Author Topic: Velobuild VB-R-168 Frame  (Read 265708 times)

clomdom

Re: Velobuild VB-R-168 Frame
« Reply #1650 on: August 25, 2023, 02:57:26 AM »
I was now finally able to assemble my bike.

For all of you please remember to unscrew the mounts where the Thru-Axles are mounted and screw them back in with threadlocker.

On my second ride, the rear bracket fell out at 45 km / h because the screw has loosened. The back wheel began to vibrate as hell but i was able to recover the bike without a crash.


Serge_K

Re: Velobuild VB-R-168 Frame
« Reply #1651 on: August 25, 2023, 11:01:04 AM »
For all of you please remember to unscrew the mounts where the Thru-Axles are mounted and screw them back in with threadlocker.

On my second ride, the rear bracket fell out at 45 km / h because the screw has loosened. The back wheel began to vibrate as hell but i was able to recover the bike without a crash.

You mean putting threadlocker on the tiny little screw that's off center the thru axle? if so, it is a must indeed. There have been reports of people losing that screw.
When i see a thread, i usually wonder: lithium or loctite? I like my girls wet and my threads lubricated.

Glad you didnt die!
Fast on the flat. And nowhere else.

easycon69

Re: Velobuild VB-R-168 Frame
« Reply #1652 on: September 07, 2023, 09:57:15 AM »
Hi guys,

I'd like to know if someone is using a saddle with full carbon rails: in this case what kind of seatpost clamp are you using?

The standard one with the VB-R-168 seatpost is not designed to be used with full carbon rails.

Thanks, Luca

Honda118

Re: Velobuild VB-R-168 Frame
« Reply #1653 on: September 07, 2023, 10:36:45 AM »
Anyone know where you can get a zero offset seat post for the VB-168?

Eddy_Twerckx

Re: Velobuild VB-R-168 Frame
« Reply #1654 on: September 07, 2023, 01:24:07 PM »
Hi guys,

I'd like to know if someone is using a saddle with full carbon rails: in this case what kind of seatpost clamp are you using?

The standard one with the VB-R-168 seatpost is not designed to be used with full carbon rails.

Thanks, Luca

The standard seatpost is fine with carbon rails. What makes you think it isn’t?

Eddy_Twerckx

Re: Velobuild VB-R-168 Frame
« Reply #1655 on: September 07, 2023, 01:25:05 PM »
Anyone know where you can get a zero offset seat post for the VB-168?

Not available. I talked to velobuild and they have no plans for zero offset unfortunately. And as far as I know there are no other seatposts that fit.

Zoc

Re: Velobuild VB-R-168 Frame
« Reply #1656 on: September 08, 2023, 03:33:59 AM »
Has anybody tried to fix the spacers with glue to one big spacer to reduce noises?

joegal

Re: Velobuild VB-R-168 Frame
« Reply #1657 on: September 15, 2023, 08:02:09 AM »
Hey guys, I finished my build last week. Wanted to share my experience with you and say thanks for all the insights!

I went with a 168 frameset, custom painted in size 54. The ordering process was fine, Chris was responsive and answered all/most of my questions. Settling on the color for the paintjob was not straightforward however, as I wanted a special color for which I had a pantone code (metallic color as per pantone code). He always said that they can do the color, but “not metallic” which was quite confusing since the color code was referring to a metallic color.
So after a bit of back and forth, we decided to try a candy-blue paintjob (transparent blue over metallic silver base). After a week, he sent pictures of the painted frame and said that they will paint another one as it wasn’t metallic enough (without even asking me if I was happy with the paintjob). So another week later, I had two “versions” of the paintjob to choose from, and I chose the second one.
The paintjob turned out way better than expected, they did a really good job!

I received the frame via DHL to my door (Germany), with XDB shipping and no additional duties within 10 days after it got shipped.

Frame quality was good. The inside of the fork had a few loose glassfiber-bits inside, maybe the reaming wasn’t perfectly done. I removed most of them, but the steerer tube was a bit to tight for the Deda 70 compression plug, so I sanded down the lower part of the compression plug a tiny bit.

As for the compression ring, I went with the SL8 one that I got from Specialized for 5€. As the SL8 uses a Headset Bearing with an ID that is 0.5mm larger than the VB, I had to modify the compression ring by sanding (no issue since its made from plastic).
To ensure enough clearance between the frame and the lowest headset spacer, I had to use 5 FSA microspacers that I cut to allow for internal cable routing. I also bent the lowest microspacer to prevent the sharp edges of the cut spacers from damaging the brake hoses. (as seen in the pictures)
Headset is free of any play.
I used the separate bar/stem combo, but 3D-printed a topcap that allows to run spacers above the stem to validate the position before cutting the steerer (too) short.
Routing the brake hoses (no shifter cables, as I run semi-wireless Di2) trough the bars was tough and required some sanding to remove the sharp edges on the exit holes in the handlebar. (I have tons of respect to you guys who manage to route 4 cables trough those handlebars, lol. Seems impossible from my perspective)

Building the bike was straightforward. BB was properly sized (a tiny bit undersized, but the Token Ninja BB pressed/threaded in fine).

As for the seatpost, I originally planned to replace the aluminium hardware with carbon parts from an old Elita One seatpost. However, they did not fit (and were only marginally lighter anyways). Has anyone found good replacement hardware to shave a few grams of that seatpost?
However, I had no issue with a slipping seatpost (used carbon paste) so far.

Regarding the weights:
•   Frame (without any hardware, Size 54, painted in “candy blue”): 1025g (photo shows frame with hardware and axle)
•   FD Hanger with screws: 15g
•   RD Hanger with screws: 17g
•   Uncut Fork incl. separate crown race: 428g (cut to about 402g, with a few cm left to be cut)
•   Stem 100mm (without Topcap): 193g
•   Handlebar 400mm: 270 g (quite a bit heavier than expected)
•   Headset spacers (all, without c-ring):77g
•   SL8 C-Ring: 5g
•   Seatpost: 240g
•   Seatpost grommet: 2,4g
•   Seatpost wedge: 24g
•   Front Axle: 37g
•   Rear Axle: 45g
•   Headset bearings: 62g

The whole build with complete Ultegra Di2 R8100 came out at 7,78 kg without pedals or 8,19kg with Pedals, Bottle cages, computer mount.
Once I dialed in my fit (coming from an endurance frame that was already slammed, I will slowly lower my position), I will probably shave a few hundred gramms by switching to a lighter cockpit, saddle… Also thinking about a lighter wheelset (currently at 1635g for the pair).

Complete price was also quite competitive I guess, as I paid less than 2800 euros for the whole setup with frameset, groupset, wheels, tires, small bits etc (without pedals & cages), including shipping and taxes. (all bought new, so no second hand prices).

Bike rides really well without any issues, but I have to get some more kilometers in! Definitely happy with my build so far!

Eddy_Twerckx

Re: Velobuild VB-R-168 Frame
« Reply #1658 on: September 15, 2023, 02:05:31 PM »
I have a couple of road races coming up with significant amounts of gravel sections, so I have been trying to maximize the tire space in the frame. The split for one race is around 15% tame gravel/85% asphalt and 45% tame gravel / 55% asphalt for the other.
I have been looking for high volume road tyres with lower rolling resistance compared to gravel tires.

I currently have Vittoria Terreno Zero's in 32c and they are very puncture resistant but noticeably slower than a road tire (as it probably should be). Very good if there is a high risk of punctures or a need for more grip.

Schwalbe have a 34c model of their Pro One Evo TLE which I picked up. I mounted them on Light Bicycle WR45's which are 25mm internal (hooked). They measure 33,5mm.

Surprisingly there is still a bit of space. Obviously they are narrower than advertised but it probably also has to do with the lack of knobs and that the wide rim gives the tire a lower profile.
I would say if you have wide rims the bike could probably handle a 35mm WAM slick tire if you can live with minimal mud clearance. Anyone wanna sponser me some Rene Herse Bon Jon Pass  ;D ?







How are these tires working for you? The clearance looks good to go in my book. And I’m curious how they would do for light gravel.

jokage

Re: Velobuild VB-R-168 Frame
« Reply #1659 on: September 16, 2023, 01:16:45 AM »
Hi guys.

Does anyone have specifications for the bolt used to fasten the seatpost? Mine is damaged on the head and I can't get it out with a hex key. I'd like to have a replacement before I forcefully extract it.

cramy

Re: Velobuild VB-R-168 Frame
« Reply #1660 on: September 16, 2023, 03:14:14 AM »
Hey guys, I finished my build last week. Wanted to share my experience with you and say thanks for all the insights!

I went with a 168 frameset, custom painted in size 54. The ordering process was fine, Chris was responsive and answered all/most of my questions. Settling on the color for the paintjob was not straightforward however, as I wanted a special color for which I had a pantone code (metallic color as per pantone code). He always said that they can do the color, but “not metallic” which was quite confusing since the color code was referring to a metallic color.
So after a bit of back and forth, we decided to try a candy-blue paintjob (transparent blue over metallic silver base). After a week, he sent pictures of the painted frame and said that they will paint another one as it wasn’t metallic enough (without even asking me if I was happy with the paintjob). So another week later, I had two “versions” of the paintjob to choose from, and I chose the second one.
The paintjob turned out way better than expected, they did a really good job!

I received the frame via DHL to my door (Germany), with XDB shipping and no additional duties within 10 days after it got shipped.

Frame quality was good. The inside of the fork had a few loose glassfiber-bits inside, maybe the reaming wasn’t perfectly done. I removed most of them, but the steerer tube was a bit to tight for the Deda 70 compression plug, so I sanded down the lower part of the compression plug a tiny bit.

As for the compression ring, I went with the SL8 one that I got from Specialized for 5€. As the SL8 uses a Headset Bearing with an ID that is 0.5mm larger than the VB, I had to modify the compression ring by sanding (no issue since its made from plastic).
To ensure enough clearance between the frame and the lowest headset spacer, I had to use 5 FSA microspacers that I cut to allow for internal cable routing. I also bent the lowest microspacer to prevent the sharp edges of the cut spacers from damaging the brake hoses. (as seen in the pictures)
Headset is free of any play.
I used the separate bar/stem combo, but 3D-printed a topcap that allows to run spacers above the stem to validate the position before cutting the steerer (too) short.
Routing the brake hoses (no shifter cables, as I run semi-wireless Di2) trough the bars was tough and required some sanding to remove the sharp edges on the exit holes in the handlebar. (I have tons of respect to you guys who manage to route 4 cables trough those handlebars, lol. Seems impossible from my perspective)

Building the bike was straightforward. BB was properly sized (a tiny bit undersized, but the Token Ninja BB pressed/threaded in fine).

As for the seatpost, I originally planned to replace the aluminium hardware with carbon parts from an old Elita One seatpost. However, they did not fit (and were only marginally lighter anyways). Has anyone found good replacement hardware to shave a few grams of that seatpost?
However, I had no issue with a slipping seatpost (used carbon paste) so far.

Regarding the weights:
•   Frame (without any hardware, Size 54, painted in “candy blue”): 1025g (photo shows frame with hardware and axle)
•   FD Hanger with screws: 15g
•   RD Hanger with screws: 17g
•   Uncut Fork incl. separate crown race: 428g (cut to about 402g, with a few cm left to be cut)
•   Stem 100mm (without Topcap): 193g
•   Handlebar 400mm: 270 g (quite a bit heavier than expected)
•   Headset spacers (all, without c-ring):77g
•   SL8 C-Ring: 5g
•   Seatpost: 240g
•   Seatpost grommet: 2,4g
•   Seatpost wedge: 24g
•   Front Axle: 37g
•   Rear Axle: 45g
•   Headset bearings: 62g

The whole build with complete Ultegra Di2 R8100 came out at 7,78 kg without pedals or 8,19kg with Pedals, Bottle cages, computer mount.
Once I dialed in my fit (coming from an endurance frame that was already slammed, I will slowly lower my position), I will probably shave a few hundred gramms by switching to a lighter cockpit, saddle… Also thinking about a lighter wheelset (currently at 1635g for the pair).

Complete price was also quite competitive I guess, as I paid less than 2800 euros for the whole setup with frameset, groupset, wheels, tires, small bits etc (without pedals & cages), including shipping and taxes. (all bought new, so no second hand prices).

Bike rides really well without any issues, but I have to get some more kilometers in! Definitely happy with my build so far!

nice built, and nice color. do you have a link for the sl8 compression ring?

joegal

Re: Velobuild VB-R-168 Frame
« Reply #1661 on: September 16, 2023, 06:21:01 AM »
nice built, and nice color. do you have a link for the sl8 compression ring?

You have to contact your specialized dealer, they will help you out. Part number is S222500011.

chughes

Re: Velobuild VB-R-168 Frame
« Reply #1662 on: September 16, 2023, 03:04:59 PM »
@cramy  a good alternative is Cane Creek Ancora Expansion Plug (Gold) (1-1/8"). With it in, even if you intend to take it out, just like the specialized ones, you will have to take extra steps to get it out. This thing holds I find, even better than longer plugs offered by Neco

Easyfunk

Re: Velobuild VB-R-168 Frame
« Reply #1663 on: September 18, 2023, 06:11:30 AM »
Hey guys, after I have read through the whole thread, I would like to thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience!

I'm lurking around the velobuild 168 since a while. I own a Specialized SL6 in 58 with rim brakes. I'm very happy with the fit and character of the bike. But I don't ride so much anymore to justify another S-Works (and prices gone crazy). Only problem with the 168 for me is the lack of a zero offset seatpost. A build will need a spacer or two (not getting younger anymore...). Does anyone have experiences or guidance how much spacers will be needed to compensate 20mm offset?

Are there other frames in the category of the 168 that are more or less comparable to SL7/8 or Supersix  with a (working) tire clearance of 32?

TidyDinosaur

Re: Velobuild VB-R-168 Frame
« Reply #1664 on: September 18, 2023, 07:37:33 AM »
Hey guys, after I have read through the whole thread, I would like to thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience!

I'm lurking around the velobuild 168 since a while. I own a Specialized SL6 in 58 with rim brakes. I'm very happy with the fit and character of the bike. But I don't ride so much anymore to justify another S-Works (and prices gone crazy). Only problem with the 168 for me is the lack of a zero offset seatpost. A build will need a spacer or two (not getting younger anymore...). Does anyone have experiences or guidance how much spacers will be needed to compensate 20mm offset?

Are there other frames in the category of the 168 that are more or less comparable to SL7/8 or Supersix  with a (working) tire clearance of 32?

TFSA and Delihea have a SL7 clone. But I don't think 32mm will fit... I have the SL6 clone and the front is OK for a 32mm (even 33.5mm real size) but the back is not...