FS830 Enduro Frame - Stef Biggel’s build

[Zomb1e]

I had a longer ride today round the valley.

What are your impressions about crankset you are using on this bike? As I see this is Fovno Goblin cranks (http://www.fovno.com/product/cranksets/goblin-crankset/) with some different "branding". Does these cranks stiff enough? Haven't you got any problems with main screws which connecting crank arms to the axle?

[Stef Biggel]

Till yet i’m satisfied with the crankset (i use the 30T).
The screws wasn’t a problem. But by torquing i think the Axel is a little bit to short. If the Axel is tighten first time the crank is working tough. Now a few meters hight behind me it works better. I think the plastic caps from the bottom Bracket sits down a bit.

[Eddy-haideli]

Ok folks,
Before the weather becomes bad, I’ve done a testing drive with the new FS830. For my opinion it works fantastic, but you must understand I came from a XC bike with only 120 mm travel.
I ride a really short home trail behind my house, only a half of an hour with a few short steep hill climbs, a few little jumps and some steep and narrow curves … and it feels really great. Detecting no loose rear or things like that. Very direct reaction, climbs as well as my xc and it decent as the hell. It feels a little bit like the SC nomad from a friend of me.

So hopefully this helps the guys who are interested in the frame and I will give more experience when I’ve done longer rides.

Thanks for your sharing, happy that you like it.

Many thanks.
Eddy

[Stef Biggel]

I've had several rides with the frame now and so far the rear triangle is fine and doesn't have any weird degrees of freedom.

You might see me trying the ZTTO disc rotor - but those are crappy ones - I switched to Galfer in the front and Hope in the rear.

Since the bearings may be overtightened, I start changing them. I measured them as 15mm x 24mm x 7mm. Double row, full fill bearings are available for this dimension (3802 2RS MAX). This can absorb 30% more load and also act from the side. But I will still install a spacer tube. I will post the correct dimensions in this thread.

[Stef Biggel]

Yesterday my Ztto Bottom Bracket is gone to the Hell … time for Installing the Enduro MRA2437LLB

[neuesten]

hi...are you using the ztto ceramic or just the normal bearing?

[Stef Biggel]

Ceramic

[lilbigmacky]

Ive heard nothing but bad things about those ztto bbs. Are you getting a whole new bb or just replacing the bearings?

[Stef Biggel]

You're right, I've only heard bad things. Unfortunately, when I heard about it, I had already bought it.

I'm just swapping the bearings because the case isn't that bad.

Finally all CNC parts are ok, things like bearings and brakes are problematic.

[lilbigmacky]

what was the problem with the ztto rotors?

[Stef Biggel]

what was the problem with the ztto rotors?

First problem, they don't run straight. Both front and rear were bent 1-1.5 mm, so it was not possible to adjust the brakes without the rotors touching the pads.

The second problem is that the surface is very rough. therefore there is no good braking performance and the pads are also put under enormous stress.

[Stef Biggel]

Now i’ve replaced my bottom bracked bearings. This works without problems. I glued the new one additionally with locktide in the cups.

We will see the next weeks how it works.

 

[endo.alley]

OK, so regarding the questions I had about the pivot design, contrary to what I assumed earlier, the bearings are in the frame. So it's this type of pivot:



The link eyelets have shoulders that press on the inner races (directly or through shims that compensate the axial clearance). There doesn't seem to be a spacer inside the frame between the inner races. This means that if you torque the bolts too tight, the eyelets will flex inward and push the inner races inwards, crushing the balls This is not a great pivot design, sorry to say Stef, but it's no worse than the AM831 pivot between the lower link and the front triangle. So extra care should be taken to not overtorque the bolts (and maybe the 15 Nm specs are already excessive...).

I'm not sure why they chose a conical bolt head.

Can a spacer gusset be added by the consumer to brace against excessive torque? I worry this may be a long term weakness if the frame is constantly flexing near the bearings when under a load.

[Stef Biggel]

I will implement a Spacer as soon as my time it allows, i will give a report on this thread.

[endo.alley]

Has anybody yet ridden one of these bikes and put it through the paces after being built?