Ip256sl building in progress

[Sjon7283]

Blisters on my fingers.... You dit it with a dremel or by hand also?

[MTB2223]

By hand (drill and pliers). The next time I'll use a dremel.

[carbonazza]

I did it by hand as well.

If you start with a very small diameter, say 2.5mm.
Go through it.
Then take a 3mm, and so on up to 4.5mm (to run a 4mm hose).
Or up to 5mm if you run a 4.5mm hose (jagwire)

It takes about 20' to do it this way.

[blueducati]

Why are you drilling out the cable stop? Just run bare wire through the frame, it's a lot easier.

[carbonazza]

If you ride in humid conditions. Mud and water accumulate at the bottom of the frame.
Just where the cable passes through, the rather clunky, plastic guide.

By going end-to-end with the lubricated hose, the cable stays protected all through, and provide a very smooth shifting,
And I guess for longer.

[blueducati]

Is that a problem you guys have seen before, or are you just being proactive? My S-Works Tarmac had exposed bare cable routed under the bottom bracket and I never had any issues in the 2 years I owned it.

[Sjon7283]

I think its the best solution, but a hel of à job! Stil drilling.....

[carbonazza]

It was proactive. The cable setup is quite poor on the 256 frame.

The hose is easy to change if you have a long cable(with a double length). One hose pushing the other.
I'm not sure changing the bare cable is easy though.

Since you can't inspect, clean or lube the cable easily when routed internally.
I preferred to have the cable rigidly wrapped in the hose end-to-end. And forget about it.

May be it is an overprotection, but so far the shift is still as sharp as day one.
It could be interesting to see after a wet season or two, how both setups compare.

[blueducati]

That's good that your shifts are good, that would be my only concern with running so much housing. My company makes automotive cables, and I know your cable efficiency goes down with increased housing and routing, since the housing compresses and changes your effective cable length. Different applications, obviously, so maybe with the lower loads seen on bikes it doesn't matter.

[Sjon7283]

Mtb2223: how long is the cable stop inside? I think i'm through with a 4mm drill, but almost the entire drill was needed

[MTB2223]

Ehhh, there wasn't much left of the drill. Just enough to hold the drill with the pliers (Dutch: tang).
It really took al lot of time to drill this way. The next time I'll get a dremel.

[Sjon7283]

You think a dremel could do the job? If it does, i'll get a dremel to tomorrow, but i'm not sure i can avoid the seatstay with it. You mean a standard dremel or something with a flexibel hose?

[MTB2223]

You think a dremel could do the job? If it does, i'll get a dremel to tomorrow, but i'm not sure i can avoid the seatstay with it. You mean a standard dremel or something with a flexibel hose?

I think something with a flexible hose. I'm not sure, but I think that's the easiest way. But, you're almost there, Don't you have larger drill ? How long is your drill ? And what about your 3.5 drill ? Or did you directly started with the 4mm ?

[Sjon7283]

Directly started with the 4.0 drill....... Now starting with a 4.2 or 4.5 drill, and hoping that wil do the djob. I searched for something with a flex hose, bot can't realy find one on the internet that suits the job. BTW, is the cable stop ar the top also that long on the inside?

[carbonazza]

The top cable stop is aluminium, and very easy to drill.
I did it with an electric drill, again gently from 2.5mm to 4.5mm.
To insure I didn't go out of alignment of the existing hole.