeed 265mm then I should be able to fit the 210mm OneUp post on the XL frame and there still is the option to shim it down 20mm if it doesn't work out
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After exchanging a few messages with Wing I've finally ordered my 1001 (and a 707, but that's a different story). Really looking forward to build the bikes.
Now painting, shipping and some shopping. Even though the 1001 will mostly use parts from my current bike. I've already ordered the shock, a new dropper and the air shaft to extend my Fox 34 to 140mm. Almost everything else will be switched over.
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Hey everyone, wanted to re-visit the topic of bearings for this frame. I have been able to identify all the bearings used on this frame. Below are the bearings/quantity
Rocker arm pivot/main chain stay pivot:
F6902-EA - x4. This is a flanged bearing
Seat stay/Chain stay pivots:
F6901 - x8. This is a flanged bearing
Lower shock mount:
6801 - x2
As of right now Enduro carries the f6902-EA and the 6801. Currently they do not carry the F6901. The good news is I have exchanged some emails with Enduro, and it looks like they will be adding the F6901 to the catalog. No ETA but sounds like they will have the standard version and the MAX version.
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My plan for my 1002 (identical linkage) after its first full riding season and 725 hard miles was to replace the main pivot and rocker arm main bearing, then inspect the other smaller bearings and just grease them if no wear or play was apparent. Ideally I’d just replace the whole set to be completely sure any rear end flex or creaking isn’t related to bearing wear.
Is there another vendor folks would suggest for the F6901s? I constantly test that frame’s limits and if I can’t get Enduro Max soon enough (within 4-5 months from now), I’d like to get the next best thing.
Also, what’s the significance of these being flanged bearings? I’ve never replaced my own suspension bearings before but I do have a press for the job, and am wondering if this changes much or anything about what I’d have to do to get the job done without damaging the frame.
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My plan for my 1002 (identical linkage) after its first full riding season and 725 hard miles was to replace the main pivot and rocker arm main bearing, then inspect the other smaller bearings and just grease them if no wear or play was apparent. Ideally I’d just replace the whole set to be completely sure any rear end flex or creaking isn’t related to bearing wear.
Is there another vendor folks would suggest for the F6901s? I constantly test that frame’s limits and if I can’t get Enduro Max soon enough (within 4-5 months from now), I’d like to get the next best thing.
Also, what’s the significance of these being flanged bearings? I’ve never replaced my own suspension bearings before but I do have a press for the job, and am wondering if this changes much or anything about what I’d have to do to get the job done without damaging the frame.
I was unable to find anything other than a generic bearings. Probably the same bearing that in the frame now. The indication I got from the rep was the non-MAX version would be available in less than a month and the MAX version would be a "few months".
Since it was raining all last weekend I ended up partially taking apart the rear triangle to verify what bearings were there. When inspecting the bearings both the F6902 and F6901 were still spinning smoothly. This is after putting 795 miles on the frame. I wont say I'm hard on this bike but the majority of those miles is going through rock gardens. I'm confident these will last for a while but I still plan on buying a full set of Enduro bearing once the F6901 MAX version in available. The only bearing that I have to absolutely replace are the 6801s. When I serviced the shock back in June the were crunchy and when I service the shock last weekend they are pretty much toast.
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I recently installed a Megneg onto my Rockshox Deluxe, at the same time I increase the shock stroke from 50mm to 55mm, so effectively increased the rear suspension to 135mm. The Megneg seems to have helped keep the suspension progressive, I previously used all of the volume tokens to make the shock ramp up, the megneg gives better sensitivity at the start of the stroke and also increases the ramp up at the end. So a win win.
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I recently installed a Megneg onto my Rockshox Deluxe, at the same time I increase the shock stroke from 50mm to 55mm, so effectively increased the rear suspension to 135mm. The Megneg seems to have helped keep the suspension progressive, I previously used all of the volume tokens to make the shock ramp up, the megneg gives better sensitivity at the start of the stroke and also increases the ramp up at the end. So a win win.
Funny you bring this up. I've been thinking about doing the MegNeg to my Super Deluxe Ultimate. Good to hear you are liking it. Hope to find it on sale.
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I already have the Megneg Parts at home for my upcoming build, will install it with on a Deluxe Ultimate. Made the payment for my frames last week and should receive pictures of my painted frames in the coming days.
Currently I'm very busy at work, but come January I should have time to start rebuilding my fork and remove parts from my current bike.
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Good Morning - long time lurker with his frame shipping today!! Thanks ADAM!
Question - what lengths of bolts are needed to successfully mount calipers for 180F/180R? Using Shimano SLX Four Piston M-7120 and RochShox Pike fork.
Thanks in advance for all of the tips and advice contained herein.
My color scheme is F1 Red Bull - hoping the Blue Black has some Blue Hue (or its going to look much like my unpainted CFR696 Gravel Rig!)
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Hello all, I'm very interested in this frame, but not sure what size would fit(M or L). I'm 175cm(5'9'') and have 82cm inseam. I find the STA of this frame is quite steep. That causes a relatively short top tube. I wonder if a medium will feel cramped or uncomfortable during some long and flat pedalling. But a large seems to be very long (it has 472mm reach and a 440mm seat tube length). My Current bike is a Giant Trance 2017 size M which has a 435mm reach, 73.5 degree of STA and 610mm top tube length. Should I go for a large? Or a medium of FM1002?
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Hello all, I'm very interested in this frame, but not sure what size would fit(M or L). I'm 175cm(5'9'') and have 82cm inseam. I find the STA of this frame is quite steep. That causes a relatively short top tube. I wonder if a medium will feel cramped or uncomfortable during some long and flat pedalling. But a large seems to be very long (it has 472mm reach and a 440mm seat tube length). My Current bike is a Giant Trance 2017 size M which has a 435mm reach, 73.5 degree of STA and 610mm top tube length. Should I go for a large? Or a medium of FM1002?
This question gets asked a lot about this frame and pretty much every one says this frame runs on the smaller side. Well... I seem to be the exception. I'm 5'11" and went with the M frame. I find it fits me perfectly. I've never felt "cramped" when in the saddle for long climbs. This is with a 40mm stem, 35mm rise bars. At 5'9" I would say you are a medium. Others will probably tell you to get a large. Again, for me I would buy the FM1001/FM1002/FM1003 in a medium
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This question gets asked a lot about this frame and pretty much every one says this frame runs on the smaller side. Well... I seem to be the exception. I'm 5'11" and went with the M frame. I find it fits me perfectly. I've never felt "cramped" when in the saddle for long climbs. This is with a 40mm stem, 35mm rise bars. At 5'9" I would say you are a medium. Others will probably tell you to get a large. Again, for me I would buy the FM1001/FM1002/FM1003 in a medium
Thanks a lot! That's very helpful.
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The saddle cuts your height in two.
Your torso and arm length define more the size of the frame you need.
Your inseam will only make the vertical drop between the saddle and the bar.
So for the same height, shorter legs may need a L.
While longer legs will need a M.
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That's the normal experience on the super modern fit, a kind of small effective top tube in the seated position. You get the full reach/length/wheelbase when you stand up. You can go a size up, but personally I'd rather deal with a tigher seated position.
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Hello all, I'm very interested in this frame, but not sure what size would fit(M or L). I'm 175cm(5'9'') and have 82cm inseam. I find the STA of this frame is quite steep. That causes a relatively short top tube. I wonder if a medium will feel cramped or uncomfortable during some long and flat pedalling. But a large seems to be very long (it has 472mm reach and a 440mm seat tube length). My Current bike is a Giant Trance 2017 size M which has a 435mm reach, 73.5 degree of STA and 610mm top tube length. Should I go for a large? Or a medium of FM1002?
I have 178cm and L feels nice to little short despite 55mm stem and 10mm offset seat post. With 44mm offset fork and 150mm travel the bike is surprisingly agile anywhere except uphill switchbacks. I don't dare longer stem in order not to cripple handling, which is very nice. I was and still tempted to try XL with short stem... But I cannot imagine myself on M. FM1001 has somewhat aggressive geo & long wheelbase even compared to contemporary trail bikes - if you are in, take L and short stem, if not, look elsewhere. Short offset fork probably helps agility and I don't feel any lack of stability at speed.
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Can be FM1001 fitted with some angled head set? I am tempted to try -1 degree, specifically 64,5 HA with 140mm fork travel, 44mm offset. Did anybody tried?
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I have received pictures of my frame, FM1001 XL in Slate Grey RAL 7015
Cannot wait to start building it up.
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Can be FM1001 fitted with some angled head set? I am tempted to try -1 degree, specifically 64,5 HA with 140mm fork travel, 44mm offset. Did anybody tried?
Seems like a simpler way to achieve that would be to go with a 150 fork.
I’m sure angle sets exist in 1.5”-1.5” but I’ve never seen one and would assume they’d put extra stress on the integrated bearing cups that would probably result in creaking, from my experience with a 1002.
(I had fairly bad creaking with the OEM headset after a short time — only resolved when I installed an FSA no.55R that has a more solid upper bearing reducer cone. It was partly due to the OEM headset letting water in and corroding easily but any extra stress/play in the upper bearing will probably have the same result eventually.)
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What's the correct damper hardware size for the 1001? I found 30x8 is that correct?
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What's the correct damper hardware size for the 1001? I found 30x8 is that correct?
That is correct
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I actually don't think there's a 1.5-1.5 integrated angleset available at all. The only integrated angleset I can think of is the 9.8 one and it's not going to do the 1.5 upper cup.
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My frames arrived today after only 13 days on the road, really like the paint job and the quality of the frame. Looks and feels very sturdy. My XL frame comes in at 3kg, incl. axles and shock placeholder. A bit heavier than I had hoped, but still fine.
Can't wait to build it, but first I'm off to work until Saturday. Also waiting for the rims to arrive and I still have to make a tire decision. Fork has to be rebuild to 140mm and MegNeg installed on the damper. But I also have a CFR707 waiting to be finished, I guess I'll do that one first.
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I actually don't think there's a 1.5-1.5 integrated angleset available at all. The only integrated angleset I can think of is the 9.8 one and it's not going to do the 1.5 upper cup.
Maybe custom 9point8 Slack-R setup using two bottom cups.
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Is there anybody with information about the bearing dimensions for the FM1001?
Thanks.
Greetings
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Hey everyone, wanted to re-visit the topic of bearings for this frame. I have been able to identify all the bearings used on this frame. Below are the bearings/quantity
Rocker arm pivot/main chain stay pivot:
F6902-EA - x4. This is a flanged bearing
Seat stay/Chain stay pivots:
F6901 - x8. This is a flanged bearing
Lower shock mount:
6801 - x2
As of right now Enduro carries the f6902-EA and the 6801. Currently they do not carry the F6901. The good news is I have exchanged some emails with Enduro, and it looks like they will be adding the F6901 to the catalog. No ETA but sounds like they will have the standard version and the MAX version.
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Does anyone have any of the pivot bolt dimensions? I managed to round out one of the bolts by over tightening it, its in place now so no real rush, but at some point I'm going to need to drill it out and replace it. I think it was the drive side Chainstay attachment bolt onto the main pivot.
I think an M6 countersunk bolt from memory, however I've no idea on the length?
Cheers
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M6-1.00 is what I used when I accidently broke the washer/cap thingy.
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Here is something if you want to think about the suspension a bit more:
https://insanityofgravity.blogspot.com/2023/02/18-suspension-setup-ausfuhrliches.html
Some german might be good to know as well(or google translate)! :D
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does anybody have measurements for max seatpost insert for size S
thanks
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My frames arrived today after only 13 days on the road, really like the paint job and the quality of the frame. Looks and feels very sturdy. My XL frame comes in at 3kg, incl. axles and shock placeholder. A bit heavier than I had hoped, but still fine.
How tall are you Helmat? I am 191cm, want to order but numbers look small to me.
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How tall are you Helmat? I am 191cm, want to order but numbers look small to me.
I'm 1.87cm with an 88cm inseam. I'm finished building but unfortunately I haven't been out on the bike yet due to a foot injury...
But from sitting on the bike at home it doesn't feel that small too me. My previous bike was a 2020 Trek Top Fuel XL that fit me really well and I'd say the 1001 feels about the same from a sizing perspective.
I'll upload some pics of my build soon.
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Tnx Helmat, please follow up with after ride size feeling report. I kindly ask other tall riders for sizing input, i would like to order FM1001 or FM 1002. I am 191 cm tall with 90 cm inseam.
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Does anyone have some numbers regarding shock pressures, does this frame need lower pressures? I've set up my suspension yesterday and my shock pressure kinda feels low, I'm running a RockShox Deluxe Ultimate with Megneg (said to increase required pressure by about 20%) and for 30% sag with my 85kg rider weight I put only 180psi into the shock. Does that sound right? Not that I made a mistake during the Megneg installation
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Hello, size suggestion for 1,68 cm and 77 cm inseam?
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Does anyone have some numbers regarding shock pressures, does this frame need lower pressures? I've set up my suspension yesterday and my shock pressure kinda feels low, I'm running a RockShox Deluxe Ultimate with Megneg (said to increase required pressure by about 20%) and for 30% sag with my 85kg rider weight I put only 180psi into the shock. Does that sound right? Not that I made a mistake during the Megneg installation
No, I run 185/190 psi on my Super Deluxe Ultimate. I will be adding the megneg (maybe this weekend). Make sure you didn't cover any of the hole in the new can with the orings or red bands. Curious to see what happens after the install.
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Just following up. Installed the megneg. With 1 red band it took 228psi to get back to 30% sag. Seems spot on for me
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Okay thanks, I might have to check of my MegNeg installation is all good ::)
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I got the detailed prints from Katie at Carbonda for both L and XL if anyone is curious to dig more into those (only saw the detail print for the S size earlier in the thread).
I'm 185cm tall with a 84cm inseam (without shoes on), 188cm/87cm (with shoes) and I'm trying to decide between L and XL. My hardtail that fits like a glove is a 2022 Honzo ST L, FC is 794, reach is 475, stack is 648. FM1001 in L seems really similar in these measurements according to the print, but still hesitant based on most here saying the FM1001 is ~1/2 size small. Any insights from y'all?
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I got the detailed prints from Katie at Carbonda for both L and XL if anyone is curious to dig more into those (only saw the detail print for the S size earlier in the thread).
I'm 185cm tall with a 84cm inseam (without shoes on), 188cm/87cm (with shoes) and I'm trying to decide between L and XL. My hardtail that fits like a glove is a 2022 Honzo ST L, FC is 794, reach is 475, stack is 648. FM1001 in L seems really similar in these measurements according to the print, but still hesitant based on most here saying the FM1001 is ~1/2 size small. Any insights from y'all?
I have an size L and I am 179/84cm. Size L would probably be a very nimble bike for you, but I don’t think XL would be bad either. Maybe XL would be more comfortable when sitting down? I run a 50mm stem, tried a 35mm but it was a bit short for my liking.
I don’t know if this helps, but I would probably go with XL for your size.
I was considering XL but chose L and I am happy I did, it fits me really good.
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I have an size L and I am 179/84cm. Size L would probably be a very nimble bike for you, but I don’t think XL would be bad either. Maybe XL would be more comfortable when sitting down? I run a 50mm stem, tried a 35mm but it was a bit short for my liking.
I don’t know if this helps, but I would probably go with XL for your size.
I was considering XL but chose L and I am happy I did, it fits me really good.
Thanks for the input, the more I look and compare to other bike geometries, the more I'm convinced XL with ~35mm stem is the way to go for me
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Thanks for the input, the more I look and compare to other bike geometries, the more I'm convinced XL with ~35mm stem is the way to go for me
If it helps: I'm 184 cm and have the XL with 35mm stem. It fits fine and I think the top tube length in L would be too short for me.
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179cm and L feels little short on effective top tube, running 55mm stem and 10mm seat post offset to prolong effective top tube. Handling, reach & wheel base is nice for me with L. Cannot imagine down-sizing to M, can imagine going XL with short stem, but it would move trail bike into mini-enduro probably.
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I have few first rides with DVO Topaz shock tuned by https://insanityofgravity.blogspot.com/2023/02/18-suspension-setup-ausfuhrliches.html
and subjectively if feels day & night compared to factory setup of the damper. 100% recommended for DVO/Suntour owners, new shimstack is described there, replicate spring update is may be not so easy.
It also confirmed thesis that FM1001 leverage ration is almost linear and needs a lot of progression to be added by the shock, so heads up for anyone running near-linear shocks. It makes shock selection for FM1001 little bit difficult / limited.
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179cm and L feels little short on effective top tube, running 55mm stem and 10mm seat post offset to prolong effective top tube. Handling, reach & wheel base is nice for me with L. Cannot imagine down-sizing to M, can imagine going XL with short stem, but it would move trail bike into mini-enduro probably.
Ha! I'm 180cm and I went with a medium running a 40mm stem. For me the fitment is perfect! All I can say is, I'm happy I didn't get a L or XL
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Finally first ride today, some minor adjustments to be made (brake lever angle, saddle position, one more volume spacer for the fork) but that's it. Bike feels great, size is perfect for me. Suspension also feels very good.
If anyone's interested in final specs, I can add those.
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Finally first ride today, some minor adjustments to be made (brake lever angle, saddle position, one more volume spacer for the fork) but that's it. Bike feels great, size is perfect for me. Suspension also feels very good.
If anyone's interested in final specs, I can add those.
Yes please, that looks great, well done! Specs and components if it’s possibile
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Yes please, that looks great, well done! Specs and components if it’s possibile
Sure, specs:
Frame: FM1001 XL, RAL7015 glossy
Wheelset: BTLOS 29i, Bitex Hubs
Tires: Specialized Eliminator Grid T7 29x2.3 front , Ground Control Grid T7 29x2.35 rear
Fork: Fox 34 Factory 2020 140mm, 44mm offset
Shock: RockShox Deluxe Ultimate 185x55 with MegNeg
Brakes: Shimano BR-M7120 203f/180r
Cassette: SRAM XG-1295 10-50
Crankset: SRAM GX Alloy, 30 tooth chainring
Derailleur: SRAM GX AXS with rocker paddle shifter
Chain: SRAM X01
Stem: Spank Split 50mm
Handlebar: OneUp 20mm rise, cut to 780mm
Dropper: OneUp 210mm
Saddle: Ergon SM Pro
I have done another longer ride and I couldn't be happier with the bike. Added some frame protection to the top tube and the seat tube to protect the paint a bit and changed the chainring to a 30 tooth (not the fault of the bike I'm just not in shape
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Can you please share link to the rear stay protector? Looks very profi... thanks.
Sure, specs:
Frame: FM1001 XL, RAL7015 glossy
Wheelset: BTLOS 29i, Bitex Hubs
Tires: Specialized Eliminator Grid T7 29x2.3 front , Ground Control Grid T7 29x2.35 rear
Fork: Fox 34 Factory 2020 140mm, 44mm offset
Shock: RockShox Deluxe Ultimate 185x55 with MegNeg
Brakes: Shimano BR-M7120 203f/180r
Cassette: SRAM XG-1295 10-50
Crankset: SRAM GX Alloy, 30 tooth chainring
Derailleur: SRAM GX AXS with rocker paddle shifter
Chain: SRAM X01
Stem: Spank Split 50mm
Handlebar: OneUp 20mm rise, cut to 780mm
Dropper: OneUp 210mm
Saddle: Ergon SM Pro
I have done another longer ride and I couldn't be happier with the bike. Added some frame protection to the top tube and the seat tube to protect the paint a bit and changed the chainring to a 30 tooth (not the fault of the bike I'm just not in shape
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Can you please share link to the rear stay protector? Looks very profi... thanks.
https://www.wiggle.com/p/nukeproof-mega-alloy-chain-stay-protector-290
That's the one. Fits almost perfectly, just two small adaptations have to be made at the front.
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I'm reading these run a little small. I'm 5'5"(165cm) with 28"(71cm) inseam. Looks like I might be between a small and Med. Suggestions?
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I'm reading these run a little small. I'm 5'5"(165cm) with 28"(71cm) inseam. Looks like I might be between a small and Med. Suggestions?
Personally I’d suggest a medium.
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Alright, FM1001 ordered in medium standard finish with extra components from Wing. Shipped to Pennsylvania, USA total was $1,071. I find it odd I had a remote ship fee being so close to New York City. I'll update once recieved.
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16 days for deliver to Pennsylvania US, not too bad. Very satisfied with the finish, nothing to complain about. Got a bunch of extra hardware. They sent a few too many hangers though. Very well packaged. Few emails back and fourth with Wing, she was very prompt.
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Great, have fun with your new bike! Really love mine, still fiddling a bit with suspension settings but on a good way to get that set up
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16 days for deliver to Pennsylvania US, not too bad. Very satisfied with the finish, nothing to complain about. Got a bunch of extra hardware. They sent a few too many hangers though. Very well packaged. Few emails back and fourth with Wing, she was very prompt.
I'll be purchasing used parts and Aliexpess parts for my build. Trying to keep it very low price but decent spec as possible. I recently purchased a new takoff '23 Fox Float X2 ($425usd) and used '23 Rockshox Lyrik Ultimate ($680usd). I wanted to see for myself how much the X2 doesn't fit with the frame. Maybe try to rig something up to get it work. If it fails I'll sell it and get a used Rockshox Super Deluxe Ultimate.
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I'll be purchasing used parts and Aliexpess parts for my build. Trying to keep it very low price but decent spec as possible. I recently purchased a new takoff '23 Fox Float X2 ($425usd) and used '23 Rockshox Lyrik Ultimate ($680usd). I wanted to see for myself how much the X2 doesn't fit with the frame. Maybe try to rig something up to get it work. If it fails I'll sell it and get a used Rockshox Super Deluxe Ultimate.
Well boys, Fox Float X2 fit perfectly! No obstructions, not even close. I’ll ride it for a while and see how I like it.
So far frame and shock come out to 3.25kg(7.165lbs) this X2 is beefy.
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If I had to guess, maybe the suggestion that an X2 wouldn’t fit came from a 1002 owner who had the air can tap the frame near the bottom of its longer stroke? The rocker arm tilts backward a fair bit in the last few millimeters on my 1002 which is probably responsible for that regressive dip (which I’ve never actually felt even on big jump landings) that the 1001 avoids by running 5mm less stroke.
I say this because now I’m wondering if I’ve ever actually seen anyone try an X2 on a 1001 before you.
I assume you’ve cycled the shock all the way to the bottom and it still clears okay…
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If I had to guess, maybe the suggestion that an X2 wouldn’t fit came from a 1002 owner who had the air can tap the frame near the bottom of its longer stroke? The rocker arm tilts backward a fair bit in the last few millimeters on my 1002 which is probably responsible for that regressive dip (which I’ve never actually felt even on big jump landings) that the 1001 avoids by running 5mm less stroke.
I say this because now I’m wondering if I’ve ever actually seen anyone try an X2 on a 1001 before you.
I assume you’ve cycled the shock all the way to the bottom and it still clears okay…
Yeah, prob ever so slight difference with the 1001. I tried to get full compression and full extension in the pics. A ton of room on a medium 1001. I also did verify with the serial the X2 is a 185x55
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Received FSA headset, fit perfect. FSA bearing is about 1g heavier and 1mm taller. Thx @FullCarbonAlchemist
Also receive my used Lyrik today.
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This was looking like the perfect upgrade from my current aluminium bike, but I am 195cm tall with long limbs - I would say an XL probably won't be big enough for me...
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This was looking like the perfect upgrade from my current aluminium bike, but I am 195cm tall with long limbs - I would say an XL probably won't be big enough for me...
You are pretty tall, XL would prob. fit well. Anyone else suggest otherwise?
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Anyone have a suggestion for a good fit downtube protector?
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Anyone have a suggestion for a good fit downtube protector?
I used this:
https://www.modulebike.com/Flex-Shield-Downtube-Protector-p/dp-18.htm
Use it to cover the underside of the bottom bracket and lower part of the downtube. The cut outs let to conform the contours of the frame just nicely. With the 1000+ miles on the bike it has yet to un-stick.
https://chinertown.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=3104.0;attach=8373;image
For other areas I just used 3M clear vinyl. Bought a 2inch roll and cut myself to fit.
https://www.amazon.com/Clear-Scotchgard-Paint-Protector-Vinyl/dp/B071K6TKPT/ref=sr_1_26_sspa?keywords=3m%2Bprotective%2Bfilm&qid=1690483085&sprefix=3m%2Bpro%2Caps%2C215&sr=8-26-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9tdGY&th=1
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Two small changes that I have made.
I've removed my Zefal downtube armor today because it didn't really stick at the edges and started to leave black marks on the paint. Replaced it with a Nukeproof Mega Alloy Downtube protector I got from wiggle, fits really well, upper part of downtube got some clear frame protection installed.
https://abload.de/img/20230909_15042756c78.jpg
Modelled and 3D printed a small flap for the main pivot gap between main and rear triangle. Had a small rock stuck in there and quite some mud on some rides that's now solved. If anyone wants to print that one as well I can provide the STL file.
https://abload.de/img/20230909_150446hmc8y.jpg
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I bought Enduro max bearings F6902 EA LLU to replace the original bearings, and they're not exactly the same. The flange is slightly thicker on the enduro bearings. The difference means I cannot get the rocker flush with the frame, there's a little gap even with the bearings completely seated.
Anyone had this problem and/or has any suggestions how to deal with it?
Thanks!
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Two small changes that I have made.
I've removed my Zefal downtube armor today because it didn't really stick at the edges and started to leave black marks on the paint. Replaced it with a Nukeproof Mega Alloy Downtube protector I got from wiggle, fits really well, upper part of downtube got some clear frame protection installed.
https://abload.de/img/20230909_15042756c78.jpg
Modelled and 3D printed a small flap for the main pivot gap between main and rear triangle. Had a small rock stuck in there and quite some mud on some rides that's now solved. If anyone wants to print that one as well I can provide the STL file.
https://abload.de/img/20230909_150446hmc8y.jpg
Thanks a lot for tip, Nukeproof Mega Alloy downtube protector fits really really well. As par chainstay protector Nukeproof Mega fits very good as well, just small cut. Alloy version fits much less. This kit from Nukeproof is kind of must have for FM1001....
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I bought Enduro max bearings F6902 EA LLU to replace the original bearings, and they're not exactly the same. The flange is slightly thicker on the enduro bearings. The difference means I cannot get the rocker flush with the frame, there's a little gap even with the bearings completely seated.
Anyone had this problem and/or has any suggestions how to deal with it?
Thanks!
I'm bummed to hear the bearings are not the same. I was planning to do a bearing swap this winter. Still can't find a high quality replacement for the F6901's. Did you?
How much of a gap are we talking about? .5mm on each side or a full 1mm or more per side? Filling the gap with some sort of spacer may be the best solution. I would be hesitant to modify the carbon.
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I'm bummed to hear the bearings are not the same. I was planning to do a bearing swap this winter. Still can't find a high quality replacement for the F6901's. Did you?
How much of a gap are we talking about? .5mm on each side or a full 1mm or more per side? Filling the gap with some sort of spacer may be the best solution. I would be hesitant to modify the carbon.
Me too, I thought people up-thread had used these bearings already without issue, but it seems the F6902 2RS and the F6902 LLU have slightly different flange thickness.
I would say there is about 1-1.5mm gap total (both sides). My current plan is to get some thicker washers (2.5mm) to replace the washers that sit between the rocker and the frame. Unfortunately they are not a standard size, the standard washer with 15mm inner diameter is 28mm outer diameter, which is too big.
I haven't ordered the F6901 bearings yet, but I did find some online shops in Europe that stocked them.
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Me too, I thought people up-thread had used these bearings already without issue, but it seems the F6902 2RS and the F6902 LLU have slightly different flange thickness.
I would say there is about 1-1.5mm gap total (both sides). My current plan is to get some thicker washers (2.5mm) to replace the washers that sit between the rocker and the frame. Unfortunately they are not a standard size, the standard washer with 15mm inner diameter is 28mm outer diameter, which is too big.
I haven't ordered the F6901 bearings yet, but I did find some online shops in Europe that stocked them.
To my knowledge no one has yet. I started looking into it as the lower bearings for the shock on my frame started to seize up. Turns out they are also a flanged bearing. I ended up just replacing them with a non-flanged bearing since what I bought and Enduro doesn't make a flanged version. It kinda sucks that everything bearing on this frame is a flanged version and doesn't appear to be easily sourced.
Look into the igus thrust washers. The one linked below could potentially fill the 1-1.5 gap.
https://www.igus.com/product/125?artNr=GTM-1519-008
What about the other two for the lower pivot. Did you replace those as well and any issues?
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Guess I’m glad that I used the FM1002 very lightly this year in favor of my newer FM1003 and haven’t gotten around to replacing the bearings yet…it needs to be done to help me eliminate possible causes of multi-source creaking I’ve experienced on that bike, but the issues with sourcing exact fit replacement parts aren’t something I would expect any of my local shops to handle very well.
I’ll wait to see if 1001/1002 owners come up with a verified solution before trying to replace bearings…maybe just have a local mechanic clean and grease the existing ones for now, or do it myself over the winter.
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It's likely we will not be able to use Enduro bearings on the 1001/1002 and we'll either have to source a more generic bearing or get replacements from Carbonda.
Since the Enduro F6902 EA LLU has a thinker flange I assume this will not work for the lower pivot either. It sounds like it will for the rocker arm but there is a gap. Not sure if that will be a bad thing. Enduro still doesn't carry a F6901 or a F6801 so those still have to be sourced elsewhere.
I was able to find these bearings below. Not sure if they are the exact bearing that Carbonda uses but they appear to be to correct size. The flange thickness is still unknown on these. I'm also having creaking issues that I'm trying to eliminate. At that point where it might time to start pulling bearings. Since the bearings below are fairly cheap, I might just buy a set and see what happens. Won't be for a couple months though. Still have plenty of riding left before the rain comes in.
F6902
https://www.123bearing.com/bearing-housing/deep-groove-bearing/single-row/f6902-2rs#container-tech-schema
F6901
https://www.123bearing.com/bearing-housing/deep-groove-bearing/single-row/f6901-2rs
F6801
https://www.123bearing.com/bearing-housing/deep-groove-bearing/single-row/f6801-2rs#container-tech-schema
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I bought some 0.3 mm "tunning washers" in a local shop, and using 2 on each side I can reassemble the rocker without any play. They are made of steel though and I expect them to rust quickly, so longer term I would like to get some of those washers bossman suggested (or something else made of stainless steel).
I didn't change the bottom bearings yet but I expect these won't fit, the extra 1.2 mm will be too wide for the chainstay part.
I think for the other bearings I will buy generic ones, they will need more frequent changing but they are also much cheaper and (I hope) will fit correctly.
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Sorry another sizing question... I've been reading thought this thread and it seems apparent these size about a 1/2 size smaller. I am very green at deciphering geometry so I know not what I say but people usually give their height and inseam when looking for recommendations, wouldn't hight-inseam be a more appropriate metric? I'm 182cm/87cm FWIW. I'm fairly new to MTB and currently ride a OG Evkin CF-052 (L) wich has a 623mm effective top tube length, with a 50mm stem and find it a neutral length. It seems by that the XL would be a great fit, however, the reach on the FM1001 is significantly longer so not sure what to think. I'm a sit'n'spin style climber and will likely spend more time in the saddle on a full sus bike if this influences anything.
Thanks for any input!
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Try this to compare geometry of Bikes. You will find OG Evkin and Carbonda
https://bike-stats.de/
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Try this to compare geometry of Bikes. You will find OG Evkin and Carbonda
https://bike-stats.de/
Do not buy the OG Evkin. the frame is crap (ruined BB shell and loose bottle cage mounts which have ruined the paint around them). If you ask for warranty they will play with you for 2 months and then block you. They are liars and crooks.
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If someone in GER is looking for this frame, I´ve one new frame in size L over.
Just send me a message
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Looking at the geo, they steepened the seat tube (SC) without lengthening the top tube (O) so the riding position should be pretty cramped. 78 degrees for a 135mm bike is too steep.
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Hi all!
I am about to build a 1001 for my wife, in size M (she is 5'7"). Her seat height is about 720mm. The size M has a 410mm seat tube, so 310mm from top of seat tube to saddle top.
By my calculations, a 180mm OneUp dropper should fit. (at least 260mm to saddle rails from collar, 230mm max insertion).
Does that match up with people's experience?
Thanks
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@freda - what colors are those, if you don't mind? Lovely paint you chose!
So i have now over half a year on this frame and I am pleased so far.
It was meant for trail riding and for this purpose it works well. Actually it is better on the downhills then I expected, but that can also be because I run it mullet so it is slacker and lower. At some point I will switch to 29” in the back because I would like the steeper seattube. Now I run the saddle slammed forward. I really see no negatives with steep seattube.
People have already pointed out the hassle to run the cables in the frame. I also noticed running them front to back seems to work best. Another thing is the rubber grommets, they are very tight and with both the brake and gear cable in the same grommet I never got it seated properly so now I have lost it.
The bolts need tightening regularly, but that is normal. The upper shock bolt is just crap quality, need to replace that one soon.
The seatstays gather water, when riding in the wet or washing the bike, there is always water in there. Turning the bike upside down empties it.
Sizing for me is good, L size and I am 179cm with 84cm inseam. Running 50mm stem, I tried a 35mm stem and that was nice going down but felt cramped while seated. I think I could run the XL but not the M, depends of course on the kind of riding one is doing.
Overall a good frame with modern geometry and suspension that works well.
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1300 miles. Feels rough to turn. The other side is fine. Need a solution.
Has anyone ordered replacement bearings from Carbonda?
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1300 miles. Feels rough to turn. The other side is fine. Need a solution.
Has anyone ordered replacement bearings from Carbonda?
I have less miles on my 1002 but I bet it looks even worse than that. I’ve considered having my LBS clean and re-grease until I can find the right replacement bearings to do the whole linkage all at once (or at least the ones that actually need it, likely the rocker pivot and main pivot), but I suspect the rust on the flanges might be bad enough to make that pointless.
I think we need to start a dedicated thread for 1001/1002 owners to focus on this issue since we have the exact same bearings and linkage.
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I’d be willing to order from Carbonda if that’s really the only choice but I think what someone needs to do is just ask them for the exact specs/supplier(s) so we can order our own. I would’ve done it already but life has been intense lately and I have so many more urgent things on my plate.
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I’ve got a full extra set of bearing from Carbonda. I’ll post the pics and measurements after Christmas.
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Alright, here are the measurements.
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Blue
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Black Large
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Black Medium
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Alright, here are the measurements.
Thanks jpajoe7 for the info on the bearings. I have sent an email to Carbonda to see about ordering the same kit. Patiently waiting for them to get back to me.
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I talked to Wing and got my set delivered in a few weeks.
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I exchanged emails with Wing last night and was able to get a parts kit ordered. The kit was $60. FedEx shipping to California was $35 and a $4 PayPal fee for a total of $99
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I found the bearing numbers on the FM1002 thread. I think the bearings are:
F6901
F6902
F6801
I bought mine from https://www.airevelobearings.com/product/f6901-2rs-max-e/
Yet to fit them and confirm, so thanks for the photos. Gives me confidence that I bought the right bearings!
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I think what I’ll do is order a Carbonda kit for the spare hardware and any bearings that I can’t get to fit (the ones with the wrong flange thickness) from Enduro will come from the Carbonda kit instead.
I’ll probably order a spare kit for the 1003 from them too while I’m at it, even though I think that newer build just needs a clean/grease…and I’ll probably use Enduro Max bearings on that one too when I get to that point, if I can figure out the specs. I don’t think the 1003 uses any flanged bearings like the 1001/1002 do on the linkage connections.
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Good to know we can get the full kits from carbonda.
Is the $60 + shipping the cost for the kit with all bearings plus all hardware has shown above by japjoe7 ?
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Good to know we can get the full kits from carbonda.
Is the $60 + shipping the cost for the kit with all bearings plus all hardware has shown above by japjoe7 ?
Yes, that’s correct.
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Good to know we can get the full kits from carbonda.
Is the $60 + shipping the cost for the kit with all bearings plus all hardware has shown above by japjoe7 ?
When I sent the initial email I included the two pictures from japjoe7 showing the full kit so they knew what I was requesting.
While it will be nice to have a complete set of extra hardware for this frame I would still like to find another source for the bearings. Prior to finding out about this parts kit I was going to pull the trigger on a full set from 123bearning as they seem to have the correct bearings. I think now I will just order one of each type so I can compare them to the set from Carbonda.
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What's the opinion on 140mm vs 150mm fork on this frame? I'm thinking about getting a new fork and I'm not sure which route to go? Fox 34/Pike for 140mm or 36/Lyrik for 150mm.
How is your experience with longer forks on this bike?
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When I sent the initial email I included the two pictures from japjoe7 showing the full kit so they knew what I was requesting.
While it will be nice to have a complete set of extra hardware for this frame I would still like to find another source for the bearings. Prior to finding out about this parts kit I was going to pull the trigger on a full set from 123bearning as they seem to have the correct bearings. I think now I will just order one of each type so I can compare them to the set from Carbonda.
Was thinking of this too, but the F6902 (at least) seems to have the wrong dimensions. The Enduro-branded one should be the same I got (the flange is too thick), and the generic-branded one doesn't seem to have the longer inner race at all.
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I noticed that as well however it highly likely it will still work for the lower pivot. It obviously wont work for the rocker. Curious if there is anyway to get the Enduro properly fit there...
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What's the opinion on 140mm vs 150mm fork on this frame? I'm thinking about getting a new fork and I'm not sure which route to go? Fox 34/Pike for 140mm or 36/Lyrik for 150mm.
How is your experience with longer forks on this bike?
Can’t go wrong with either size. Spec is 140 but plenty of people including myself are running 150. 10mm isn’t a ton of difference.
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I am starting the build of a FM1001 for my wife. The painted frame has just arrived :-).
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I managed to strip the head of one of the hex bolts in the lower main pivot. I've managed to drill the bolt out and remove the bearing cover so I should be able to knock the axle out, however it is absolutely stuck....
I suspect there is corrosion between the pivot axle and the inner bearing race.
Any tips on how to remove??
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I managed to strip the head of one of the hex bolts in the lower main pivot. I've managed to drill the bolt out and remove the bearing cover so I should be able to knock the axle out, however it is absolutely stuck....
I suspect there is corrosion between the pivot axle and the inner bearing race.
Any tips on how to remove??
Mine was also quite stuck, but no corrosion. I managed to get it out by turning it (with the hex key) while pushing it out from the other side.
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Took about 4 weeks but my hardware kit arrived today. Been waiting for this to arrive so I can do a full disassembly of the bike and do some maintenance. If all goes according to plan I will start this next weekend
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I managed to strip the head of one of the hex bolts in the lower main pivot. I've managed to drill the bolt out and remove the bearing cover so I should be able to knock the axle out, however it is absolutely stuck....
I suspect there is corrosion between the pivot axle and the inner bearing race.
Any tips on how to remove??
I managed to get the axle out, so that's a relief! Worth remembering to disassemble periodically and free up/regrease as I don't think I'd want to do that again!
Full bearing and hardware kit coming from China to replace the axle I, so now I've got lots of spares.
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Was thinking of this too, but the F6902 (at least) seems to have the wrong dimensions. The Enduro-branded one should be the same I got (the flange is too thick), and the generic-branded one doesn't seem to have the longer inner race at all.
What was the model of the Enduro bearing? I have Enduro F6902 max bearings installed in the top link and it seemed to go together fine, the issue I have is that they seem a little tight on the main lower frame pivot, I'd assumed that there might be some debris/paint in the recess so the bearings won't completely fit in.
I have Enduro F6902-LLU-MAX-EA, but there are other variants
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What was the model of the Enduro bearing? I have Enduro F6902 max bearings installed in the top link and it seemed to go together fine, the issue I have is that they seem a little tight on the main lower frame pivot, I'd assumed that there might be some debris/paint in the recess so the bearings won't completely fit in.
I have Enduro F6902-LLU-MAX-EA, but there are other variants
I bought the same bearings, and the flange was too thick. It did go in the top link fine, but once I assembled it to the frame there was a gap, so the rocker would move side to side. Have you assembled it back together with the frame, and does it fit tight?
I did not try the lower pivot, but because the flange is thicker I expect it won't go in completely (as you seem to have found).
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I bought Enduro max bearings F6902 EA LLU to replace the original bearings, and they're not exactly the same. The flange is slightly thicker on the enduro bearings. The difference means I cannot get the rocker flush with the frame, there's a little gap even with the bearings completely seated.
Anyone had this problem and/or has any suggestions how to deal with it?
Thanks!
Neb, see the picture on this comment, it shows the carbon and the enduro bearings side by side.
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I bought the same bearings, and the flange was too thick. It did go in the top link fine, but once I assembled it to the frame there was a gap, so the rocker would move side to side. Have you assembled it back together with the frame, and does it fit tight?
I did not try the lower pivot, but because the flange is thicker I expect it won't go in completely (as you seem to have found).
The top link is back on the bike and the fit is fine, the original spacers made the gap up between the bearings in the link and the front triangle.
The bottom bearings made the chainstay really tight to remove (I had to tap it out with a mallet. If I greased them, I think I'd be able to tap the chainstay back into place.
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This is the top rocker link installed with the Enduro F6902 bearings. No play or gap between the bearings and the frame.
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I have the full kit coming, so I'll hold off with the Enduro bearings. I will say that I wasn't impressed with the grease in the original bearings,it didn't seem too sticky or waterproof
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Good news that you managed with the lower bearings. Not sure why the difference on the rocker bearings, did you notice the flange on the enduro bearings being thicker at all? Were they like the pic I uploaded?
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Good news that you managed with the lower bearings. Not sure why the difference on the rocker bearings, did you notice the flange on the enduro bearings being thicker at all? Were they like the pic I uploaded?
I've got the bearings in the rocker in fine, but the lower bearings in the main pivot don't quite go in far enough to press against the internal tube the axle runs through, so I'm thinking the Enduro bearings are the same as yours and 0.5mm too thick.
I'll compare with the new bearings when they arrive this week. I'm tempted to shave 0.5mm off the spacers on the lower pivot so that can use Enduro bearings. But since the original bearings arrive this week I'll use them this time. I'll clean out the grease and use a heavy waterproof grease before fitting.
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I'll clean out the grease and use a heavy waterproof grease before fitting.
I degrease all the bearings from my kit and put in a high quality grease. Not sure if it was worth the effort since these are just cheap generic bearings but we shall see.
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I degrease all the bearings from my kit and put in a high quality grease. Not sure if it was worth the effort since these are just cheap generic bearings but we shall see.
On first look the grease didn't look great, but it's really tenacious stuff! The fill wasn't too bad for OEM bearings either. One thing I did notice was how the factory grease wasn't well spread through the bearing, so definitely worth spinning each bearing a few times before installing in the frame or there will be bearings not covered by grease.
Old vs new
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Has anybody tried 3d- printing a downtube protector? Sounds like a fun way to get something that fits well.
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Another hint for everyone unhappy with the shock bolt. I really disliked the silver screws so I got myself a Titanium axle that came with black bolts but they were too small in diameter and I couldn't find ones that fit better.
I have now ordered the shock bolt kit for a YT Capra and while the axle itself is too long it comes with 2 bolts that can be used with the titanium axle. These bolts perfectly fit the openings on the 1001 rocker link.
Can be ordered here:
https://www.yt-industries.com/products/parts/capra/mk2-2018-2021/215/shock-bolt-set-capra-mk2/
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@helmat: where did you find a titanium axle? I have been hunting around on aliexpress and webshops, but can only find 33mm long axles.
On a side note: has anyone tried the 40mm long steel axles available on aliexpress? they are very cheap, wondering if they are any better than the stock ones.
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You can get a titanium 8x40 “Transition” shock bolt that fits from BetterBolts. I think they normally offer it as part of a kit for a specific model of Transition but you can custom order it separately from them by email.
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I had to order the full hardware kit from carbonda and I noticed that the bolt is now much better than the original bolt that came with the bike. In addition the headset now seems to fit properly and doesn't need spacers underneath the top cap.
Seems that some of the hardware shortfalls have now been addressed
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Has anyone had problems with a undersized shock mounting interface? I bought for 8x30mm, but the measured size is closer to 29mm. I guess I'll have to file down the spacers...
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Another addition to the FM1001 builds: a size M for my wife, with XT groupset, Cane Creek Helm fork, OneUp dropper, hand built wheels with Carbonbeam rims. 13.7kg ready to ride with heavy tires and a pretty heavy fork - not super light. Her birthday is in 2 weeks, I hope she will like the surprise :-D.
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Some more review https://enduro-mtb.com/en/detrail-stig-135-test/
I agree with the negative points of the review, personally I increased fork to 150 and have tons for 3d printed spacers and custom shim stack to boost compression damping.... (both providing more "support" for the rear).
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And this interesting https://www.detrailbikes.com/berg-155/
Looks like they put different rocker (Alu instead of carbon?) to squeeze more travel and increase progressivity of our topic. This is exactly what I want, may be not up to 155. Interesting approach instead of using FM1002...
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Interesting, thanks for sharing.
Isn't the support of the suspension a lot related to the shock tune? If I recall correctly, the FM1001 doesn't have an unusual leverage curve?
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As per my info, FM1001 has flat and quite "low" leverage curve. It needs air shock with a lot of progressivity (small positive chamber) and IMHO and above average low speed compression damping. Guys at Detrail are clearly aware -> they put small chamber & highly damped Ohlins TTX1 on their most expensive build. Also, for their "Berg" model they designed & created new rocker link and market its 30% progressivity (clearly a design objective to remedy problem of zero progressivity of the origianal).
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Thanks, make a lot of sense.
Sidebar: I enjoy enduro-mtb as a mag - nice pictures, etc. But boy, do they over-focus on little details and cut short the discussion on more substantive topics. Like that they find the handlebar too wide (cut it down, that's personal preference), or their always recurring point on casings...
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Interesting, thanks for sharing.
Isn't the support of the suspension a lot related to the shock tune? If I recall correctly, the FM1001 doesn't have an unusual leverage curve?
I found the megneg on the rockshox deluxe made a huge difference. It naturally makes the shock more progressive and gives much more mid stroke support. Surprised that they didn't include this as stock on these bikes
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I found the megneg on the rockshox deluxe made a huge difference. It naturally makes the shock more progressive and gives much more mid stroke support. Surprised that they didn't include this as stock on these bikes
The 2023+ Deluxe and Super Deluxe shocks don't use the old Megneg air can. You now have the choice of a linear or a progressive air can and the Detrail uses the progressive one.
I now got myself a new Super Deluxe with the progressive air can and Hydraulic Bottom Out, mainly because I wanted the separate HSC and LSC adjustments also thinking about getting it custom tuned for the 1001. I'll write something about it when I got some rides on it.
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By luck, I seem to have hit it well then with the R232 shock from DT Swiss, which they say has a progressive curve.
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By luck, I seem to have hit it well then with the R232 shock from DT Swiss, which they say has a progressive curve.
But damper on R232 is probably too simple for this kind of bike, no?
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The 2023+ Deluxe and Super Deluxe shocks don't use the old Megneg air can. You now have the choice of a linear or a progressive air can and the Detrail uses the progressive one.
I now got myself a new Super Deluxe with the progressive air can and Hydraulic Bottom Out, mainly because I wanted the separate HSC and LSC adjustments also thinking about getting it custom tuned for the 1001. I'll write something about it when I got some rides on it.
Waiting for you feedback on this.
I saw small air can as aftermarket component, but never a Super Deluxe with small can out-of-the box. However, this is on of most promising shock without the need to modify it.
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But damper on R232 is probably too simple for this kind of bike, no?
Nor sure, why? My wife is 57kg ang not super aggressive.
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Waiting for you feedback on this.
I saw small air can as aftermarket component, but never a Super Deluxe with small can out-of-the box. However, this is on of most promising shock without the need to modify it.
I don't think it's available to buy with the progressive air can. You have to purchase the shock with the linear air can and buy the progressive air can and install it yourself (very easy btw)
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Hi everyone! I have a request that is different from the last topic you were talking about.
I’m planning to buy this frame and I’d like to paint it myself.
So I have few questions for you all.
I read in another thread that Carbonda gives you two options for my case:
- a raw frame that you have to sand it and patch it yourself
- a frame that has been sanded, patched and painted with a black matte paint, that I would have to sand it again to be painted by me.
So what does it mean that you have to patch it? You don’t usually patch a broken frame?
What is the best less work/better result option between these two in your opinion?
Thank you very much!!
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Hi everyone! I have a request that is different from the last topic you were talking about.
I’m planning to buy this frame and I’d like to paint it myself.
So I have few questions for you all.
I read in another thread that Carbonda gives you two options for my case:
- a raw frame that you have to sand it and patch it yourself
- a frame that has been sanded, patched and painted with a black matte paint, that I would have to sand it again to be painted by me.
So what does it mean that you have to patch it? You don’t usually patch a broken frame?
What is the best less work/better result option between these two in your opinion?
Thank you very much!!
Get the primed one not the raw frame. Primed and patched just means they smoothed out the surface to prep for paint. Raw would mean you need to smooth out and prime the surface yourself.
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Get the primed one not the raw frame. Primed and patched just means they smoothed out the surface to prep for paint. Raw would mean you need to smooth out and prime the surface yourself.
You can probably skip primer with the black frame, so even if that frame would be more expensive you would save on cans of paint (and 2K paint in cans is not cheap). You would only need to roughen the paint and you can apply basecoat.
Depending on what your goal is with painting it yourself, you might want to reconsider and let them do it. Prices for painting in china are unbeatable. If you count the price of 2K paint cans you will not be far from that amount.
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+1 on the suggestion to have it painted by Carbonda. I have had good experience with it. The color scheme I had them do wasn't super simple, and cost $245 ($155 painting, $90 for decals). If you want to see the design, it's further up the thread
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Thank you!!