Velobuild VB-R-168 Frame

[jokage]

Checking in after 1917km logged on Strava. Everything is still solid. There's no issue whatsoever.

[hazzer19]

Hey guys.. how are going your builds?
I put it the sl7 seatpost cover that I read in some posts. It fits perfect.

I got one as well and they fit great. Most economical original SL7 part one will ever find? lol

[noodleshop]

Finished!! All was fine, but the internal cabling thru the stem-handlebar is not easy…at the end looks great. I’ll ride tomorrow to test it, will see how it works.
Info: this bike shares geometry with SL7, but the seatpost has little seatback.. have in mind to fit.

- Velobuild frame VB-R-168 size 58.
- Velobuild integrated stem+handlebar 110/440
- Ultegra 8020-8070
- Crankset Rotor 3D+ 1x (42t)
- Cassette leonardi 9-36
- wheels serenade 45mm (28mm witdth) tubular
- 7,6kg with pedals and bottle cages.

Very curious about this cassette, and if anyone knows where to find an aliexpress version! $429 for the Leonardi is quite steep for me, unfortunately.

I was looking at the 10-36 one from SROAD but I'd have to run a 48t single front chainring to get the gearing I want. Furthermore I plan to run an oval so the size will be more like a 50-51t, it's quite tough to find a frame that can clear that size chainring as a 1x setup, unless anyone has some ideas to tinker with the chainline to make this possible.

[stmbike]

I bought a Leonardi in an ocasion semi-new, but yes, is expensive.
You have also the E Thirteen cassettes 11v of 9-34, 9-39, cheaper than Leonardi.

Have in mind that with the 9 cog you can go with chainring 42 or 44. the 42-9 is aprox the same relation that the 52-11. The 44-9 is more than 53-11. In the low side, the 42-36 is like 34-29 (more than a compact).

https://www.alltricks.es/F-11911-cassettes/P-1652017-casete_sram_xd_e_thirteen_xcx_plus_de_11_velocidades?gclid=Cj0KCQjwt-6LBhDlARIsAIPRQcJpKPx5VETc_aqRwXO5eTPD5mb9WQlIu5NLcKe7-AHAX8Ie_X0PNfAaAuouEALw_wcB

[1Sigma]

Very curious about this cassette, and if anyone knows where to find an aliexpress version! $429 for the Leonardi is quite steep for me, unfortunately.

I was looking at the 10-36 one from SROAD but I'd have to run a 48t single front chainring to get the gearing I want. Furthermore I plan to run an oval so the size will be more like a 50-51t, it's quite tough to find a frame that can clear that size chainring as a 1x setup, unless anyone has some ideas to tinker with the chainline to make this possible.

Hi Noodleshop,

So, I run a 48T, 0 offset, Narrow-Wide 1x chainring, with about 25mm of clearance (50mm of clearance in terms of chainring diameter) before the chainring would rub the chainstay. 
A 48T chainring has a diameter of 200.8mm, and a 50T has a diameter of 208.8mm (delta of 8.8mm), so there would be ample room. 

In terms of chainline you should be OK except in the lowest gears.   I am guessing the chainline between a 48T and 50T chainring will be very similar.
I currently run a 12S 11-32T cassette.  The chainline sweet spot is on the 7th gear, 48x15 (this yields 36.8kph at 90RPM)

The chainline deviation is acceptable for me (no discernable friction, no drivetrain noise) between 4th and 9th gears (25T and 14T). 3rd (28T) and 11th (12T) gears feel fine, but the deviation starts to look a bit excessive.  2nd (30T) and 12th (11T) gears have clear deviation, but does not generate any rubbing noises.  1st gear (32T) clearly is excessive, and rubbing can be heard.

I didn't actually measure anything - this is all just based on eyeball and on-the-road experience

[noodleshop]

I bought a Leonardi in an ocasion semi-new, but yes, is expensive.
You have also the E Thirteen cassettes 11v of 9-34, 9-39, cheaper than Leonardi.

Have in mind that with the 9 cog you can go with chainring 42 or 44. the 42-9 is aprox the same relation that the 52-11. The 44-9 is more than 53-11. In the low side, the 42-36 is like 34-29 (more than a compact).

https://www.alltricks.es/F-11911-cassettes/P-1652017-casete_sram_xd_e_thirteen_xcx_plus_de_11_velocidades?gclid=Cj0KCQjwt-6LBhDlARIsAIPRQcJpKPx5VETc_aqRwXO5eTPD5mb9WQlIu5NLcKe7-AHAX8Ie_X0PNfAaAuouEALw_wcB

Thanks for the information stmbike, really appreciate it didn't know those existed! Those open up some interesting possibilities. The price is a lot more palatable too! 

[noodleshop]

Hi Noodleshop,

So, I run a 48T, 0 offset, Narrow-Wide 1x chainring, with about 25mm of clearance (50mm of clearance in terms of chainring diameter) before the chainring would rub the chainstay. 
A 48T chainring has a diameter of 200.8mm, and a 50T has a diameter of 208.8mm (delta of 8.8mm), so there would be ample room. 

In terms of chainline you should be OK except in the lowest gears.   I am guessing the chainline between a 48T and 50T chainring will be very similar.
I currently run a 12S 11-32T cassette.  The chainline sweet spot is on the 7th gear, 48x15 (this yields 36.8kph at 90RPM)

The chainline deviation is acceptable for me (no discernable friction, no drivetrain noise) between 4th and 9th gears (25T and 14T). 3rd (28T) and 11th (12T) gears feel fine, but the deviation starts to look a bit excessive.  2nd (30T) and 12th (11T) gears have clear deviation, but does not generate any rubbing noises.  1st gear (32T) clearly is excessive, and rubbing can be heard.

I didn't actually measure anything - this is all just based on eyeball and on-the-road experience

Thanks so much 1Sigma, great to hear from someone running a similar setup! Appreciate the really detailed numbers. Sounds like there will be ample room to run the 50t oval in there!

The chainline deviation info sounds acceptable to me, where I'm at is pretty flat and I rarely find myself in the top gears. 36.8kmph at 90rpm with four gears to spare, sounds pretty ample for my speed range.

May I ask about what crank/chainring setup you are running? Still shopping around for those. I was thinking about the Zrace cranks but heard some unhappy reviews of them around here. I'd prefer the SRAM-style direct mount chainrings without a spider, but would love to hear what you're using.

[1Sigma]

Thanks so much 1Sigma, great to hear from someone running a similar setup! Appreciate the really detailed numbers. Sounds like there will be ample room to run the 50t oval in there!

The chainline deviation info sounds acceptable to me, where I'm at is pretty flat and I rarely find myself in the top gears. 36.8kmph at 90rpm with four gears to spare, sounds pretty ample for my speed range.

May I ask about what crank/chainring setup you are running? Still shopping around for those. I was thinking about the Zrace cranks but heard some unhappy reviews of them around here. I'd prefer the SRAM-style direct mount chainrings without a spider, but would love to hear what you're using.

Currently I am running the Magene P325CS Power Meter crankset.  It is direct Mount and almost exactly like the SRAM AXS 8-bolt system.   
I have a Stone AXS direct Mount to 5-arm spider adapter (Required a but if going to match the Magene Mount) which is attached to my chainring.  So, I am kind of using both direct Mount and a spider.  (For me this was necessary to access the charging ports on the power meter)

My 1x is PassQuest. Acceptable weight, good build quality.  I have no clutch rear derailleur, and I have not had a single drop.  They also offer a number of oval and direct Mount options.   

[rank1]

ou can't really do anything wrong the whole thing is relatively simple and can be solved with an intermediate spacer ring ...
therefore the question was whether I am too stupid

Hi Renrew,
 
I too have this question... I'm currently building the VB-099 with the HB-11 which I took delivery over two months ago. I'm currently dry fitting everything to ensure I that I don't screw anything up..

Did you end up putting additional micro spacers between the compression ring and the head set covers? If so, how many?
Did it have any impact on your (4??) internal cables for routing?


I'm guessing the micro spacer is meant to create a buffer from the compression ring and the headset cover so it does not touch the headtube on the frame? Maybe I didn't look hard enough or understood it before, but this was the first thread that I saw mentioned this issue for the velobuilds.

TIA!

 

[renrew]

Hi,
you can order this from Aliexpress. I have now put 2mm in between. There is a lot, so you have a crack. Probably 1.5 mm is enough.

https://de.aliexpress.com/item/33056428213.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.3f864c4d5ooMFw

[renrew]

you have to put it over the ring and work it out the same way so that the cables have room. It's just about increasing the distance otherwise you won't be able to turn the fork.



so you have to do it i hope i could help you

[rank1]

Hi,
you can order this from Aliexpress. I have now put 2mm in between. There is a lot, so you have a crack. Probably 1.5 mm is enough.

https://de.aliexpress.com/item/33056428213.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.3f864c4d5ooMFw

Thanks alot renrew for this and the message below.. that has helped me as I would have to ensure that I have those spacers before I can proceed further with the builds!

[Irideslowly]

Has anyone found the sl7 seatpost cover on aliexpress?

[hazzer19]

Inspired by your post. Bike check after 2,449.7 Km. So far so good. A couple part changes after the initial build:

- Changed saddle from Specialized Power to a lightweight carbon EC90 model with cut out ~90g (thanks for the review @Carbonazza). Surprisingly comfortable although it has no padding. Not sure if it fits my sit bones like it should but enjoying the weight savings. As a 90Kg rider I feel well supporter on it. Considering putting it on my VB GF01 gravel bike as well https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32921891894.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.4ddf4c4dsNjPl5

- Installed a LTWOO UT OSPW. Was concerned about the unsealed ceramic bearings and planned on changing them to regular sealed bearings as soon as I could but they seem to be sealed a bit better than I thought. Haven't spun them after my first somewhat wet road ride yesterday so we'll see how much grime got into them. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003009824917.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.4ddf4c4dsNjPl5

On my last ride I noticed quite a bit of flex on my HB01 bars. I think this was in part due to the bar wedge tightening piece becoming a bit loose but also may need to bring down the bars a bit more so they grip more of the fork steerer, or the bars just have too much flex period.

[Pigdog]

Hi all!  I have been lurking this thread for the past few months while deciding if I should go ahead with building my own bike, and whether to get it from Velobuild. Really helpful tips so far and definitely helped with my decision to make the purchase! I finally decided order a VB-R-168 from Chris, in Matte Chameleon Green colour. I thought it would be useful to share my experience and two-cents on the bike building process. It was one rewarding experience to finally be out riding on your self-build bike!

Size: 52
Groupset: Ultegra R8000 Hydraulic
Disc: RT800 140mm Front and Rear
Handlebar: 400mm/90mm
Wheelset: From Taobao 60mm Depth with Hubsmith hubs
Tires: GP5000 TL
Saddle: AliExpress power saddle lookalike
Pedals: AliExpress Lollipop pedals

Weight: 8.2+Kg there about

The building of the bike was not too difficult, just gotta do research and watch youtube for bike building process, tips and tricks, note the torque settings of the various components. The most tedious of all would be the internal routing. I routed the cables through the handlebars first, followed by the rest of the routing through the frame. Used an old brake wire to help with the guiding of cables through the respective cable holes.
The FD cable stop was some what tricky, I had to file off the edges to get the cable to fit in to the hole. There is a small bracket to secure the FD cable stop into, it is rather flimsy and mine broke off. I had to fit it back into the frame from the bottom bracket hole, and screw the cable stop into the bracket. (sorry i didnt have pictures to explain it better).

Another problem I had was that the headset compression ring not being able to sit squarely into the bearing, I had to squeeze the compression ring inwards a little (with a lil force) for it to sit properly into the bearing. Otherwise there would be large gap between the headset spacer and frame.

Otherwise, rest of the installation was rather smooth!

This is my first full carbon bike with deep wheels, so I cant exactly do any comparison. In general the bike rides really well, with much better handling, and maintains speed better.  Overall very happy with the whole build!

Only real issue i had during my build was that FD cable stop as well. Mine didn’t fit well and then broke. I had to make my own. I guess overall thats not a terrible issue to have, considering. But it was super annoying.