The Shiny New AM831 Group Buy (A) Thread!

[JJJ]

Bike finished; lighter than expected at 12.3 Kg, where the tyres alone are 2 Kg! I will make a build thread later on if I will have time, for now main components list:
Fork manitou mezzer, rear shock DT swiss 531, rims carbonality carbon asymmetric with dt swiss hubs, tyres maxis DHF ant  + rekon post, saddle,post,pedals aliexpress, handlebar OG evkin, groupset and brakes shimano XT.

Does that weight include the pedals? What are your exact wheelset specs?

[scourge]

Looks awesome. Nicely done. I'm almost done with my orange build.

I've run into one issue. I was trying to route a cable through the seat stay for the rear brake line. The plan was to route a shifter cable and then use it to guide the hose over it, then pull the cable out. I thought this may be asked than just doing the hose by itself.  But I was having trouble even getting the cable through. I got it through the front triangle fine but couldn't get it to come out the seat stay. The magnet I was using wasn't very strong, but it's all I had. I came up with the dumb idea of feeding another cable from the seat stay exit. So I had two cables coming from opposite directions, both meeting at the exits by the rear shock. The plan was to tape the cables together and then pull them both out the seat stay, then unhook them so I'd have one continuous cable through the frame to guide the brake line. I actually did this when routing the cable to the derailleur and it worked out great.

Well, I must have used too much tape or something when connecting the cables, or the exit hole in the seat stay is at a weird angle, because I could not get it to exit. I just could not get it out. I tried guiding it with a paper clip. I got a bit not the tape out and pulled it with pliers thinking that was it, but the tape just broke away in pieces. So, it was right there, and I figured I just had to pull harder. I pulled so hard the paint and a little of the hood by the seat stay exit hole snapped. Then I tried filing the hole a little bigger. No dice. Tried to go back out the other way, and it wouldn't come out that way either. I pulled so hard eventually the cable frayed and snapped. So I didn't want to damage the frame and eventually gave up. I clipped it off as short as I could.

So now I guess I'm going to go with an externally routed rear cable. That doesn't really bother me. Externally routed cables bother some people, but I've had several frames with them, and I don't even notice them looks-wise. I guess I could get a stronger magnet and try again. Maybe the cable will pass by the cut wording there. Maybe not. I just hope it doesn't rattle when I'm riding or I'll be looking for something to stuff in there to quiet it down.

[FlaMtnBkr]

I've installed an e13 Helix-R cassette, with a 9-tooth cog, and there is no chain slack on that cog with the prescribed number of links. Sounds like your cage length is too short! Is your derailleur the 7100-SGS or 7120-SGS model? The 7120 is for a 2x12 drivetrain and goes only up to a 45T cog.

I made the chain 2 links longer than Shimano states so it being long in the smallest gear makes perfect sense [edit- this sounds a bit rude reading it again. If so, that wasn't my intention!]. I was just pointing out to the other person that said his derailleur looked like mine when his chain was too short, that I tried a longer chain (though too long) and it did correct the derailleur but wasn't a feasible option. I do have a m7100 derailleur with 51T cassette.

At this point I've determined it's impossible to get the derailleur adjusted with the line at teeth tips and perpendicular like every adjustment instructions I've found shows, due to derailleur placement with the out of spec hanger (which someone else has verified as out of spec) and setting the shifting up as best as possible. So far I've gotten it OK, but not great and not what I was expecting and a bit disappointing.

[darius72]

Weight with pedals. The wheelset is 1530 g in total, dt swiss 350 hubs , sapim CX ray spokes and these rims:
https://www.carbonal.com.cn/carbon-mountain-bike/29er-mtb-asd937tr-asymmetric-37mm-wide-24-5mm-deep-carbon-rim.html
Anyway is weird when you fit a 1 Kg tyre on a 750 grams complete wheel...
P.s. I use tubes, no sealant

[darius72]

Looks awesome. Nicely done. I'm almost done with my orange build.

I've run into one issue. I was trying to route a cable through the seat stay for the rear brake line. The plan was to route a shifter cable and then use it to guide the hose over it, then pull the cable out. I thought this may be asked than just doing the hose by itself.  But I was having trouble even getting the cable through. I got it through the front triangle fine but couldn't get it to come out the seat stay. The magnet I was using wasn't very strong, but it's all I had. I came up with the dumb idea of feeding another cable from the seat stay exit. So I had two cables coming from opposite directions, both meeting at the exits by the rear shock. The plan was to tape the cables together and then pull them both out the seat stay, then unhook them so I'd have one continuous cable through the frame to guide the brake line. I actually did this when routing the cable to the derailleur and it worked out great.

t way either. I pulled so hard eventually the cable frayed and snapped. So I didn't want to damage the frame and eventually gave up. I clipped it off as short as I could.

So now I guess I'm going to go with an externally routed rear cable. That doesn't really bother me. Externally routed cables bother some people, but I've had several frames with them, and I don't even notice them looks-wise. I guess I could get a stronger magnet and try again. Maybe the cable will pass by the cut wording there. Maybe not. I just hope it doesn't rattle when I'm riding or I'll be looking for something to stuff in there to quiet it down.

Who invented press fit BB probably is burning in the flames of the hell, who invented internal route cables maybe too: why make a frame weaker and get a pain in the ass during installation just for aesthetic?
In my case I had to file the holes, otherwise no way; then I used a mix of the techinique dental floss & vacuum cleaner plus electrical cable puller: at the end I succeded but it took a lot of time.

[darius72]

Has anyone that's gone with Shimano 12 speed been able to get the derailleur set up right? It seems like when the B screw adjustment is correct the derailleur isn't at the right angle. I'm still playing with it but shifting isn't very good so far.

I'm also going to try to find Shimanos specs on derailleur placement in relation to the axle. I'm new to 12 speed but was a bike mechanic for quite a few years and something seems "off".

I installed 12 speed XT and aligned the line to the teeths of the 51 cog; the curvature of the mark line isn't exactly following the teeths profile, I don't know if it's a problem; shifting is generally good but not great, sometimes "clang" noise shifting up under load, maybe need more fine tuning.

[FlaMtnBkr]

I installed 12 speed XT and aligned the line to the teeths of the 51 cog; the curvature of the mark line isn't exactly following the teeths profile, I don't know if it's a problem; shifting is generally good but not great, sometimes "clang" noise shifting up under load, maybe need more fine tuning.

I'm fairly sure we all have hangers that are out of the specified limits that Sram has published for their current drivetrains and I suspect Shimano also uses though I haven't found what they spec. How much that effects everything I don't know, but may be something to keep in mind...

I have emailed Eddie to see if they have any other hangers that fit the frame and to try to get his thoughts. If I hear anything worthwhile I'll definitely pass it along.

[JJJ]

I'm fairly sure we all have hangers that are out of the specified limits that Sram has published for their current drivetrains and I suspect Shimano also uses though I haven't found what they spec. How much that effects everything I don't know, but may be something to keep in mind...

Apparently we all have the same hangers, and Shimanos should not be specified differently than SRAM, otherwise the bike frames would need to come wit two different hanger models!

Really weird what's happening to you. There must be something wrong somewhere. Is your chainline correct?

[JJJ]

I've run into one issue. I was trying to route a cable through the seat stay for the rear brake line. The plan was to route a shifter cable and then use it to guide the hose over it, then pull the cable out. I thought this may be asked than just doing the hose by itself.  But I was having trouble even getting the cable through. I got it through the front triangle fine but couldn't get it to come out the seat stay.

I managed to route the brake line directly in the seat stay, pushing it from back to front, after filing the rear hole a little to give the line a better entry angle. The free end just popped out at the other end with some twiddling. Anyway, the free end becomes visible through the bigger front hole, so you can help it out with a small screwdriver.

[zilcho]

I managed to route the brake line directly in the seat stay, pushing it from back to front, after filing the rear hole a little to give the line a better entry angle. The free end just popped out at the other end with some twiddling. Anyway, the free end becomes visible through the bigger front hole, so you can help it out with a small screwdriver.

I've found having picks around is very useful when running anything internally. Homemade options: paper clip, wire coat hanger, wheel spoke filed down. The string and tape method can work but have issues as you've seen. A magnetic routing kit is great too and you can get them for pretty cheap on AE now.

[zorinena]

I have a question regarding the Rear Shock mounting hardware.. I am trying to build a couple of bikes ( 27.5" wheels ). For the rear shock, i understand the size of the shock, but just needed the clarification of the hardware..

Do I need the following : ( confusion if I need the kit or not )

1. M8x22.86 - https://thelostco.com/products/the-real-2021-fox-mounting-hardware?variant=32303772631121
2. M8x30 -  https://thelostco.com/products/the-real-2021-fox-mounting-hardware?variant=32303770370129 or
2. M8x30-Kit - https://thelostco.com/products/the-real-2021-fox-mounting-hardware?variant=32407783309393


Thanks,
J

[cybrsrce]

I have a question regarding the Rear Shock mounting hardware.. I am trying to build a couple of bikes ( 27.5" wheels ). For the rear shock, i understand the size of the shock, but just needed the clarification of the hardware..

Do I need the following : ( confusion if I need the kit or not )

1. M8x22.86 - https://thelostco.com/products/the-real-2021-fox-mounting-hardware?variant=32303772631121
2. M8x30 -  https://thelostco.com/products/the-real-2021-fox-mounting-hardware?variant=32303770370129 or
2. M8x30-Kit - https://thelostco.com/products/the-real-2021-fox-mounting-hardware?variant=32407783309393

The roller bearing kit only fits the damper body, with a few exceptions that don't fit this frame, so don't buy that. Contrary to the Haideli site, the 30mm is actually at the front (frame connection) and the 22.86 at the rear (linkage).

[zorinena]

The roller bearing kit only fits the damper body, with a few exceptions that don't fit this frame, so don't buy that. Contrary to the Haideli site, the 30mm is actually at the front (frame connection) and the 22.86 at the rear (linkage).

Thanks, I will get the regular ones then.. cheers

-J

[darius72]

Alert for all users:
 I've found the shock conneting rod with 8 mm allen key loose after first 20 km test ride...I made it tight adding more thread lock compound; definetely these bolts need some attention

[FlaMtnBkr]

Will the bolts tighten the connection even when tight?

It wasn't obvious, but I found one side wouldn't get tight enough and there was flex when pushing and pulling on the rear end. This was because the countersunk hole that the bolt head sits in and is supposed to pull everything tight, was a little too deep and when the bolt bottoms out in the linkage there is still space under the bolt head and allows some side to side movement.

I took a fairly stiff wall plastic bottle, cut it open and laid it flat and cut a washer/spacer with heavy utility scissors. This let the bolt tighten everything up and feels like it should, at least when pulling on it and when sitting on it and bouncing it up and down (there are dirtbike sounds too but I don't think they are important...I kid, I kid). I was going to see if I could find a metal one the right size or make one, but I think what I made will hold up just fine. Time will tell.

Might want to double check all the connections because like I said, it wasn't obvious until I gave it a good sideways tug.