Hygge Aero Carbon Frame

[Lotnik]

That's right. They're back with regular prices already. In the meantime my frame came today. I'm posting some pictures from the factory as I didn't make any by my own yet.
https://pasteboard.co/6ETww8umisyI.jpg
https://pasteboard.co/CpPn8rxKxqmU.jpg

[Benbenben]

This is a custom pain job right? Did you have to pay extra?


Additional feedback on ride quality from the fully built bikes? I am interested in someone with also experience with higher priced Chinese frames (like Yishun or lightcarbon).

Also curious to see if they will have any sale for 11.11

[TidyDinosaur]

Additional feedback on ride quality from the fully built bikes? I am interested in someone with also experience with higher priced Chinese frames (like Yishun or lightcarbon).

Also curious to see if they will have any sale for 11.11

I did another 105km ride on Sunday. I put my shifters a little more upright instead of the heavily inward tilted setup I had. It looks like this had improved the stability quite a bit. So I guess the 38cm handlebar paired with the 80mm stem and tilted shifters is not such a great combo with this frame...

I have had a problem with play on the rear derailleur hanger (with creaking as a result) but I think I managed to solve it. The outer part of the hanger has a threaded cylindrical part where the axle screws into. This cylinder fits trough the hole in the frame. I think this cylinder protrudes too far on the inside of the frame and it prevents the axle of the wheel to compress the derailleur hanger. It's hard to explain, but it looks like the axle of the wheel has to press the inner part of the derailleur hanger against the frame (so it is sandwiched between hub axle and frame) and in the original setup the axle of the wheel pressed against the cylindrical part of the outer part of the derailleur hanger so it did not press against the derailleur hanger.
I took the derailleur hanger apart and used some sanding paper to sand down the cylindrical part and now everything seems snug.

Chances are there will not be much of a sale on 11/11 but you could find a nice coupon for 40 USD or so... So if you are not in a hurry it might be interesting to wait...

[KalviDj]

Probably there will be at least 100$ coupons for these range of prices on the 11.11 sales.
Today, after 40 days, finally arrived my frameset (ordered without handlebar). No logo carbon black size L frame weighs 1023g. Great weight. Wheelset is also from AliExpress: Elitewheels Edge 45mm depth.
I'll build the bicycle in the next weeks, I still have to buy crankset, cassette, chain, handlebar tape and tyres. With SRAM Force AXS groupset (Red crankset and cassette) I hope to be in the sub 7.5kg category.

[Lotnik]

This is a custom pain job right? Did you have to pay extra?


Additional feedback on ride quality from the fully built bikes? I am interested in someone with also experience with higher priced Chinese frames (like Yishun or lightcarbon).

Also curious to see if they will have any sale for 11.11

Yes, this is custom paint job. I paid extra, but not much, like 30 dollars. I just received it yesterday and I will be completing all the gear through the winter time. To be ready for spring time. Frame weights 1038 grams in size large. Fork is 368 grams.

[TidyDinosaur]

Well, it seems I have now done 850km with the frame so maybe a little more feedback...
I am fairly happy with the frame now.

• Stability of the steering is a lot better with the grips less inward angled.
• Play in the rear derailleur stays away after the modification of the hanger parts
• There is some creaking that keeps popping up, especially after hitting a hole in the road or doing a little bunny hop. I suspect it is the left BB cup as there is always some anti-seize compound where the cup threads into the frame that even re-appears after a while even after washing it off. I reckon this can only mean there is some movement there. I am going to remove the cup, clean it and put some mild thread locker on the threads. 
• Seatpost seems to stay put for the time being with he 6 Nm torque, thread locker on the bolt and a lot of carbon paste.

[Dmgreen13]

Well, it seems I have now done 850km with the frame so maybe a little more feedback...
I am fairly happy with the frame now.

• Stability of the steering is a lot better with the grips less inward angled.
• Play in the rear derailleur stays away after the modification of the hanger parts
• There is some creaking that keeps popping up, especially after hitting a hole in the road or doing a little bunny hop. I suspect it is the left BB cup as there is always some anti-seize compound where the cup threads into the frame that even re-appears after a while even after washing it off. I reckon this can only mean there is some movement there. I am going to remove the cup, clean it and put some mild thread locker on the threads. 
• Seatpost seems to stay put for the time being with he 6 Nm torque, thread locker on the bolt and a lot of carbon paste.

Great to hear your updates. I've almost finished my build (have been progressing slowly as have been in sling following shoulder surgery). Hopefully I'll get a test run over the next few weeks but won't really start riding it until December I'd say.

[TidyDinosaur]

Great to hear your updates. I've almost finished my build (have been progressing slowly as have been in sling following shoulder surgery). Hopefully I'll get a test run over the next few weeks but won't really start riding it until December I'd say.

I wish you a speedy recovery, but that seems to have been quite a serious surgery you got...

Yesterday I removed, cleaned and re-installed the left BB cup. It threaded in very easy, so I guess the threads in the frame are maybe a bit too loose. I have added the thread locker (very mild, the same I used to use on my spoke nipples when building wheels) so we'll see how it goes when I take the next ride...

[Benbenben]

@lotnik any additional pictures of the frame you have received?

[BeR]

Here is a complete review of the bike: Size M (I am 178 cm tall)
- Handlebar 380x90
- Shimano Di2 groupset
-Wheels : Hygge Shun 40mm
- Saddle: Hygge too

The assembly went perfectly. I didn't encounter any problems.

First ride : I did a 105 km ride. My previous bike was an ICAN A22 and I definitely prefer the Hygge. The geometry of the bike suits me perfectly and I find it much more comfortable and stiff at the same time. Furthermore, the color of the frame is magnificent. The bike controls very well on descents and responds very well on climbs and restarts and is very fast.

I had no problem with the saddle slipping (I had used carbon paste) with a tightening of 5.5 N.m. My saddle is also Hygge and I find it perfect for me too.

In summary, I absolutely do not regret having sold my ICAN A22 for Hygge. I find it better in every way and the contact with the manufacturer is exceptional. They answered all my questions. In short, I highly recommend it.

I will post pictures in another post.

[fabxyz]

Just received my frames this week and wanted to share my thoughts with you all. Got pretty much what I expected for the price, considering they came from China. No major design flaws that can't be addressed. Let's dive into the details!

Positive:
- The paintwork is really beautiful
- The frames are super light (1063g in size 55/L)

Negative:
- The seatpost clamp is a pain. The hole of the middle wedge is too small and the screw prevents the wedge from moving sufficiently towards the seatpost. No matter how much torque you tighten it with, the force only works against the edge of the hole and not against the seatpost. (I'll do a separate post about that)
- The handlebar is just one of the cheap generic ones from aliexpress. It feels extremely flexy, I'm not sure I trust this one.
You can often find it branded as Kocevlo, but there are many other brandings too:
https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/1005006028345937.html
Strangely, their website shows a completely different cockpit and headset assembly:
https://hygge-bikes.com/products/high-performance-integrated-road-handlebar
- The headset sucks and both of my frames were missing the top plastic cone. The headset has a slight amount of play. This is by design as there is no such thing as a compression ring/cone that could hold the upper bearing inner ring and steerer tube tightly together (different post).
- The frame and fork are very supple. I think they went to the limit, is this really still safe to ride? (I did a lateral stiffness test on the fork, it bends a lot -> different post).
- Seat tube angle: 73 degrees is too small (too much backset) in size L. Combined with the huge setback of the post and a big saddle pull (13cm mark, close to the maximum), it's really a pain. I am in the most forward position and still 5mm behind my optimal position (I really hope that one day a 0 setback post for the generic FM236 frame will be released).
- The front thru axle threads are only glued, other suppliers now show the fork with a replaceable insert
https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/1005005982170845.html
https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/New-Product-FM236-Red-glossy-Hidden_1600862434667.html

Neutral:
- Headtube angle is quite slack and I was afraid of the bike being really sluggish, but in the end I found it sufficiently agile.
- The chainstays are not wider than on other (disc-)bikes I've ridden. So no problem with heel clearance for me, although my heels are close due to my slight V-shape foot position.

The build was quite easy, luckily on 12s Di2 I don't have any wires going to the STIs.
7.7kg (55/L) including pedals, bottle cages, Garmin mount, powermeter (heavy 105 11/34 cassette, not the lightest tires, ..) that's really good for an aero bike!!

[BeR]

Pictures.

[fabxyz]

Seatpost clamp:

I installed it with a lot of carbon paste at 6Nm. The seatpost slowly dropped by 5mm during a 1h ride. On the front of the seatpost you can see the traces that the rails groomed in the carbon, when sliding. What a foolish idea to put the rails in pull direction.
Upon disassembling and inspecting the clamp, I discovered that the central part (the wedge that exerts pressure on the seatpost) became blocked prematurely. Surprisingly, the two outer parts still had approximately 1.5mm of clearance. The slot appears to be too small and hinders the wedge from moving further outward. You can clearly see that the screw began to work its way through the wedge's pointed side. Unfortunately, I didn't capture this in a photo.
My solution: I completely cut out the slot's brace. As a result, the wedge is no longer fixed in place when the seatpost is removed and could potentially fall into the frame. In return now the outer parts can be tightened to make contact, and the wedge is free to move outward, resulting in an approximate 0.5mm gain.
I'll continue testing this setup during my next rides to see how it performs.

[fabxyz]

Headset assembly:

I received the headset unit (pic headset_assembly_label.png) with cone A, but unfortunately, part B is missing. The problem is that cone A is not flexible. While the outer conical surface (blue) fits snugly into the inner bearing ring, the inner surface (green) lacks a positively interlocking connection with the steerer tube. An additional clamping ring is missing here, which could possibly press A and steerer tube together. Or cone A should be designed to be flexible to clamp itself onto the steerer tube due to its conical shape and the force from above.
I am not sure how cone B is designed, but if it is flexible, this might be the solution. A flexible cone is 'advertised' on hygge-bikes.com.
Another example of a flexible topcap:
https://ritcheylogic.com/bike/headsets/Switch-upper-headset
It's frustrating that such small details were messed up. Play in the headset (on a new bike) sucks! Luckily this should be easily fixable with another top-cap/cone. Top bearing and steerer are standard, but will the interfacing to the spacer dovetails (or if spacer are swapped too, to the stem) then fit?

[fabxyz]

Fork rigidity test:

For the sheer joy of testing and its simplicity, I decided to apply lateral force to the fork arms and measure the resulting deflection. While this test may not directly correlate with real-world scenarios it does provide a general insight into its rigidity. (A fork is primarily designed to withstand vertical forces, as well as forces opposing the direction of travel , in reality it is reinforced by the wheel's axle.)

I compared the deflection measurements to those of a 2021 KTM Revelator Alto fork:
KTM: 101.16 -> 98.20mm (3%)
HYGGE: 98.50mm -> 89.56mm (9%)

Indeed, the significant difference in deflection (3 times, that's a huge difference!!) measurements between the two forks raises valid concerns about the safety and overall performance of the fork.