FM1002 / FM1166 - 150mm frame

[FullCarbonAlchemist]

This is how my FRAMED Piedmont/Flybike build ended up.   (If need to be ridden now and tuned.) - But it is winter....

What did you use to cover the Framed logo? It blends well.

[Tijoe]

What did you use to cover the Framed logo? It blends well.

https://www.amazon.com/VViViD-Gloss-Black-Adhesive-Release/dp/B083QSL6FQ/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?hvadid=631555815337&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9021400&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=9324566939558593874&hvtargid=kwd-30699347335&hydadcr=7056_13293877&keywords=gloss%2Bblack%2Bvinyl%2Bwrap&qid=1700849264&sr=8-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&th=1

[impmonkey]

Here is my final build:
"Framed" Frame
160 Lyric
Fox DPX2
Elite Wheels "Enduro" 40mm external 30mm internal
SRAM AXS Drivetrain. Mic of GX, XX1, and X1 Carbon Cranks
Ali-x dropper 150mm
RF stem
Brand-X Carbon Bars
Ali-x Carbon Saddle

30lbs 1oz without pedals.
Can't wait to put it through it's paces, but winter.....

[FullCarbonAlchemist]

https://www.amazon.com/VViViD-Gloss-Black-Adhesive-Release/dp/B083QSL6FQ/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?hvadid=631555815337&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9021400&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=9324566939558593874&hvtargid=kwd-30699347335&hydadcr=7056_13293877&keywords=gloss%2Bblack%2Bvinyl%2Bwrap&qid=1700849264&sr=8-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&th=1

Thanks! I ordered a roll for my Framed Alaskan Carbon fat bike…it’s otherwise black with red accents and I think it’ll look better without the big silver logo of a defunct company.

[FullCarbonAlchemist]

Here is my final build:
"Framed" Frame
160 Lyric
Fox DPX2
Elite Wheels "Enduro" 40mm external 30mm internal
SRAM AXS Drivetrain. Mic of GX, XX1, and X1 Carbon Cranks
Ali-x dropper 150mm
RF stem
Brand-X Carbon Bars
Ali-x Carbon Saddle

30lbs 1oz without pedals.
Can't wait to put it through it's paces, but winter.....

Excellent build! I see you opted not to go with the X2 — was there any particular reason(s) for that?

[Crankydad]

Excellent build! I see you opted not to go with the X2 — was there any particular reason(s) for that?

Hi everyone,

I'm working on building up my Carbonda FM1002. I'm having trouble doing the internal routing for rear shifter cable and rear brake cable. I'm actually working on the rear shifter cable first. It's really frustrating. I'm using a magnet internal routing kit. I've tried from the front to back of frame, and also from the back to front of frame. I've had a little success going from back to front of frame. I was able to get the cable housing from rear triangle then to the front triangle. At the front triangle, it just gets stuck just about 3 inches in from the bottom bracket area and I have a long way to go up the downtube to the cable port.

Those 2 rubber grommets cable ports between the rear triangle and front triangle for the cables are really pissing me off.

I read some other comments on this thread, I know there was suggesting to remove the rear triangle. I could definitely see that as an option. But it looks like to remove the rear triangle, the bearing covers require special tools? I see hex wrench covers, I see some torq wrench, and there's one that lt looks like it's just blank.

I need help. Please share advice thank you!

[impmonkey]

Excellent build! I see you opted not to go with the X2 — was there any particular reason(s) for that?

Got this shock as a new take off for 100.
Being a lighter rider I have never felt the need for more, but will see how this handles.

[Tijoe]

Those 2 rubber grommets cable ports between the rear triangle and front triangle for the cables are really pissing me off.

I read some other comments on this thread, I know there was suggesting to remove the rear triangle. I could definitely see that as an option. But it looks like to remove the rear triangle, the bearing covers require special tools? I see hex wrench covers, I see some torq wrench, and there's one that lt looks like it's just blank.

I removed the bottom bolt assembly holding the the lower rear triangle to the back of the frame.  It was the only way I could figure out how to run housing through  the triangle, grommets and bottom bracket area.

[Crankydad]

I removed the bottom bolt assembly holding the the lower rear triangle to the back of the frame.  It was the only way I could figure out how to run housing through  the triangle, grommets and bottom bracket area.

Oo I will try that! Thank you. Will try that today. Thank for your response and helping me out. I really appreciate it.

Crankydad

[FullCarbonAlchemist]

Those grommets are a real PITA. I tried repeatedly to get them seated right (came out of place during cable install) and eventually gave up trying. Even had a local shop give it a go and no dice.

Ended up just leaving them imperfectly seated and it’s never been a problem.

[Crankydad]

Those grommets are a real PITA. I tried repeatedly to get them seated right (came out of place during cable install) and eventually gave up trying. Even had a local shop give it a go and no dice.

Ended up just leaving them imperfectly seated and it’s never been a problem.

Ah that's good to know. If grommets don't sit, might just leave it as is like you did. Very bad placement for internal routing holes from front triangle to rear triangle.

I think I'll try what Tijoe recommended see if possible to remove bottom bolts from rear triangle and unhinge it from there and hopefully have more room to work with routing cables.

Thanks for your reply and suggestions.

Crankydad

[Crankydad]

Ah that's good to know. If grommets don't sit, might just leave it as is like you did. Very bad placement for internal routing holes from front triangle to rear triangle.

I think I'll try what Tijoe recommended see if possible to remove bottom bolts from rear triangle and unhinge it from there and hopefully have more room to work with routing cables.

Thanks for your reply and suggestions.

Crankydad

I was able to remove the rear triangle lower hinge bolt to front lower front triangle! It took a 6mm hex wrench on one side, and also a 5mm hex wrench (ball end of 5mm hex wrench) for the other side to hold one screw steady while turning the 6mm hex wrench to unfasten it. Photo of success below! Thank you Tijoe and FullCarbon for help.



-Crankydad

[Tijoe]

This thread has slowed down!  Anyone riding their FM1001 or FM1166 bikes?  I've have about 50 miles on mine tooling around while trying to avoid icy snow. I am looking forward to taking it out on some more challenging rides when spring arrives.

[casual_build]

This thread has slowed down!  Anyone riding their FM1001 or FM1166 bikes?  I've have about 50 miles on mine tooling around while trying to avoid icy snow. I am looking forward to taking it out on some more challenging rides when spring arrives.

I am loving mine still, the slack head angle has saved me from going over the handlebars many times now. Love taking it down everything from chunky tech to mellow XC riding.

[bossman302]

Still have mine. It's been my one and only bike for the last two years. It's been through the ringer lol. According to my Strava I put over 1200 miles on it. This past winter I went through and replaced all the bearings. Out of the 14 bearings (I think that's how many there are) 4 were bad. Other than that, haven't had any issues. I just got an ebike last week so I will be splitting my time between both bikes.