Hey guys, bought the tantan x34 which looks like a trek madone, different seat post and handlebar setup.
Some of you guys may consider this an endurance geometry, but im 6'7 and I need 600+ stack and 600+ reach, this is about as aero as I can comfortably go.
So here's the review. There's 4 things I'd like to talk about, three are important, one is a nuisance.
1. The seat post is so wide/thick, it won't fit into my clamp-style maintenance stand. I have a stand like the PRS 3.3-1, same exact clamping mechanism. The top tube and seat tube are likely not going to fit either, but I never would try those two personally because its not meant to be used like that.
2. Because the seat post didn't fit I laid the frame on top of the clamping mechanism with towels but during installation they shifted, causing the aluminum to meet the carbon and rub, which hurt the paint job/chipped it, and so forth. Now on a more expensive name-brand frame the paint job is likely going to be better and not have this happen, but this paint job looks solid, but it's not that durable. I hit it lightly with an Allen wrench by mistake moving the wrench from a chair to the handlebar area to tighten it and I chipped the top tubes paint.
3. The front derailleur is slightly misaligned, at least on mine and in my experience. I don't know if mines just a defect. Its probably not an issue if you run mechanical because boomaye on here ran ultegra on the dengfu r12, which I had/have (broken). I, on the other hand, with force etap axs have to use an angled spacer.
https://osymetricusa.3dcartstores.com/ANGLED-WEDGE-SPACER_p_47.html4. The seat post has been slipping, ive been 5+ miles from home where it's slipped down to the bottom and I look like an idiot riding it. The way I remedied this is by putting scotch tape (masking/tan tape) in-between the wedge and the seat post, the sticky part is against the wedge. This can be because the wedge isn't rough, its smooth so there isn't a lot of friction to help it, or the seapost/frame isn't properly made, but the little hack I talked about has been working for the last 100-150 miles without flaw. The seat post also comes with that sandpaper-type thing glued/built into it, but doesn't change the fact it slips. been torqued to spec (6 nm, assuming 6 is the proper tightness, don't feel like trying higher) and with carbon paste.
The handlebar/cockpit setup is just like the dengfu r12, in fact I think the handlebar is from the same exact supplier, nothing proprietary about it. If I needed I could use a spacer from my r12 on here, but I don't need to.
Overall though, bikes held up, it's extremely twitchy, disc brakes line up fine, nothing else to really talk about. Any questions feel free to comment.