Hygge Aero Carbon Frame

[laktattausch]

Is it worth to sell my "old" Frame (3000 kilometers) and buy a new one with EPS Mould Technology? 

[TidyDinosaur]

Is it worth to sell my "old" Frame (3000 kilometers) and buy a new one with EPS Mould Technology? 

I would guess not

[ByAliTR]

Is it worth to sell my "old" Frame (3000 kilometers) and buy a new one with EPS Mould Technology? 

model s old frame,

it is already a very hard, rigid frame. there is absolutely no need to order the same model again for eps moulding.

[jonathanf2]

Maybe if they added new features like wider tire sizes and possible perks such as UDH or a threaded T47 BB, even then it's not really a necessity unless something is holding you back from your current frame. Better off investing that money in either wheels or components that will help your performance.

[BAR]

My new Eps hygge carbon laser L size, ultegra di2, elitewheels ent 2.0

[Lotnik]

So I finally managed to put together my bike based on the Hyyge frame. It looks and rides very good. My setup is Elite wheels ENT2.0, tubeless with S-works tyres, mechanical 105. Ale together went 8.1 kg in size large.
I went 100 km in one shotn lastly. But there is one issue I have so far. Noises form the seatpost and I don't know how to deal with it? Put  more or less torque on the seat clamp?

[BeR]

So I finally managed to put together my bike based on the Hyyge frame. It looks and rides very good. My setup is Elite wheels ENT2.0, tubeless with S-works tyres, mechanical 105. Ale together went 8.1 kg in size large.
I went 100 km in one shotn lastly. But there is one issue I have so far. Noises form the seatpost and I don't know how to deal with it? Put  more or less torque on the seat clamp?

Have you put carbon paste ? No seatpost slipping ?

[TidyDinosaur]

So I finally managed to put together my bike based on the Hyyge frame. It looks and rides very good. My setup is Elite wheels ENT2.0, tubeless with S-works tyres, mechanical 105. Ale together went 8.1 kg in size large.
I went 100 km in one shotn lastly. But there is one issue I have so far. Noises form the seatpost and I don't know how to deal with it? Put  more or less torque on the seat clamp?

I also had a creak that I could not find the source of. Took a while until I figured it out.
You should check te following: on the rear dropout - drive side- the part where the axle screws in, is made up of 2 aluminium parts that are held together with that tiny silver screw. The outside part has a cylinder with thread in which the axle goes. On my bike this cylinder protruded too far on the inside, past the inside surface of the inside aluminium part(so past the inside of the DS dropout). The problem was that the wheel axle was not clamped hard enough between the two dropouts and this caused the wheel to move a very tiny bit every time I put force on the pedals. Just enough to cause an annoying creak every time I pushed the pedals.
The solution was to sand down the cylinder just enough so that it stayed on the inside of the inner part. When you tighten the thru axle, the axle of the wheel is now clamped between the 2 dropouts.
I hope what I'm writing here makes any sense. It's hard to explain...

[Fleckinger]

I also had a creak that I could not find the source of. Took a while until I figured it out.
You should check te following: on the rear dropout - drive side- the part where the axle screws in, is made up of 2 aluminium parts that are held together with that tiny silver screw. The outside part has a cylinder with thread in which the axle goes. On my bike this cylinder protruded too far on the inside, past the inside surface of the inside aluminium part(so past the inside of the DS dropout). The problem was that the wheel axle was not clamped hard enough between the two dropouts and this caused the wheel to move a very tiny bit every time I put force on the pedals. Just enough to cause an annoying creak every time I pushed the pedals.
The solution was to sand down the cylinder just enough so that it stayed on the inside of the inner part. When you tighten the thru axle, the axle of the wheel is now clamped between the 2 dropouts.
I hope what I'm writing here makes any sense. It's hard to explain...

Had the same issue, but solved it by apply a thick layer of grease and the clicks disappeared. But after your post, I think I'll to sand down that part.

[Lotnik]

Have you put carbon paste ? No seatpost slipping ?

I give it to put together to my lbs and there is a carbon paste. I saw it because I changed a bit high of the saddle and it only occurs when I'm not pedaling good enough from the saddle but moving a bit on it. I made 100km ride and there were no slipping.

I also had a creak that I could not find the source of. Took a while until I figured it out.
You should check te following: on the rear dropout - drive side- the part where the axle screws in, is made up of 2 aluminium parts that are held together with that tiny silver screw. The outside part has a cylinder with thread in which the axle goes. On my bike this cylinder protruded too far on the inside, past the inside surface of the inside aluminium part(so past the inside of the DS dropout). The problem was that the wheel axle was not clamped hard enough between the two dropouts and this caused the wheel to move a very tiny bit every time I put force on the pedals. Just enough to cause an annoying creak every time I pushed the pedals.
The solution was to sand down the cylinder just enough so that it stayed on the inside of the inner part. When you tighten the thru axle, the axle of the wheel is now clamped between the 2 dropouts.
I hope what I'm writing here makes any sense. It's hard to explain...

I will check that, but my first guess is saddle add I wrote on top.

[lkbfreak]

Hi everyone! I just ordered new EPS molding version frame in Pearl white and waiting to be shipped. Is anyone using 160 mm disc in the rear? Any problems with caliper clearance when installing?

[Fleckinger]

Hi everyone! I just ordered new EPS molding version frame in Pearl white and waiting to be shipped. Is anyone using 160 mm disc in the rear? Any problems with caliper clearance when installing?

I used the ZTTO hybrid caliper and SRAM Force hydraulic caliper with a 160mm disc without any problems. My frame is XS. However, I saw reviews that said the Juin Tech F1 and TRP HY/RD didn’t fit in the XS frame.

[lkbfreak]

I used the ZTTO hybrid caliper and SRAM Force hydraulic caliper with a 160mm disc without any problems. My frame is XS. However, I saw reviews that said the Juin Tech F1 and TRP HY/RD didn’t fit in the XS frame.

I have Juin F1's and hoping to fit them to M frame. I just don't want to go downsize to 140 mm disc. Hygge seller did confirmed that frame supports 160 rear but that also depends on the caliper build. Generally full hydros are smaller in size then cable actuated hydraulic calipers. And ZTTO hybrids and TRP's look much bigger and beefier than Juin F1's. Keeping my fingers crossed they'll fit my frame size!

[Lotnik]

That hybrid calipers won't be working properly anyway due to internal routing of the cable. It bends too much inside the handlebar.

[lkbfreak]

That hybrid calipers won't be working properly anyway due to internal routing of the cable. It bends too much inside the handlebar.

Now that's not true. I have the same brakes on my Trek Domane and I'm using Deda Alanera with internally routed cables and no difference in performance. If the bends of the housing should be extreme then yes, it may reduce the usability.