New IP-057 Build

[foamman1]

Well i hope i ordered what i need this is the front one http://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/sp/mtb-bmx-bike/derailleurs-front-mtb-shimano-xt-m786-10-speed-double-front-derailleur/shimgmfr140
and
this is the rear http://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/sp/mtb-bmx-bike/derailleurs-rear-mtb-shimano-xt-m786-10-speed-shadow-rear-derailleur/shimgmrr125
Please Advise. If not i will have these for sale cheap

I managed to get the stan's arch wheels and BHS hubs together I used Sapim race spokes. they look good. I have them true within less than 1/2 mm side to side and less than that the other way (well the weld joint may be a little more) Is this an acceptable amount for a mountain bike?

Now just waiting on the frame and other goodies. I'm hopping everything will be in the week before Christmas so i can assemble and ride. I am taking the week before Christmas Off from work. Yea!
L.T.

[Squishee]

Good job on the wheel building. The joints of my Stans Crest's gave me some false readings when I built my set.  I think you'll like the BHS hubs. They're pretty shweet!

[brmeyer135]

Your front and rear der. look correct for what I thought I read that you had plans for.

[foamman1]

Thanks, for the reply on the derailers  I have a million more questions, but just a few for now.

1. I ordered bsa BB.  I see shimano recommends "truing the BB" . I could see why this could be an issue. How many of you building Chiner's have needed to do this? This would be a LBS job for me with the cost of the tool and a one time use isn't really worth it.

2. Would you recommend a spacer between the top of the head set and stem or on top of the stem  or maybe both till I decide on the final stem length, bar combo? It seems like once you cut it there is no turning back, and i noticed while shopping for stems that most stems only had a few of the sizes available  in stock any where you shopped. So if you wanted stem x it came in 100 + lengths and if you wanted say 50-70 mm you might could find one in brand z.
L.T.

[brmeyer135]

Don't know anything about question 1 - leave that for somebody else...though I have never heard of anybody doing that....that sounds like old stuff.

Question 2:  don't remember your fork, but if it is carbon....most recommend a limit of 40mm and depending on your spacer size you may want to go above and below.
Othwise, do it either way and see how it fits ya....I personally like it 'slammed' but most bikes have 10-20mm below....above doesn't look right.

[foamman1]

The fork i have is a reba rl so its alloy. Already this frame has  about 2" higher head tube height over the mongoose i ride now. I also ordered low rise bars and 6 deg x 70 mm stem. It wasn't my intention to raise it up too much, but i always felt like i was bent over too much on my current bike. As i mentioned early on in this thread I have several back/ spine issues. I know its not cool to have a tall stem and riser bars, but i would like to be able to ride more than an hour without the feeling of an ice pick between my shoulder blades. Ouch!
L.T.   

[blueducati]

As far as the BB goes, I agree with brmeyer, that sounds like something you'd have to do on an old steel frame, same goes for the head tube. I've built 4 bikes now (3 carbon road bikes and this IP-256), and none needed anything done to "true" the BB shell.

As for your fork, I recently went through the same issue. I left room for 1 small 5mm spacer on top in case I needed to raise it. I have flat bars and my stem is at -6 now. Worse case, you can always flip your stem and get riser bars if you cut it short and need something taller.

[blueducati]

Also, just a reminder, might want to give yourself some extra length on all cables in case you do want to move things around.

[foamman1]

I will keep that in mind when doing the shift cables and rear brake. I think i remember full 180 slack on the cables and lines. Does this sound right?

An update I received items from Ribble. Ordered on the 12-1 and shipped on the 3rd(high volume cyber monday i was told)delivery would have been yesterday(nobody home) so i picked up at the post office this morning. If any one is on the fence about ribble I would say buy with confidence. Shipping was pretty fast and all items were new and in sealed plastic bags(OEM). Packing was ugly but very effective(cardboard wrapped and packing tape), box was in good shape. Prices cant be beat except by Merlin's on some items. No customs fees.

Merlin's package is still stuck in customs at Chicago airport. so hopefully will be here soon.They shipped the same day as Ribble.

The frame hum. I paid on 11-20 I got a email a few minutes later confirming they received payment and would ship out the next day. On 11 24 I emailed stating that i did not receive a shipping conformation or tracking number. I didn't get a response. On 12-3 i sent the email again and got a prompt response about sorry for the delay items were sipped on the 1st yada yada. So the latest update is frame has cleared China customs and is at the airline for transport. That was 2 days ago. So Hopefully it will be here by the weekend or next week at the latest.

Does anyone know of a good web page or a complete guide to assembly of a bike. I am looking for things like where to lube, where to lock-tite and where tho use carbon paste. There is a tremendous amount of conflicting information about these items on mtb forums. I am pretty handy with tools as do most of the service work on everything i own mowers, four wheeler, cars, boat and airplane(yep airplane, you just thought MTbiking was expensive)
Thanks
L.T.

[carbonazza]

Just for you to know, it is possible to build and ride with immense pleasure a bike without loctite and without carbon grease.

Some marine or waterproof grease on all moving parts, but the spindle.
And some regular lube on the chain.

[brmeyer135]

This page from Park may be helpful:  http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help

[jwilds1]

Merlin's package is still stuck in customs at Chicago airport. so hopefully will be here soon.They shipped the same day as Ribble.

Don't be surprised if you get stuck with duties once it gets to the post office.  My understanding is that Customs takes a percentage of packages and checks them out.  I got hit with $25 of duty on my frame, after it got stuck in customs for a week.  My ribble delivery did not get stuck, nor did my wheel shipment from XMIPlay, and neither had duties added...

[foamman1]

I was worried about the duty on the imported items too. The Ribble package was 280 or so dollars, zoomed right through and no fees. the Melrin's one is still saying processed through ISC (customs), but the value on it is less than 200 which is the threshold for duties as i understand. and the frame was released to the airline in china three days ago and if i had to guess is state side and in customs now. Its stated value is 150 dollars as per the vendor. So we will see. I'll let everyone know how the fees work out.
L.T.

[foamman1]

Frame made it to Customs this morning.Yea! Not toooo bad only 33 days from payment to get to the us. Now i hope it doesn't get stuck in customs.

[foamman1]

Well The frame arrived Monday. The box was in good condition and the frame was undamaged. I began assembly Tuesday morning, working when i had time. It went together easy. I think the hardest part was fitting the fork. I did have to bleed the brakes as i spilled a few drops while running the rear line through the frame. I did not have a bleed kit on hand and had to drive 60 miles to get one as the two shops in town didn't have one. Made the maiden voyage this morning. Trails were wet so i only rode about an hour, but all seems to work well.