New IP-057 Build

[Squishee]

Thanks for the info mtb2223 and foamman1. So your advice would be to go ahead and place my order and wait on the 057 as opposed to keep checking their inventory? I'll be ordering for myself and my homeboy.

[foamman1]

Squishee
   I wish i were seasoned enough to give you the advice you seek. Maybe some of the veterans can better help you with this. That being said i just place and order with Hong Fu. I have had good communicating with Cherry for the last few days. I rolled the dice and hopefully i will not be sorry. I will say this if you are set on the iplay frame and can wait then i would wait. For me hong fu frames from what i have read seems to be ok. That coupled with the fact that i want to be ridding in the second week of January, it was an easy choice.
 In the area that i live we have a couple of bike shops. I have only been in either one a few times over the last 10 years. I have always got the impression that they were only interested in selling you a $1500+ trek or giant ect., neither one have a decent selection of what i call consumables Handgrips, saddles, even tires let along service a bike. So don't know lot of cyclers. I think i have only seen one chiner at the local ridding spot. Zero chance i could catch up to question him  about his frame. It looked like a 036 though.
I do feel you about waiting or not , until 20 minutes ago i was in the same boat for the last month.
L.T.

[Carbon_Dude]

Obviously demand is out stripping supply.  Over the past 1-1/2 years since I built my IP-057 the number of people interested in a Chiner has increased greatly.  Websites like Chinertown are helping people take a chance on building a new bike with a Chinese frame.

My advice would be to place your order now, I doubt the Chinese mfr is going to catch up anytime soon.  Not to mention, if you wait much longer to place an order you will be running into the Chinese New Year where everyone is in China is on vacation for 1-2 weeks.

I'd say work with Peter to select all your options, frame model, carbon weave, bottom bracket, and paint finish.  Then at least you have your order placed.  Over the next month or so you have all the US holidays, so I know I won't be riding as much.  Now seems like a good time to place an order for items that have a long lead time.

[foamman1]

Squishee
 I received an email from peter that frames may be available in as soon as 5 days. A day late for me, but it might be worth double checking with peter/bert.
L.T.

[jwilds1]

I received a similar note today, indicating my IP-057 would ship some time next week...  We shall see.

[Squishee]

I got one today as well. I'm asked Bert for a firm quote with shipping and any other fees but no reply. I did, however, ask for a quote through Hong-Fu and immediately received a quote. I'm sure the question I'm about to ask has been asked a million times here, but........is Hong Fu a dependable Chindor with a reliable, first rate product (aka good craftsmanship)? If so, I will forgo Iplay.

[foamman1]

Ok so i have the frame on the way Fm-057. I have the reba front fork. I have wheels and hubs(stands arch ex and BHS 54 POE hubs) which i am working on building. I am waiting for some sales on the small stuff like saddle, stems, bars, petals and such.
  I had intentions for the drive train to be a 2 x 10 xt group with slx brakes as i understand these are just as good, but i have be eying a race face 1 x 10 set  up.  I don't see much info on these crank setups. Are they good, Light? None of the vendors list weight for the race face setup with BB. With out the RD and gear shifter I could spend a few more dollars on the crank. A 1 x 10 setup would be nice, but should  pass on the 1 x 10 and go for the tried and true shimano 2 x 10 xt?

Too many choices!
L.T.

[Squishee]

Foamman1,
I have a 1X10 on my air 9 alloy. I previously had an xtr-980 3x10 setup. I could only use the middle and outer rings (32/42) due to my derailleur rubbing my tire in granny gear. I never could use my granny gear so I essentially had a 2x. I decided to try a race face narrow wide ring on my crank and remove the shifters /derailleur. The best I can recollect I lost about 1.2 lbs by removing the shifter and derailleur and a few more ounces removing the chain rings and racing them with a race face narrow wide 34t. I don't miss the other gears at all. IMO, do a 2x crank if your budget allows an attach a narrow wide in 1x. If you don't like the 1x you can always go 2x.
The terrain I live in is mountainous (Appalachians) and the 34t crank x 36 cassette serves me well. Large, steep climbs are a suffer fest but do-able. So any long endurance a races with lots of ascent (6500ft+)would definitely be a 32t. If you have an area with a lot of flats where you could wind up a 36t would be good for top end.
As far as the race question I have not raced with my 1x yet. However, in a timed run at a local trail; my trail my times were coonsistantly better by a few seconds ......and that was full on hard as I could go race pace. My climbing has become much better due to the change from a 32( in previously mentioned 3x) to a 34. Oh, another great thing less brainwork. All you have to do is keep that rear derailleur going.
Last but not least - BHS sells great products. I built my first set of wheels with their latest hub. Quality stuff and easy to maintain.
Check out chain reaction cycles they have 1x drive trains at pretty incredible prices. If you don't care to wait 20 days to shipping from Britain.

[cmh]

Last but not least - BHS sells great products.

Total agreement here. They were great when I first found them and they just keep getting better. Highly, highly endorse them.

For anyone who doesn't know what "BHS" refers to - http://www.bikehubstore.com/Default.asp

[foamman1]

Ive been watching merlins and ribble for hot deals on shimano i would like to pull the trigger on these items, but im not sure if these are the front an rear derailurs i need. Ribble list the RD with direct mount and one with hanger. Which one is the right one.
Also the gear shifters say they can be used for 2 x or  3 x . Other vendors you have to chose one or the other. The prices cant be beat but if i cant use some parts they or worthless at any price. Please advise.
L.T.

Shimano 10Spd HG95 XT HGX Chain
   
   US$21.16     US$21.16          US$21.16

Shimano SLX M675 Brake Levers and Post Mount Calipers (set)
   
   US$115.48     US$115.48          US$115.48
   
Shimano 10 Spd XT M771 Cassette 11-34
   
   US$43.62     US$43.62          US$43.62
   

Shimano XT M785 10 Spd Double Cset Inc BB 175 26/38
   
   US$138.58     US$138.58          US$138.58
   

Shimano XT M781 10 Spd Triple Front Gear Conventional DP
   
   US$24.37     US$24.37          US$24.37
   

Shimano XT M780 10 Spd Rapidfire Pods (pair) Black
   
   US$69.28     US$69.28          US$69.28
   

Shimano XT M786 10 Spd Shadow + Rear Gear Bk SGS
   
   US$51.32     US$51.32          US$51.32
   

Shimano RT66 (SLX/Deore) 6 Bolt Disc Brake Rotor 160mm
   
   US$17.65     US$35.30          US$35.30
**    Money Off Coupon    1    US$59.89       US$59.89    -US$59.89
   Totals:    US$499.11    US$59.89    US$439.22
Delivery Charge     US$0.00
Grand Total     US$439.22

[Squishee]

Shimano XT M786 10 Spd Shadow + Rear Gear Bk SGS
   
Just an opinion......if you're going to get a rear derailleur get the "plus" model with the clutch. It prevents the annoying chain slap in rough sections and its very quiet. As an added benefit, if you ever decide to go 1x10, the plus model derailleur will allow you to run a "narrow wide" chainring without a chainguide. No chainguide=less weight, less cost= real cool

Also, xtr front derailleur shifter pod I own has a 2x AND 3x settings. You choose which one by the turn of a screwdriver underneath the pod. I am not sure if this will apply to your shifter however.

[Squishee]

Hanger mount for rear derailleur.

[Patrick C.]

The M780 shifters are 2X-3X convertible as Squishee mentions.  $500 for a mostly XT group is great.

Edit-also, the M786 is a clutch derailer.  I still hear some chain slap with mine on very rough sections if I have the front in the low gear, but it is very minor.  I have not run it with a 1X.

[foamman1]

Thanks again for the help. I missed the 12% off at Ribble. Merlin's Cycle and Ribble are still under the 500 mark for the listed components.Ill try to hold out till cyber monday to see if one of these guys will throw out another 10-20 off code. If not i'll just buy the at this price. It is still way better than US prices.
  So hanger mount it is. What is the purpose of the direct mount.  I know the bike has a hanger why not mount directly without the extra "hanger". I'm not trying to which is better war. I just would like to know the place for each.
 Also the front derailieur will be top pull on the 057 with clamp mount. I assume it will be bottom swing or normal as some vendors call it.If memory serves i have seen a FD with clamp mount and Top swing also.
Thanks,
L.T.

[brmeyer135]

direct mount - means it connects directly to your brake...it removes some adjustability....pretty much you can slide it left and right.
It is liked because it cleans up the bar - no separate clamp for brake and shifter.
With Shimano, you can get into trouble because they have changed their direct mount style...so that needs to be looked out for.