Epic Evo Clone

[akuutti247]

I lowered the shock IFP on my Monarch and the suspension started to work much better, it used more shaft travel and had more active midstroke. The shock may be more prone to cavitation now, but I am not going back.

There are older discussions on mtbr forums about IFP.

A low compression tune could also help.

[darkening]

Interesting. But, anyway,  I've switched to a new frame while waiting for a replacement. I'm not going into any more experements with this Epic. Because I switched to HongFu FM138, that has much better linkage design for XC. (progressive-regressive leverage ratio and real 120mm of travel)

[Eddy_Twerckx]

Does anybody know or have tried using the Epic 8 linkage with the flip chip? Part S236300002, carbon shock extension.

[tisun]

Does anybody know the maximum length of seatpost insert for frame size M?   I want to order a dropper post for this frame and would like to know the measurements.

Thanks

[uberamd]

I’ve been toying with the idea of buying the linkage, yoke, and bearing kit of the Epic Evo to make this the 110 travel bike it was intended to be.

Did you ever explore this further? I'm also intrigued but not super keen on buying all the individual parts to discover they don't fit at all.

[Kactusdog]

Did you ever explore this further? I'm also intrigued but not super keen on buying all the individual parts to discover they don't fit at all.

The molds are one-to-one copies, I’m confident they would fit, but my money is going to other projects at this moment.

Another factor is remembering that AWST is testing their produced frame with their adapted link and yoke, Not for the 110 travel. There’s a chance the increased travel will stress the rear triangle more than they are manufacturing for, In which case theirs is probably only about 90, Which clearly their frame handles well. maybe one day I will get around to this. It’s about 250 for this conversion

[tim]

hi all

anyone know if there is replacement rear shock eyelet bolts?  was just finishing putting together a bike and i was torquing it and *snap*. the bottom came off and left the screw in the top part.  Not sure i trust the quality of some of airwolfs part (their udh hanger was crap too) so wondering if there is something better i can use, and if so where. I honestly don't even know even know the name of the part. shock rear eyelet linkage bolt?  its 8x20 i believe.

[ken11]

I picked up one of these frames and can't wait to build it up. I bought a 200x57 Rockshox Monarch and it should give about 110mm rear travel like the actual Evo. Anybody else run that shock size?
Also, does anyone know where to find the rubber boot that goes between the BB and chainstay? Is there an alternative to the Specialized one? As another user previously mentioned, the cable clearance at that junction looks to be too tight. Is widening the cable routing holes is the only option? Thanks

[akuutti247]

I think that the longer shock size is too long and raises the bottom bracket sky high. The old school imperial size 190 x 50 (51) fits in and gives a little longer travel. I have measured the frame clearance. Cable routing between the main frame and rear triangle is tricky. I had to disassemble the frame to route the cables. Less mud goes in if you put some kind of protector above the space between frame halves. I posted a picture of it earlier. If I lost the plugs I would cut an old inner tube and use it, maybe..

[akuutti247]

Cable routing between frame halves: a modified internal cable routing noise protection hose made of rubber could also prevent mud from getting in.

[ftajiri]

i used 200x51 shock ... it is working well because use more sag to balance the bb is more height on static bike, but in the ride the bb height is near the original

[Kactusdog]

i used 200x51 shock ... it is working well because use more sag to balance the bb is more height on static bike, but in the ride the bb height is near the original

Can you share a picture?

[uberamd]

Cable routing between frame halves: a modified internal cable routing noise protection hose made of rubber could also prevent mud from getting in.

I threw together a little mud guard for the 3d printer made from TPU-95A. Add a little double-sided sticky 3m tape to secure it to the frame and it works wonders for keeping dirt/sand/mud out of the front triangle. Prior to having this in place I used to have to remove my cranks and BB every so often to dump out all the sand, dirt, and rocks that acumulated within the BB area of the frame.

[uberamd]

I picked up one of these frames and can't wait to build it up. I bought a 200x57 Rockshox Monarch and it should give about 110mm rear travel like the actual Evo. Anybody else run that shock size?
Also, does anyone know where to find the rubber boot that goes between the BB and chainstay? Is there an alternative to the Specialized one? As another user previously mentioned, the cable clearance at that junction looks to be too tight. Is widening the cable routing holes is the only option? Thanks

Widening the holes was the only solution I came up with. Yeah you can remove the lower pivot bolt to pull the rear triangle away, route the cable/brake housing through, then use your muscle to pinch it all back together and get the pivot bolt in there, but that just means you're kinking your brake hose and shifter housing. And eventually it will wear into the frame anyway.

The only fix I found that wouldn't risk damaging the frame as the suspension cycled was to, annoyingly, widen those channels in the front triangle. Not by a ton, and only where the cables sit, but it made the suspension both work as it is designed without binding and made the frame usable.

As for the rubber boot, 3d printing a custom one is probably your only option (I made a custom mud guard instead, similar concept). You can see why the specialized one wont work by looking at the manual for the MY21 epic evo, the holes are simply not in the right place in the rear triangle, they're spaced way too far apart:

[Kactusdog]

yes

Very carefully. Just make sure that u use a lot of epoxy glue while installing. You can easily wipe off excessive glue later.

And you should also degrease and clean the glued parts(frame and a caps).

Alright, I think it’s happening to me. When i hold my front brake and stand on the pedals I am getting some pretty loud creaking. Got any advice for now? Safe to keep riding? I get a squeak whenever I pedal with power.